Just want to say Thanks, didn’t know I had a 440E😳 I have a 240 for back-up, living up north you need dependable gear and I still burn wood. 4 years no problem good job guys👍🏽
I just bought a 440 E series that doesn't have the tool less chain tensioner. I'm happy about it as I prefer the simple nut and screw. Very nice chainsaw for the other reason you stated.
It's the better saw of the two. I have a 440e as well. The 440e II is the one with the tool-less chain tensioner. Those tool-less tensioners tend to be junk.
@@obeconoberougle9497 I've got the tool less version, bought it 5 years ago and use it a lot. I've never had a problem with the tensioner and I prefer that saw to my son's 460 Rancher even though the blade is smaller and it has less power. Much easier/lighter to handle!! I do like the compression release starting on the rancher though. The 440 can be temperamental bugger.
The too-less chain tensioner is a nice feature but some of the customers using them do not quite get the knack for the proper operation. When adjusting the chain after the bar and chain is properly on the saw, it pays to follow these few steps. Tighten down the main bar nut tight and back it out about 1-2 turns. Wiggle the bar as the chain is tensioned towards the (+) sign. Make sure the chain is snug tight by turning the dial firmly (+). When turning the dial it is a firm process, not like adjusting a sound dial on a speaker. Wiggle the bar as you are tightening. Then tighten down the main bar nut. Take a heavy rag and manually spin the chain carefully. Test the tension again. After a chain spins it may seat differently when finding its grove. Tighten again with the steps above if the chain is not on snug. Chains become loose over time naturally when cutting, but if you follow these steps and tighten “Firmly” then the Too-Less model can be a good feature.
GOOD video. I was confused by the tool less chain tensioner and how it was used until I watched what you did and now my chain is snug, but can be turned by hand. A picture is worth a 1000 words? Also I did not know the air filter was a 2 piece one that snaps apart/together. Many thanks for your presentation!
Elgin, IL dang. I was up there many years ago and installed the control system in your water treatment plant. Cool little town you have up there in the snow belt. I just bought a bran spankin new 440e and it doesn't have the spiffy chain adjustment. Bombed I guess?
He's incorrect. The 440e doesn't have the tool-less chain tensioner. That model is the 440e II. The 440e is the better of the two anyway. Those tool-less chain tensioners on any chainsaw are typically junk compared to standard bar nuts.
Just tore my 440 apart trying to find a bad fuel line, or the cause for the bulb not pumping up. What a nightmare! Three hoses, 6 connections, and you have to take everything off to get to them. I've worked on easier saws without a doubt. Turned out to be the carburetor, as the hoses looked to be good, but it all had to come off anyway. Tip, take step by step pictures. Alas I did not. You guys wouldn't happen to have a fuel hose video, would ya? I bought all new OEM formed hoses, because I ain't doing this again. You know, I always use Sta-Bil, always run the saw dry, and ALWAYS use fresh fuel, past 30 days gets tossed. No idea what happened.
I love husqvarna products they've always treated me incredibly well , I currently have a 450E2 with a 16" narrow kerf bar and chain and a 440 with a 13" narrow kerf as well as a 16" if I wish which is my back up saw and I love them box but I gotta say I've never seen that tool-less chain tensioner system the 440E has there I had no clue they used that and honestly I'm somewhat disgusted and shocked as well quite disappointed, it may work quite well I have no idea but I just could never applaud that type of chain tensioning/retaining setup on any saw. But can you consider maybe doing a detailed video doing the adjustable 460 rancher oil pump retro-fit/conversion into the 445/450 chassis of saws as I'm highly interested in carrying this mod out myself but the extent in which the metal oil pump cover plate from a 455/460 must be modified to properly fit the 445/450 chassis is unclear to me as I've found almost nobody even mentioning this modification is possible but I know it is cause I seen a video of a guy who did it but it was not well detailed. Edit , I've also heard you can also use the adjustable oil pump from a 346xp as well.
Absolutely , the 445 is a significant upgrade all around over the 440 , better yet you might as well just spend only $20-30 more and get.the 450 instead of the 445, I had a 445 and now have a 450 , loved the 445 to death and it was an excellent saw that went through some serious shit including a garage fire which it survived somehow only needing the primer bulb replaced and a good cleaning. But now as having owned the 450 for 10 .months I gotta say you gotta spend a couple extra bucks and go for the 450 for a 50cc firewood rated saw it cuts like an animal especially with a 15" narrow kerf bar and chain on it (came with an 18" narrow kerf X-force bar a d X-Cut chain on it , I run the same chain on my 16" bar and its an awesome chain cuts like a son a bitch even in dirtier wood which usually will give some saws and most chains a hard time. I've also owned a jonsered cs2245 which basically is a husqvarna 445 as far as the whole engine and rest of the mechanical parts are concered with the only real djfference being the top engine cover , pull start housing , main body, and clutch cover are all slightly different in shape and design as well as either black or red opposed to husqvarna's classis orange colored machines. I've had a bunch of.othrr husqvarna saws and they all treated me very very well as well as were very impressive regarding power output , reliability and comfort/feel while using them. Had 2 55 ranchers the once lasted almost 20 years before it got low enough in compression where the power output was lessened to the extent where it needed a piston and.ring , and gaskets obviously.
I made a tool to fit the clutch cover nut using a piece of welding rod bent to fit into the two small holes on the ratcheting nut. I can tighten it so it will not loosen without fear of breaking the flimsy folding handle.
707SonomaComa Thanks for asking, you gave us an idea for another video we can add to the channel. As for now here is how we get the best results from the tool-less chain tensioner as we do not see many failures out in the field. The too-less chain tensioner is a nice feature but some of the customers using them do not quite get the knack for the proper operation. When adjusting the chain after the bar and chain is properly on the saw, it pays to follow these few steps. Tighten down the main bar nut tight and back it out about 1-2 turns. Wiggle the bar as the chain is tensioned towards the (+) sign. Make sure the chain is snug tight by turning the dial firmly (+). When turning the dial it is a firm process, not like adjusting a sound dial on a speaker. Wiggle the bar as you are tightening. Then tighten down the main bar nut. Take a heavy rag and manually spin the chain carefully. Test the tension again. After a chain spins it may seat differently when finding its grove. Tighten again with the steps above if the chain is not on snug. Chains become loose over time naturally when cutting, but if you follow these steps and tighten “Firmly” then the Too-Less model can be a good feature.
crazy carb on them , 2 barrel style , they were made by Poulan for Husqvarna not bad saws I guess just watch fuel lines as they go bad and will trash carb
I'd never buy another one. Echo is a much better saw for the money. Just bought that little Echo trim saw, it cuts as well as my 440, and I can use it with one hand.
I have one of these. The 440 doesn't have adjustable oil feed that I recall. I find if the chain is not getting oil, the slot in the bar is usually gummed up and it's not immediately obvious. Same with the oil hole in the bar and the oil output slot in the saw body. Make sure it's all clean. I've also checked that the oil is flowing without the bar on the saw. Take the chain off and run a putty knife or pieces of cardboard down the slot. Something not very intuitive is that a chain that is not sharpened well enough will put out too much saw dust and not chips. The dust contributes to the slot getting gummed up much faster. I'd also say a sharp chain makes a huge difference in efficiency and safety on any saw but particularly with a smaller one. That said, i really like my 440. It is so light weight and easy to lug around. Seriously, if cleaning the slot fixes the problem but only for a short time, then you probably need to sharpen the chain and get a better idea of what a sharp chain feels like. I don't think it's as obvious as a sharp kitchen knife. good luck
Ive seen a few reviews of the 440 where the single bolt holding the bar tight comes lose ans the chain flies off. Does this seem to be a common complaint on the saw or is it just neglect on not making sure that the bolt is tight before operation? Also, saw many other reviews that the saw is very hard to get started or becomes very hard to start after a few uses. Is this common too qnd do you know anything about this or remedies? Thanks. Appreciate any feedback :)
How much bar oil do I put in my 440e? When I fill it up it just leaks all over the place. Am I over filling it? It’s brand new I can’t imagine anything being wrong with it
Mine seems to leak out too. You can't overfill it, well, what fits in the tank is okay. If you're storing it empty the oil tank, and run the fuel tank dry.
Bought this a year ago to clean up from a storm. After the initial start, it was VERY hard to start. Now I can't get it running less then a year later. I've adjusted the Carb/Throttle. There's 2-3 youtube videos about how terrible this model is. I would STRONGLY recommend spending the extra money on a Sthil.
I bought my 440 as a factory reconditioned unit from a mail order place.. I try to following the starting routine to the letter. I've had zero trouble starting mine. I generally use the expensive non-ethanol fuel but I don't think that's it. I think these things flood real easily. Cold start is pulling the switch out and up. Pull until it coughs once, then push the switch down to the run position and continue pulling. I've heard someone i respect saying, if you pull the handle more than 3 times with the choke still engaged .. i.e. in the start position.. it will flood. If it's been run and you're restarting it, no way i'd choke it. ps.. i used to keep premixed fuel around for a long time between saw uses and there's no way i do that anymore. your mileage may vary but, I've been real happy with mine.
My 440 cuts well and I use it frequently. It seems to be more difficult to start. I'm sure to use non-ethanol gasoline and the right fuel oil mix. I keep the spark plug clean of carbon. It takes several pulls to start, but it used to be very easy. My next effort will be to replace the plug, air filter and fuel filter. Is there anything else I can do?
When I try to pull the start on my 440, it feels like something is slipping and it is not turning the engine to start. Where should I start looking for the problem?
Technically that saw has the capability and power to pull an 18" bar and chain especially if it's a narrow kurf pixel bar and chain but I wouldn't ever run anything other than a 16" narrow kurf bar. The toolless chain tensioning system is a garbage design made for pussy retards who don't even know what kinda oil their car takes. 440 is an awesome saw for the price though I love those saws I've had a couple along with a few 135's and a 445 and many other husqvarnas over the years , model 41's , a 350, couple 55 ranchers , never had one let me down in the woods even once , literally never had a breakdown with any of them just kept up and was really honestly a freaken obsessive fanatic with my maintenance replacing maintenance parts even when I didn't have to just for the hell of it. Btw the owner of my local Husqvarna shop last year talked me out of buying another 440 and instead guided me to a 135 because he said he's had the engines and carbs apart down to every last piece on the 135, 435 and the 440 and said every single engine component has the same exact part number and all the parts are absolutely identical meaning that all 3 saws actually have the same output of 2.4hp, he said they just underrate the 135 and 435 for marketing purposes so they can have saws all through out the price range spectrum without actually having to design and build separate motors for 3 of the saws which saves them alot of money in production , just like the 445 and 450 they are literally identical except for the cylinder and piston , you can take any 445 and make it a 450 by simply installing the larger 450's cylinder and piston then of course readjusting your carb properly after the swap. Alot of manufacture's do stuff like this to save money in production lines, have you ever taken note of this fact? The 3 saws having the exact same motor and output that is? BTW why the hell did they change the new 135 mark 2 to a 38 or 39cc engine? Why the hell would they have done that instead of.leaving the long proven and.reliable ultra tough 40.7cc motor in it like the mark 1 version of the 135, isn't this new 38 or 39cc motor just s rebadged poulan engine basically? That's what I heard and they want more money for them too, yeah ok, I'll keep my 135 mark 1's and other saws thank you very much. Huge drop in power going from the 40.7cc which was 2.4hp to a 2.01hp 38cc.poulan piece of shit.
