*Great unit that’s easy to install and use. It’s relatively quiet compared to window units and **Fastly.Cool** , and it cools down our whole living room, side room and bathroom; which is a large space for any unit to cool.*
Thanks a million for this video! I have a 36 inch Hunter Old Type original that stopped working-They don't make this fan anymore and I was super stressed out as I had bought it 44 years ago figuring it would last me a lifetime...After watching this video I followed your steps and found exactly what you said I would-all gunked up inside and almost no oil! This video saved the day for me and after cleaning up and adding new oil it runs like brand new! Thanks again!!!!
So glad to hear this. I was recently at an antique fan meet in New Orleans and an older couple came in with a Hunter Original that was so gummed up that it barely ran at all. In about half an hour I performed the steps in this video, clearing the oil passages and de-gunking the extremely gunked bearing and it ran like new. The couple were so thrilled. It made my day.
I just wanted to thank the person that made this video! I received a Hunter 22272-504 that had not been "cared for" in many many years. There was NO oil in it, shaft oils grooves gunked up, oil fill hole literally took a nail to bust out a dirt dobber nest, etc. Once cleaned, she purrs like a kitten and run so smoothly! She is now on my patio helping a lot with the south Louisiana summer heat. This video gave me the "guts" to clean her up ... thank you!
Excellent information; easy to listen to and understand the detail of just what & why this is the proper way to disassemble the fan. I would suggest anyone who is disassembling their fan to take pictures of each step to avoid getting confused when re-assembling the parts, and which step comes first, second, and third. The video couldn’t have been any better!
Take many pictures of the wiring before you disconnect any of them when tearing one of these fans down. I actually closely snipped the wires on the switches instead of disconnecting them so that enough of the color was left so that I could identify them later. My Hunter fan (23572) had a few more wires and a simple 2 pole CAP. I did most of the cleaning with a vacuum cleaner. This video helped tremendously.
I did not fast forward through any of this video. On so many other videos I do. There was a lot to cover and you did a good job. The Hunter fans are remarkable but they do need maintenance. This will help me service them for my clients who own these. Thanks for taking the time to share.
dortot1 I appreciate that. It’s a process, but the result is gratifying. I’ve had this very fan hung in my guest room since this video and it’s silent and strong.
What a great video, thank you for taking the time to do it. You are a braver man than I though as I don't think I would want to undertake it. I have two Hunter originals, 1988/1989 vintage that have been running at low speed 24/7 continuously since new and all I've don't is make sure the oil reservoirs are full. Hope they outlast me.
Thanks! Your fan will be a bit more difficult to take apart due to the reverse switch in the housing, but once you get beyond that, it's mostly the same.
Great video with good photography. And clear sound. I agree that the Zoom Spout Oiler is the best for replacement oil, very high quality synthetic, available on the shelf at most Lowes or any HVAC supply and less than Five bucks.
I watched this video because I'm trying to fix a 22285. It starts very slowly, sometimes not at all. But if you give it a push, it runs great. Takes over 2 mins to spin down when turned off. I thought the capacitor must need replacing, but when I looked in the lighting fixture, I didn't find one. I thought it must be in the motor housing, so watched this video to see how to get in there. Now I see that the fan in the video doesn't even have a capacitor, and wondered about mine. Sure would hate to go through all this and find it doesn't even have a capacitor!
Great informative video. I have a Hunter ceiling fan that I installed in 1987 and still use. It has an electronic capacitor system. Over the years I have replaced the pull switch 3 times (always chain pulled out) and the capacitor once. Each time the fan was a little different after the repair. I have had off, low1, low2, high, then off, off, off, high. My current configuration is low1, low2, high and high. I have to turn the fan off at the wall switch. I have been careful to mark all the wires and put things back they way they were so I don't understand how it comes out different. Are there differences in switch number designations? I have always bought switches that were marked L, 1,2,3 so I do not understand what happens. Anyway, it serves me well and I'll replace it with another Hunter when the time comes. The old ones like in this video seemed to be better but perhaps a lot heavier. Thanks for doing this video.
mine is a 22306, it was in an old home, not nearly as dirty as yours, just dust and old oil, some overspray paint on the windings but does not appear to affect the operation of the fan, my blades are cracked and have been painted white, thanks for the video
Have a 22272 that was barely turning just humming took apart and cleaned only problem has extra wires a brown and gray. I put back together exactly as came apart it does nothing is it fixable or now a paperweight
Nope. That bottom plate is cast. It's a thin casting, but the angles around the screw recesses would be impossible in material that thick with any stamping process. Those thick blocks around the perimeter are a dead giveaway that it's cast, not stamped. Not to mention all the sprue marks between the vent holes! (you need lots of sprues in a thin casting)
In that case, it’s a much thinner cast than they typically use their painted fans. An easy way to tell is that the thick cast bottom plates have a circular vent in place of one of the oblong vents on the bottom.
Very in depth and informative. I'm using a fan motor on a tinkering project and according to the housing that I may be thinking it's a Hunter but not sure. Anyway, the motor has yellow, blue, white and orange wires coming out of it. Before I ruin the motor, could you give me some ideas for which wires go to what?
I just picked up two originals that were going to be scrapped. I only payed $10 each for them, so I feel that wasn't too bad. They both were completely frozen, but I got them unstuck and they both run. I have yet to take them apart and clean them properly, just put enough oil to get then turning because I would have to drain all of that back out. They are pretty rough, and will need quite a bit of work (at least one of them is). Any info on how to date them? One is black and has a metal nose cone, the other is white (or used to be) and has a brass plate and a plastic nosecone. Mine are also missing all of the mounting hardware and the blades. I have searched, the mounting hardware seems to be pretty common and easy to find, but the blades and irons are quite expensive. Also, do all of them have the "isolation rings" because if not mine are missing as well, although the screw holes in the rotor look like the irons for the blades should mount directly to it without a ring.
Thanks to this video, I was able to disassemble, clean, re-oil, and get two 40+ year-old Hunter Original fans working again in a 130-year-old house that originally belonged to my great-grandparents and has been passed down to my parents. Both fans had been frozen for years and after watching your video I felt confident I could get them running again, which I did. One question: have you ever had a Hunter Original fan you couldn’t fix the wobble on? One fan I repaired, a 52”’ model #22272, is perfectly balanced, the other is a 36” model #22270 and I have checked all screws and tried balancing the blades, but it still wobbles. My folks say the increasing wobble is one reason they stopped using it. I don’t know if this was an issue or not when it was originally installed in the early ‘80s, because that’s when my late grandparents owned the house. I’m just wondering if you’ve ever come across a vintage Hunter you couldn’t get balanced no matter what?
Glad to hear that this video helped you out! These fans are built to last nearly indefinitely with just a little maintenance and regular oiling - a rarity in this day and age! I use a digital kitchen scale to weigh blades and blade irons individually and then mount like pairs on the fan. If it’s still wobbling, make sure the blades are “ in clock”, meaning blades squarely at 12, 3, 6, 9 o’clock. From this point, a blade balancing kit with 3-5 gram weights will take care of it.
Is it normal for the motor housing to get very warm after 10-12+ hours of operation and have a faint "clicking" noise right after shutting off and when cooling down? What temp should the motor center shaft area be after running for many hours ( I use a laser temp gun) Thank you
Thanks for educating everyone on this. I have a model 23855 which has the reverse switch. After watching another of your videos I saw that you can not reinsert wires in the switch if you pull them out to release the wires. I don’t find any other videos addressing how to get the wires out of the switch to fully disassemble like you did. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for any help.
Derek, Excellent video and much appreciated. I have a Hunter 22306 which came with an older house i purchased. Was plenty dirty. One day it just failed to start turning when i activated the wall control switch. I could hear a humming sound in the fan and when i hand started the blade it would begin turning. You briefly mentioned a capacitor in your brother's fan. i assume this fan has no capacitor? When i disassembled only about 1/2 tsp. of oil came out. Shaft was moderately dirty. I assume it just needed a good cleaning. I will assemble and try, but before i put it back together thought i would ask the group if this model had a capacitor. Online info says some models do not have a capacitor. (Hunter support was absolutely no help...they recommended getting a new fan!). Thanks again. Tim
Tim, you are correct, your 22306 does not have a capacitor. It uses a 2.5A shaded pole motor like the one in this video. It sounds like it could benefit from a good cleaning. Hopefully this video helps!
I have the same fan I purchased in 1985. It is 20’ in the loft and is in need of cleaning. Your video was most useful. Am I correct to assume the oiler hole is the hole in the top assembly?
Question, after cleaning it did it run faster and have more airflow? I have a Hunter original that I bought in 2002 that has never been cleaned and looking through the top I can see it's full of dust/crap. For the past few years I thought it was getting slower, but I thought it was just my imagination. My mom (who lives in another state) also has one and this past January when I visited her I turned hers up on high and it was putting out much more air and turning much faster than mine does. Her medium speed is like mine on high . So I guess I wasn't imagining things. Just wanted to make sure before I take it apart to see if it's worth it. Thanks!
Love my old Hunter Fans! Thanks so much for the video, excited to pull them apart and service them now! Any info on what weight oil to use when refilling or just purchase the Hunter branded refill kits?
Great video. Thank you. I have a Hunter fan that likely dates back to the 1950's. 3-speeds run perfectly, however lately, it's begun to have hum on the low and medium speeds, NOT on high speed. From your video, it appears that an old model does not have a capacitor, or does it? Advice / help please.
There's a small hole on the top of the motor near the downrod that feeds oil down the shaft into the oil cup. These take about 1.5oz of oil. I use Zoom Spout oil - very high quality stuff.
Great job, I have 8 of these purchased in 1989 and used 365 days in the Dominican Republic, now have one with need of Capacitor replacement. Is is possible and where to get the part? Thanks
I have 4 Hunter division-Robbins & Meyers fans, Model 22272, in an outside atrium that have never been serviced. I'm about to take one apart that is running rough. I watched your video, Thank you. Hunter customer service just said its old and buy a new one. Any other recommendations?
I’m working on an identical fan and believe the coil may be shorted, as the breaker blows when I turn the fan on. Do you know what the resistance of the two coils (high and low speed) should be ? I really appreciate this video !
I don't know the resistance of this fan specifically, but on some recent shaded pole Emersons I've worked on, 52" fans ohm out around 15 Ω and 36" fans at 22 Ω. That should at least give you a ballpark!
The Reason for No Reverse Switch was, On the Old Hunters You didn't Reverse Direction with a Switch, You could Reverse the Pitch on the Blades. Forget if you could just twist the blades, or loosen a screw and twist. Removed A Working Hunter Original on a Job Yesterday. May dissemble, Clean and Use. They are Quiet. But 2.5 Amps. May bite the bullet and use a Modern DC Fan
Awesome video Derek. This week I'm planning on doing the same to my reversair original too. When I got it, I put oil in it and it still does not run smoothly so I'm guessing this one could have the same problem. Just stinks that I have to drain the oil back out of it and then put it back in again after. By the way, do you have or know of someone with a white 52" reversair original up for sale? Thanks in advance.
Hey Bobby. It sounds like the oil is not making its way where it needs to go, or there is too much crud in the works. Sometimes, oil can make it down into the oil cup where the thrust bearing is, pump up the shaft and then overflow, slinging oil all over the room! This happens when the oil return hole is clogged. Sounds like your fan needs a complete tear down, inspection and cleaning. I hope my video helps. I don't currently know of any white 52" Reverseaires up for sale. Periodically check craigslist, eBay or Facebook Marketplace. I've actually scored my last four fans from FB marketplace :O
Derek's Ceiling Fans Thanks so much Derek. Luckily since the day I put a full tube of Hunter Original oil in, oil has not leaked out at all, but I feel like maybe the shaft is clogged so I do plan on taking it down and cleaning and investigating it like you did in your video. I'll reply back after I'm finished with it to let you know how it went. Thanks for your help and I will keep my eyes out online for more 52" Reversaires.
Hey Derek, an update on my Reversaire. I took it apart, cleaned it really well with steel wool and WD40, cleaned out the oil cup, gave it some paint touch-ups, put in some fresh oil, and also decided to get an isolation ring for it being it didn't come with one when I got it off craigslist from its original owner. Without the isolation ring, the motor gave off a fair amount of vibration into the blades. I also put all new rubber grommets on the blades. I would say she purrs like a kitten but she doesn't "purr" at all now! Lol. Now it's running almost like new. Thanks again for the video and the advice Derek.
Hello! I was given an Original 23604 complete fan that hums. Two wires popped out of 3 speed switch when looking for a connection problem before I made a drawing. No parts, drawings, schematics are available from Hunter! Shame I don't have original receipt for a free replacement. So, my motor wiring unlike any found on the net including this site. Does anyone have the schematics so I can look at the windings with a meter? I notices the coils on mine are black, all others shown are copper colored, thus looking for normal reading other than open. TIA.
@@dereksantiquefans5049 Its actually 10W (or ISO 32,) any light weight, non detergent, machine oil, ZoomSpout is great and easy to get, I have recently been using SuperLube synthetic lieghtweight oil - ISO 32.
Derek watched the video it was helpful. I have a Hunter Original Model 25574-001 it had stopped rotating I disassembled the bearing pack and in the disassembly you mentioned a felt washer, in my fan this appears to be a rubber shock absorber and appears to be deteriorating. Would you have an idea where I can find a replacement.
Yours is a newer model, the bearing assemblies are slightly different. Sometimes you can find the entire stack on eBay, including the rubber shock absorber.
mine has a plastic switch housing held in place by a wire, when trying to reassemble i could not get the housing tight enough to the fan body to prevent oil leaking
Held in place by a wire? It should have five wires running down the central shaft into the switch housing. The switch housing screws into the shaft (reverse-threaded). A plastic switch housing shouldn't be leaking unless it's cracked.
Excellent video, i have done all the cleaning, but am struggling with the wiring. Evidently i didn't take good enough reference photos. If anyone has a diagram for a mid-1980's Hunter Original Model #25572 i would be grateful!
Hope you can help Derek. How do I wire a 21495? I have loose wires and don't know where they go. I replaced the 3-speed pull switch putting the wires back correctly in L, 1,2,3. I have a white and red wire left over that must go into the reverse switch, but I'm lost. Thank you.
All the white will tie in together. To just themselves.. then the black is the L or load then youd have 3 other wires that go to the motor windings which would be low med and high. Then you have the lighting wire comibg off the sockets and you tie the black or blue to the switch then to the black load wire and white to the rest of the whits wires all tied together...
How do you add oil to it? Also, do you know where to purchase replacement blades? Thank you. I loved the video. I have to clean about 12 fans at our school. The school was built in 1910.
order 12 tubes of hunter original oil to use for each fan. take the cap off, then snip the little “nipple” top with scissors. put the tube into the oil hole that’s located at the top of the motor (watch the video and you’ll see the tiny hole, sometimes it has an indicating sticker too), squeeze gently and do about 3 drops every 2 minutes. it’s a long process, but you can’t put the whole tube in at once. not sure about where to get replacement blades at sadly
You could use 3 in 1 blue oil for shaded pole Original. It’s heavier, and the shaft on shaded pole Original can handle heavier oil. The oil that came with shaded pole Original is same as 3 in 1 blue.
I have the same model - did you ever get schematics? I think the capacitor might be shot on mine, but would sure love to know if there is one or not, and whether it resides in the motor housing before taking it apart.
Try some PB Blaster to get it unfrozen. It's not terribly uncommon for these to seize if run without oil for a long period of time. It's likely that once you get it freed, it'll be fine. Maybe some 0000 steel wool on the shaft with WD-40. Oil up the reservoir with Zoom Spout when its back together.
Derek's Ceiling Fans hey man I did everything you said and it spins really well by hand my issue now is that when it seized it was on and overheated the motor I guess do you know where I could find parts like the winding and capacitor ?
