How We Assemble a Honda B18C Race Engine at MotoIQ 

Time travel

We don't recommend studs unless you need them. In this case the customer wanted them.

How in the world is it 'lazy'? It's pretty dumb not to do 1-4 and then 2-3.

alright

I need to clean out the carb and get it running.

@@motoiq AWESOME, Please bring it back to old Glory! More from engine build Content! Thanks😁😁😁

It's actually hard to see TDC exactly to the degree like we said in the video, the needle hardly moves over a range of about 5 degrees.

You are 100% correct

Yeah, I realized I did this after we were done. It is not a show stopper because the rings spin at about 10-20 rpm but it is still a good practice. Also explaining the ring compressor. Next time!

Yes, I should have said something about that.

And how would some particles of dust harm an engine 😂

Well you would not want to do it in a dust storm! It doesnt hurt of course.

We dialed in on the low rpm lobes and when using the top center method we showed it doesn't matter where the lash is.

Yes

I tap them too with a mallet handle but Howard does not agree with me on this, he closely visually inspects them.

You need to take this level of care anytime you build and engine, even if it is a stock rebuild.

@@motoiq I meant the intake, the cams, pistons and rods, the cryo treating and the wpc treating. Would more money mean more power or is this about all you can get out of an n/a build?

It's a medium state of tune engine, but built for durability. We could get at least another 50 hp out of it with more revs and exotic parts with shorter life.

You need to take this level of care anytime you build and engine, even if it is a stock rebuild.

No we adjust the pulleys as we showed in the video!

@@motoiq oh so you just leave those on there? so they are strong enough

Yes

@@motoiq thanks

On most cars

It depends what clearance you are chasing and how picky you are about it.

Not if you are a professional engine builder for paying customers or building engines correctly at home. A machinist might have precise measuring tools but it takes skill to measure properly and more skill to machine properly. We fix a lot of botched engines for people here and poor machining is the reason for many engine issues. There are only a handful of machine shops we work with here that are good enough and this is Southern California where there are many to choose from. Plastigage is often over 0.001" off, which can be 70% or more of your total clearance on a late-model aluminum block engine. Also in the case of the crank, since it is supported in several places, that affects the measurement of the journal you are checking with the plastigage.

@@Patrick94GSR I always use both plastigauge and precision bore gauge & micrometer but plastigauge serves a different purpose for me. If you crush a strip of it you can see if the mated up surfaces have taper to each other meaning that one side has less or more clearance than the other. I find it difficult to measure that with a bore gauge and with plastigauge you see it immediately. If theres no taper i proceed to precision measuring my clearances. Tools are not super expensive either. Get yourself some good condition used Mitutoyo Micrometers in different sizes, a quality dial indicator and a cheap bore gauge. All together youre looking at maybe 200-300 dollars which wont break your bank if youre just starting.Learn how to use your tools and prduce repeatable results then theres nothing that can stop you from DIY. Everyone has to start at the beginning noone is born pro:D

We measure in three places across the jornal and three places rdialy to measure out of round and taper. I think I said that in the video but if I didn't, I was supposed to.

@@motoiq are you familiar with/any opinion/experience with Jeffrey @ CNC Werx's machined CSS cylinder support system (closed deck conversion) I couldn't find anyone local (Washington state) that if they did quality machining & assembly were either booked out far too long or so busy not even taking any new business so after a bunch if research i sent my b18 short block to CNC werx for machining/CSS/assembly w/ arias 82mm 10:1 flat top pistons K1 rods micro polished crank & ACL bearings now same problem with local machine shop for the head still deciding where to send my head between headgames / bad guys / portflow/ 4 piston any experience w/ or opinions of those four as well in regards to head machine work (porting / valve jobs)

@@motoiq yep you did and I agree with doing it that way. but it's just not feasable for us home DIY guys building or rebuilding an engine. I would have to pay a machine shop to machine everything, and then I guess pay someone else to check the machine shop with their precision tools? And then, if I'm not standing there watching them do it, I would want to go behind them and "check the checker". And for that, I would have to use plastigage.

Snap on, I dunno exactly the model number

You don't really need one unless you make crazy power like 1000 plus but they do have them. I like the TPR one that ties in all of the mains.

@motoiq that's awesome, thanks. I'm looking into swapping on a 90 Honda civic wagon rt4wd. Still not sure if I will go h22 or b series plus I haven't researched much for what matches up with the drivetrain or if I'll need an adapter plate to still be 4wd.

I am partial to the B series over the H series.

@motoiq my favorite engine is the gm 5.7, but always appreciate your input. And hopefully I get your seal of approval on one of the few honda builds I'm doing. Getting close to assembly on a old honda accord.

Yes

@@motoiq I found it online, I already ordered 2

I think the X has got to be better.

It's waiting for the transmission