Thank you for this video. I was having problems with my proto maxxed rail where my velocity was fluctuating so much that some shots would barely roll out of the barrel but after following your tutorial it's now shooting properly again :D
This video is vey helpful, great job. I too run a '14 Reflex Rail. I do have a question not relating to the Hyper 3. Do you ever have any issues with breaking paint? Gun setup is as follows: Reflex Rail (All stock) Guerilla 68/45 Dye Rotor The gun is meticulously maintained. Cleaned and lubed after each day of play, new batteries when needed, eye pipe in great shape, etc. Happens on both semi and ramp (12.5). It's not very often that it happens...but it happens enough to be noticeable. I've switched from dye slick to hater sauce and neither seem to make a difference. I understand if it happens in colder weather, especially with a spool. However, I've been playing indoors and still fighting some issues with both 1 and 3 star paint. I understand the bore of the barrel back can be a determining factor...but when it doesn't happen the gun shoots absolutely amazing. Please let me know your thoughts. Is there something else I should be looking at? All O-rings on the bolt look good. They've been replaced once before and it didn't help too much. Let me know what you think. Thanks in advance.
C Smreks thanks for the comment! Personally, I haven't broken paint (knock on wood), however are you experiencing a ball chop/break (chops in the breach) or barrel break? With the marker being well kept, I would assume you're experiencing barrel breaks, which you pointed out could correlate to the bore size. I shoot Valken Redemption and shoots flawlessly at .689, .687 will work, but if you get that one ball that is slightly warped or have swelled, it's break in the barrel. Therefore, you shouldn't experience too much of an issue in efficiency or shot quality running .689--but yea, I would chop that up (pun intended-ha!) on simply barrel bore.
BDTube2006 Thank you for the reply. I would agree that this is mostly a bore issue. When I do experience a ball break my barrel (front and back) is typically coated and requires the use of a good swab... When I take the eye pipe out its a little slimy, maybe a smear here or there, and the front of the bolt usually has a hint of paint but nothing excessive. Currently the marker shoots consistently 280-285ish and no leaks and I have not had any issues with the eyes malfunctioning from being dirty or low battery. What barrel set-up are you running? Are you using inserts? Thanks Again
Awesome Vid! But I have a question I to have a proto reflex rail but mine is 2013 fairly the same thing but for my reg at the bottom where i turn up the velocity it is like locked up or stopped but when i go to the chronograph it is only at 230. Know whats wrong? Possibly turn my dwell up like 2-3 clicks? (its at 10 right now)
Sam Ford I'd suggest setting your dwell to 18ms. If you have screwed the velocity adjustment screw all the way down, you're cutting off the air supply. You will need to back it out.
After you put your macro line back in and attach the air what is the default position for the velocity adjuster(how many quarter turns out from all the way in)
I'm not sure if there is a factory position, however, I would recommend to set the adjustment screw all the way in (clockwise-lowest pressure); then backing it out to get up to speed...
If it has never been removed, it's a bit difficult at first. Make sure you're twisting in the correct direction and hit helps to have a thick rubber band or glove to assist with grip.
My rize maxxed keep rolling balls and some shots work and some are really weak when i checked the chrono it was very inconsistent so does this maintenance also work on the rize maxxed ?
I'm fucked up after maintenance! I have 14 disks on mine, and can't remember how to place them: #1: ()()()()()()() ? #2: )()()()()()()( ? #3: Other? I am also trying to change the godam o ring on the piston but it doesn't to fit the body for hyper 3.... Any solutions to put this o ring back in? Ty in advance (a lot.... I am becoming crazy!)
yeah, but some people say the eclipse etha is better than the axe, and the eclipse etha and the maxxed are basically the same because of the packaging and the barrel and they they both have a user manageable regulator. So if other people think the eclipse is better than the AXE and both the planet eclipse etha and the maxxed are basically the same wouldn't that mean the maxxed is better than the gs?
paintball god Well, there are many variables between the three markers. As far as many saying "Etha better than an Axe", I believe there are pros and cons to every marker--you just have to find out which are important to you... With the Etha and Maxxed, they both have the annoying (to some) macroline--which the Axe does not (gas through the frame, same for the GS). Etha and Axe can both program on the fly, unfortunately you can not with the Maxxed. User manageable regulator--all can be managed--however, with the Axe you have to have a special tool (which is not provided by Kee), but certainly can be purchased if you feel the need to service the reg. I don't believe efficiency will play a roll with any marker (all three are great on efficiency), simply because if you're in a tournament, have you ever seen anyone run out of air on the field? and for rec play--typically people fill up when they are running low any way. I have yet to play with any Planet Eclipse marker, but owning an AXE (Empire) and the Reflex Rail (Dye)--these markers are machine guns! :D You'll love the Empire line though. Have you ever heard the phrase, "AXE+Cash", the key word there is AXE; everyone has one because they are that good! :D No worries paintball god , you'll be happy with the GS. Good luck!
What bottom piece are you referring to? The cap? Those are torqued from the factory pretty tight, just make sure you're turning the right way too, it will come off.
