Just wanted to come back and thank you for this design. I built one in 2017, my first DIY printer. I've now also built a Voron V2.4 and Voron V0.1. I'm just now starting to build an Annex K3. While the printers and technology have come a long, long way - I'm still holding onto my HEVO and print with it from time to time. Thank you again!
Building mine really soon and I went all 12mm anodised aluminium rods from igus with hollow rods for the Y axis with the more updated Z axis bed (dual screw and quad rods)
Interesting changes. Would you please update your video description with your thingiverse link as well as any vendors that you are willing to share, preferably with direct product links. This helps out everyone immensely. Thanks!
Thanks for going over the differences. It's one thing to see the parts and description, another thing to actually see them in real life which helps see how they work. I'm halfway thru a HyperCube build atm but some of these remakes look like a really good upgrade for later on. I'm already using a remixed XY Joiner which allows for toothed idlers, I didn't like the belts on bearings either. I'm surprised you could use those internal L brackets, I have those Ls on another printer and they were impossible to get square. I assumed they were inferior cheap rubbish.
Very nice -- well done! I'm working on my own design (around mixed Misumi T-slot, and Openbuilds V-slot). I started out with a modified Makerbot design (~300x300x400mm build) with dual Z axis screws, but changed my mind to go with a corexy design. I'm also going to a single Z axis cantilevered bed design using 2 2040 V-slot and 8 polycarbonate wheels (4 per side). I think I can make the single drive bed very stable. If not, I will go back to the dual drive -- possibly using a single big Nema17 with an endless loop belt (9-10mm) driving both screws. Since I have quite a bit of 2060 V-slot, I'll likely use it for the frame uprights -- though I really do like the 3030. I think it makes frame symmetry easier to achieve. I'll probably use polycarbonate mini V-wheels for the X axis extruder carrier, on 2020 V-slot, etc. I may use some of your design -- when appropriate, and will give you full credit for that aspect of my design. I have a Creality CR-10, a wooden Flashforge, and metal Makerbot clone to produce parts. The CR-10 is great for that -- the entire small parts population on one bed. Probably use PETG for many of the parts. Cheers, and keep up the fine work!
Absolutely amazing build! But I have one gripe... I just spent $780 for a new Prusa MK2S (which is pretty awesome already) I found out about this Hypercube Evolution because I was looking at building an extruded frame for my MK3S, but after seeing this build, I now have decided to build your dual Z version Hypercube. (At least I have a good printer to print the Hypercube parts with!) One of my favorite add-ons you have come up with is the dial indicator mount. Being a machinist myself, I have thought of doing this somehow for my Prusa as a way to get a perfectly square frame.The only thing I want to change on my build is a taller Z-axis and extend the Z height of the frame above the carriage stops enough so that I can enclose the whole cube with Lexan.Thanks for all your work and sharing it with us!
Great job. Can't wait to see the dual Z mod on it because I believe it will make a rock solid bed platform. I've already ordered most of the parts so I'll be building mine soon. Thanks ;)
Have you thought about rod placement? I was thinking that if the Z rods were on the left and right of the plate it would still provide stability while having the front unobstructed for print removal.
Oh sure, just found you after buying all the parts from Tech2C's BOM. Hope that by the time I get it dialed in I can use it to follow along with your build. Good work. Can't wait to see how this comes along. I will chip in my thoughts on carbon fiber rod. The rolled/wrapped CF rod is stiff as heck. Have no worries about it being rigid enough. My upper body strength isn't enough to notably deform the 10mm OD. Out of four rods I got, one of them had a little "banana" to it, though. Good thing I got extra for other projects that it doesn't matter for. If using carbon fiber for larger builds, the diameter should probably scale accordingly. I think CF is beyond adequate assuming bowden extrusion.
More bloody Aussies lol. The Arduino runs out of single steps at 10kHz and quadsteps at 40kHz, so the speed limit for accurate movement ends up being between 65mm/sec and 125mm/sec depending on how the motors are moving. 32-bit boards can do at least an order of magnitude better. You can also run RepRapFirmware on the RADDS, that seems to be the best 32-bit option.
Thanks Scott ,awesome video. Must say looks like awesome printer. In the process of getting things together to build one of these printer. Thanks for sharing appreciate it.
Hi, Thanks for the feedback. The printer has been working hard all week printing more sets of parts. Hope to have some further videos up early next week.
Hi Scott, I have 30mmx30mm profiles available. May I ask are you going to share some of stl files that you have changed and improved. I would really appreciate them. Thanks
You can tell more about the connection of electricians, mosfet, arduino and ramps and what components should I buy? and one more question: will there be a variant with rails and 32 bits
Good video.That's a smart machine & an impressive smooth surfaced print result. I hope when I get mine built (Im trying a double Z LIft large format) it'll be as good. Ive de;layed getting printed parts as I wanted to see what Feedback appeared on Tech2's excellent design & adaptations of it, also to see what filament everyone think is the best for Parts.
If I am not mistaken, I think your bed also has screw levels which the tech2c hypercube didn't have. Your mods are awesome and really improve the design.
Is this something that is supported/developed? I have been trying to decide between hypercube and Boron but I cant seem to find a lot of info on the hypercube
Is there a reason you wanted to go with steel rods? It seems like the additional weight would be a negative in terms of ringing. Just curious. I am planning to build one of these with your modifications! Very impressed
Hello Scott, I bought a printer model, could you send me schematic of how to put filament sensor in it? Here in Brazil there is not much about it. Thanks
Hi, just started building this printer, huge thanks for posting your build logs and all the parts. I just finished printing all the parts for the dual z axis version and are currently waiting for the extrusions from China. Super exited to get starting building. I have two psu`s laying around one 12 and one 24V and was wondering instead of modifying the ramps to run on 24 volts, if I could use a SSR (or aMOSFET?) connected to the 24V psu to run the heat bed, and everything else from the 12V psu ( or a decent 24-12V stepdown converter). Controlling the SSR from the D8 pin on the ramps? Reason I`m asking is that all my other components comes form my old Anet A8 so 12V (hotend, fans etc). Again, thanks
Great video. I'm planning to build larger printer about 800mm x 800mm x 800mm building volume. Can I use Nema34 stepper motors for that big size printer? If yes, Can I use Hypercube evolution electronics board to control that size stepper motors?
I was actually planning on scaling the hypercube design and redesigning the parts to make a 600^3 build volume but i guess you just did it for me! Keep up the good work!
It looks good, I look forward to seeing how it works out. What would you say was the total $ spent? I have also been looking at the Folger Tech FT-5, which has a similar z-axis setup to your design. A common issue is the z-axis lead screws getting out of alignment if left sitting. How do you plan to deal with that issue? One person put end stops on both sides, driving the two motors separately. It seemed to work well.
The double-z Axis is the way to go. one of the big disappointments on my anet a6 was one limit switch on the double z axis. IMO , the z steppers should have each a separate driver, and separate limit switches. This allows for zeroing both z steppers in a repeatable way. Is that what you are doing in the double z version?
Hi, i'm into this same project by my own, and let me tell you your designs are wonderful. noisy but really really nice. Change Drivers to silence ones and will be world classssss!!!!
Great effort on your enhancements to the original Hypercube. Could you explain in more detail why you stick with stell rods for the X-axis? The last itteration by Tec2C is using Carbonfibre tube to loose even more weight on the X-axis. IMO this makes sense. So I am a bit surprised you went back to steel rods.
Tech2C has the right approach with wanting to minimise the moving mass. However we also have a trade off with the stiffness of the system. Carbon fibre tubes are stong but are they as stiff as the MS rods? I have not done the numbers but my gut... Strenght and stiffness are both important to consider. An A380 wing is light and strong but not stiff. As I said I have not done the numbers and went with the MS rods so that there would be no issues with the bearings.
Hello, why not mounting the single z-axis motor with the threaded rod opposite of the steel rods, so i think its not necessary to use dual-z-motors (save money and energy and lower noise) and it should be much more stable than have the build table hanging in the air.
The build table would still be hanging in the air. If you wish to simplify having dual - z - motors with only 2 (not 4) 12 mm z steel linear rods is worth considering
Please can you advise me on how big should my cube be if I am using the ANYCUBIC Ultrabase Heated Bed at 430 * 410mm? I am going to use 3030 extrusion for the frame and 2020 for the Z frame to hold the bed.
Thanks to you and Tech2 for this awesome project. This is exactly what I have been looking for - something solid that I can build and modify to suit my needs. Looking at your Thingiverse summary, I'm guessing you're a mechanical engineer by trade. It follows all the conventions I'm familiar with. Some of the Aliexpress links no longer work because I suspect those particular items are no longer available from them. I plan on using a Duet Wi-Fi control board or I may look into a Lerdge-X board (don't know much about this one) or MKS SBASE with TMC2208 drivers. All are 32 bit cards. Not sure if I'll use a pre-made hot bed or make my own from 4mm thick 6061 aluminum for it's regidity.
This is a really attractive build mate. You got rid of my biggest gripe with the Hypercube, the reversed belt ahah Just finished printing my parts for the hypercube, received my 2020 and now this! ;) Do you reckon I could still use 2020 extrusions for the whole build? Would the stepper motors mounts fit you reckon?..
The parts would need to be reworked to work on 2020 extrusion. It could be done but at the moment I have people wanting mods and changes to the current design based on 3030.
Just yesterday I order 12 meters 20x20 profile, and then I found your wonderful design :-( Thank you for making a video series about it and publishing your 3D-parts! I hope you will find the time to make a 20x20 version.
Surly this is a joke, there is nothing that you can do to a $1,600 taz 5 that is worth doing. If you really want to switch to coreXY you can make money back on principal alone. TAZ 5 has more value that a printer like this because of the name. If you sell the taz 5, you will have the money for two coreXY printers. 2 printers are better than one!
Mine is built and running but I went with a BMG direct drive dual extruder and e3d V6 hotend on the X-carriage and it's too much weight for it on 8mm rods, it's not very fast due to the mass............ Trying to move that much weight about during acceleration and de-acceleration around corners causes ringing / ghosting using too much jerk to correct it causes blobs on corners of the cube because of over extrusion because the hotend moves slower around the corner...........Stick with the bowden setup and make the top end as light as reasonable possible without sacrificing strength. You will have a better 3d printer. I'm going bowden too.
Hi Scott. Built such a printer. but I have a problem. I am not friendly with programming. bought motherboard MKS GEN L 2.1 + MKS TFT3.5, on aliexpress. could you help me configure the firmware. Thanks.
I'm starting to gather the parts to build one of these printers but have run into a snag. The link in Thingiverse for the stepper motor with lead screw no longer works so in looking for a substitute, I've discovered that there are three pitches of lead screw available, 2, 4, and 8. Which one should I get for this build?
Smoothieboard firmware for LinuxCNC on Raspberry Pi has been in development for the last couple of years. I've currently called the firmware "Remora" and will be releasing hopefully by the end of January. For those who want the most versatile / hackable platform, Remora will be interesting. Currenlty has open loop and true closed loop steppers along with all the modules needed for a 3D Printer or regular CNC machine.
Scott, I have found where to buy all the aluminum, but what are the cut lengths? BTW, this will be my first scratch build. I know that yours is based off a 300x300mm build plate, but I want to make sure I cut the 30x30mm and 20x20mm parts to the right length....well also how much to purchase in the first place!! haha I have watched all of your build videos... Can't wait to put this one together! THANK YOU Scott.
I'm really new to 3d printing, I'm looking to get a 3 d printer capable of making good looking rock solid consumer grade parts to be used for making custom headphone parts, such as the outer cups, headbands and rather complex 'aerodynamic' internal parts, including frames to which the speakers will be mounted. I have become interested in dual print head designs such as the flashforge creator pro, frankly I'm getting a little overwhelmed with the infinite choices there are in the 3d printing world. I've heard hood things about the prusha i3 and it's clones, I'm wondering what might be a good starting platform that's upgradable, this printer looks excellent and I love your upgrades, although it uses a single print head the quality of prints looks fantastic and I'm wondering if dual print heads are absolutely necessary for my requirements. I'm open to any recommendations and general advice, appreciate any replies. Thanks
I would love to see a video of your setup with LinuxCNC on the raspberry + Ramps + Arduino. Can't find good documentation anywhere... (and i am currently printing parts on my Anet for the Hypercube Evolution... Thank you a lot for sharing your design!!)
Hi Scott 3D. Love the work on the Hypercube Evolution. Thinking about making one (currently pricing out everything... trying to get the cost of the frame down). I have to ask what is the color/manufacturer of that PETG? I love the look!
I have been asked to help with assembling a Hypercube Evolution. Looking at this and your following videos, i believe that I may have enough information to set up the mechanicals. Bit wary about the belt and platform assembly though. I was informed that there were more detailed instructions on a wiki at hevo.wiki/ but the page just gives a 404 error. Do you know if the wiki still exists and are the any instructions anywhere about setting up the electrics? Be glad of any help.
using your excel file, setting 300x300 lists the 3030 aluminum to have different lengths. But if i select 300x310 the rods and extrusions are all the same length. Is that sounding correct?
a slower board will just perform the //exact// same moves as a faster board, its executing the same commands of /where/ to move not /when/ to move? even with 8 bit processors the bottle neck is motor step speed and extruder extrusion due to flow limits? (words of a mechanic, as i see it....open to being proved wrong)
looks like this project is for those who already own 3D printer, i want to build one but how to print that 3D parts when i don't have one? can epson printer print that plastic parts :) , since i can not print that parts i'm gonna build my first 3D printer base on flying bear tornado model with 400x400 build and triple extruder, some parts already arrived now i waiting another parts from Ali Express, the only thing that worry me is how to wire / connect 3D print electronics parts using 24v PSU
I really like this printer. Thanks for posting! I'm building something similar myself at the moment.. Do you have the .STP files available to remix? I'm also interested in Linux CNC. Do you have any links to people that do the same? I was going to buy a DuetWiFi to replace my octoprint/smoothiboard setup.
I have only released the stl files at the moment. I was running my Prusa i3 with LinuxCNC. The Geetech control board is running custom firmware which converts the board into a Modbus RTU and it looks after the IO and heater controls. Motion via a MiniITX computer and parallel port stepper system. Rock solid performance. My new system which is slowly coming together uses simple off the shelf cheap components. LinuxCNC on the Pi and custom firmware on the Due giving 6 channels of DDS stepper control at 80khz resolution, jitter free motion. IO and heater controls. 30 Mbit/sec data connection to the Pi so it should all be more than fast enough to run a printer. Just need to get it all finished. Too many projects....
I'd be also interested in that SPI Bus as i am building my own printer right now as well. And i am also using the Due + RADDS 1.5 combination as that has a good price/performance ratio. Would be really nice if you could share some things in the future!
Hello, your thingiverse page says something about a exel sheet? also im thinking (first stages, i did pricing for parts by estimation, 400~ sound right?) of building one. do you have a document of all the stuff you need? i see most on thingiverse but not frame size and stuff.
This is a great build on the original HyperCube! I had thought of similar mod for the movement axes, do you have any guess as to how much the size differences changed the print quality?
Yeah dual Z version will be best, was the first thing I thought I would add when I saw the hypercube design. Dont like it being supported in just one side.