HEY B I WAS JUST LOOKING AT THE VIDEO AGAIN AND I THINK THAT THE PROP SHAFT DROPED OUT 15' DOWN THE SHORE LINE AND 15' OUT. SLOW MO REPLAY. WHEN YOU START TO MOVE AGAIN YOU CAN ONLY SEE ONE PROP WORKING.
@@EmilWilkensRC the lesson learned is to thoroughly review/go over all the hardware before the run. He did this but admitted to missing these threaded connections - tightening them up and putting thread locker in them. I lost the flex cable by not checking things before running it
I have the TFL Jet Boat and it's a blast. There are 2 big points of failure though. 1. The water pickup is not drilled out from the factory on the jet nozzle. The first time I ran the boat I nearly destroyed the ESC an motor because I didn't realize that it wasn't getting water. 2. The jet nozzle can NOT handle 4s. It works fine on 3s, but as soon as you try to run 4s it cracks along the edges.
Such a shame - so sorry this happened to you. I agree that it is absolutely unacceptable that the prop shafts aren't left and right threaded. Not even red thread lock would hold the shafts in place with that kind of horse power. I wonder if all TFL Arneson drives are standard clockwise threaded. That means that if you have a boat with a single Arneson drive, it would have the same issue because props spin counterclockwise. Maybe the boat is supposed to come with counter threaded universal yokes and shafts, but they screwed up at the factory and installed two clockwise threaded yokes. Who knows? Did Brian have the same problem with his boat? Another thing; those turn fins are way too pointy. I would round the tips off slightly because they are liability being so sharp and pointy. I have several TFL outboards and never had a problem with any of them. This might be an isolated issue - but hey, I feel your pain.
That sucks. I have had many. things like that happen. Glad to see you have the balls to let a company know when they are wrong.. I agree the Oxidine boats are definitely built way better than anything else. I would worry that if you drilled a pin through the shaft, it might weaken it and break. Definitely JB weld. unbelievable job on that build.
Need more information, because either the boat was set up from the factory to have both props rotating the same direction ? or there should be a right and left handed threads for counter rotation, or the design has some redesigning to be done ✅ Personally the design is lacking because I enjoy using reverse 🔄 without fear of the prop unscrewing and falling off. 😊
I feel your pain B. No loctite is unacceptable, no replacement parts is even worse. But I know you will have a record breaking boat When it’s dun…again and right.
I feel sorry for your loss...I REALLY do...as I had a similar thing happen. And, like you, I had no one to blame but myself. That, and another incident (with a land vehicle), taught me a valuable lesson - when dealing with ANYTHING that's an RTR or ARTR, as well as when installing anything having 'pre-built' components (such as a pre-built transmission, or (in your case) pre-built outdrive), ALWAYS disassemble (or, partially disassemble), to make sure everything was attached properly, everything was filled properly (such as pre-built shocks), and everything needing threadlocker is properly done. As for using retaining compound, that's probably NOT a good idea, as you'll never get those two parts apart, and the shaft could need to be replaced every so often. You could use red threadlocker, as that has the strongest hold, but it CAN (with heat) be removed. Alternately, you might want to check into orange threadlocker, from Permatex. It has a 'holding' strength almost a strong as red, but does not require heat to remove (it has a 'release' strength somewhat higher than blue). Orange threadlocker is a "happy medium" between blue & red - almost as strong as red, and parts are almost as easy to remove as when using blue. Getting to the two parts in question, true, it would be nice if TFL had designed/produced counter-threaded versions of parts 523B-43-04 (shaft) & 523B43-06 (not sure of the past name, but it's what the shaft is 'screwed' into)...but, unfortunately, such is not the case (I searched, trying to help you). But, using orange (or red) threadlocker (not retaining compound) will solve that, once you get a replacement shaft...and, speaking of that, I did find them in-stock, through TFL North America (a Florida-based business, similar to OSE). They can be found here: tflnorthamerica.com/product/tfl-replacement-shaft-arenson-drive-623843-04/ Best of all, the past is only $18. Now, get that boat fixed...we all want to see it running. 👍👍 😄
Question, could you drill the collar where the threads are ,drill & tap for a set screw - grub screw? If so, where the screw would be grind/ file a flat spot
The flex didnt come out of the boat, this is an entirly different design shaft system to the usual thing that happens when the flex comes out of the motor coupling. Where the whole flex/propshaft/dog & prop comes out to the bottom of the pond.
I tell everyone that wants to get into RC...you better be ready for disappointment and have the skills to build back. It's all part of the hobby. That totally sucks Big B!😮. Looking forward to seeing it run 🤘👍
Ahh, too bad!! Here's an idea: get a strong magnet, attach it to a strong and long rope behind your tug, so it drags along the pond bottom. Run your tug in the same loop as your Ariane. You just did 1 loop, so there's a chance you find it!
I wanted to use tfl out boards but everyone say the grear ones don’t last long and the shaft ones break so I never bought any of them , but I like dr jets idea of using grub screws to hold the shafts in on your drive units.
I bought a Tfl cheetah xl and on my maiden the Teflon liner let loose causing my collet to unscrew. Lost my flex cable and expensive prop. Tfl has issues
As I said When I FIRST saw this boat, I said it was gonna be a nightmare!! Sorry that happened to you!! That sucks!!! Not even a min on the water WTF!! I was looking forward to seeing this thing fly!! That's right, don't get mad, just make it better than it was
The engineers really screwed up. This is always going to be a problem if the drive is in a dual prop setup. Also I would be scared using reverse with this setup. I’ve been closely monitoring and watching your video’s on this boat build. I love the idea of the Ariane drives and was so close to building a new boat, you kinda saved me from a huge headache. Forget locktite, or even JB weld, pin might work but snap after a while. I’d weld the damn permanently.
Big B. I had a Popeye some years ago as I mentioned to you quite a while back. When I received it I found the hatch was cracked, the stuffing tube was not resined at all, so water would have come straight into the hull. Apart from that, it became a favourite of mine. Point being I guess is check everything 'cos you can't trust the buggers.
Hey b I would wait for a nice calm day and go swimming! I retrieved a prop and flex cable in 20ft of water at my fave boat spot!!! That little city pond can’t be more than 10-15 ft deep in the middle, get some snorkel gear and get your parts back! Also throw some green loctite on that and never have it come back off!
Brother this is BS I can't believe TFL did my boy BIG B like this! Feeling for you brother, being let down by components outside of your control that were sold as being high end, brutal. I come from a family of machinist and here is what I would recommend saving this boat and drive system. If you can find a local machinist, he could whip you up a couple shafts and modify the couplers with the correct threading (direction, depth and pitch). I would recommend having him thread the coupler the shafts go into with fine threads and make a new set of shafts to match. Fine pitch is far better at not self-loosening from spinning and vibrations and will avoid having your weak link be a thin pin. You could probably get this repair done for a fair price and improve the drive system. You got this brother.
I fly rc helicopters and we leave no stone unturned. I do not trust weather or not someone else put thread lock on any thread anywhere on a helicopter. You just lose a prop helicopters you lose the chopper. This could cost you anywhere from $300 to $2000 and up depending on the heli . Pretty sucky for that to happen ,but definitely a lesson learned. Can't wait to see that boat rip !
RC for 40 years, wouldn’t have thought to break them loose. And I would have thought 1000% they were properly tapped. No retaining compound can withstand that torque with the limited amount of threads.
Wow I can’t believe one of those isn’t reverse threaded. No amount of loc tite is going to hold that on if the prop rotation isn’t tightening it. My Popeye has an issue where the prop and rear edge of rudder is at the same distance from hull and they conflict with each other and I have to really dial down the steering dual rate to avoid contact. Poor poor design. I’m bummed that happened to you man, so much work for that to happen.
Ok , it’s like this , take off the offending coupling and weld up the threaded hole, then using a lathe tart up the weld, centre drill and re drill the hole THEN tap a left hand thread . If you can’t get a spare shaft , get some stainless steel rod and find a decent machine shop and get a new shaft made with the correct left hand threaded stub on the end . Complete ball ache though and TFL should foot the bill !! Complete and utter kick in the bollocks though !! I feel your pain😢
Listen the prop shaft fill out and fill out within about 7 to 20 ft of the shoreline and you were headed out on an angle I'm telling you I believe the pond is low enough for you to just go in either raw dog or with the waiters on and take a regular good old leaf rake not a stiff leaf rake you know the the fan style long one that comes with either plastic or the metal kind of rake that way you can hear a clink as you scrape along the bottom gently moving slowly through there. Just go back in the middle of the day and get it it's only about 7 to 20 ft in a straight line off of the shore. You did not lose the part when you made the turn.
Oof! Sorry your maiden didn't go as planned. I just lost my Oxidean 4519 prop yesterday, so I totally feel your pain but on a smaller scale. Those lessons hurt though! I was gonna ask you if you believe in cursed boats like the Titanic, but you explained the QC of TFL pretty well compared to the other guys out there. The thing that sets Bill apart is, he runs his boats, stands by his products, and communicates with his customer base! Yes, they are expensive.. but you're paying for quality 💯 ..haters can go suck eggs! Looks like you got a plan to get her Ironclad🦾✌
The water in that pond looks pretty clear. Can you put a boat or kayak in and try finding the prop and shaft. Probably not magnetic but seems like you would be able to see that big prop. I don’t blame you for being mad. Big bummer B. I feel for you brother.
compound on that fitting wouldn't have matered. seems to me they need a reverse drive option for that part. Probably that drive system isn't ment to be set up as a tandem drive.
Since im not going for speed records i dont sharpen my turn fins or props for safety reasons. As for me i pull a brand new drive apart and look it over and grease what i want the amount i want and locktite whatever needs it. On a side not thats why i liked the ebay drives i was getting, they had a step in the prop shaft so the only way it was comming out was if you pulled the drive off the boat. Not if the flex drive broke.
Rough day out 🤣🤙 had plenty of them, about to go run two tfls in windy conditions; 1124 ariane2 twin, and ose zonda, hoping not to wet rescue boat 😉🤞 those arneson drives look cool and absolutely over complicatedly unnecessary. My 1124 twin with stingers handles amazing for a heavy boat.
I never take apart anything RtR unless it breaks or is from a less reputable brand, I'll grease some diffs maybe... Sorry BB, some days just aren't ours as they say.
@@IRONCLADRC They manufacture and sell twin surface drives with their own products. Of course, I think it's a solved product. I think it would be better to contact them for details.
I own 4 TFL boats, THEY ALL NEED REDOING! New servo and Servo mount, throw out garbage seaking 180, and swap motor for one with proper kv. - cheetah xl- nitemare money pit, epoxy covered stinger mount, toss 2 piece shafts x 2 and seaking 180, clean and re epoxy slop. Swap in tp4060/1650 kv -Pursuit carbon -toss seaking 180, servo and mount , one piece shaft - Popeye , same -34” single cheetah - same and toss loose offset rudder with excess play and use tight no slop speed master 3 1/2” setback / 20 size rudder Outerlimits decent bit 1 piece shaft , upgrade servo and mount… TFL are good but rest has to be gone through
@@IRONCLADRC You can`t trust any builds but your own, even they can fail at times. TFL design had you fuc#ed ,as you said, no matter what rotation you chose. I do good props also and i really understand the head noise you have!
my friend you should be able to recover almost everything in the mini lake. See this video of yours at 2:28 seconds. Look frame by frame and you will see the pieces coming out and sinking. it's 6 or 7 feet from the bank
I know its cold but go snorkeling water was shallow and search area is small or try a fishing rod to drag bottom with trebel hooks and some weights. Didnt make it very far so you should be able to search for it pretty easily.
Me and my dad have been heat racing rc boats for many years now and if there is one thing we've learned if you but a boat from someone that you didn't build you take it completely apart and I mean completely and loctite any metal on metal screw joint be sides the collet. I feel for you we've lost many of the props when we first started.
Yep, that's exactly what i have done with this boat, I loc-tited everything when I say everything I mean everything! All but the output shaft which i didn't think would need to be addressed, if cause I sure would have
I am surprised TFL didnt use left & right hand threads on those drive shafts/cups, not to mention where was the threadlocker on those threads anyway when TFL built the boat/hardware. Thats a bad design anyway on how those stub shafts attatch to the drive cups. I know its more money & work, but I think I would replace those Arnson drives with stingers & a rudder.
I really think the only right way to fix it is to reverse the threads on one of the shafts, in this case the left prop. Not ever sure how Youd do that on the "Cup" part.
Really sad to see that happen. 😢 I don't have many good words to day about TFL. I Agree with you.. I've been waiting on an email response for 2 months from them and repeatedly followed up. 70% of their products come just fine out of the box The other 30% will leave you wanting to curse them out. I'm really sorry B. In regards to your question... Honest answer 3k spent.. I wouldn't even tighten a grub screw So fucking sad to see.
If you could cut threads on the bigger 1/4" section just above the small thread area, you can put a nut on it & tighten the nut against the black ball cup. Thats what id try. Ive cut SS with a Dye, its slow but possible. Just spitballin ideas
Man that sucks! We know just how pissed you are with that rant, it just shows how passionate you are about the hobby. I recently bought a lightly used TFL Pursuit off a friend, found that the fibreglass was very thin in the transom and both sides of the hull, so I light weight glass tissue'd the hull to add strength and gutted the drive to replace the 2 piece drive with a single 3/16 drive, fantastic handling boat, so I would recommend it. I probably would have been one of the few who would have stripped the drive completely, It needs a redesign for sure, maybe a 2mm hardened steel roll pin with "e" clips to guarantee the drive can't pull out, I used to build big rc helicopters so stripping and checking everything was normal good practice, because they will always want to shake themselves loose at some point.
😢 Big B , the boat gang will help . Give it a day or two . Thing that is that if this is not a mistake on their part and they always provide clockwise threads in both , then this is an issue and one should forget about this Arson crap .
I share your disappointment, almost have the same issue with my tfl mini zonda counter rotating driveshafts . But as a mecanic lover as I know that you are I check that before. I’m sorry for your prop ! Put a pine in bro ! Got to be more careful 😝😁
I figure that in cars as well as boats, we should of learned that there is a weak point. This is allways the weak point on boats. Only one. Like cars its the spur gear and pinion that are the weak and safty points. Like wheel and rims at 200 mph on rc cars that dont last. Keep up the good work. My 500$ boat sat for a year waiting on parts.
That prop is out by the 2:33 mark. Time to go snorkeling. If it's not too deep it probably laying down. If it's deeper and the bottom is soft it could be standing up.
Bro I felt that i'm so sorry Big B 😢 after you put all of your time money and love for this hobby into that boat bro. The truth is it's not your fault Big B just faulty parts. We know you know what you're doing. It just sucks big time on your maiden voyage. I know those props and parts are not cheap brother. Hopefully you can figure out what the mechanical issue is in a YMCA pool or something like that after you get your new props in so you can recover the parts. Im really sorry.
Look @2:35 you're only throwing one rooster tail. That prop is maybe 15 or 20 feet out. Get a magnet broom on an extendable pole and I'm thinkin you'll have your nice prop and outdrive shaft back pretty easy.
It looks like it fell off right around the second burst. Not sure how deep, if shallow enough. I bet if you walk it the same angle out ward, you could find it. Just by lightly sweeping your feet back and forth.
Im sure we all realize that you can’t be trashing boat companies out there but on this one B? They deserve some shade man. With all the items you listed that broke free inside the boat, that just shows how lax they were in assembly. Epoxy that breaks off that cleanly was applied before the surface was clean. It must have had some oil or Mold release or some contaminate there to inhibit a good bond. And for such an important part, the motor mounts? Really? Come on. That’s unacceptable to the highest degree. But,… it shows that they weren’t taking the time and extra effort to get it right. Thus all these parts breaking off, coming loose and un threading with a small amount of force. You were correct at 10 mins from the end of that vid buddy: NOBODY would take the time to disassemble such a complicated, supposedly RTR stern drive. Beautiful to look at! Hell, I was even thinking one day,…. Not now. I fly big beautiful scale RC planes but looking at those drives? That’s factory issues not user/consumer concerns. There’s my rant for today. Was really looking forward to seeing her go man. Not your fault B. Zero. Not even a bit. Final thought: would a magnet pick that prop up?
Sucks to see, sorry for all the hard work, money, and time put into it. It looks like the shaft fell out at exactly 2:41 in the video, at that moment you hit the throttle as it was coming back to you, right in between the two islands. I have four TFL boats with normal flex cable drives and have had no issues.. I can’t believe they wouldn’t use opposite threaded shafts on those drives, that’s either a mistake or just a stupid design
Sry to see :( that you lost the axel and propp, but if you look back on the video , you can see when it stopped spinning on the right side, you sould be able to find the missing pice
It's just like cars...when manufacters try to reinvente the wheel...you know 💩 is coming soon...sorry for your loss. Already done that path on some other rc boats of loosing props and normal shafts. Just buy new and it the water again...now reinforced 🎉
Salut et bien là c'est un manque de chance de perdre cette pièce dès le début 🫣 Moi sur mon UL19 drag c'est plutôt les arbres qui cassent et j'en casse un paquet tellement il y a de couple moteur et hélice mais bon ça s'appelle la passion 😜😋😁👶🚲🛴🇨🇵☀️💦🤔
3 min 15 seconds in your video is that it in the water? Sorry this happened to ya and all, but I never take any rc out without going over them top to bottom no matter the brand. I've had a zonda with no issues what so ever. Never can be to careful good luck
