You should never beat on bearings with a hammer. You need a bearing heater element to set the wear sleaves and bearing races on for about 10 minutes while putting loctite retaining compound on the shaft. With welding gloves on and the sleaves and races now tinted slightly yellowish in color, you take the sleaves and bearing races off the heating element and drop them right into place. No hammer or socket or punch tool neccessary. Also when you time the gears the lobes/rotors should be timed one at a time at a 45 degree angle with the feeler gauge in place when the gear is set with the correct torque spec as the manual suggests. This video is basically showing you how not te rebuild a blower lol.
Used to repair tepro roots pump. They got straight gears, so you don’t really have to time the vanes, but I’m glad this video exists so I can prepare for curved gears.
Hey Giant, Yes I can actually do you one better. Soon I'll be doing a video on washed out pump heads, and as you mentioned packing and seal kit installs/rebuilds... so ya, coming in about a month or so...
@@benshrope5707 Im looking at new check valves for my 8 gpm pressure pro on pressure teks website and they have two options, option 1 the kit is 62 bucks for 6 check valves and rings, option 2 there 192 bucks for 6 checks valves and rings. Any idea that the difference would be? The dont explain on the website.
Is there anywhere I could find a full list of the parts necessary to put one of these together? Just so I can get it done in one fell swoop as opposed to making 17 different trips to the hardware store. Thanks in advance!
You're lucky you have keyways, I'm building a 406j roots blower, and there's no timing alignmentarks etc, i made my own before dissassembly luckily on the shafts* Ibised a carpenders square to check alignment on the marks i made* The seals do go with the open end facing out, that deals with 2 issues-1 installation on the shaft is less likely to rip the seal* 2- the oil will stay in the case better woth the seals design.
Thanks for the explanatory video, I followed the entire procedure with the clearances and it releases air through the witnesses where the Teflon is, therefore it does not raise the appropriate pressure, could you help me with that?
Very informative video. For clarity, the water is drawn in through the lower check valves when the pistons retract. That water is now in the chamber between the upper and lower check valves. When the pistons extends or on their compression stroke, the water in the chambers is then forced out through the upper check valves under pressure to the wand. This is my understanding of your very informative video. Thank you
Why would I keep finding pumps that refuse to pass water? They don't allow water to come out of the outlet. I can get water out of every single orifice but the high pressure outlet hose hookup. Thank you
within the internals of the pump, the only object in the pathways from the low pressure intake, to the high pressure outlet of these types of pumps is the check valves, which force water to move in only one direction. pull these out and inspect to see if every single one of them is fused shut or something (which they won't be) I suspect you have a different problem and that is, somewhere along the intake plumbing you have a leak, and the pump is getting air into the intake line. When you have an air leak the pumps usually fail to prime and run really rough due to the cavitation. Check to see if the pump is sucking air, and if no leaks, prime all air out of lines then start the machine up...
@@PolyVshot brother I kid you not I opened every orifice and get flow from it except the outlet. I even made sure the valves worked, and they did. There is something to these pressure washer pumps other than the valves. I'm figuring this out today. I have three almost identical pumps to work with
La verdad que mal video para empezar es un blower de la compañía tuthill no roots y así cómo estás quitando los gears puedes dañar los gears y el key way
Are you thinking the aluminum tanks will hold up better or just be faster, cheaper, and lighter to replace than a steel one? Is there some chemical engineer/chemist/etc who’s got a quality process on durable coatings to protect the reclaim tank interior and exterior surfaces for better long term longevity? There’s gotta some blend of chemical compound to protect it from all the sodium and general smorgasbord of chemicals it will encounter during much hard usage.
Lighter, but also significantly weaker with respect to implosion resistance. Close to TWICE as expensive, but will retain wall thickness longer, as the aluminum will not corrode or rust in the same way or as fast as steel will. If the tank survives far into the future, it will eventually become stronger than a steel tank, as steel will basically rust out and disintegrate from the inside out on a long enough timeline. Aluminum looks better (when polished). Multiple pros and cons for each. I would have gone with steel, but this aluminum was all they had, some other guy bailed out. Otherwise, it would have been a 3 to 6 month wait, and I didn’t have that kind of time. But this is my first aluminum one, so I’m happy to see how it goes. But just tapping on it, I’m nervous about the potential for implosion or collapse. I just don’t know, and have no experience. But we’ll see! I don’t know what it’s rated to, but I’m setting a 15hg limit on it. Minimum 3” of valve opening during work. So if the guys have one 2” hose going, they must have a minimum of 1” on the other side to relieve negative pressure. And until I know the specs of this tank, and whether or not it’s warranties, if an employee even touches the key, before opening up at least 3” of valve, instant termination of enployment. This machine will do around 50- 100k per month in work. So if somebody destroys this tank being stupid or complacent, we’re out 30k in parts and labor and a minimum of 400k in lost work, not to mention all the people that would get laid off in the event of a tank failure. High stakes. No mistakes allowed. No tolerance for that kind of mistake. We simply can’t afford that kind of a f*** up.
as a carpet cleaner this is not overkill, we use the same blowers and similar pressure washing pumps, we dont use them at 3500 psi for carpets because it gets them way too wet, we use 500psi at 250 degrees usually. i enjoyed your videos rebuilding the blower because i have a 4006 blower in my carpet cleaning machine so its pretty similar.
You know I’ve never used any kind of a clutch on any hot water machine I’ve ever owned. Know nothing about them, but never heard any bad things about them. I should know but I just don’t
Would love to see the day in the life of “How to accidentally make $300k not knowing anything”:-) All joking aside I believe you! Just want to see you speeding around. I will be on the list to purchase when I grow out of my storage unit and update marketing. Duplicating your shop and all the things needed isn’t cheap:-)
Ya I was DEFINITELY being overly dramatic and dishonest using that word. Misleading. I will address that, because even as a sarcasm and a joke, that’s somebody’s hard earned money. When I said that was thinking of seasoned veterans making the transition being able to pull off. Maybe don’t know reclaim all that well but already expert professionals. The average person not in the industry with no experience? Absolutely not.
@@PolyVshot Hi Ben, thanks for the reply. If someone watched all your videos and had a helper they could easily aka as easy as owning a business can ever be make $300k. Because it’s more likely they’d accidentally add to that and make 500k+ the second year:-)
Reclamation work, is about 3x the cost of trad (traditional) washing. If a contractor is doing like $200k a year trad washing, with a client base already built and a few years experience and a good reputation. If the broke out into reclaim work, relying on their experience, I believe 300-500k the first year is a reasonable goal. Expenses would go waaay up too, as would working hours and various other reason for self torture, but sales would DEFINITELY go up if they started reclaiming driveways, doing strip malls and parking garages, and things where reclaim is more an imperative.
@@PolyVshot lol, self torture! Hopefully mitigated by working out and massages like you mention. I also added that angle, can’t remember of “90 or 45” to the gun and wrist feels way better!
@@richardpowers4200 ya I use 45 degree one. about 1/2 of my guys like it, maybe a bit less than half of them, the rest prefer normal wands and don't have any discomfort in their wrists. I never did either for years, but now, my wrists just can't handle normal wands. BUT it's totally fine with a 45 degree adapter... :-)
Hi Ben, sweet build! Nice work around for the VIN becoming an OEM. You’ve mentioned in past vids that most OEM’s don’t provide the right equipment anyway. “Dreams coming true”. I think the shocks are one of the best features. I bet the trailer and equipment will last longer with a little more cushion as you roll around.
Thanks Rich! I like building stuff for sure, but I think the OEM’s at large have made a big mistake not putting out a good reclamation system for commercial work. Know why they haven’t because they think the shit will be too expensive, but it’s a mistake…
Love your videos. They are very much inspirational for the direction i want my business to go. Question though. The 50 gal buffer tank seems a bit small for an 8 gpm machine. What is the thought process on that?
Ya for sure. Well the machine comes with a built in 3 gallon buffer tank which we rarely use. But with an adequate water source, even just a couple gallons of capacity is enough to allow the machine to function. However you’re right, in reality 3 sucks for most purposes, 50 is probably bare minimum. I personally prefer a small buffer tank for weight and space reductions. I prefer not to haul around any heavy volume of water we don’t absolutely need.
And also: my machines are all as minimalistic as possible. Don’t get me wrong, I love watching these videos of huge fancy softwash trailers with electric everything installed, every automatic remote control option installed. But I like to WATCH that stuff, in my world, it’s always BARE minimum of complexity and weight. Just more shit to fix. Spend all my free time fixing stuff, therefore all our stuff is lean, simple and as light as I can safely make it.
Thanks Bro! Probably too expensive for the vast majority of pressure washers, or single owner operators for the most part, but we’ll put something together for a lower cost point later.
Ya I know, I apologize I haven’t put any energy into the channel for months now. No time…. What’s happening with our two largest contracts is just insane. But the teams and the managers are really starting to get a grip on things. By the end of summer this year we’ll have everything on lockdown and operations smoothed out, but still a little ways to go yet. Hiring and training is extremely slow and difficult but we’re at a critical point where we have enough combined experience that taking in new guys is alot less painful now. In about 6-8 months I’ll be able to cut the managers loose but at the moment they still need a lot of support. Almost there. When we do finally get there, I’ll be able to move forward with the channel, get products going, how to series videos out. Get some help with video production. But I should be able to squeak this series out over the next couple months…
Ya dude, the last year has just been BONKERS. Just no time. My little biz 3x’d in less than two years with this big tech organization and a huge truck washing contractor. It’s just been a tornado of busy. 70-80 sometimes 90-100 hr weeks for months on end. But we’re starting to get it all under control now, this new system will take a huge load off, and the new managers are learning fast. Not too much longer, I’ll be able to do more of this kinda stuff, but a little ways yet to go. 👍
Create an LLC in Oregon and register it there, long as you have someone with an Oregon address on the title you can register it in Oregon, you get home made vehicle vin inspections done at the dmv
not a bad idea! However, we're all set up now to build trailers and issue VIN numbers! so we can do it ourselves now! :-) But that is super handy info to have, thank you!
Thanks Paul! Well I got good news for you then! I’m almost done building a bran new $100k pressure washing system with a 500 gallon lightweight aluminum vac tank powered by a steel Eagle Fury 2400 CVU (600 cfm vacuum blower) on a 6’ x 16’ custom all steel trailer I just finished building from scratch. The trailer even has a nitrogen gas shock suspension because why not? 🤓
On a bench in a shop, not in any working application, or moving any type of media. Until you run out of gas or the power shuts off. Our application is probably the worst and has the least run time between cleanings and rebuilds.
High vacuum grease on the seals and as far as the sand you killed that blower should always blow out brake clean body and plates brake clean again and feel with your hand or put wd40 on a rag and wipe all the places you can reach and the ones u can’t make something the particles will stick to that rag showing the cleanliness of the parts
Heat the inner race only and work fast tapping each position n,s,e,w of the inner race till bottomed out let cool to room temp then make sure it is seated again it could draw off the shoulder a 1/32
Business is VERY good. Our business tripled in the last 2 years, why I have. Been putting up vids lately. No time, too busy, BUT I am building a new huge $100k cleaning system from scratch including the trailer and all this footage is going up soon.
Awesome . Glad I found your videos I’ll be watching all of them . I just got off the phone with creator of sirrocco. Hour long talk sharing his knowledge . I have big chain gas station in my area I want to bid on and break into reclaim work . The storage and disposal of large amounts of water (big surface area to be cleaned ) is what’s intimidating me :
@@wesarey147 ya, if you stick with it, you’ll be years ahead of the industry. Most contractors give up after a short time. But the ability to reclaim at scale, is a tool. You won’t need it everyday, but keep developing it, because one day, a huge client will call, because there’s nobody else. That will be a very good day. That’s what happened to us…
Hi Ben! What degreaser do you recommend? Some pros say, “oil will always leave a shadow”. What’s your opinion of using Dawn? I was successful with the powder enzyme you have on the trucks, but that only works with a dry surface.
I hear good things about “gold assassin” but have never tried it myself. We usually just use Terra green or superclean for mechanical stuff. For food based oils we use smokehouse which is super hot. That stuff works good but right out of the bucket it’ll melt your skin SUPER CAUSTIC, be careful with that stuff if you try it…
I'm starting to get into small dumpster pad cleaning, can using a shop vacuum pick up grease water from restaurant dumpster pads, I just can't afford a actual water recovery system or one that separates the oil from the water for dumping in oil drums etc can I get by with a shop vac? Or should I just do non oil cleans for now?
Raul! Don’t turn the jobs down. Get a bid from a vacuum truck company, or a septic pumper or a vactor truck company to support you, mark it up for profit and turn it in to the client. Wont be very long before you can buy a vacuum of your own…
