Husqvarna 550xp Crank Case Bearings & Seals Replacement or "Dead Saw Salvage" series Video 

Yup, have an off the boat "swede" as my grandmother with an "accent". Added the "A" when I started racing Motorcycles way back in the 1970's as a goof on them as I was a "Maico" rider then....just stuck I'm afraid.

no

thank you Walt for your help

Craig Timmons pretty sure the pto side bearing is proprietary and only comes as nylon cage

Both flywheel and clutch side are proprietary. Both have similar dimensions to the 6202's, just the clutch side has an integral seal design to handle positive & negative pressure (from outside and inside ) and has a wider than 6202 width to accommodate that stronger seal. The flywheel side also has similar dimensions to a 6202 but has a longer inner race again for a sealing surface. Bottom line for us the only realistic option comes from Husqvarna...:(

afleetcommand before this video I hadn't seen a bearing with a longer inner race...interesting

Hey, I'm going to run one so I guess unless there is a definable reason not to...why not. I think that is a good bolt on mod concept.

Mk1's were hand grenades. Mk2's much better. IF you still see the MK2's blowing ...start looking for things within the support system :)

@@afleetcommand yeah the first generation would blow up in about a year and a half but the second generation lasted like 2 and a half years. But I dice a lot of brush so I’m assuming that puts a lot of stress on the saw. What’s your opinion on that matter?

Actually I do have a few thoughts on the matter :) First the 346's have 6202 steel caged bearings. Neither heat or time bother them as much as the new nylon's. I'm sick of the arguments about it , just time and time again I run into the old saws with steel 6202's that all they need it seals. Be it Stihl or Husqvarna, nylons on a saw designed to both run hot and high RPM's are going to see the bottom ends be the weak spot. Another factor is the rev boost and stuffer cranks. The 545 and 555 seemed to fair better in the earlier versions, and I'm pretty certain it's either because the non stuffer cranks let the bearing get more mix and possibly run cooler ( Not sure as I never measured as that hard to do ) and not having the 16k over boost helped as well. Remember the 346 didn't have that rev boost feature so never sees the RPMs a 562 or 550xp see's. AND since they are "Autotunes" you can't fatten up the mixture to bring the low load or no load RPM's down to enhance life. SO the 346 NEVER seeing the RPM's and having a more durable bearing selection means they will prolly last longer. How's that?

@@afleetcommand lol thanks for the explanation so what would be a good saw for dicing brush all day long? That’s not too much of a heavy saw. I put about 30 hours a week on saws. I just want a saw to last at least 3 plus years that won’t blow up I do expect to replace simple parts on it but not to rebuild the motor and split the case. I do remember them not Revving as high. I remember people taking rev limiters out of some saws and trying to put them in others to get higher revs. But I don’t get into all that stuff that often.

I would pick the 555 or even 545 before a 550 if brush is all it does. I would also move to .325 chain with a taller sprocket. Mix a little more oil and don't have it pinned 24 -- 7, just when full throttle is needed. Neither 555 or 545 have the rev boost, and they also don't have stuffer cranks. Bet they both cost less up front and last longer.

You will be quite happy with the 2260, on the Huztl stuff why not try the 036? I just got one in a box, actually the first kit saw like that for me. Really looks like a 066....just smaller. Might be more useful as well. I love my "built" 660's have a few. Each one required a different fix here and there. All work saws now.. Cheap fun but unless a person isn't afraid of having to solve issues, a frustration for others. A great education and project for not a lot of money in my mindset, others...will just be aggravated with the bits and pieces that won't work, some even beyond modification. SO depends on what you expect and are trying to accomplish...that will make these Huztl parts fun or a hassle.

afleetcommand Did you have any problems ordering or receiving your saw kits? They look like an awesome deal for a hobbyist I'm thinking about giving the 372 clone a try.

I didn't because I didn't order "kits" ! But to answer the question I recently ordered a 036 Kit and it showed up within a couple of weeks. My 660's are blends of parts from a couple of sources and are slightly different than the current on line crazed "Kit" saws. I haven't tried the 365, partly because it comes as an old square intake boot, open port 365 instead of the later closed port with a round intake pipe as you would want and expect....so you might be disappointed. The Stihl copy kits are quite a bit better from what I can tell.

Goes lean at idle....then won't come down from a high idle

I do, oem tools are cheaper, but cheaper yet is a short block. GO buy one and wrap your saw around the new ones. Is a much stronger bottom end with the updates , worth doing an a LOT easier. RETAIL on the short blocks is in the 200 range, a dealer working with you should be able to give you a great price. pn 580 66 37-12

LET me know you have read this so I can take it down, or I'll remove the message in 24 hours anyway

I use a turkey roaster if I can get all the plastic off. If I can't its a heat gun. AND the temperature needs to be in the 300-325 degree range for the bearings to drop in

same number coil as was on it before? might need to be flashed

@@afleetcommand same number. I slightly pinched blue wire and was arching on chassis.

@@Rob-tl9md Just saw a picture from a dude where that wire wrapped all into the flywheel. THAT would be a pita :) Simple fix maybe but a pita just the same. Often the dealers don't stock that wire, a trip to lowes and a little solder work is best.

@@afleetcommand the knick is so tiny. I may just try some liquid tape. If it acts up i know what the problem is.

It is actually too much air going in these saws EPA rules apply here, that make them run like a blow torch!

The pro saws are made in Sweden, some of the smaller home owner ones as well. BUT they are farming out parts and a couple of the home owner saws...even have a completely made in China offering within the corporate umbrella. But so do most of the competition. Makita certainly does, and Stihl has a all Chinese 250

@@afleetcommand I recently bought 2 x 395xp made in Brazil.

The first version of the 55o's and 562's ran hot. Created all kinds of issues. The 562's were "debugged" to the point they really are "OK" as they are delivered now. The 550's were redesigned and the MK2 version is one of the better offerings on the market today. The 572 is also a design as a result of the experiences gained with the early 550/562's. I have heard of NO issues with the 550 MK2's and new 572's. Another thing to consider is all the manufacturers have had to "evolve" their product lines to meet newer government regulations. Husqvarna was at the forefront and had to work through the designs....they are ahead in my most humble opinion as compared to the other offerings. Won't be afraid of either the MK2 or 572.

@@afleetcommand thanks for fast reply. my budget is about 550xp mk2 or 560xp, they are at same price in here. 572 is 400€ more. i dont know about 560 if its still worth the same money if 550 mk2 is latest version and comes right behind 560 performance. any idea if all 560s that were in official dealers had got "debug" and fixed these issues with engines? PS. is 560 and 562 same saw? i only have 560 in market, no 562 here in my country.

As on Stihl's? Guess that could help with the radiant heat, why not? Good idea..:)

eBay or HLSupply has Husqvarna shop tools

@@afleetcommand Thank you so much for the good information.

Crank Stuffers are about reducing the volume in the cases to increase primary compression. Tends to help at the higher RPM range...:) Remember the 562's have the "Rev Boost" function to allow them to momentarily bounce to 16,000 for limbing operations. Pulling the stuffers out changes the way that saw pumps mix through and will change the power characteristics. A 555 is a saw with essentially the same basic top end without crank stuffers and a slightly smaller x-sectional area in the transfers ports via. a smaller "cap" . Brings the power down a little but really is about bringing WHERE the 555 makes power to a little lower RPM. Some speculate the 555 w/o stuffers hasn't had as many issues because the stuffers interfere with lubrication of the mains...keeping things cooler down there. I don't know if I agree, although the operating RPM's are a little less. Just something your probably going to hear as you research those saws..:)

@@afleetcommand great explanation Walt. I must try researching at home tonight.. I was told about the new stihl 500i have you viewed any on RU-vid or experienced one first hand???

@@nickywalsh8492 No haven't seen those new Stihl's

Hi walt...I've re-read the msg so it'll sink in😊....primary compression is a topic I've been overlooking. Basic understand got me by all along "piston comes down case pressure increases fuel exits up transfers"... Do you see stuck in rings due to carbon a lot?? Is carbon build up more common at 50:1 mix than at 32:1 (just curious) ....u'll end up telling me to get lost😊

@@nickywalsh8492 I hardly ever see build up on my saws, customer saws? yep, but never really know for certain what they were running for oil mix.

www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/poulan/525434201

Matthew Olson this is the same part # PTO bearing I received from Jacks for my 575xp and it is a nylon caged bearing made by SKF.

Craig Timmons the funny thing is the part number for husky is $30 and the poulan part # is $20.... they and probably the same part lol.

+Matthew Olson You are absolutely right I called Jacks and the rep told me they are the same part # just in a different package with the same part # and some times they have 3 or 4 different #'s for the same part all for different amounts of money. I always purchase the cheapest priced number and have always received what I needed. How funny is it that if you don't get sucked into the Psych game you can actually save money.

Craig Timmons rockin....tx for following up on that

No change, same stuff, but the new "mkII" versions recently released are a significant upgrade over the first generation 550's

afleetcommand thanks for the reply, really enjoy your videos, I’m also from NY ,a small town called champlain up in the corner of Vermont and Canada

@@afleetcommand I got a 550xp Mark II as well, on the side plate is stamped 2018... So I wonder if the 2018 version is the exact same as the 2021 version selling right now.

Husqvarna Dealer.

If that oil is bar oil you need to split the cases and replace that gasket. There should be a "film" of oil every where if you are using a good two stroke oil at the right mixture, but it shouldn't "pool" up in there. So whats a "lot of oil" mean to you? Early cases from the 2012-2013 era had the case screws back out so they changed the spec to a "black oxide" coating to reduce the chances of that. What year was that saw built is a question that might point to an issue.

afleetcommand it 2012 model

afleetcommand do you have idea from where I can buy that tool to split the crank case in Uk?? Thanks

@@florind4906 From a Husqvarna dealer or sometimes they show up on eBay. My suggestion? See if your dealer still has the "cases/crank" short block we had here for a while at a reasonable cost. The new cases solved a LOT of issues. Even if it's just the standard set...but yes, getting the crank out will required the unique puller they sell or something similar. I never tried to use the "huztl" Stihl based puller on a 562. Would probably work on the PTO side, then heat would get the crank out of the flywheel side ....and it doesn't matter if it comes out ugly is you are getting new cases.

@@florind4906 www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-575286901-Case-Splitter-Puller-Jonsered-Chainsaws-545-550-555-560-562/123949951163?hash=item1cdbfe28bb:g:vu8AAOSwY8ZdsIHb

That is a really interesting idea. I would just send some if that was a real possibility

afleetcommand what's the measurements on those bearings inner outer and width there's only like three main manufacture of bearings well at least that are worth a crap

afleetcommand went to The Parts House like 5 years ago ask for a roller bearing for a axle 190 bucks call McGuire's $9 I bought 5 of them same numbers same thing exactly

Depends on how many parts you want to replace...but the short answer is not easily. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kYVTpW4KPX8.html

afleetcommand I want to replace crank case only, because I can not find 560xp crank case. Thanks

@@florind4906 Might have better luck finding a Jonsered 2260. Also the 555 and 2258 have the same cases, just different cranks. The 560 and 2260 have stuffer cranks while the 555 and 2258 have none stuffer cranks. AND u can't just add stuffers to a non-suffer cranks as the width from bearings to bearing is different.

afleetcommand thanks for that, but you know the cylinder is the same?? Thanks

All the cylinders from the 555, 2258, 562, 560,2260 interchange. Actually the things that don't from model to model are either related to the small mount vs. large mount case geometry, stuffer vs. none stuffer cranks, or top covers. ( air filters etc. ). I pretty much go through all of that in the video. Maybe time for another one.

As compared to the 200 and 300 series Husqvarna's....550/562 and new Stihl's are about the same. BTW have this book "Scottish Clans", and your surname is described in there a bit..:) Yup...about right. You really would add value to your world with a well thought out 242, 268,or 372....over anything else you have expressed serious praise about, especially a 361..:) Maybe I'll send one down at some point in the future,

Going to fold in some Autotunes & CST analysis, something I realize is a somewhat miss understood topic..Bob enlightened me, then started using the thing and IF and the key is if, you have the fundamentals understood, that CST can really be a help. IF you are looking for a Pinocchio game style path to a solution, it will disappoint. Video's in process.....

Looking forward to learning :)

no

555 is the same as a 2258, 560 and is essentially a small mount version of the 562 class saw. First gen 550's and 545's were their own deal. My suggestion on those if you get it running.... sell it and get the Mk2 version :)

I have a 2260 been looking for a case but can't seem to find one I guess I'm going to have to get a 555 case and paint it red or silver. What type paint works best

yup, 555 is the same case. Different crank though. I guess you could wrap the 2260 around a 555 short block, just won't have the stuffer crank. OR bust down the 555 cases and build it back with new bearings and seals...and the stuffer 2260 crank I did a whole series on those essentially from the bearings up. Problem I had with a lot of the "used" 2260 cases was the bearing pockets were beat out of them. I eventually did what you are considering, got a 555 short block from the dealer and put the 2260 crank in built it up from there

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6OAMgtw7H8g.html

www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-chainsaw-Crankshaft-puller-bearing-service-Tool-550-562-Case-splitter/302943937468?epid=20012974635&hash=item4688dda3bc:g:AyUAAOSwDX5b3Nml:rk:1:pf:0

Thank you very much. And I have a question why do you shoot with this bolt bearing better to enter and when you can put this sealant from the magnetic circle and how many degrees warm up the karter. He attests very much for the answer. Kamil Poland

I'm sorry the translation didn't give a clear question...

I mean the sealer that goes into the bearing separately I buy it myself when it is best to put it after mounting the shaft in the bearing or after mounting the bearings on the karter and Why Pan Blow the bearing to the shaft and what you use the gasket for the crank paste can be gray dirko up to 300 degrees to how many degrees did you warm up the karter?

Still not certain of the question, I use Three Bond 1184 on all surfaces. It's been used in the Automotive and Motorcycles industries for decades...the Japanese companies. Some use Dirko, I only use Three Bond. Period..:) I think you are asking about the crank seals? I usually install them after assembling cases as a rule unless there is a very strong reason not to. And for the temperature difference between crank & bearings/case to assemble cases? With the pullers supported on the INNER race of a bearing, I just pull with no heating. If you HAVE to support the puller on the outer race of the bearings or the cases, its worth warming the case/bearings and chilling the crank to lower the force required to pull the crank through the bearings. A 100 degree Fahrenheit is usually enough if you are using the pullers not to damage anything.

I'm actually working for a dealer. So its true anything relative to CST has to be through a dealer. And I've pretty much made a policy that the work I do goes through that dealer. If you are local, let me know through the messaging and I will point you to them to get to me. If your not, the point of these video's is to show the process. The Mechanical side can be done at home, and this hopefully would encourage folks to get a relationship with their dealer. The ones around here will for a nominal fee do the CST interface & let you see the feed back. Flash the carb too. ALSO the purpose of these video's is to GET the dealers to start engaging with CST and their customers more! Two dealers I'm familiar with just avoided that for what I don't know why. And really let the entire brand languish. Hurt everyone. Dealer and the brand. But you asking means the message is getting out there...:) Please engage with your local dealer for the CST type questions. And I will help them on the CST if needed (The Husqvarna Tech Folks are way better then I, he SHOULD go there first!) and certainly help you with the mechanical questions and issues through this media.

I do, but really for Husqvarna the OEM tools are cheapest and best. HLSupply sells them. My tools are a better alternative to the Stihl shop tools working on Stihl saws with Husqvarna style case assembly / fitting tools. While I do build them for Husqvarna, it's usually for the older and hard to find sizes like the 1/2-13 LH for old 61-272's and for old L77's and even into the 281/288 years. So for the later that 2000's era Husqvarna's and especially the 500 series, find the OEM tools :)

@@afleetcommand ok thanks. Just been on disability and trying to find something to do