I might be aging myself here, but remember the 394 when they first came out ! We ran Stihl 084's for years, and still used them for bigger wood, but the Husky 394 was a game changer for settings with smaller timber. Light, small saws, and shorter bar made for an easier day !
@@tnbrfller The 084 I haven’t had a chance to run one of those yet. A buddy picked one up cheap a while back but it was in such rough shape he never even messed with it just flipped to a older gentleman that said it was his go to saw back in the heyday of logging.
@@ecook1501 Nice ! Iv'e been keeping my eyes open for an 084 to restore, they are quite rare now and go for more money now than when they were new. Cheers amigo.
Great vid Tinman! Thank you for sharing the knowledge! This will come in handy. I was just gifted two Stihl 440's in rough shape, but I'm gonna make em shine. Again, thanks Tinman!
Good content Tinman! One thing I would add is make sure when you first place the crank into the first case half you make sure the Flywheel side is going on the left side of the saw. Someone doing this for the first time could put it in backwards with the clutch side of the crank on the Flywheel side. You can also put the Flywheel nut on the crank before you hit it with a hammer to save the threads.
I just rebuilt a 395xp with new bearings, seals and a Hyway Big Bore kit with a pop up piston. It was a fun project. Can’t wait to see this one go together.
Picked up a couple 394 parts saws today and 2 of them are worth rebuilding so will be doing them along with a 288 and 2100 soon. Love these big old husky’s.
Love your work, but just with the non fitted bearing you had issues with during assembly, it was probably ok since it was hot to use the splitter but not if cold. I had the same issue and had old bearing internal races slit vertically prepared for just that event. They are a perfect fit for the shaft and simply pull off. I used that and a few packers and used the thread on the end of the shaft to drive it down with say a washer and nut or clutch if on clutch side. Always good work mate
You are timing on this is perfect for me! I just received a box of parts to build a 394 basically from the ground up from a good friend of mine. I'll be taking notes!!!
Tinman, just rebuilt two Stihl 036 Pro’s, got them free from a guy and the cases were covered in asphalt like stuff you mentioned. Brake clean and a tooth brush, took a long time to get it off and didn’t get it all.
036s are great saws, they really rip with some port work too. The pop up piston that Hyway makes for them is pretty nice, I run one in my ported oem cylinder
394 ARE GREAT SAWS RAN MY BUDDYS WITH MUFFLER MOD AND BASE GASKET DELETE ,,8 PIN RIM SPROCKET 24 INCH BAR IT WAS THE HARDEST PULLING SAW I EVER RAN MAN DID IT CUT FAST 👍👍👍
I built a 394XP a couple years ago for my uncle, he handed me the carcass and said “it just needs a piston”…. Well it needed a piston because it ate 3 balls out of the PTO side bearing…. I put in a big bore kit with a pop up and the 395XP upgrade kit…. I think I had around 2hrs into grinding the cylinder…. It is a pretty wild saw now, the 3100 Xtra-Pro.
For a guy with all those saws, a media blasting cabinet, powder coating kit & spray gun for cerekote could come in handy.....You could powder coat the cases, cerekote piston heads & spray graphite on the piston skirts.
@@tinmanssaws I really miss having a garage/workshop. I still have a blasting cabinet, HF powder coating kit & some other related stuff in storage. Nor only do chainsaw stuff but motorcycle parts.
I know Husqvarna makes some 40mm stroke engines. I was hoping I could find between a 52 to 56mm x 40mm top end that could bolt directly onto a motorized bike/moped bottom end.
Great content Tinman, i was wondering do you not bother taking any material out of inner crankcase halfs for more fuel/air volume before its assembled?
Do you have a good set of numbers for a 28 super? I was gonna removed the base gasket. Trim the intake side of the piston to put it back to stock. Maybe 1 degree lower. Work the transfers & raise the exhaust 2.5-3 degrees. What do you think?
If you drop the cylinder, say 20 thou (gasket delete) and say 10 thou is 1 degree of timing then that means your exhaust would open 2 degrees later (for instance 102 vs 100) and your intake would open 2 degrees sooner (say 77 atdc vs 75 atdc). So if you raise your exhaust 20 thou and cut the intake side of the piston you'll end up with a stock height exhaust roof and an intake that will open 2 degrees sooner plus whatever you take off the intake skirt. Hope that helps
Could it be the tank leaked and someone used Flex Seal* " as seen on tv" one of my favorite infomercials. If it can seal a screen door in the bottom of a boat, why not a powersaw tank. 😂
Make sure when you hit it with the hammer that you're holding the saw in the air, if you do it on the bench the energy transfers to the bench instead of the flywheel
