CAUTION: Many newer furnaces supply 110v to the HUM terminal, not 24v! You will instantly ruin the solenoid if you wire it this way if you have 110v to the HUM. Check it with a voltage checker before you connect it like this. Mine had 110v to the HUM so I connected that and the furnace neutral to a 24v transformer, which then goes to the humidifier.
connect the solenoid valve to terminals w and c one the furnace board. they only have power, 24 volt, when the thermostat is set to heat and the blower fan is on. easy
This is a good furnace humidifier install video. The main concern is attaching the power/solenoid control to the furnace 24VAC to ensure power/water only occurs when the furnace is running. Some details: 1. your humidifier is a continuous water flow with a water solenoid to control the water flow, or 2. your humidifier is a reservoir type with an electric (24VAC) motor to rotate the filter. In my opinion, the reservoir type is the best as you only replace the water when it evaporates and electricity is only used when the furnace runs. In either approach, it is important to ensure power is only available when the furnace is on. The installation difficulty is furnace humidifier instructions don't help you with the 24VAC furnace connect (to ensure it only runs when the furnace runs). Why is it the humidifier companies don't provide this information? Maybe they sell less product if the consumer is more aware.. You need to find out how to so the install to your furnace 24vac connections. Having outlined this install information, it is important to understand problems will result over time: 1. You need to (at least yearly) descale the filter (or buy a new one) 2. You need to check the solenoid to ensure it is working correctly (not running when the furnace is nor running) and replace (if the rotating electric motor is running all the time or if the water is dripping all the time). If you have questions, just ask.
Depends on your preferences, really. HUM is specifically there for a humidifier. It is powered only when blower and heat is running. EAC is powered any time the blower is running. So I guess if you ever think you will want to add humidity without the heat on (by manually switching your thermostat to "fan"), then you would use EAC.
My Bryant 757M whole house humidifier fan will not activate. The solenoid opens and closes for water, the clicking of the humistat clicks when it should.....but not fan,. I checked the incoming voltage on the motherboard at the Power (white) / Black (Cord) and it read 120 V. The connector for the unit that supplies power to the solenoid reads a voltage of 24. The Primary side of the Transformer reads 75-80 ohms whereas the secondary transformer read about 5 - 6 ohms; it is a Pacific Electronics Class 2 Trasformer PRI: 120V / 60 Hz and a SEC: 24V 10VA. I am not familiar with the component marked SR11CS10DC24 10A/24DC "STETRON" but I assume it is a relay?? I want to bypass the fan directly into the 110 outlet to validate the fan works if it stands along without the motherboard; I assume I will not fry / kill myself. I am learning this electrical stuff by the hour so pardon the low competence summary. IF the fan, whenn by passed works, and that "relay thing" is not and issue...not sure how to test that unless I try to use my multi-meter on the back of the board and, if it does work, I am not sure what the reading should be and if I require power or not. With this said, part of the back of the mother board, directly under the Transformer looks a little oxidized. I am thinking if the fan works and someone informs me how to validate the "relay" then would fine steal wool potential solve / improve the chance of power. Again, all parts appear to work but the fan....which may just be old and the bearings are shot. ANY HELP/RECOMENDATIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
you can use copper or plastic tubing for water! mine was plastic when i bought my house 25 years ago and never leaked!! i just installed a new humidifier using the same tubing. i like to use plastic because it is less likely to kink. i used plastic on my fridge ice maker because the copper line kinked. i will never use copper again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This might be what I need to do to install mine, however, does this not harm overall efficiency in the winter if you're putting cold air back into the hot air?
Take the saddle valve OFF! You have to replace it ASAP with a stubbed out 1/4" ball valve that is nowhere near the vertical hot water tube. I can tell you that the valve WILL FAIL and the slow leak of water is going straight down into your water heater and soaking the insulation around the tank. This will cause 1000s of tiny perforations to develop and you can kiss your heater good bye. I did this to a 3 year old heater and it cost me over $600.00 to replace it. Sharkbite or solder, but get that piece of junk off of your system, please! I just installed a 760 on my furnace and have a 6" stub out (horizontally) from the hot water side and a chrome-plated 1/4" valve on the end. Best money you can spend.
Good video,For Bryant units HUM is the right terminal if you want the thermostat to control furnace and the humidifier (Check first if your thermostat model can set % humidity).Also consider if your house was to dry it will take several days to reach the %.
Thanks for the video. I like to keep my furnace running 24/7. I am finding that water also drains from the humidifier 24/7 as well. Is this normal? I have checked and made sure that there is nothing wrong with my solenoid and the humidistat. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
