Dude he’s a Professor of Commercial Mechanical Cleaning apparatuses. This video opened my eyes on the concepts of how these machines function. I’m holding he can take apart and explain the concepts and overall functions for maintaining the engine itself this way in a future video. That would also be bad ass! Thanks Ben. These videos really do rock.
Very informative video. For clarity, the water is drawn in through the lower check valves when the pistons retract. That water is now in the chamber between the upper and lower check valves. When the pistons extends or on their compression stroke, the water in the chambers is then forced out through the upper check valves under pressure to the wand. This is my understanding of your very informative video. Thank you
Hey Giant, Yes I can actually do you one better. Soon I'll be doing a video on washed out pump heads, and as you mentioned packing and seal kit installs/rebuilds... so ya, coming in about a month or so...
@@benshrope5707 Im looking at new check valves for my 8 gpm pressure pro on pressure teks website and they have two options, option 1 the kit is 62 bucks for 6 check valves and rings, option 2 there 192 bucks for 6 checks valves and rings. Any idea that the difference would be? The dont explain on the website.
Why would I keep finding pumps that refuse to pass water? They don't allow water to come out of the outlet. I can get water out of every single orifice but the high pressure outlet hose hookup. Thank you
within the internals of the pump, the only object in the pathways from the low pressure intake, to the high pressure outlet of these types of pumps is the check valves, which force water to move in only one direction. pull these out and inspect to see if every single one of them is fused shut or something (which they won't be) I suspect you have a different problem and that is, somewhere along the intake plumbing you have a leak, and the pump is getting air into the intake line. When you have an air leak the pumps usually fail to prime and run really rough due to the cavitation. Check to see if the pump is sucking air, and if no leaks, prime all air out of lines then start the machine up...
@@PolyVshot brother I kid you not I opened every orifice and get flow from it except the outlet. I even made sure the valves worked, and they did. There is something to these pressure washer pumps other than the valves. I'm figuring this out today. I have three almost identical pumps to work with
One or two things can lead a chronic repeat of this issue: assuming the oring is sized properly, if the plug is not screwed all the way down, this causes the check valve to not be held in tightly and securely, and it will sort of rattle around inside a little or alot which will cause the oring to be loose and get flushed out through the system, or come apart in little pieces and get flushed out. If then the machine is not repaired soon and the oring replaced quickly, the check valve’s metal base will bang on the brass oring seat and start chipping away little pieces of metal where the oring normally sits and provides a cushion and seal. If the check valve has, as a result of moving around, has chipped away at the check valve seating surface it will blow O-rings out constantly because there is no longer a smooth machined valve seat surface. Junk the pump head or take to a machinist who can build up the damaged valve seat and then machine it back down to spec.
