Just an eclectic collection of stuff that make this life style possible. Plan to build video's increasing in quality as I learn this medium. Old dog, New trick and all that rot. I will focus on things around the farm and hope to use this as a way to capture life experience to pass along to my kids, grand kids, (and friends too) while I still can. All from an "end user" perspective vs. as an expert selling stuff. I'm just an old man still living life. Hope you enjoy! Area's of focus: 1) Chainsaws and the related subjects such as logging, fire wood, and general farm work that required a chainsaw. 2) Historical firearms. Starting with Mosin Nagants. 3) 1970's and older (but useful) Tractors & Implements.
If I can get back to health, dirt bikes from the 1970's thru year 2000. The years I raced motocross, and cross country both with current of the time and vintage motorcycles.
Sorry, but most of you guys are simply filling in the blanks with your imaginations. Dealers closing is an industry wide problem. Not confined to Husky by any means. Large stihl dealer near me will be going out next year. Reasons? Retirement, health, in some cases death. Big upstate ny dealer closed in large part due to a divorce settlement that made staying in business a waste of effort. Long time dealer/friend of mine just had a stroke. Another reality is that unless most of these shops have a family member in line to take over the business, they will likely close, as it is very difficult to sell them. Think about some of these things next time you visit you local shop. How long will they be around? Kinda sad really.
Great video. I picked up a 99 husky 261 today. Never had one before so I figured I'd look n see if anybody had a tinkering video. I'm a chainsaw carver out of Otter Lake NY
@@afleetcommand okay so I watched the video. It shows nothing what you did to get the carburetor impulse back. I know they don't run without some kind of channel there. I was just wondering what you do
Shouldn't have to do anything. The casting on the case has a clearance to the pulse hole on the cylinder. Decking the cylinder doesn't loose the hole, if anything it can make it larger as if impinges on the "turn" that port takes as it goes from the case to the intake. If you feel the need divot the case a little more. Or die grind a slot in the case to match a slot in the cylinder flange. But u really shouldn't need to do a thing
@@afleetcommand I was doing one a few weeks ago. It was a gasket delete and it would not run. I put a vacuum gauge in the impulse hole on the cylinder. Pulled it over and it would not even bounce the needle. I disassembled the saw and noticed that there was no passage at all for it to get an impulse. I put the gasket back in it and it ran perfect
could have blocked the passage with what ever goo gasket u used, but if you have to die grind a groove it's not the end of the world either, do that on some of the 346/350 blends
Yah it’s a lil warm here too ! 😂I’d wager that saw wood mill more efficiently with a ps63 picco chain. A .404 sprocket ⚙️ turned down to the diameter of a P-7 (make a jig that goes in lathe chuck and indicate the sprocket ⚙️ before cutting) will take care of the “drive” and then you would need a bar/chain. Thinking about running this setup on a 562xp to buck rounds - already have the sprocket turned and tested with 16” STIHL picco bar and chain and it definitely cuts noticeably quicker than the 3/8 .050 chassis (smaller kerf less hp/torque required) and is a very quick 5 minute swap to go from the ps 63 to the standard 3/8 and vice versa … The only issue is finding a 3/8 picco lo pro 20” bar at an affordable price … Cannon barworks makes a “supermini” narrow kerf 20” bar but they are quite expensive to your door. The only drawback is perhaps chain stretching / link strap fatiguing breaking over time but the only way to know is to try it out. I think you mentioned in a video you were going this route in the old man saw but I may be wrong
What brand of saw mill are you using? The lightning bolt was awesome, I haven't seen to many this year. Keep up the great videos and God bless you and your family.
If there are no seal leaks does that necessarily mean the bearings are still good (proviso being that there is no play in the crank and everyrhing rotates smoothly)? I'm about to put a new piston and cylinder on my 2011 562xp which I cooked many years ago; I found now debris in the cases (washed out) only some aluminum paste from scoring of the piston (exhaust side). Folks like you have motivated me to repair this thing: I have a new 562xp MK II and want a good backup saw hence my quest to repair the old one).
Found one of this in the dumpster yesterday and I decided to take it with me to try it out, I tough I'll take it back 🙂again, but nope, I've tried to start it when I got home and started imediatly, even faster then my newer Stihl! I don't understand why someone throws in the garbage something still god like this one....
More sophisticated for sure. More complex. I think the original edition 372 and stihl 044/460 are high water marks. Stihl 461 & husqvarna 572 & 585 as good as anything ever built
I use full skip only because it’s 2/3 less teeth to sharpen than full comp. I primarily use 24-32 inch bars and hand filing can take some time out of your day on your sharpening days with all those cutters
Many chainsaws feature “proprietary” nylon crank bearings which limits choice and we’re kinda stuck with them for now. IMHO the metal vs nylon bearing debate is another oil discussion 😂pros and cons: metal most likely lasting longer however more likely to cause catastrophic damage. The heat failure argument doesn’t pass muster with me as Nylon (Polyamide)can take 200c , which is 392 degrees Fahrenheit. The crankcase should NEVER be running anywhere near those temperatures! I keep the oiler maxed and a sharp chain and retouch with 3/4 strokes of the file after the chain is down to 85-90% of being freshly filed. If you mind the air filter/keep a sharp chain/ and do maintenance, a modern saw should give a long service life regardless of metal or nylon bearings. I’ve encountered those who could make something from seemingly nothing and then those who could break an anvil with a rubber mallet … I imagine the same goes for saws 🙈🙉🙊
Guess the point of this video is to dispel some of the bearing speculations. I have in 25 plus years only seen one metal bearing fail to where it came apart in the saw. Conversely I have seen dozens of the Nylons as you see here. So when folks say " metal will likely last longer but more likely to cause catastrophic damage" , I think my experiences put a lot of meat to the "last longer" there for worth the chance vs. the more likely to fail nylons. AND to say the more likely to cause catastrophic damage than nylon is categorically false. The higher failure rate along with dropping balls into a saw means the nylons are ore likely to fail AND ore likely to cause catastrophic failure. To me, the arguments is about rationalizations. The real benefit of the nylons is manufacturing cost and they do dampen vibrations some vs. the steep caged variants. To this day I think ( pure opinion on my part as they will never tell )Husqvarna was chasing a vibration issue on the xpw-s and xt's as witness to the rattle apart syndrome I was witness to on those saw in 2009-2010 time frame. the other "pure opinion" is they has a manufacturing issue in the machining or bearing installation process on the early XT's where there was an alignment issue loading the bearings and making them run hotter than normal. EVERY one i repaired by installing the steel 6202's far outlasted the OEM nylons AFTER the repair. So i see the rationalization for nylons and don't buy it. Hence the video. Also I do believe Husqvarna "fixed" a lot of the issues that generated excess heat and that is why now the 372's with nylons last as long as their predecessors. Point being nylons work if the environment/application stays within their design parameters and the saw runs smoother. Steels can handle more heat and wider design parameters. Both when the cages fail will dump bad things into the saw.
@@afleetcommand can’t really argue with someone with 25years experience - obviously (like so much in the saw world ) the conventional wisdom / repeated party line (re: the steel vs nylon crank bearing cages discussion) is incorrect. Fortunately I’ve never had a saw puke its bearings into the crankcase / firing chamber … so far. I have seen them worn / crusty though and just replaced them along with the seals. Dirt ingestion over time or high hours. Then we can get into the whole high-compression / machined “pay ME to build YOUR saw” internet world and draw parallels between bearing “life” and THAT particular build style. There is a mathematical correlation between bearing life/load applied. More /higher than stock compression is going to cause the bearings to fail sooner and if we are stuck with nylon caged crank bearings (that’s not even including the big / small end bearings which will Really take a beating with higher compression) for saws maybe it’s best to keep the compression stock or use a thinner base gasket to get what you want (lowered intake , slightly more compression efficiency ) on your saw build IF you want increase power while also maintaining fuel economy and longevity! I seem to consistently arrive around 23-28% gains in cut speed in the timber using intake / piston / flow porting and exhaust mods (piped can or better yet a rowdy pipe (loud)) and get good fuel mileage and longevity. I can definitely build them hotter/faster and get even more cut speed but it’s not worth the loss of longevity / fuel economy and the introduction of possible catastrophic failure. Seems to me like there is a “sweet spot” where you get more performance, mileage is good and longevity is there. Straying into the tall weeds by using “race saw” build techniques (high compression, excessively widened intake/exhaust ports to get more time/area “squaring” the top of exhaust port (good way to snag a ring and grenade a top end )) and a whole host of other “razors edge” type mods)) on a “work saw” isn’t going to end well if the person paying you for services receives a ticking time bomb 💣 … IF it’s YOUR saw and you wish to experiment to see how fast you can make it go then by all means knock yourself out … Just be aware that you’ve now built a “toy” NOT an everyday worksaw. AFAIK we are stuck with these proprietary nylon cage bearings - yes you can replace one side with metal cage but not both. I could be mistaken here but I cannot find a “source” that will supply metal cage vs nylon cage replacement for BOTH bearings. From my research the pto bearings are nylon caged “proprietary” and NO metal cage option exists. The only Husqvarna saws I’ve come across that DID NOT have a proprietary pto nylon caged bearing were the 372xp and the 395xp. Ok enough yappin gotta go cut up some wood 🪵
I thought you were done with making hay but then there's always headlands small little paddocks and such that the grain guys don't want mess with I guess, looks like it came off in pretty nice condition.
I've removed many a crank seal only to find a degraded or broken nylon cage :( the bigger problem has been Husqvarna's proprietary bearings with the built in seal. A proper tune, good mix oil and proper saw maintenance goes a long way in keeping the bearings alive regardless of what kind is in the saw. Not sure exactly what bale spear you have setup on your bucket but I have the same JD loader and bucket, lifting 4x4 round bales like that with my bucket completely destroyed it, granted mine has handled many thousands but they flex the steel in the bucket every time eventually breaking it pretty spectacularly.
It's a 2750 and has been doing that with those bakes since 2004 :) I also have a two spike setup where I get two at a time. Just that's a little heavy so I don't use it
@@afleetcommand I started using mine to move round bales in 1993, in 2005 the bucket developed a couple cracks at the seam on the bottom at the back, I welded them up and the next season it cracked again and broke the cutting edge to the left of where the bale spear sits over it. Welded it several times after to get by until it finally gave out unloading bales one evening. Not saying it doesn't work and maybe yours will last another 20 years, just sharing my experience with it. One thing I did like about it mounted on the bucket was the reach it had over the one I use now on my loader with a quick attachment, but the visability without it on the bucket, especially for loading pickups is alot nicer without the bucket.
point is I have both. I use the dedicated twin spike arrangement when I'm set up for hay. I use the bucket mount when I do periodic "help" tasks now as I'm retired from the heavy hay production.
You are right about these things not wearing out. I used to work at a mill where we had a 1999 Special powering a chainsaw winch. We used it for pulling miles of box link and drag chain onto conveyors... hard pulls, way longer than any wood cutting scenario, and generally used without mercy. We broke the winch quite a few times, but as of 2018 the powerhead was still doing its job.
As long as the threaded hole isn’t tooooo wallowed out I’ve had excellent results using heli-coil thread repair kits if you want to use the same stock bolt. I highly doubt that damaged thread was from the factory though - someone goofed up somewheres probably the same guy that butchered the “deck job” - those Torx are in there very robustly , matter of fact I ended up stripping the torx head on one of my 562xps and had to grind it off to get the muffler off - no biggie just replaced with a new bolt - a little warmth with the heat gun prior to removal seems to go along way - must be a special Husqvarner loctite they put on there ! Never vibrate out on a million years from the factory 😂
So, is the piston skirt catching the exhaust port on these particular decked saws Walt? A few years back I put together my own junk pile saw - it is what led me to your channel first. Its a Stihl 038 super. It has a couple of heli coils in place and it also gained a plate held in place by drive rivets to cover a broken section of the case - not structural. It looks rougher than it runs and cuts. I keep an old bar and a near end of life chain on it. If I get some dirty wood to cut or something I think might have metal in it, I don't hesitate to grab that saw. It owes me now't.
Nice job of bringing back to life another dead saw, they don't have to be new to cut a lot of wood many cords of cutting ahead for a saw like that yet. Thanks for making these "you can do it to" type of videos, even if that's not your intent it's there for people if they pay attention and want to learn.
