I share my mistakes and my learnings from Hybrid Warping on a Rigid Heddle Loom. Here is the link to the Warp tensioning device video • Need Perfect tension o...
This was such a helpful video! I appreciate that you took the time to document your mistakes AND shared them with us. There a lots of videos that have warned us of things NOT to do, but, as a new weaver, I don’t always understand the WHY. Thank you!
I made my own warp tensioning device based exactly on your video. Thank you for sharing that, as well as these tips with us. I've got a 32" rigid heddle and my current project is a very complicated design (Eight curtain panels that are 30" x 72" each) for the whole width with 8/2 cotton, and the tensioning device is a game changer. It will make panels 4 - 8 go much more smoothly. 😄
I have tried this... I have a 24" Ashford rigid heddle loom on an Ashford new style stand. (Looks like yours.) How do you keep the loom from tilting forward as the warping goes along? Mine always gets tighter toward the middle of the heddle and the back of the stand rises up.
I think you are probably pulling the double loop through for too long, or maybe pulling your threads too tightly. Once the loop is through, seperate and only pull the loose thread through and gently place the threads on the warping board. This should stop the warp pulling on the your Rigid heddle. Give this a go, and let me know if it worked. Good luck!
Do you think this is possible with a warping mill if not using too much tension? Also,does the warp tensioning device help with the issue of the edge threads having to line up right on top of each other ( or you get weird selvedge issues)
Hi there. To be honest, I’m not sure but give it a go and let me know! I haven’t had this issue with the edge threads at all, I’m wondering if the selvedges are too tight?
@@RigidHeddleWeavinginBrisbane Thanks, I will! The issue is that when I wind it on (iether my ashford or my cricket) if the last thread drops down so it is beside the roll of yarn that has been created, then that is shorter and therefore tighter than the others. Sometimes to the extent that I have to replace it (or just cut it off). I know other people who also have this issue sometimes, but some who don't.
Ooohhh I get it now! Yes, this is tricky if you use the full length of the reed, or your warp seperater isn’t the full length of the back beam. I think this could be avoided by using a more rigid way of separating your warp when winding on, such as thin wooden slats that go the full length on the back beam. Let me know how you go!
@@RigidHeddleWeavinginBrisbane I'm thinking the tensioning device might do the trick! I use slats from miniblinds rather than paper when winding on, helps a bit.
I’m just about to try this with a warping mill. Only going with a shortish 4m warp, as I’m not sure how it will go. Using my 15” Cricket, which I don’t like as much as my Ashford and this will be a random piece of cloth, scarf width. Do yu have a website? I can take photos and send to you
