That is SO cool! I'm not an electrician, just a mere mortal, but I do a bit of wiring, and I've never seen these before. Thanks for sharing this information! - Paul, USA
I always use these on multistranded cable wires. Uninsulated bootlace ferrules are also good for a cleaner look and tighter spaces. There are also dual conductor options.
I've seen this video like a week ago it was a good find now i'm thinking this could be a good thing to use on speaker wires to use them on spring clip audio sockets i wish the plastic tube on this ferrules was a heat shrink tube this will make the connection even more solid, and i wonder if a regular pliers make a good result as the crimping tool
You could try heat shrink over the plastic part of the ferrule, I would use proper crimpers as they make an even crimp and won't crush the cable as pliers probably would.
I believe the purpose of the ferule is to encourage stranded wire to behave like solid wire when under a screw or clamping connector. A ferule on solid wire is additional resistance (and effort/expense) for no gain in any other area...? BUT.....I'm a mechanical designer....NOT an electrician. Let me know if I'm wrong because I like to learn.
It will add the same amount of resistance whether it is stranded or solid so no real concern there. But on 1mm solid it stops the wire getting crushed by being overtightened in screw connectors causing open circuit. It works for me 🙂
I've seen a lot of uninsulated ferrules used in removable 13A plugs pre-wired onto appliance or extension cables. As an approximation to this I have put the type shown in this video (with the plastic part) on backwards, crimped, and then cut the plastic part off to give a neat uninsulated ferrule..
Use a crimp tool with 8 or 6 jaws it makes a better looking cable and stronger. You never use a ferrule on a single strand wire, it's only used on multistrands.
I could argue that a screw terminal directly on the solid wire makes a stress point that a ferrule would alleviate? Ferrule’s may be overkill on solid wire but if it prevents a furnace from flaking out at 3 AM when it’s below zero, it’s worth a few pennies and a minute of my time. I think I’ll start doing it on solid wire now. Just started using ferrules on stranded wire and love them, especially on 6 AWG going into my Victron solar charge controllers.
I can’t find any workmanship standards that recommend using ferrules on solid conductors. I know IPC says they are only for stranded untinned wires but I’m not an electrician.
It would have been nice to see a close up of the ferrule after you have crimped it. I have been searching the web for a similar ferrule that does not have the plastic end bit. I think its called shark tooth crimp sleeve.
I did a short which has a closer look at the crimp. ru-vid.comN2TUddUx9Fs?si=EcMS2FACaFwnpwEj. Have a search for uninsulated ferrules they might be what you are looking for.👍
I'm pleased I watched this because I didn't know about the adjustment cam on the crimper. Now I will go and do some experiments with adjusting my crimper.
Big fan of boot lace ferrules, however given that the bootlace colours are not mean to represent L,N or E colours, I would not put them on a cable where they would hide the wire colour as you did on the first demonstration. I didn't think you were meant to use them on solid wire.
For small signal this is great. For US house wiring, you should not use these. Here, solid wires to not generally require terminals. For stranded wire, you can either use terminals designed for stranded, UL listed lugs the accept stranded, or UL listed crimp terminals. It would be a code and safety issue to do otherwise, as US UL listed devices are designed to work with bare wire or terminals.
I'm from the UK but yeah I totally agree, the use benefit of these is mostly cosmetic, can be good for stranded wire in terminals designed for solid wire, or the double ones can be good for getting 2 wires in a terminal neatly.
There's nothing better than the right crimp tool for the job. There's nothing worse than not having a crimp tool speaking of special tools: Recep & switch terminal screws Originally: made for flat blade screwdrivers Circa 1970s: made for either flat blade _or_ Phillips screwdrivers 21st Century: new tool created specifically for screws drivable by both flat blade and Phillips screwdrivers. (The tip is a combined Phillips #2 and flat blade) Me: 1) 🤯 2) 😌 3) eagerly awaiting arrival of the combined flat-blade + Phillips + security torx driver.
As a home DIYer I could not justify the cost of a tool and set for the odd bit of wiring I do. If wire is twisted and solder dipped it produces a solid end. How does that compare?
You'll usually get away with it, preferably with a screw terminal that pushes down a small plate on to the wire instead of the screw directly pushing (and spinning) on to the wire, but little solder flakes can actually come off. Crimped connections are better than soldered.
Those are the most controversial items I ever dealt with. Guys who were good at wiring stuff and making it look good like them. The guys who worked for the national labs nsa etc all hated them and swore they mess up signal quality. So one night we fired up a scope to check digital feed back from a resolver. And yes the signal was crap compared to bare. Still usable but not nearly as clean. Personally I stopped using them 25 years ago. And whatever you do. Don't buy the new China stuff.
what new stuff isn't Chinese? and I assume you are talking communication signals with the degradation and not pure power (low voltage) stuff. can you expand on the "crap signal" you mentioned?
@@50plusdad-uk Ferrules are designed for class5-6 wire ( fine strands ) not for class 1 ( single wire ) or 2 ( multipe single ) wire. It's not because it works fine .. it 's made for the purpuse .. also it depends on the terminal type .. for class5-6 wire it's really needed on a screwterminal ( screw pushing on the cable ) . I using it in a WAGO 221 it's not needed ..
