My table saw was getting loud. One of the bearings had worn out. I managed to get the old ones off and the new ones out without having a press and without completely disassembling the saw. woodgears.ca/de...
I was putting this job off for years and my saw was getting quite loud. Seeing how you did it was a great help. My biggest barrier to starting was I envisioned having to take the whole saw apart, showing how to just remove arbor assembly was brilliant. Removing and pressing the bearings back on was not as difficult as I feared. Saws must use a light interference fit, I was expecting needing a heavy press to accomplish this. Your tutorial was excellent and I liked how you didn't hide the trial and errors. Showing/describing the little mistakes was so very helpful as it really highlighted potential pitfalls. All in all great job.
As you cool the shaft, wrap the bearings in aluminum (aluminium) foil and then place on top of a bare incandescent bulb. 250* F (120*C) -300*F (150*C) will be sufficient.
I have not used the aluminum foil on the incandescent bulb idea, but I have used the freezer suggestion with success. It works great for a jointer arbor.
Thanks for posting this Matthias. This video has been really helpful for me, as I need to replace the bearing on a circular saw, which I damaged whilst removing it. Seeing how you pressed the new bearing back into place - without recourse to the specialist tools one can buy (which I can't really afford) - was the key part. Thanks again.
Dear Mr. Wandel. Thank you for inspiring me and forging the repair road ahead. I am particularly grateful for this video since I am going about re-greasing or replacing the bearings in my trusty Craftsman 10" table saw. Ahhh, wish tools were built this well today. Gratefully, Dadla.
Many years ago I did this to my Delta contractors' saw. I, too, used SKF bearings. At the same time, I ditched the v-belt and sheaves for a ribbed flat belt and sheaves (all parts from McMaster-Carr). What a world of difference! Quiet, and smooth as oiled glass.
Good video showing improv at it's best. A novice here seeing these kind of videos makes me consider the value of a tool's future maintenance as well as it's utility. It seems in many cases that the simplicity of a machine as far as repair goes outweighs all the bells and whistles you can buy.
Hi folks. Mathias did a great job changing those out. If you have to do it try and minimise the stress on the bearings. Push on the bit that is a tight fit, don't apply force to the inner race to make the outer one fit or vice versa and do not hamer them home - those actions significantly reduce the life of the bearings. As pointed out by others below, warming the housing and cooling the spindle will also help, but you need to work quickly or they just all reach the same temperature. Sometimes a lenght of 'allthread' can be a big help depending on the configuration and conveniently sized mechanics sockets are much used as spacers. But, Mathias, of course, did it with wood! Cheers. BobUK.
Nice one - but would have been much easier to fit the new bearings by taking advantage of differential expansion - shaft in freezer, warm bearings in oven,
I love the jig you set up. Also the wooden bearing press. I recently had a similar repair on the arbor on my lathe. Having never had to do that repair before, it took me a little longer than it should have. Removing bearings a second time happened to me as well. Live and learn.
In my experience, when a bearing gets noisy like that, it means the lubrication inside has broken down and dried out. If they have bearing seals that can be removed (the new ones he is using do) then they are able to be re lubricated as long as the bearings have not run too long dry and worn on the inner and outer race causing movement. Hope that helps!
With the amount of work used to get them out, it's better to just put in new bearings and not have to worry about it, especially if they are cheap standard bearings.
Matthias : When you hit on axels & bearings and such you should always say 'tappety-tap-tap'. I learned that from another Canadian who knows about these thinks. He hates wood, tho' - calls it 'dead tree carcasses' - so he's not to be entirely trusted.
barkebaat That 'other Canadian' is, perhaps, not to be trusted in a 'dead tree carcass' workshop...but, anyone who understands conversational profanity that well, knows SOMETHING and should be deemed part of the national treasure! {grins}
mr. 'carbohydrate foam' is still carrying on. if you can ignore his pointless slandering of the finer crafts, he has a lot of valuable info to incoherently mumble
You're an amazing mechanic too? You remind me of my dad. Necessity is the mother of invention, he always said.Blessings to you and yours from the middle of California.
There's an old saying that goes Dont Force It, Get A Bigger Hammer. Or the one from the Fire Fighter perspective, If It Wont Move, Force It, If It Breaks, It Needed To Be Fixed Anyway.
put the bearings in your oven at 120-150 degrees celsius (the grease can take it) and they should slide on easily. saved me hours of bumping and hammering :)
He was replying to installing the new bearings I believe. I usually put the shaft in the freezer and warm the bearings on a 40-60w bulb or just hold them in my hands till warm. Then with the cold shaft and warm bearings the inner race just slides on to the shaft no press and very quick. If it doesn’t seat all the way at the bottom I find a piece of pvc that fits the inner race and hit the inner race down till it seats.
I can confirm this works really well with putting on the new bearings, I did 200 degrees Fahrenheit and the new bearing slid right on the shaft without needing a press
Hey Matthias! Next time you need to change a bearing on a shaft like that, after youve removed the old bearings, just stick it in the freezer for an hour or two. The cold causes the metal to contract and shrink a few thousandths of an inch. Sounds stupid but 9 times out of 10 it works beautifully! Works good for wheel bearing hubs and u-joints and things like that as well. Not trying to sound like a know it all or say your way is wrong or anything. The internets got enough keyboard captains.
I remember getting sent over to the carpenter shop one time because their Unisaw was making evil sounds. Bad bearings, the arbor was damaged and the pulley was shot. Made a new arbor and pulley, re-assembled, aligned the blade and we tired it up. Smooth, quiet (for a table saw) and cut great. Must of made somebody mad because the Safety Dept came out and locked it out a couple of weeks later.
I replaced the arbor bearings in my vintage rockwell delta 8" that somehow made its way to Sweden. I had a lot of fun going about it in much the same way as you! :)
I fully empathize. I spent a half-day on my back reaching up into my very similar saw trying to get a gear-puller into tight quarters. My saw uses an intermediate pulley between the motor and the arbor, (which has a nice side effect of not having to move the motor when I raise the blade) but that also means it’s a dual pulley, (v-belt+ribbed timing belt style) and this fine “Canadian” made in Taiwan saw used cast tin-foil for that custom pulley. Since I bought the saw, this outfit has gone bankrupt twice, this final time for good, and long story short, after a disastrous adventure in 3D printing, I had a local machine shop duplicate the pulley out of stainless steel, for less than any local shop would print me one out of any sort of nylon or abs. One shop offered to print on in bronze infused stainless for nearly 700.oo. The machine shop did a one-off for 150.oo.
My takeaway? If you ever found yourself the captain of a u-boat (or an American sub, for that matter) that was out for months patrolling the Atlantic, and you needed to have one head mechanic onboard who could fix pretty much anything, Matthias Wandel would be your man.
6 лет назад
To get a better sound, normal people tune their cars, Matthias improves his table saw 😉
He didn't improve it, he fixed it.. He replaced bearings! I still laugh at the modern idea of "car tuning".. In the old days, it meant a "tune up".. Clean and gap the points and plugs and occasionally, a clean of the carby(s). When needed, replacing points, plugs and carby kit or kits where multiple carby's were fitted. It had nothing to do with how a car "sounded".. Lol.
Hi Mathias, If that nut is moving again, try to find a ring with a lip on the inside that slides in that groove. Put than that nut on again, the ring won't turn so when the nut is tightened put a cold chisel under the ring and hit the chisel, the nut will stay in place.
That was pretty much my reaction when I finally started to get movement on a stubborn, worn out bearing that was press fit into the lower housing of a 7518 Porter Cable router that I bought on Ebay really cheap.
To press bearings onto shafts black/steel water pipe works well. Get a size that barely fits over the shaft, then it will stay straight & only press the inner race of the bearing.
I just completed this job on a Rexon RXW10 tablesaw, it was almost exactly the same. One difference was I had 2 spring washers on the arbor pin and they were a pain in the ass get to back in, this was the hardest part of the job. Like Mathias I bought the same bearings from Motion Canada at 6$ apiece. I lubricated everything with a graphite spray dry lube. My arbor was a little different in design in that the shiv was one piece. My old bearings pulled off easier and new ones pressed on easily. I need a good idea as to how to hook dust collection up to this saw.
when you were pounding on the shaft to remove the bearing, I disturbed my wife when I cried out "clamps, where are your clamps!" as watched you adjust your angle iron :) I imagine it wasn't a big issue just seemed it in the sped up footage
hello mathias, to push the ball bearings you have to make the hot as it spreads and goes in. do not worry as long as she gets cold again she gets stuck
Jesus. What shit engineering, this was a heroic effort on your part repairing this travesty. Also what an absurdly complex shaft assembly. Semi-permanent bearings like this should never fail, shame on the company that went with substandard parts.
A good trick to use is put the shaft in the freezer for a while and if your toaster oven goes down to say 100° F warm up the bearing with that you'll still need to use force but alot less.
When pressing the races into the hub on my truck I spent about 60 seconds at the bench grinder to turn down the OD of the old race till they would just drop in.
Hi, I am about to do the same thing on my table saw (different one) and i am also using skf bearings as you do. Mine are 6000 rs but what i was wondering, i just got them today brand new but they are not spinning at all compared to 6000 zz with metal cover. Is this normal?
Great! Way too late but, making a relief cut on the inside of the old bearing avoids it from being pressed. A dremel might do the trick... You are as always impresive!
My SKFs were USA made when I did this years ago. The stock bearings were Japanese NTNs. I remember working at a place with high-speed saws and we used NTN bearings. Lots of them. Often!
Well, at least they weren't FAGs. We had a mechanic at work looking up torque specs on the FAG bearings our German-made machine tools we used, and the next thing he finds is that his PC is locked down, and a short time later his manager and carbon-based life form from HR were looming over him demanding to know just what the hell he was surfing on the 'net!
hello how, I always watch your videos with a lot of attention, and I like them a lot, now let me give you an opinion, for the assembly of the axis you do not have to do as much force or blows, the shaft goes a time at low temperature, the bearings can go in a container with warm oil, then you will do it with olgura much easier, hug! from Argentina . Sorry for the translation, it's the google translator
I learned not to use a metal hammer to drive the old bearing off the arbor the first time I did this to my old Walker Turner saw :-) I ended up using a piece of metal pipe slightly larger than the arbor diameter to hammer on to press the new bearing on. Getting at my arbor bearings was a lot more involved though lol
Is that a thing with imperial belts? I only know metric/DIN belts which just have a fixed profile (e.g. B/13 is 13 mm wide at the top). I'd have guessed that a split pulley is simply cheaper to manufacture.
I doubt it's anything to do with imperial or metric belts, I'm in the states and I don't think split pulleys like that are anything common. That saw was most likely made in taiwan so it could very well have a metric sized pulley/belt. My guess would be the same as yours, just the manufacturer cutting costs.
