Never seen or heard of that high speed reset procedure. When it stops raining I have to try it. Thanks Walt and Bob Great info as always Most recent addition to Collection is Jonsered 2165
I flooded mine the other day on a hot restart. Couldn’t remember the proper was to do it. Today when using saw, it would bog thru the cut, and then speed up near end. Going to try your high reset when it ever stops raining and see if that works. Also going to study how to do a hot restart.
Thanks for this Walt and Bob, I was going to ask if you could do this some time to clarify the situation, now it's done by 2 people I trust so thanks for taking the time to do this and for all yer help,cheers, John
Good video. I also shut them down as soon as I hear them surge the slightest bit(I do this with all saws though), rather than running them completely empty, which helps restarting starting them.
Right, im not going to complain about the world going forward. But im sticking to my old guns as long as I can. My 346xp and 372xp Farmertec. Hi from Scandinavia
My 555 had the exact same issue the other week, Infact the tune was so bad everytime I blipped the throttle it would die. My local shop told me about the long cut field reset. I didn't know about the idle set
Afternoon gentlemen, love the channel and videos. Recently giving some strong thought to purchasing a 562 (A want not a need😁) especially after watching you both for months. Question 1, I run 40:1 mix on all my saws. Is this any concern for the Autotune and Warranty of the saw? Question 2 it looks as though rev boost was eliminated on the new saws can you confirm.
This is completely off topic of this video but you are the man that could do good content on this topic. The 070 clone saws. You have built viable 372 and 660 clones. There is a bunch of content on both builds. No one has good content of the big 070 clones. They could be great saws for a occasional big stump or running a mill if they are worth the time and money. Not much content out there
Not gonna happen- most of these RU-vidrs are dealers or have relationships with dealers or are sponsores (you get the drift.) Their job is to promote dealer sales and service, not to promote knock-offs and oversee non EPA saws that cost much less...
Thanks for demonstrating this guys👍🏻 Question: do you think the manufacturers err on the side of caution (fatter tunes) when developing the firmware for automatic carbs? I know this technology has come a long way, but the variables seem so wide while tuning a 2 stroke.
Not certain if that is possible as the mixture is varied to get to certain RPM's below 1/2 throttle and to max RPM's at almost to full throttle. There for the RPM requirement drives the mixture vs. the "old" way where you tune a carb and that drives the RPM's and power.
@@afleetcommand I appreciate the feedback. I love my old school iron, but for a production environment, I’d be crazy not to provide my crew AT/MT saws. No guess work...correct digital control over what had always been strictly mechanical.
First I heard of this .. I have a 555 .. bought new in 2014 . I use it summer and in winter, from elevations from 2000ft up to 6-7000Ft .. and it always starts right up and idles nicely .. and has good power when needed . So when , or why would I need to do this reset ?
Walt and Bob very usefull info. Could you guys expand on what Bob said about the idle set and the log set. After letting the saw idle for that specified time she is set for low tune? The extended log cut, is this at part throttle or are you cutting at full speed? Thanks.
Start it, use hi idle to get it running , once it cleans up a little, take it off high idle by "blipping" the throttle....let it sit there for 3 minutes and it will both adjust to idle at the defined RPM, then also after that period of time change the "setting" for low speed. On the high speed, do as Bob did at full throttle for around 45 seconds. It "tuned" in 20 as you heard, then at some point it will set the high at the right number. Pretty simple procedure.
For now my focus is on the Autotunes with a few L77's mixed in. We "wander" from saw to saw. Might get to 200's again, we certainly have content for those over the years. Never know., its what ever we decide at a given point in time. And I have no way of predicting.
I guess it depends as I never really needed to. I bring this forward for those who may have other issues that had Autotune moving to a lousy place and need to bring it back after a fix or change.....fast. But I actually can't remember since 2013 or 14 where it was really something I would have needed to do on my saws. Have never done that with my 565 for example.
It’s may explain why my gz 5000 still run the same after the new carb. Dealer didn’t told me that way. He told me 2 min on fast idle then 2 min of WOT cookies cutting
I have a 545 m2 that hesitates off idle. I have about 10 tanks run through it and still have the poor acceleration issue. Would this reset help with that or just the high end? Also, love this channel! Thanks for the great content.
Hi, I have an xp 560, I can't reset... it is necessary: -start and let it run for 3 minutes at trottle 0 - then, when I cut, trottle maxi? trotting 3/4? how long time? 45sec, 1minute...?? Thank you
Yup full throttle with a load so it doesn't over rev, a normal cut RPM for 45 seconds will do the trick. OR blow it up one, either way you will learn something
@@afleetcommand cool thanks I litterally just autotuned my 550xp today its my first husky so I was hesitant about the autotune but I guess I just had to grow a set and give er
Every dealer has their own price, I got mine for under $1000 with bar and chain. Best to go and have a chat with a Husqvarna dealer. And going that route there will be a warantee.
@@afleetcommand thanks. the husky dealer near me no one wants to deal with. we have a stihl dealer thats a real jerk and hardly has any business he took over from a older guy who was always swamped with work this guy has announced that he will be closing may 2023. wonder why.
Most don't have to. It's one of those things where if it isn't broke , don't fix it. USUALLY if the saw is run often OR is run in the same season where there aren't huge swings in temps & atmospheric conditions it will prolly never need a reset. In fact none of mine really needed one either. But as Bob shows once in a while one will have something happen to throw off the settings for a given day and here is a way to solve that.
I just picked up a 545 and first couple of cuts were ok -- but then it appeared the chain went really dull -- I filed the chain then tried again and did a couple of cuts and and started going dull again. I was cutting a 15 inch diameter log - and the chainsaw bogs down in the middle - no way it is cutting anything like your chainsaw in your video is cutting. Is there anything special I have to do to use the chainsaw properly?
Kind of hard to diagnose from afar. My "cut" is to get a good chain and learn to finesse it to maximize what the saw can do. Most of my saws are 70cc and more where as a 545 is in the 50cc class. Need displacement to cut like mine. My 562's run like a 70cc stock saw too.
@@afleetcommand thx for the info - on the box it said it was for heavy use - so I assumed it would handle large trees. Don't remeber seeing a cc size on it. But in the end figured out my problems. I saw another video that indicated that the 545 has as auto tune carburetor and that a runf down a log with the saw would cause the adjustment to tune properly. Once I did that it worked properly. Also - I am cuttng ash trees and did not real;ize they are hardwood - which makes it understandable why they are a bit more difficult to cut.
Information. Sawing with a dull chain is hard work for the saw. A shap saw will have less work. Since work load has a limit because of the system. System here means a 50ccm 3hp saw will run a 38cm sword and be happy. BUT when you try to cut with a dull chain the load will go up at +- a good guest 40% Any work producing system has its limits that why there are so much motor sizes saws on the market. On a 545 a 50cm sword is max what should be used, as it is written in the great book "the manual" When you saw is sharp warm and tuned in it shlou be able to cut a 50cm log almost with no problems. When there is a lack of power check compression first and then anything else. When compression is good go over to the transmission. Those are the most crucial system there are are to check. When those both are running good fuel- or oilsystem could be unhappy. I had a saw once with to little oil giving to the chain the saw had been slowed down from the friction at the sword. And the sword got slithly blueish... There are many autotune clips. We let the saws run 6min without load and then ramp the workload full up. Cutting deep in a stem for at least 90sec then the adjustments are done. Remember a chain has to be sharp because high friction needs high workforce from the system and when that is out of whack the saw will kills it self because it is malfunctioning.
