My brother just bought a ocean 40 and he wants me to fix it, after looking at your tutorial video, I was amazed on how you explain everything, I love your videos and, well what else can I say, thank you
Can you please go over how to replace the bungs on the screws where the bung has come out? great series and thanks for making your channel a full time endeavor!
Usually the reason bungs will pop out is because the deck has been sanded and refinished so many times that the bungs have literally been sanded off. It's wise to check caulking gaps to ensure that theres actually sufficient space left for your caulking, because if not, the deck will fail anyway and it's all become a lost cause. As far as just replacing bungs, you need two tools: a bung cutter and a counter-sink bit. First determine what size the original hole is, and then make plan to drill the hole out one size larger. The main reason for oversizing is to remove old deteriorated wood and to give the bung a new surface to bond against. Remove the screw from the hole. Drill out with your countersink. Cut a new bung with your drill press and pop it out from the wood blank with a flathead screwdriver. for extra precaution, when reinstalling the screw, inject epoxy into the hole first. Drive the screw next and then inject epoxy around the rim of the hole. Next, pound the bung in. Once the epoxy sets, pair the bung off with a chisel. If you have any more curiosity, I have been doing alot of teak deck installation and you can find me on instagram @deyoung.designs
Great video. Very informative. One question... How thick should the teak be to even he consider refinishing it? There is about 8-10 cm of teak remaining on the decks of my boat. Many bungs have been lost to time and tides.
I think you mean millimeters which in that case there is plenty of meat left on your teak. If you have lots of teak bungs missing, then sometimes the best way to go is to remove all of them along with the screws (one at a time) and re-drill each screw hole one size larger, and slightly deeper. The new screws should be slightly shorter, so the net depth is the same and the screw is well below deck surface so the bung can easily cover it. This is a bit more time-consuming and tedious but I think the net result is superior.
Hi Andy- In this video I see that you do an initial sanding when all the caulk is removed, and then sand again once the new caulk is spread out. Is there a reason for the initial sanding? I'm just asking bc I'm cautious to preserve as much of the remaining teak material that I have, and don't want to sand twice unless needed. Thx!
I re-caulked a Camper & Nicholson 60' in South of France some years ago. I wish I'd seen this excellent demo' before I started though; it would have saved me a shed-load of masking tape...
Great information, as always. If you ever have a client that wants to remove the teak decks and go to non-skid, I would love to see how it is done. Thanks again for all the great videos.
This is the best tutorial on replacing caulk on a teak deck, that I have cseen so far. The advice regarding use of the razor knife, reefing hook and the multitool I found to be spot on. My only comments are to follow the TDS recomendation to first clean the deck using their teak cleaner and the use of blue painters tape prior to caulking. The TDS cleaning worked well and the painters tape was quick both to put on, and remove afterwards. It really was a snap, saving a lot of teak from being sanded away.
Just curious: is there a reason why you sand after removing old caulk, and again to remove new excess caulk? Does that have any benefit over just sanding it once after applying new caulk?
The cockpit in my yacht is all teak. And really far gone.... hitting it with my random orbit sander i can "level" out the warping in the timber but all the caulking can be pulled out easily by hand. My plan was to pour uv treated epoxy over it after a fine sand ( to create a hard seal ) thoughts? 😂🤔
Love your show and recommend you to everyone in the marina. Sorry this question is so late but just encountering this issue. We have a 1968 Cheoy Lee with high bulwarks. It appears that someone repaired the deck a few decades ago but could not get close enough to the bulwarks to increase the pinching seams so they left them. We replaced caulk (which was completely missing) last summer but it is already coming out. Will the Fien OMT blade allow us to increase the seam size so we can add caulk? Or do you have any other recommendations. Perhaps a router with a really HUGE jig/base? 🤔 Help? 😢
don't sand, it will hurt your decks, just scrub them with soda ash, this will bring back the nice brown color of the teak, rinse them , sprinkle soda ash, scrub, rinse again, let dry and then apply teak oil like semco
Don't trust everything you see. It took eleven weeks(8/7) on a 47 footer to rebed the screws, reroute all the the grooves and to do the chaulking. Where the chaulking and sanding was the easiest bit.
what type of decking compound would you use on a white pine deck? I have a '74 Concordia Schooner and am redoing the deck seams...I have heard the old hot tar method or a two part polysulfide ...or sikiflex and or boatlife...i dont want to have to do this again so whatever is the most durable and sealing
BoatworksToday I’m using the sis-440 to caulk my deck. What kind of bedding compounds/ marine sealant adhesive can I use in conjunction with that will bond to this product? Thanks, matt
hi, i have heard that sikaflex isnt the best anymore, the quality has changed.. it leaves you with black colour on the skin 1 month after putting it on.. can you tell about your experiences..? thanks -- stefan
How were you able. To get the fine-line tape to stick to the bottoms of the grooves? Every time we have tried it, it would curl off the bottom, even rising up through the caulk (Boat-Life polysulphide). Thanks,
How do you deal with teakdecks that were glued on to the fiberdeck below? I have an older Bavaria sailboat where the entire teakdeck seem to have been glued on to the original fiberdeck in large sections. My teakdeck consist of a thin teaklayer on top with plywood underneath - all in all - about 5 mm thick (not much, I know). Now the deck has started bending and does no longer bind to the fiberdeck. Do you have any experience by dealing with that kind of teakdeck -and how to repair it (getting the teakdeck to bind again?)
fantastic video. Covered process as well as options to handle different issues that may arise (i.e. fein tool). The second sanding to remove the caulk was 80grit but what about the first? Love this channel and have subscribed.
Thank you for a most interesting demonstration on how to replace teak decking bunges. I have many to do before the sailing season starts but have been reluctant to attempt doing without proper guidance. Hopefully, it is as esy as it looks!
Very tedious work here and dude knocked it out like a champion in 3 hours!!!! Thanks for the upload you’re going to save me loads of time, just don’t tell my wife🤣
Great video but only thing your forgetting to advise in this process witch is very important is to clean the seams with acetone before caulking. It is a must! It cleans the excess dust and oils in the teak. If you skip this step the caulk will fail.
I noticed you sanded the deck first and then applied the calk and resanded. Why not just calk then then sand the calk the old wood in one step? Seems like you would save more of the teak with only 1 sanding?
Thanks for the video! Quick question...so is it enough to sand and replace the seams, without treating the teak with all sorts of two-step chemicals? I'd like to keep my teak as natural as possible, and not have to apply things on a yearly basis, so you tutorial seems perfect. Just wanted to make sure before I get down to it, that it's okay to leave it as is after sanding?
Awesome vid Andy! now to try and tackle my 36ft swedish yacht. What tool would you use to make the grooves deeper? Some people have suggested a router but I'm not so sure..
Great video! I was wondering, can this caulking be used with polyurethane for a hardwood floor? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but i love the look of that and would like to incorporate it into my Livingroom floor. Thanks!
Great video (again). Is that caulk good for anything else, maybe around gelcoat? Must be good stuff to keep water out of teak. Thanks for the education and your love of teaching.
The old weathered patina that formed on the wood undoubtedly contains lots of dirt, moss and other contaminants that you dont want to risk getting in your fresh caulk job. better to sand the deck than to risk it.
Quick question. What do you do for teak decks with raised seams? I’m looking at buying a boat that has some. I assume they scrubbed with the grain and wore away some of the teak. I was wondering it I could just get away with some light sanding to get back to a smooth surface
Have you thought about pouring a penetrating epoxy into the seams/missing bungs before installing new caulk? To prevent water from making its way into the screw holes.
Great vid- How manny tubes did you use to do that deck? I'm planning on using white caulk- I have a 23ft stonehorse sailboat with a full teak cockpit. Thanks!
Thank you Kevin! I had audio recorded as I was doing the project but the quality was terrible (wasn't able to use the normal mic setup that I use here at the shop). Sooo, I had to do all voice over :-/ Hopefully it works !!
Do you prefer a Teak oil if not used for a deck? I use some at the front of my small skiff as a trolling motor platform but needs to be refinished. Your opinion on applying Teak oil for my application?
legend343 We deepened our grooves with a router. The guide was just a piece of plywood with 60-grit stuck to the underside, and pinned down with one's knee. After the router bit loses it's sharp edge (teak will do that for you quickly), you hardly even need a guide.
Thanks for a great video! If one of the planks has partly came loose from its adhesive, is it an idea to pour epoxi through a little hole to rebond it? Or how is it to be done? Thanks alot!
30 years old...that actually looked to be in amazing shape. Obviously the owners did take some care of that. I just pulled the teak off the swim platform of my boat...UGH, what a MESS. It will take me hours to clean that up...and that's no caulk...it's strictly cleaning, sanding, oiling... :( GREAT work as always!!!
They took very good care of her; indoor storage every Winter, regular maintenance and upkeep; decks were the last item on their list of To-Do's :-) On your platform, have you tried a teak cleaner before? Teak Decking makes a couple really good cleaner / brighteners that are eco-friendly.
I'm using a Cleaner/Brightener...but the people that had the boat before us varnished the tops...so that's in bad shape. Not a hard job to be sure, just time consuming. :(
Hi Rob! It's actually SIA paper :-) Haven't tried the 3M ceramic yet. I tend to stick with this stuff as I have a local supplier that I can get next day delivery (and it's good paper)..