Here's a quick down and dirty of how you can perform your own monthly and 6 month maintenance. Its super easy and you can save $100-200 by doing it yourself. Follow us on: Instagram - / arclight_addicts TikTok - / arclightaddicts
The filter tends to be the common root cause or some that don’t run a filter at all. What happens is that dust passes through the system and ends up getting caught up in the condensation that drains out and that causes the clogs. When a filter is too dirty, the suction will bend the filter and air passes around it. There are other instances of clogged drains or float switch issues such as improper pitch in the drain line, too much flow and not enough diameter in the pipe, and also issues with the drain pain holes getting clogged with buildup.
my man absolutely saved me. It is HOT HOT here in Florida it was 109 this afternoon and my AC went out. I couldnt get maintence over to my unit till tomorrow and I lifted my cap and sure enough it was full of water.... I dont have a wet vac so I syphoned all the water out and sure enough with in 30 minutes blowing cool water. I feel like a million bucks and I get to look like a big man and fix it and now instead of waiting for maitence, my girl was happy.
People like you are seriously Heaven-sent. I thought I was gonna have to pay a service tech a bunch of money for something you did in like 2 minutes. Thank you!
My thermostat went blank. Glad I checked this video out before calling someone. Turns out it was the overflow switch. Very easy fix and saved me 100 bucks. Thanks mate!
Excellent video. Thank you. Regular maintenance like this not only saves us money, but also tech’s time, which allows for people with serious problems to get service quicker. Basic preventative maintenance in all things is good, when it’s possible to do it.
Saved me some money and a service call and some great advice to service my system. Two story house and noticed some water leaking out of the ac/heat unit from upstairs. Had this happen a few years back and I remember the guy out and unplugging drain hole. I went up there and like a complete moron went at it with a coat hanger after taking the cover off and cleaning it out. Button everything back up and nothing. Didn't have a problem with the unit working until I meddled with it. The one switch the coat hanger was near was the Safe-t-switch in your video. After watching your video I went back up and sure enough, the black piece was now dettached. I fiddled with it and sure enough... paydirt..as soon as I put the black piece back on the safe-t-switch the unit came to life. Thank you for this simple and very informative video.
Very well done, sir...we are recent retirees to southwest Florida. Hot, nasty and humid air. We experienced the float issue which killed power to unit. Called neighbor who does A/C and he got us up and running after a huge snot clog vacuumed out. Luckily, at minimal cost. I am now subscribed to your channel so I can keep up on the refresher of what to do. Confident we are now on the right track for monthly/semi annual maintenance. Thanks for helping many folks who may have thought their only option was to call a repair company costing hundreds of dollars for something easily done at home!
👋🏽😃✔This is PRECISELY WHAT I FACED. The filter on this inside unit is NEWS TO ME, TOO!!! No one ever told me it existed or handed me a maintenance list when I purchased my condo. Now, I'm your newest fan and subscriber! Thank you for sharing this incredible information. Your video is an eye opener and a head turner for me.✔✔🙏🏽🇺🇲🙏🏽🇺🇲🙏🏽✌🏽
You just saved me a late night call for repair - just used the shop vac to clear the line bc the power kept shutting off. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍🏽
This is amazing, thank you. My house and system is just under two years old. I’ve always regularly poured white distilled vinegar down into the drain line. Yesterday, my entire thermostat was dead as if it had no power supply. There weren’t any batteries in it to begin with so we added some and system came back on but then started to cycle on and off 5 minutes at a time. When it was on, I could feel cold air blowing out so I knew it wasn’t a total system failure. I checked drain line and was shocked to see it was completely full. Outside was still dripping though so I was confused. I hooked shop vac up to outside and inside until there was not even a drop left in line. I pulled out an entire shop vac full of liquid! It was the consistency of plasma. It worked, the air kicked back on and cooled me down from 77 to 72 in under an hour (Central Florida). Videos like this are a lifesaver! I deduced that the float switch must have popped up and killed power to whole system. Since thermostat didn’t have batteries in it initially, it also went down completely. I learned my lesson that in Florida, when you run your air as low as I do, just vinegar won’t do the trick - it seems I’ll need to regularly get out the vacuum. This is also my first handler in the garage if that matters. All my other handlers have been in insulated closets.
I have lived in S. FL since '94, and I've found if you vacuum the drain every 3-4 months, you'll have no clog problems. A five-minute job that saves a lot of anguish. Vinegar helps but won't prevent it entirely.
I think this video just saved me a few hundred bucks. Thankfully, I had a shop vac ready to go. Float Switch was definitely filled with water. Drained that and turned on. Few minutes later, back off. Went to the drain pipe. Got my shop vac and a bunch of nasty stuff comes out. A lot! Turned it back on and it's been 10mins of AC on. Let's hope is stays that way! Thank you!
Thank you for this video. This is exactly what I was experiencing when my air conditioning just shut down. I followed your steps, and I fixed it. Thanks man!
Yours is the only video I watched that showed keeping the float closed when running the vacuum. I’ve been searching to see if it should be open or closed. Thanks.
After cleaning the pipes with vinegar and reinserting the Safe-T-Switch the thermostat screen was still blank. I had to push in the reset switch on the backside of the thermostat to get it to come back on. Now everything is working great. Great video, thank you!
Thanks so much for posting this video. It was so helpful to me. I always try to see if the problem is something I can fix, before having to pay someone. The information you give is just great.
I totally feel you there. It’s still good to have a professional come once a year to do this maintenance as well as checking the system pressure, coils, and capacitor etc.
I THINK THE COIL INSPECTION IS DONE ON THE SIDE OF THE COILS WHICH THE FILTER PROTECTS , WHERE AIR FLOW ENTERS THE COILS, THAT WOULD BE THE OPPOSITE SIDE ( UNDERNEATH). THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTION OF ANGLING THE OVERFLOW PIPE!!!
Thank you very much. It took a little effort to remove the float switch cap, but when I did it was full of water. Some of it went down once opened and my a/C came immediately. I don't have a shop vac ...so guess I'll need to purchase one.
I'm trying to get as educated as I can before I go out in the field for HVAC, currently trying to wrap my head around heat pump maintenance/troubleshooting. Anyways getting to the point, I'm curious if you could take a nitrogen tank with a nozzle/hose attachment and blow it out from the capped area just outside the air handler? Say 50psi and give it a few blasts, would that work or could that cause damages?
Man your video is very helpful, my ac unit looks different and I actually think something isn’t correctly installed. I wish you were a friend of mine to get your help. 😅 if I can message you a picture of it maybe you would be able to tell me what is your wrong with it
Heres a question, on my handler I have two sep pipes coming out the bottom, one that leads outside the other leads to ....what I guess would be a drip line, however the one going outside is not clogged and yet I have water dripping from that part with the wire coming out. What would I do at that point?
I have a float switch but my thermostat is a nest which has a built in battery, I wonder if it will still cut it off. I appreciate the extra information for clearing the drains!!! No “on a future video”
Thank you for the video, about to do this tomorrow, How do you get that drain pan out or is there enough space to suck the water out of it with a shop vac. Thank you
Getting it out isn’t typically an easy task lol. You can fit a small shop vac hose end to suck out the water but makes sure you clean the 2 drain pan holes that go to drain and float switch.
my air handler is in the attic of a small 1 story house. suspended with straps. the setup has no float switch, when the main line gets clogged, the overflow runs to a big drain pain under the handler, which has a secondary drain line that runs out to the eaves. it's supposed to have a hole cut in the eaves where the pipe comes out, but my homebuilders were lazy i guess so it doesnt even have that. but, if i notice water dripping from my eaves in that spot, i know my main line is clogged. but there is no float switch anywhere in the setup. i'm thinking of trying to set a float switch up in the pan as a third line of defense, but not sure if i'm capable. i had a galvanized drain pan that was quite large (about 30"X55") and it finally rusted and started leaking (just a few drops, thankfully no drywall damage) at my last clog event. It was really hard to find another pan that size, and the only one I could find was a thin plastic, with a lip around the edge. So things like float switches are going to be tough to attach, I'll have to see if I can figure anything out or rig something up. anyways with this setup in the video though, i would be afraid of just relying on that 20 dollar float switch in the event of a clog. if that switch is bad, in my setup it's probably gonna ruin a lot of ceiling drywall if the main line gets clogged. yes i suppose you could test the switch regularly etc, but i'd still be nervous. now in a garage setup like this, it would be no big deal. because if you have a little flooding in the garage it's not a huge problem, and plus you are likely to see it much faster since you are probably in the garage often.
Thank you for this incredibly informative video! Been having lots of trouble with AC drain line clogging and your explanation let me fix it on me own. Like others in the comments here, south Florida is a bit of a different beast and seems like it needs to be done much more frequently than other locations. I will be vacuuming mine every 2 months.
Should you turn your AC unit off when you pour the vinegar and then turn it back on? Also, when you’re using the shop vac do you turn your AC to off or leave it on? Thank you for this video
Turn the AC off so you’re not battling the condensation being produced as you’re trying to remove the sludge and existing water in the pipe. Vinegar works since it’s acidic but after letting it sit in the line for 30min, I flush it with a gallon of hot water. - Turn off ac - Use shop vac from outside to pull water and sludge. Do it for a good 5 min - Pour vinegar from the inside pipe/air handler - Follow with hot water after 30 min - Use shop vac one more time outside for 5 min again
Yes, it was. I have a question. Very Important to know what I can do. Living in a Condominium, I have a neighbor underneath me, that doesn't change her A/C Filter on a Monthly Basis. I start to begin smelling dirt from her A/C Unit. It's AWFUL. What to do to avoid telling her she needs to remove her A/C Filter without making her feel bad, cause it stinks my living spaces? I thought I needed an A/C Technician. It was my neighbor instead. Thank You!🤭
Your video is so helpful! Just added it to my favorites so I can find it easily. I liked your explanation about the float switch and the way it is installed in a longer line and not directly next to the primary condensate line. Just wonder if mine will work better by having one like yours. Anyway, I need a new Safe-T-Switch since recently the HVAC technician glued it. Why it was glued? I don't know. Sadly, I live in Florida....
@@ArcLightAddicts Thanks so much, replacing it is my next item. Just need to figure out how to extend the line with an inclination. Still wearing my "thinking hat"! Today, I replaced the fancy wi-fi thermostat for a basic one....and finally enjoying a stable cooling.
@@ArcLightAddicts I fixed it! Your video & input helped me to re-design the line for the new safe-t-switch. Works perfectly! Thanks, here's a Before & After drive.google.com/file/d/1Cqmq39M3IuOp5OQ7CHeM5gX9V7do1rd3/view?usp=sharing
@@sandrablanco6592 Is your system positive or negative pressure? .. I have positive pressure and was advised that a P trap is not needed for this type of system. Also, I noticed you also have 2 vents (1 before the P trap and 1 after).
Please note. 5/16th. The dirty part of this "A" style coil is most commonly on the under side. Be it that your return is boxed underneath the unit as indicated with the filter placement. So your only fixing half the issue, potentially. Suggestions could be a NuCalgon no rinse spray or actually getting to the underside of that coil to properly clean it.
I have done everything you said to do but the water is not draining from the pan. I keep having to vacuum it out. Do you think I need a new float switch? Or do I possibly have a clog in 1 of the 2 lines within inches of the drain pan? Which is before where pouring vinegar would help
Would you recommend putting some vinegar or bleach into the float switch monthly? If I do this would it flow into the pan to prevent algae? I do not feel comfortable taking the panel off to access the drain pan. I do remove the pipe to the drain pan and vacuum monthly, plus I put bleach down the line monthly. Sometimes the float switch still backs up. If I put bleach into the float switch it seems to just stay there for a week or so. Why doesn't it go into the pan.
Good question! The only pipe that needs vinegar or bleach would be the pipe that drains out of the house and I would do this monthly for sure. I will usually run a gallon of hot water after waiting 30 min of the vinegar/bleach flow. You’ll need to manually suction out any water that remains in the float switch pipe unless you can tilt it up to let it drain into the pan.
I just paid Advent Air (Dallas) almost $500 for this 5 minute job. Thermostat was losing connection bc the drain pipe was filling up. All he did was remove the floater thing and blow out the pipe.
I am having the same problem with my Wi-Fi thermostat screen going black. I thought it was a faulty thermostat until I removed the front panel and saw there was no power. Turned out the stop switch in attic turned off the power and the drain line was clogged. I tried using an air blower to unclog it but it didn’t work. So for now I just removed the stop switch and that turned on the AC again But the condensation is going to overflow into the pan. I might try pouring down some bleach into the line and see if that unclogs it. If not I may have to get a shop vac and try to suck it out from the exterior of the house. I even tried snaking the PVC line for another 15 feet but that didn’t help either. Update: poured some bleach down the drain line, flushed it out with hot water after 3 hours. Problem solved :)
My upstairs air conditioner is cold as it is use to be my house is only 2 years old bought brand even though that doesn’t matter I check the vents and some thing dripping on ot
Sucking out the "chunks" from the drip line with a shop vac is a good idea. However, our lines are attached to bathroom sink drains upstairs and it would be extremely inconvenient to detach them every time I want to clear the lines. Any other ideas other than using compressed air to blow them out?
My pipe coming out of the house Is shaped like a " U " with the open side of the hole facing up. The AC guy said it should face up for air flow. I thought that was strange and thought the hole should face down to drain to the ground. Yours is down. What is correct?
My AC keeps turning off because my float switch pipe will start to tilt too far down. I had to prop the pipe slightly up by putting a piece of something below it to hold it up so it’s tilted a little upwards. Will this harm the unit?
There has to be at least a small amount of downward tilt or yeah you could potentially have a flood of water or leak depending on where the unit it located. If it’s filling up at all then you have an issue with the drain or the pan inside.
Just bought a house in SW Florida. How often do you need to do this type of maintenance? Did you say you replace the air filter every month or two? We've got dogs and can't afford to have the AC shut off and stop working when we're not there. I got a smart thermostat i'm gonna put in that sends me alert notifications if the temperature rises too much in the house as an extra precaution.
Replace air filter at least every 2 months and don’t get the high filtration filter or it will clog sooner since it’s made to capture more air particles.
@@AchillesWrath1 yeah the filter tends to be the common root cause or some that don’t run a filter at all. What happens is that dust passes through the system and ends up getting caught up in the condensation that drains out and that causes the clogs. When a filter is too dirty, the suction will bend the filter and air passes around it. There are other instances of clogged drains or float switch issues such as improper pitch in the drain line, too much flow and not enough diameter in the pipe, and also issues with the drain pain holes getting clogged with buildup.
Blowing warm….74-75. Checked float and drain pan under cooling fins. I have zero drainage and no moisture on anything. Any ideas? I had the fins/whole coil replaced last summer. Hoping it wasn’t a tiny leak.
I'm assuming I am looking at it wrong as to me with the pipe running downhill to the float switch and the float switch not being very high, I don't see how water doesn't always run down there and then fill up and trip the float switch. So someone tell me I am not looking at this right please?
