HPL Engine Oil vs. OIL CONSUMPTION - Part 1 | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 23 

Entire oil burning playlist: ru-vid.com/group/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

I have been following along since the beginning. I recently did the Berrimans B12 on my 2trfe Toyota tacoma after seeing it had the best results for you. I did it a little different than you did. I left the oil Drain plug open, drained all the oil and used 4 cans over 24 hours doing what you did in your video. added new oil, It wasvery hard to get it to start after all that, but she eventually started and has used 0 oil in currently 3100 miles...I gained a lot of power that I didnt even realize I had lost and so far so good. So thank you for this, I am still following along and pulling for the little Corolla.

I've been told by a mechanic that I trust that diesel fuel will dissolve carbon, the idea being put a couple of onces in the cylinders with none of the pistons at the top or bottom of the stroke give it some time to soak the rings and run through into the crankcase, spin the engine without the plugs in, put the plugs in and run it for about 500 miles, change the oil and do it again before the next oil change

Oil consumption fix update!!: My 2011 rav4 was burning 1.25 qts in 800-1000 miles. I Recently did the expnsive BG dynamic engine restoration kit and I am 1300 miles in with zero oil consumption. Dave I hope you are able to fix the oil consumption before too much cylinder wall damage is done!

Dave, I love your oil consumption saga because of this: your scientific approach and analytical mind, your value oriented mindset, your willingness to try suggestions from the youtube community, and your calm nature. I don't mean to gush, but I've been using Berryman's B12 for years and have been buying mine from Meijer superstore. I also use all of your other products and am greatly benefitting from your experiments. I lost a 2006 RAV4 to oil consumption issues because I foolishly followed the longer oil change intervals that Toyota published in their owner's manuals. My observations and suggestions on solving the oil burning problem are this: you have a "top engine" issue but are largely treating the bottom end with the experiments: solvents, cleaners, and mad lubricants. If someone were to tear into your car's engine, the bottom end probably would look factory fresh. My suggestion (based only on reading forums, etc.) are to try this: alternate these chemical cleaning approaches for the piston rings from the top end (spark plug tube). Level the pistons, add 25ml of transmission fluid to the spark plug tube, turn the engine 5x, and let set 1 hour (cleaning). Add 100ml of B12 to each cylinder, turn the engine 5x and let set an hour (solvent). Repeat the pattern for 6 sets (12 hours), then immediately drain the oil and filter, fill with cheap oil and filter, drive easy for 30 minutes working up to highway speeds and then opening it up to 4K for 7 minutes. Change oil and filter to normal oil/filter and try your oil consumption logging again. Hopefully this concentrated cleaning (by alternating the cleaner/lubricant with a solvent wash) will clean out the piston ring spaces if they are still present and haven't closed by heat/fusion! I can't wait for what comes next!

Thank you so much for doing theae videos Dave!!! Love watching them. Best on RU-vid by far and hoping you are able to solve oiil burning for all....

These have been great videos to watch. You have done your best to get to the bottom of your engine oil consumption and tried almost everything out there to solve it, all whilst explaining everything as you go along with a scientific approach. I am also glad you referenced both The Car Care Nut (he is the go to guy for Toyotas) and Project Farm, who is meticulous when it comes to testing chemical products. All in all I hope you get this solved once and for all.

Thanks for all the effort you’ve been putting in this research. I did the Berrymans soak in my 2008 Scion xb. Now using 3/4 quart in 1,600 miles. Big improvement so far.

Dave: Can't wait for "part 2" ... don't take too long. I love following the Corolla testing. Black kitty is a cuttie. So happy you love the animals and take good care of them!

Going back... Since it did such a great job cleaning the piston head, it would be interesting to see a piston soak with the Yamaha ring free. Thx Dave.

love your videos so much. i have a 2015 kia soul i bought at 94k miles, now at 114k miles, burning oil like a mad man addicted to arson. i refuse to give it up as it's my first car. thank you for all your dedicated hard work. i don't have the time or money to take it to a mechanic, i truly do think you are changing the game. P.S. i loved the cat clips at the end :,3

Loved this entire video, start to finish!

Thank you for new update.I'm looking forward to the second part.

Hey: I started watching the videos on your journey to cure the oil consumption on your Toyota. I really appreciate your videos disclosing all the various treatments options you have tried. My son has a 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport with approximately 140K, and he is having oil consumption issues with the vehicle. I concluded the issue is one of three possibilities: PCV valve, piston rings, or valve guide seals. The car runs good, and he cannot afford to purchase another at this time. He also uses the car for work; so, we need to come up with a cost-effective solution to at least reduce the oil consumption. I will be watching your future videos to see what solution(s) you arrive at. Again, thanks for taking the time to post this video series.

Nice job, can’t wait for the next one. Also love the comments 😆. I thought for sure we’d get a demonstration of the unicycle in the background, maybe next time…

I've been following this saga for a year or so now and love the series. I had an 07 Camry with the consumption problem which MMO really helped. Now I have an 09 Corolla with the 2AZ_FE which has a worse problem than the Camry and the MMO isn't working as well yet. I hope you get to the bottom of it and thanks for taking us with you on the journey. I have to say how touched I am that you take such good care of your pets. We have had several hard cases over the years and those get into you hearts in a special way. Thanks for sharing and blessing to you.

Dave, You are spinning your wheels! You really have three options, I'll get to those later. The problem you identified and corrected was carbon fouled rings. After multiple products and scope views the pistons have never been dry. Some oil can be seen on every one. So this little motor has an internal oil leak in the form of bad valve seals, worn rings or oil injestion through the PVC. It could also be a combination of the three that make it worst. though miles seem low it has been a toyota weakness. the correction: 1, Per your scope evidence the head had severe carbon at the valves oil leaking past those seals. 2, A re ring of this car could cost more than it's worth but I never thought this was your problem because your cylinder pressure was very reasonable given the miles in the car. Try a product that changes the the cylinder walls by coating them, better sealing the rings. There are a few of these. 3, Unhook your PVC for 300 mile and see if there is any positive change. In the final analysis blow by or leak by would be my evidence driven repair choice (not cleaning). Best of luck.

The playlist, for anyone in the future; Oil consumption experiments: 1) Seafoam soak 2) Seafoam crankcase 3) Compression test 4) Marvel Mystery Oil 5) Motor Medic Motor Flush 6) Endoscope/cylinder wall inspection 7) PCV valve changed 8) Bar's One Seal 9) Valve stem seals changed 10) pt2 Valve stem seals 11) pt3 Valve stem seals (results) 12) power loss problem. Supertech Oil Treatment. Spark plug bench-soak comparison 13) power loss problem cat testing 14) leakdown/compression test 15) (worked) Berryman's B12 Chemtool soak 16) pt 2 Berryman's 17) Berryman's again, and Breakfree CLP 18) Does speed affect oil usage 19) ATS 505 CRO 20) (worked kinda) Yamaha Ring Free 21) BG EPR 22) HPL crankcase 23) pt2 HPL crankcase

Thx Dave for your effort, keep it on pls! Greetings from germany.

Thank you for these videos. Great information.

I appreciate the effort in this. Alot of Toyotas fall into this area...not worn out but carboned up

Thumbs up for the huge intense experimentation and follow through a job really well and thoroughly done.

Nothing more valuable than great neighbors. My vote is Yamaha Ring Free soak(s). Or the Berrymans that temporarily worked. Or maybe things will change with a different weight oil (when everything else is exhausted). But after the Mazda guy said DMSO didn't cure his oil-burning problem, I don't think I'm optimistic for finding a cure. Still love watching the process - thanks for the discipline.

So if you believe the bore is being worn (ovalled) by the lateral force of the piston on the down stroke, maybe put the berryman's in on only two pistons at a time at TDC or BDC, then check to see how long before it leaks past. I'm thinking it might give the chemical more time to work on the rings rather than running past. Worth a try? The other thought is if your sticking rings have been stuck for a long while, then the damage to the cylinder bore is done and no amount of miracle in a can is going to repair the bore. Love what you are doing, thanks.

i remembered last year when i first saw your b12 video, and i got excited again, and did the b12 treatment again, two bottle of b12 soaking pistons, rotated engine per your instruction, however, it was burning oil at faster rate initlally, from about 1,200 to 600 miles per qt, then i decided to shorten my engine oil (mobile 1 0w-40) change interval from 5,000 miles to 3,000 miles, and without further engine treatment, just simply sooner engine oil change. miraculously engine oil consumption has slowly improved about 2,4000 miles per qt over the past 6 to 9 months. my myth is b12 cleaned some sludge on the oil control ring, and shorter oil change interval prevented combustion fuel gases diluting the engine oil and prevent further carbon building on on the rings with sooner engine oil change. i believe any engine treatment may contain chemical cleaning agent that can thin out the engine oil, making it easier to escape the oil control ring, and burn off by combustion.

Love these videos.All so great bore scope..Thanks..

This is so much more entertaining than just rebuilding your bottom end.

Great videos, have seen all in this playlist. My son had an issue with oil burning in his 09 Accord due to VCM. Kept fouling spark plugs every two weeks at one point. Took the car into the dealer and they indicated would need to have the back bank re-ringed at around $4k cost. Car was not worth that expense, so ended up trying BG EPR as you did in your last experiment. BG EPR must have cleaned enough to free up his oil control rings as his car's oil consumption has dramatically reduced and no issues with fouling spark plugs in over a year now. Would throw this out there as food for thought...looked like you had 3 extra bottles of EPR in your last video...what about changing the oil several times consecutively(after, say, 10 minutes of idling) until you are happy with the oil coming out being similar to new oil. I would then run a bottle of BG EPR through and compare to your previous oil change to see if it indeed did remove additional sludge/carbon. Save a sample from each oil change to compare. Do this with all 3 bottles of BR EPR if needed....would be a bit costly with oil, but would be a more definitive test of whether the product was working at all, which I am going to guess that it is, but your situation might need a bit more aggressive cleaning before putting miles back on the car and adding more carbon to the rings...

I was recommending Restore in past videos but with the way that crosshatching looks. I agree with dave that it still looks good. I don't think engine restore will do a thing because there is nothing for it to do. Dave you are making me want to video all my little experiments on my car. I actually have been doing uber eats and renting my spare car on turo just to put mileage on them to see how many miles i can go before it start showing signs of sludge building up and if using certain high ester oils can clean up varnish in the valvetrain. Then i think about how much work video editing is and change my mind. Yay i think it was me he was mentioning about viscosity index improvers.

Wow, Pirate sure has some energy. We have a Bombay as well, her name is Boo, and she used to have that energy. She's getting older, and is a lot more mellow now. Our other cat, Skippy, is missing her right foot. She'll eat and eat and eat if we let her. She gets around pretty good, but nowhere near like pirate. Those cylinder walls actually look really good for the mileage it has. That year of Corolla had the worst oil burning problems. If we can figure it out, that would be awesome for others with this problem. I have a somewhat radical idea, that will use a lot of oil, but might help a lot. And I've never seen or heard of it being done before, and is somewhat risky. My Idea is this: Background concept - It has been known that using lacquer thinner in gasoline will clean out the catalytic converters via Scotty Kilmer's method of a full gallon to a half tank of gas, and drive it for about 150 miles and it will clean out the carbon buildup on the cats... Just like the Berryman's, Put straight paint lacquer thinner in the cylinders, basically fill up each cylinder and let it sit at least for 24 hours. Stirring with something safe, like a bent plastic rod or something, that will fit into the spark plug hole every once in a while just to agitate the liquid. As well as turn the crank over a few times after agitating it. If the solution hasn't drained from all of the cylinders, suck it out with some sort of tube. Then, put a little bit of oil in each cylinder, like a quarter of an ounce... just enough go around the outside of the rings to get some lubrication back in there. Then drain the oil/liquid out. fill it back up as normal. let the engine run for about 10 minutes, and do another oil change. And then do your normal driving. It's risky, but it might dissolve all the buildup. If you can fill it up, it should clean the valves too. I just don't know if anything rubber might contact it, because that's not good. Also, instead of straight lacquer thinner, you can cut it with pure gasoline, so it's not as strong. It also might be worth it to just do the gasoline part, to clean out your cats, because you're getting those codes as well. Here's a good channel that investigates these concepts... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2w980ssnID0.html

It's always amazing when you see your hometown (Seneca) popup on a random youtube video. Honk next time you drive by and enjoy the lake when you can. I'm watching your progress intently as I'm wrestling with weak compression on a fifty year old project car (only in one cylinder though). Tried Engine Restore (increased the compression in five of six cylinders by about 10psi but didn't help the weak one at all), a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil (no change) and planning on the Lucas oil treatment next to see if I get lucky. Good luck!

Will definitely be nice to see how the BG restoration kit works on the piston rings

感謝你的實驗 ，我來自台灣， 我有一台BMW e38的728發動機 。目前也是遇到了燒機油的狀況 。您的實驗將給我很大的幫助 ，只是遠在地球的另一邊， 這些化學品我們都不容易取得 。我還是會持續的關注你的影片。 希望有朝一日可以完美解決這個問題~~

Gotta give it to ya, old buddy, YOU ARE A PERSEVERANT OIL-BURNING TOYOTA OWNER!!!

Even on my new 2azfe it will use less then a 1/4 of a quart of oil in 1500 miles. Been changing the oil every 3000k. Keeping the carbon at minimal. Low tension rings wont keep the oil from pushing through but all we can do is keep trying!

love the videos , im new here , i have a similar oil consumption problem with my 1978 318 engine i changed valve stems ive done compression tests and used all these products and even went to 20w50 oil in it .....on first start up she runs clean but once hot and you give it a shot of gas its smokes like a chimney

have you tried the ceramic engine treatments yet? they are supposed to fill the micro scratches in the cylinder walls and the ceramic contained in the treatment will fill in the cylinder walls and help the engine perform better.

Dave! Your leaving us hanging! Lol

New viewer here! I binged all your videos. I'm casting another vote for the bg dynamic restoration kit.

If you want a scary method, my diesel mechanic once told us that on our duramax, if the rings start to get sticky, remove half the oil (5qt) and fill it up with diesel fuel and run it for 30 minutes and it unsticks the rings.

you need to use like a high detergent oil, like amsoil signature series, or like a pennzoil ultra platinum oil,

You should try compression restore at this point. Motor is squeaky clean, you just have big wear on the cylinder walls from piston rock at this point. Compression restore is basically just copper in a bottle though so don't use too much or you'll get extra wear lol. But in the correct amounts it works on worn out equipment.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks for taking us along on your journey to find the elusive ring freeing elixir! 😁 I have a 95 Cadillac Seville STS with the Northstar that likes about 1 qt per 1000 miles. Probably turn out to be some unobtainable liquid, like Bigfoot piss! 😁😱🤔 Oh yeah, lived in pine forests as a young man!🌲🌲🌲 Wonderful smell, like Christmas!🎄👍 Also really enjoy Night Blooming Jasmine! 🥰 Mike in San Diego. 🌞🎸🚀🖖

That old Toyota jeep next door 😍 so cool! Edit just realised how ridiculous that sounded haha. Might be a 40s series land cruiser?

Try an oil catch can and use it to measure the difference between the lost of oil in the crankcase and the amount in the catch can.

Viewer from Europe here, like your approach to this: Looking at this scientifically, it is impossible to dissolve actual elemental carbon. That saying, the gunk in the piston rings is more likely tars from gasoline/oil combustion. I would try some more aggressive solvents: (still safe for metal) 1. Toluene 2. Xylene 3. Benzene 4. D-Zolve™ 339 Carbon Remover (try google it) 5. Chlorinated brake cleaner 6. Carbon Tetrachloride 7. Dimethyl Sulfoxide Etc… Combine above with a warm engine and some kind of ultrasonic agitation. More risky: 1. Sodium Hydroxide 2. Acids 3. Weak Piranha solution. Works great for carbon, not sure bout the pistons? Oxidising agents: 1. Hydrogen peroxide 2. Potassium Chlorate 3. Concentrated oxygen + heat? 4. There are many… I don’t believe the commercial available products are up to the job to be honest. But I will follow the journey none the less. =)

Just as the hawk needs to eat the chipmunk 🐿️ The engine needs to eat the oil… at least for now. Stay the course and victory will be yours. 👍

Filling the cylinders with 50/50 mix aceton and ATF oil a couple of times and rock the pistons forward/reverse 1cm a couple of times a day is the best I've tried.

I am building a honda accord f22b1, restoring and upgrading it. Recieved the car and it used about a quart every 1000 miles or so. Changed the oil and used some semi truck 15w40 oil (petrobras top turbo pro), aproved for gasoline (SN), now it uses about a quart every 3.000miles, thats my oil change intervals anyways so its great. And yeah, I use 15w40 because I race the car, 5w30 just thins out too much when I race so 15w40 or 10w40 is ideal. 20-30 Celsuis ambient and no winters here in Colombia!

Very good Chris Fix take-off there, at about 18min 😆

My wifes 2007 Camry I have gotten it to the point that it uses no oil with daily driving which is about 20 miles to work and 20 miles home @55mph for 5000 mile oil change interval. On a recent 800 mile trip on I75S with an average speed of about 85mph it used about 1 quart of oil and that was towards the end of the 5000 miles oil change interval. It has been raining every day here so I have not changed it yet. I purchased 2 quarts of HPL EC so the 30W engine cleaner to try in it. Up to this point I have been adding about 8oz to 16oz of Schaeffer's 131 Fuel Stabilizer to the crankcase following old crankcase purge instructions. Prior to this high speed road trip it has not used any oil anymore on 5000 mile oil change interval with her normal driving. So just using Schaeffer's at a stiff treatment rate has over the last 2 years massively helped but has not cured the problem. I am not so stupid as to think I can fix a mechanical problem with chemicals but I am convinced it can be minimized and reduced with early intervention and aggressive intervention. I have not done piston soak on this car but I have done that on other cars with good outcomes! Have you tried M1 0W40 or 5W40 like Rotella-T?

My 2 cents - Berryman B-12 chemtool fuel injector cleaner in compression chamber: 1-drain all oil and with oil plug out put b12 in chamber & rotate compressed(up through the compression stroke or air pressururized w/ compression tester hose?) to be done with half combustion chamber size (25cc 2l engine) of b12, crank by hand with spark plug in place) collect the b12 that falls from the oil plug hole, do this to each cylinder a few times. 2-put all cylinders levelled midway and soak with b12 during night with spark plug in place. 3-next day rotate 5or6 times with 25cc b12 with spark plug in place every 5 hours. 4-Repeat step 1 at least once or every step all over again. 5-Put old oil back again run engine for 15min and then change oil and filter. Thoughts?

Cool to see the Car Care Nut appear

Hey Dave, if you take off the pcv hose when running and warmed up it should have smoke come out if the rings are stuck. Another form of verification.

@diy dave update on my 99 corolla after baryman piston treatment and change from 5w-30 to 0w-20 oil. I went from 800-950 miles before hitting the bottom mark on the dipstick to now 1500. After i hit 3k and change the oil i will see if this continues but this is by far the best solution i have seen not only with my own eyes and experiences but also from your experiments as well. Thanks for making these videos.

I have a 2006 4runner with the 1gr-fe engine that had a water leak between 2 cylinders. It would miss a little for aboit 10 seconds after startup, then smooth out, but it was losing coolant. Ran the test on the radiator to see if there was exhaust gas in it and confirmed that it did. Bottom line is I removed the engine that Toyota says you can't rebuild. I machined the heads and the block and honed the cylinders. New rings, new bearings etc. Runs like a top now with no water loss. Don't believe people when they say these engines can't be overhauled to like new condition. Total cost on my overhaul was about $800 including new timing chains, but I have the tools and equipment and didn't send anything out for machining.

Hi Dave, engineer and engine guy here. The main reason the wear is highest at the Top Ring Reversal (TRR, practically Top Dead Center although not quite due to side clearance in the ring groove) actually has very little to do with oil spray. Rather, it has to do with the small wedge of oil film the ring is riding as it moves up and down, combined with the high peak cylinder pressure you get at the beginning of the power stroke. On the way up and down, the rings are riding on an oil film wedge, like a water skier gliding across the waves. But when it changes direction, it loses that wedge; the skier starts to sink until the rope tension builds and he's back up on top of the waves. The tribologists call this "hydrodynamic lubrication". When the piston's velocity drops to zero, so does the hydrodynamic lubrication. (This is the same reason journal bearings carry very little load if there's no crank or cam spinning within them) What's worse is that this film breakdown is occurring right as the piston rings are being blasted outward against the wall with more pressure just after ignition. This is why you'll often find the at the wear zone at the top of the cylinder is wider by quite a bit than the piston rings themselves-- the pressure is falling as the piston descends and this reduces wear rate because the rings aren't being forced into the wall as hard. FWIW, the reason for oil squirters in modern engines is primarily cooling, not lubrication. The wear surfaces don't really get any additional oil or lubrication from the squirters. But a surprisingly large fraction of engine cooling is by heat transfer to the oil, and oil is more effective at cooling things like pistons because it can directly access the parts that are hottest. Coolant has to wait for the heat to leave the piston, migrate through the cylinder wall, into the water jacket. By then, it might already have melted or otherwise killed the piston. Some engines have very sophisticated oil flow paths through a hollow crown, and the squirters aren't just spraying oil *at* the piston, they are injecting it directly *into* the piston crown at BDC and acting on one of the hottest parts of the engine. This makes for very effective cooling and is one of the reasons many engines can now run higher compression ratios without worrying about knocking-- the piston crowns run much cooler. The downside to the oil-injected/cooled piston is that the piston becomes dependent on this cooling. If a marginal oil is used or some incompatible elements are present (i.e. a copper surface somewhere in the engine is wetted by oil), then you can get deposits inside the piston crown that reduce cooling effectiveness until eventually it progresses to where the piston is running hotter than an uncooled piston. This high piston temp then leads to issues on the outside with stuck rings, varnish, etc when the root cause is actually deposits on the inside and underside of the piston that are holding in heat and causing it to run hot. This is one reason why low- NOACK oils in piston-squirter engines can be a really good idea. NOACK is less about consumption and more about the general effect of higher volatility, which definitely includes leaving deposits behind.

Dave great job with the experiments, you can use all the chemicals you desire but will continue to burn oil. I have found out on my Toyota 1991 MK III (Supra engine) the head gasket required torque was too low which caused a continue loss of oil or burning oil. The factory torque called for 58 ft lb. head torque but later change to 68-72 ft lb. due high rate of oil loss, the problem discontinued after re-torquing. I could be wrong, it could just be Supra issue, both are Toyota products. I hope you find a chemical product that will prevent high rate of oil loss.

What you're mentioning at roughly the 5 minute mark is the major and minor thrust in a cylinder. Yes, that's correct for cylinder wear though, most of the wear is through heat expansion and contraction, and major thrust sides (the piston slapping over to the opposite side of the cylinder by maybe a few ten thousands). Great videos!

Hello Sir. Just starting watching your videos. Very entertaining and very informative. I have a suggestion as to something you might try. Have you ever considered trying to install a catch can in line with the PCV system to see if that is where some of the oil is going? I know you replaced the PCV valve but many factory PCV systems do a terrible job of preventing oil loss even when working properly. I would be curious to see how much oil is making it through. Could be another variable to try and eliminate.

19:40 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍 AND also now that we see Cyl #2 spark plugs was loose.. "RELEASE THE KRACKEN!" ........

As an avid gardener, I too enjoy a good sniff. My favorite is probably gardenia flower or brugmansia, although citrus blossom, mock orange, and osmanthus are close favorites. Have you considered trying HHO? Like making a small hydrogen generator (pretty easy to make) and hooking up to the intake? It supposedly burns off most carbon deposits, and makes combustion slightly more efficient. Just shooting ideas for you to try. I still think driving at high rpms for an extended period of time with a good cleaning oil like amsoil or redline might help.

These Toyotas are tough. I have one of those endoscopes and I inspected my 95 Tercel because it burns about a quart every 600 miles. I have the same vertical scratches in all my cylinders, but cyl 2 has nothing but vertical scratches and 2 deep gouges on either side of the cylinder wall. I think someone let a bunch of metal shavings fall into the cylinder when they tried fixing a stripped spark plug. I got it pre-abused from auction and use it every day for work. Lots of power and better gas mileage than its advertised for.

Has anything really worked long term? I've watched several of the videos. It just seems that some have done a relatively good job of cleaning, otherwise the oil consumption issue really hasn't improved much. Is there something that I missed that worked well?

Love your videos and your approach this science project. I think you will eventually discover and spark many new ideas for all of us. Today I saw this video and though of you. The RU-vid video title is "Best Fix For A Stuck Engine - Viewers Choice. Marvel Mystery Oil, vs ATF, vs Acetone, vs Vinegar" by Uncle Tony's Garage. If you can figure out how to use vinegar, it might improve the oil consumption. As a side note would putting the spark plus back in after you add an additive, wouldn't that make it liquid hold in longer in the cylinder? Thanks again for the great content.

Didn't watch till the end but i made hardcore mode and i use engine parts cleaner with boiled water. Pistons equal level. 200ml in each cylinder. I used Autoglym heavy duty TFR in proportion 1:5 three times after sucking up with syringe and rubber pipe on it. You just have to remember to crank with no spark plugs or/and blow air to get rid of the all chemicals/water inside. Of course the most important, you have to lubricate cylinder wall with oil or kerosene before you crank it! Two oil filters and two times oil change 😉 BTW...You could sand headlights and paint them 2k to refresh your Corrola 😆 Some edit. Do not know if you have in US Forte brand additives? They have quite good opinions. They have many different chemistry for engine treatments.

piston rings are gunked up and stuck, no additive has resolved this issue so far, yank the pistons out, new rings and pray , worked for me, DIY you can do it really cheap.

If you have any specific questions about the HPL cleaner, feel free to ask. I'm friends with the company and know the formula for it like the back of my hand. I also just noticed I'm only a couple hours from you. The issue with oil flushes and cleaners is the results are largely anecdotal. I see people say Seafoam worked for them and MMO didn't, or vice versa, which isn't credible since they're the same formula minus some TCP. (which has no impact on consumption or cleaning) Berryman's B12 is 90% acetone with some toluene and alcohol for stability. Acetone is really good at eating rust. Unlike those, the HPL cleaner is a fully formulated oil with a typical 30 grade (or 40 grade) viscosity. It has an ester base oil which gives it high solvency and is designed to clean slowly over a few thousand miles by dissolving carbon deposits into suspension to be filtered out. This is opposed to quick "flushes" which can break up sludge in chunks that clog pickup screens, galleys, etc... It takes time to work. Seeing a slight increase in consumption at first isn't uncommon since as it cleans, it can be clearing up ring coking that was acting like a gasket for the rings, but will usually improve over a couple thousand miles. HPL's engine oils actually have more cleaning power than the cleaner product. The cleaner is designed to be transitional between a previous oil and the HPL engine oil. As mentioned, it is designed to be used with fresh engine oil. You want the oil to have fresh detergents and dispersants to pair with the detergents in the cleaner to effectively isolate and neutralize acidic growth from the carbon deposits as its cleaning. It allows the cleaner to work more effectively.

I think you should switch the oil grade. You're using 5W30, which could be too thin for your car. Adding to the fact it has big detergent proprieties. Try 15W30 or 15W40.

I love the smell of pine needles on the ground in the hot sun, reminds me of camp.

Have you ever tasted honey suckle? Pull the flower off, and you'll see a few "strings" hanging out, taste those! Looking back at the video I think we are talking about two different honeysuckle plants, the ones that grow here in Utah grow on the ground and are a white flower with a little bit of pink, I think it's our state flower.

Thankyou for all the videos ive been battling a smokey civic for over a year now it blew smoke reslly bad when i got it changed the oil it was better also used liqui moly injector cleaner.. ive been changing the oil very frequently using a mix of oil stabikizers stop smokes, MOS2 etc with not much result also tried a intake decarb last service and ive been using upper cylinder lube, octane booster and injector cleaner to help burn out that carbon .. ive got some valve stem seals on the way cause i noticed it was blowing plooms after downhills descents.. im g onna comp test it as it sits ive i havent been using fuel additives then i wanna do a oil flush and then replace stem seals amd see if it bumps up compression then follow up with a piston soak to help those rings all stop smoke addituves ive used sparingly with 10w 40 not to over do it.. sorry for the long comment i just wanted to share my experience and i appreciate the content

I wonder what the carcarenut would say about the crosshatch and scoring?

What does a compression test show you?

Had an 02 Camry would burn 5 qts in 80-100 miles. My fix was the engine blowing. Mmo, diesel, seafoam, berrymans, etc nothing soaks or otherwise. It had 340k had the 4banger whatever the engine designation was. What was nice however is barring having to add oil you could go 600+ miles on one tank. I'm curious to know if it's possible to chemically fix the issue as that would be awesome and save a lot of these otherwise reliable vehicles.

The oil at the top of some of the cylinders could be leaking past worn valve guides or possibly leakage at the head gasket. Even with new seals, worn valve guides can still allow oil to pass into the intake ports. On the next pass try running the camera past the throttle body down the manifold to the valves.

Keep up with the experiment. The world wants to know. BTW next time you change the oil filter use a solo cup or any soft cup big enough to cover the entire filter and some after you loosen the filter. Grab the filter with the cup then loosen the oil filter to take it out. you will see the oil drain into the cup so you will not have a mess on your hand.

I use marvel mystery oil in the gas to help with upper cylinder lubrication

I've been thinking if one were to hook up an oil pump to the spark plug hole and the intake to the drain plug. Then just pump the best solvent at some low pressure so that it is constantly going through the rings. Alternatively if you can rotate the oil pump of the engine without the engine running, one could do that too.

super interesting series. Back when I had my Mazdaspeed, some guys swore by AC Delco X66P. It was a blueish color and came in a see through bottle. Pretty sure it's discontinued now. BMW's cleaner looks suspiciously similar. We did the piston soak method with it. I'd like to see that tried. I can't remember... Did you try any "steam clean" methods with any product? Where you let a vac hose suck it in the intake tract while the engine is running? Seafoam can be used that way, makes an epic smoke show.

They sell these portable ultrasonic cleaners that consist of a long wire with the ultrasonic cleaners on the end. I'd be interested in seeing you try to use that next as I think just using these cleaning fluids alone is insufficient. I would recommend filling the spark plug well to the top with either parts cleaner, acetone, or di water, lowering the ultrasonicator to the bottom, and turning it on for 10 minutes. Then remove the liquid, replace with fresh liquid, and repeating several times. People have already shown great results with those tabletop ultrasonic tank cleaners but I can't think why this couldn't be done with the other type I mentioned within the chamber itself.

Have you tried doing transmission fluid yet? it is a detergent and have seen and experienced it cleaning oil rings and bringing back compression in cylinders.

2011 crv was getting 1200 miles to a qt. Of oil. Did piston soak with B12 and sea foam. Then i added new oil. Mpg went from 23 to 24-25 and 1/4qt. At 1200 miles. I would like to see a piston soak with gum out. Other videos show it desolves carbon well where B12 kind of just flakes off carbon. Love the videos!

If you have light scratches - it's ok. The question is if your cylinder shape is still a cylinder, usually they will be blown at the top and the shape will be oval at the top, but it will not be big enough to register it with an eye, you need a micrometer to measure your cylinders and pistons.

With that much oil at the top of the cylinder and the valves looking as wet as they do, I know you’ve done the valve seals but what about worn valve guides? After seeing this scope I am more inclined to believe it is coming from the top down and not the bottom up.

you have tried everything, take the motor out rebuild it, we cant wait

Berrymans is powerful stuff! Didn’t have much access to products nor time as i spent overnight sat my uncles place. 99 corolla. 2 bottles in cold engine, idled 25 mins. Engine oil changed . 3 bottles berrymans in the gas tank. 2 weeks later uncle says it’s not burning oil at all. Dave’s case must be super bad? I was afraid to mess up the seals but no adverse affects… so far.

Has anyone used redex I’m in Britain been using it for every second tank in my diesel car 👍great info video

As video starts.. 😎 then 😮 Now let's see how it's doing!! 😉(the HPL oil, that is!)

I think it’d be interesting to fill the cylinders with b12 again and attach an “agitator” to the outside of the engine that would turn the engine into an improvised ultrasonic cleaner. Then you would get the mechanical cleaning the mechanics talk about. May be a pie in the sky thought

Also, can rings be weakened and therefore cannot seal properly even if they are cleaned?

Just curious how much highway miles you put into these experiments and what speed bc ive noticed my honda tends to burn more oil at higher highway speeds

I personally do this way: Remove spark plugs Move pistons half way Fill all cylinders just below head gasket with Chem-Dip by Berryman and seal plugs opening with plastic I leave it there overnight In morning I check how much drained out and vacuum what is left Change oil, especially if chem-dip drained out the cylinders First start up won't super easy and very smoky Fab

Cylinder pressures are highest just after TDC as well

Worth mentioning, some engines will have more oil flow to the underside of the pistons than others, for example, those with oil cooling jets, though many connecting rods incorporate some feature to splash oil up there even without jets because the wrist pin needs oil. And regarding the mechanics saying it has to come apart. Sure, the most thorough fix to get it over with would be a teardown but that's cost prohibitive for many owners of loveable old beaters. Maybe a 60% fix is enough. I have the skills to do that job so I would if chemicals couldn't. But for the people who don't it's probably not worth the $100+/hour you'd spend at a shop plus the $500 or so in parts and everything else to replace while you're in there

Looking at the combustion chambers makes me think the oil is entering from the top possibly the valve seals are valve guides But a good cross hatch with bad oil rings will still use oil regardless of the cross hatch.

The only way to dissolve the carbon that's gumming up your oil rings would be to have them soaking in gunwash or some crazy chemical like that. You should try draining all the oil and dumping an entire 5 gallon barrel (or however much it takes) into the crank case so that the oil control rings are submerged. Leave it like that for a week maybe even dump some down the cylinders, then drain it out, fill it with oil run it , then change the oil again to get rid of any remaining chemical. If that doesn't work then its time for a rebuild.

Any new videos coming soon about your corolla? My Rav 4 2006 1400 miles just 1/8” below full mark with Berrymans carb cleaner treatments directly to the plugs as I mention before, it was consuming 1 qt every 400 miles. Please try that it will fix you corolla.

There are several things that cause an engine's oil level to drop. A few can but, most of oil loss problems cannot be fixed with chemicals. Best I can offer is good luck and don't hurt yourself or anyone else when that pretty car leaves you stranded in heavy traffic. Please carry the phone number for any wrecker services in your driving area. You may need their help before summer is over. No one will ever call you a quitter!

Hi dave, I'm still very interested and entertained by your oil burning experiment video s. Btw i love how you take care of your animals in your house. Back to the oil burning issue at hand. My car is also burning oil. It was pretty bad at a given time. Like 1 liter for 300 kilometers on the highway..... 🙄 So first i switched to 5w40 it helped a bit. But i wanted to run 5w30. Because it was burning oil i needed to add oil. I had a package of 5w30 C3 dexos2 shell helix in the trunk. I used this 1 liter to top off. And i noticed improvements. It took some couple of hundreds km and added another liter. Then i drained it. And Put carburetor cleaner in cyl6 (the only one with black spark pkug) Let i sit for couple of hour. And drained it. Then i used some oil to 'flush' away the residue of the carburetor cleaner. Now i use 6,5 liter 5w30 c3 dexos 2 shell helix oil (wich contains dmso) and after high load on hogg way use the usage of oil is now around 1750km for 1 liter.....which is better then ever before on 5w30