I’ve run the SE Sport 300 on my boat for 16 years now (yes, they last!), and it was the single best upgrade I’ve ever made. It completely eliminated any cavitation and prop blow out, which has been especially great when pulling tubes. Because it helps focus the prop’s thrust, it makes for a very assertive hole shot, and it makes turning very sharp and precise. For V-Hulls it’ll get you on plane faster, and eliminates porpoising. I’d never be without one, and the SE is the best one on the market!
They make a massive difference to some boats that's for sure. I don't think they are needed on all boats but has made a big difference to mine. Thanks for the interesting comment mate. They can be a great addition that's for sure.
If you read my above comment. I have a 19 ft ranger 393v an 88 with an 87 150 V6 Johnson. I have like 4 or 5 batteries in the back for fishing. Will be interesting to see the difference this makes
Hi SBC, Well I finally fitted my SE Sport 200 to my 350 Quintrex Outback Explorer. I was told the SE 300 would be overkill for a 15hp Yamaha motor. I didn't get to try it solo for a few weeks as my son has been tilling the boat with me sitting at the front. So I finally gave it a big run by myself. The difference was fantastic! The boat got straight up onto the plane at low speed. So I now have vision instead of staring at the floor of my boat with the bow pointed skyward. And, if I give it a fistful from a standing start it's even better. Another bonus was the steering was much smoother. I was previously very worried about someone getting tossed out of the boat, as the steering was so sensitive. As you said, they are punt-like at the transom. The hydrofoil has made the steering much smoother, still I wouldn't suggest any acute turns at high speed in this boat. The real test came yesterday as I headed home into a southerly. This was a real problem before, but yesterday the bow stayed down and it was a much better ride.
That's fantastic mate. So good to hear. I wasn't too sure myself on how well it would go on the 15hp but sounds like it has worked amazingly well. SBC.
Have one on a 4.2m Quintrex/ 40hp merc combo. Very noticeably better at all speeds except flat out, and in any turning manoeuvres. Love how it planes slower and smoother.
I'm so glad I watch this I'm a big man with a 4.20 explorer with 40 HP 4/ST a lot of wight on the ars end fish on my own mus of the time do you think this could help me buy the way it's Tiller great I'll check the rest out 👍
G'day mate. I think it will for sure. Such a light boat with all the weight on the transom probably has it bogging down with the bow up when taking off. If that is the case, the foil will help a lot. If your boat happens to launch out of the hole and straight up on the plan without any fuss, then a hydrofoil won't improve it much at all. The SE300 foil I fitted to my 70hp will also suit the 40hp. Some might suggest a SE200 for a 40hp but I have found the 200 is too small for anything 40hp and over. Let me know how it goes mate.
Hey, SMB, I have a Quintrex Outback Explorer with a 15hp Yamaha 4 stroke tiller, which I've only had in the water a few times. I have 2 problems: firstly, because I have a very heavy AGM battery at the back for the bow-mount trolling motor, plus me and the fuel tank, it doesn't get up on the plane as quickly as I'd like--especially at low speed (I'm a slow roller). The other problem I'm having is when I stop or turn it's a little too sensitive for my liking--at first it felt like I was going to get thrown out of the boat. Even though I've only had the boat in the water a few times, I've learned to hang on, but I'm worried that when my 15-year-old son takes the helm it could be a problem. Aprat from a SE 300 getting the boat up on the plane quicker, do you thing it will improve stability when stopping quickly or turning? I do sound like a bit of an amateur here but it's my 5th boat, and that includes having a Haynes Signature 530 with an 115 HP motor. This was also the case with a little Quintrex Wanderer I had with a 6HP--it got up on the plane very quickly but you have to be very careful not to make sudden turns because of the flat bottom. But the Explorer has a deep V hull.
G'day Fred. Sounds like the explorer has an issue with all the weight to the stern. The hull design of the Quintrex is an interesting one. It has a sharp entry point with that flared out bow but it is still a punt of sorts. A deep V Hull is a hull that is deep at the transom. Some manufacturers now call their hulls variable deadrise hulls and I guess technically that is true, but the deadrise is measured from the transom and not the entry point. So a hull with a 20 degree deadrise is considered a deep V hull but just about all boats have a much sharper entry point at the bow. Your explorer is very sharp at one end but is like a punt at the transom. This is important because when you're on the plane in smooth water, it's only the transom this is in the water. I love the Quntrex hull designs. They are great boats and after owning a 4m Hornet years back, I rate the sharp entry greatly. Great boat. But while you don't mention the size, with a 15hp, I guess its the 370. The 370 will plane with just a small amount of the stern in the water and by putting too much weight back there as well, this will have it riding on the keel and a tiny amount of stern. I bet its fast when she's on the plane but would be very sensitive and coming off the plane, may even have the stern wave come over and want to swamp the boat. The only answer is to get more of the keel and the back of the boat in the water. Weight distribution in small boats is so important. I will actually look at doing a video on it because I have had that issue many times in the past. I'd fix the weight issue first and see if that fixes all your problems, including the issue with getting on the plane. Ensure your engine isn't trimmed out too far and if it is still not getting on the plane, then a foil will definitely help. But I suspect the weight distribution will fix all your issues. Please let me know how it goes. SBC.
@@smallboatcaptain1968 Thanks SBC. In the meantime I did buy the small version of the SM 300 Hydrofoil, and I'm about to fit it. I'll get back to you. And I've just realised I called you SMB instead of SBC, which comes from my many years of drinking San Miguel Beer.
G'day Stuart. Nice work. I found the same too. Most foils I have fitted to boats have slowed them down too. Didn't slow my SeaJay at all but that is not the norm. It did make it plane a lot easier and does stay on the plane at slower speeds.
I have an old 1988 ranger 393v w an 87 150v6 Johnson. I have a bunch of batteries in the back because I do a lot of fishing the fuel tanks are under the seats but still a lot of weight in the back we're talking like four batteries. So they said to get one of these to save on gas and smoother ride. I dont really have a prob as is. I plane around 12 mph and she runs like butter. So im just curious as to if it will make that big of a difference
I to have a Ranger Bass Boat And boy is it heavy in the ass, end 4 batteries plus a 40 gallon fuel tank Like to know how yous is running? Thanks from Connecticut USA
Sorry for the late reply. I only just spotted that I missed this comment. There are versions that you don't need to drill. So shop around and let me know if they are any good. SBC.
A wing can make a difference especially in skinny water and since I'm assuming you're from down under have you ever looked at Permatrim Cavitation Plate that's made in Auckland.....The install on my skinny water tunnel boat helped the out of the hole lift and helped to prevent cavitation on my 4 blade prop.....Just saying!!😎
G'day Wes. Yes I am from downunder. Far northern Australia. I live in a place called Weipa which has the highest boat registration per capita in Australia. We all love our fishing and boating up this way. I have seen a number of the Permatrim hydrofoils on boats up here and from all reports, I believe that are an excellent hydrofoil. I simply went with the SE Foil because I have used them before but I did look at the Peramtrim. It was around $100 more expensive so I stuck with what I know.
@@smallboatcaptain1968 I put one on my skinny water tunnel hull 2 years ago with a 25 Yamaha and just today ordered one for my center console with a 70 Yamaha.....Gives me a lot of lift out of the hole without trim tabs!!😎
@@WesLovelace i had one on my last boat and i found it good will be getting the same on the new engine i like the way they are made from ali and can be used as a step if beah launching
@@smallboatcaptain1968 Wow when i checked the oz propellors foil ( same as the permatrim different name ) it was cheaper than the se 300 from boating campin and flogbags by 30 dollars
Gday mate being as i am going to have a fiberglass boat and a 40hp i will definetly be getting a foil can you tell me what gauges you have for the size motor and boat i would think really the only one i would need is the tacho to be honest i have never used gauge before on any of my boats ,i wonder how a tiller steer gets on dont think there are gauges for them .
G'day mate. What outboard are you getting? If it is a Yammy like mine, I have the 6Y5 gauges. These are the basic gauges you get with a Yamaha but will have to buy them for a tiller. You can upgrade to a 6Y8 gauge which can work out your fuel burn and is a little more fancy. Both the 6Y5 and the 6Y8 will fit a 40 Yammy. Other outboards also have their gauges that will suit a tiller steer outboard but being a Yamaha guy, I am not sure on the details. They are cheap at around $300 plus fitting for a single tacho that also has the trim and a couple of alarms for overheating and oil pressure. That is the one on the video on the left. The second gauge I have is mostly for fuel but also has time, battery, trip and speed. But speed is not accurate so I use my GPS. Hope that helps and thanks for the question. I may not know all the answers but happy to share what I do know mate.
@@smallboatcaptain1968 gday mate thats what i was wanting , the dealer dont give nothing away asked if i need a fuel tank control box all these things he could charge me for i already have a fuel tank and a new control box 703 had to buy it as the last owner lock tighted (permanent) the centre bolt to the case and also the screws that cover the control cables why who knows ,as i said i really think the only gauge i should need would be the tacho for a small engine dont need to know how fast im going as long as im moving in the right direction never had one on any other boats , he has quoted me between 500 and 1200 for fitting its a bare boat with new helm and control box if it goes to 1200 i will want to know why ,i have fitted about 5 engines to date myself and doesnt take a great deal of time considering it was a 40hp two stroke that came of bolt holes should be the same just a slap and fit job .Thanks for answering my question tell me do they still use the u bracket at the back of these gaues to hold them in still ?
@@crispernator Wow. You did answer your own question mate. I just went on line and checked. The tacho only gauge for the Yamaha 6Y5 is $330 and fitting it, as I am sure you know, is dependent upon where you want it. Plugging the gauge into the engine and running it through some conduit is not hard, as long as the engine supports that gauge. The hours you can spend wiring it up to a dash or panel is another story. But $1200 is nuts. Thats more than a full day of labour to plug a gauge in.
@@smallboatcaptain1968 your dead right about the cost 500- 1200 that was for the engine fit up hook up the helm cable 4 mounting bolts and water test ,i have fitted around 5 engines my self it aint that hard dont know what the cost to fit the tacho would be it requires a loom as well 195 dollars i believe .
