In this episode we'll look at a Husqvarna T435 chainsaw with the complaint that it won't start. I'll show you how to diagnose and replace the ignition module in this top handle chainsaw. #smallenginerepair
Nice I Just Worked on One The Other Day Was Dropped In a Lake It Survived Got all The Water Out and Flooded It With 2Stroke Oil and Then Mix it’s Running Like a Champ Now 😀
So Scott, I recently got ahold of a Husqvarna 455 Rancher for repair. Customer complaint is it won't start. Looked like it sat for a few years but seemed to be in decent shape. It has spark and compression. Drained the old fuel. Cleaned the carb which was in seemingly good condition. Primer bulb appears to be functioning properly. Put in fresh fuel and I can't get it to burp or anything. Any ideas? Your input would be valued and appreciated bud.
I'm curious if the spark plug gets wet? Two things come to mind. Is the spark arrestor screen plugged or the exhaust port? Is the flywheel key sheared? Both of these things will prevent it from starting.
Great diagnostic and ignition coil replacement video. The spark tester looks good. I just shot you an message regarding a collaboration. Maybe you could check that?
Great video. Thank you. Are these T435 much worse as T540 class or are they ok for a home use, so not everyday pro use? And i have one more qustion please if you have time to answer, please. Can a chainsaw get a little bit leaner when it gets hot? I noticed (by ear only, dont have a tachometer-must buy one) with my chainsaw, when it gets hot it seems a bit leaner then when its cold or warm. I have to turn out high jet about 1/8 of a turn or just a bit more. Then its ok. Otherwise the saw starts ok, restart is ok, hot start is ok, runs ok, idles ok, maybe just a little bit of a bog from idle to full throttle. I tried to dial the low jet, but it seems that if i turn it out it gets rich on low side, then turn it in and it gets lean and there is that small bog of idle. Im making really small adjustments, just cant get it just in the right spot. Spark plug looks ok (spark), air filter clean, always fresh gas mix, used brake cleaner to look for air leaks and didnt find any. Dont know, its been like this for about 2 years atleast and the saw always work. Summer, winter everytime. It doesnt seem it wants to "blow up", hehe. I did rebuild the carb, except for the needle and fine mesh filter. Maybe i should try changing the needle to, but the old one has a rubber tip, and the new one has a metal one i think. So dont know if its ok. Im a bit suspicious about the coil and the metering needle (maybe slight gas/mix leak past it). The spark looks a bit blue and yellow-ish. As far as i know blue spark is ok, yellow not ok. And i must have the spark gap set a bit closer than factory (0.5mm (0.020 in). Mine is set about 0.4mm. If not it seems to start a bit more difficult, and it runs a little more rough. Its a super old Sachs-Dolmar 112, made in 1984 i think (its older than me). Never had any problems. I bought it used but from Husqvarna dealer, they said its been serviced and all. I guess it was, i looked inside before i bought it and there really was a new piston in it. I have beenn running it for bout 7 or 8 years now. Well it sure served its price many times over. So i cant complain. Anyway this is a super long post, sorry for my rumbling. Dont know if this makes any sense. Thank you and looking forward to new videos.
We have seen some low budget tree companies use 4 series saws like the T435 with great success so I don't think you need to worry if using at home. As for the Dolmar, some of the things you said you didn't do could certainly contibute to running issues. There are so many possibilities that for me to guess would be useless. For example, if a tank vent is bad and the saw starves for fuel, you think its running lean, and it is. You then stop and adjust the carb and during the time it took to get a screwdriver the tank pressure recovers. Now the saw will run right but you put a 1/8 turn on a screw and figured you fixed it. I only tell this story because I've seen it. Also, I'm wondering if you need to add an 1/8 turn every time you use it? After 4 uses you're out half a turn or is there adjustments being made after each cold start?
Thanks for answering. I know its very hard to diagnose problems if you dont have the saw in front of you. As for the carb adjustments i only have to do it after each cold start. So when the saw gets hot i adjust it 1/8 of a turn out. But when it cools down or its cold, i have to turn the jet back in 1/8 of a turn or its too rich if i dont do it. Anyway i appreciate all the help, i know it could be many things like you said, maybe even the carb could be worn out after 39 years of use (its still factory original BING 48). I will keep playing with the saw mostly because i enjoy working on them. It gives me pleasure, also love cutting with them. And except that problem the saw is running good and strong. Thank you Scott @@TheGreasyShopRag
Are you liking that spark tester with more use? One thing I do is use my VOM to check resistance between coil and the pads. Need to watch again after work.
I like the spark tester, it seems to do a good job of telling if there is spark but it can't test jumping a big gap. You only know you have spark but don't know how strong. I know I should be testing coil body ground to block but for some reason I don't always do it.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I don’t either. You can tell when it’s needed. With all the plastics I use a plug and bend the ground out. Also use an alligator clip around the plug’s threads and the other to metal.
@@tomasznumrych7187 Electricity needs a completed circuit to flow. For example, a battery doesn't just have current flowing out of the positive post and zapping everything in sight but current will flow if you connect a wire across both posts. Its the same with an ignition coil. Current wont jump the plug gap to ground if that coil isn't connected to ground, thus completing the circuit. Does that help?
NO, that is NOT enough for you to have for us! What is wrong with Husqvarna and their coil or the suppleir of their coils. That appears to be a new saw! I have a 572XP that did not get through 4 gallons of fuel mix with its coil. Not very confidence inspriting given a part that should be rate to fail/
That was an excellent question. I've never had to do one of these before, and this module actually cost 40 dollars, Which is much higher than other coils. I wanna make sure I do it right... the saw itself cost me 330 new, 40 dollars is 10 percent of cost new. And with a new spark plug at 6 dollars and a Feeler gauge at 5, plus dielectric grease at 3, 54 dollars total to do the repair like a boss. 54/330 means that I just paid 16 percent of the tool price without adding in tax. I've also had to replace the knob on the housing for the air filter, that was 15 dollars. Fuel filter and primer bulb, 12 dollars believe it or not. I've spent 81 dollars on repair parts and it's only 3 years old. And that's not counting chains and bars, of course. After the ignition module, then it's the chain oiler adjustment knob which broke off. That one comes next. I tell ya what though, this thing is agile. As a guy who prides himself on the condition of his tools even though he can barely afford em, I really appreciate the nearly free guidance on the problems that are common to them.
