A couple of points of note. The pad carrier on my daughters car had rust build up under the stainless steel anti rattle shims/clips which makes the new pads a tight fit. I generally spring these out and clean up the casting and the clips with a wire brush before refitting. In this instance I had a Ferodo pad set which included new shims/clips - luxury! I also had to heat the offside countersunk screw up with a blowtorch before I could get it to shift - (got to be careful around petrol), but it's so easy to destroy the heads on the screws trying to shift them with impact driver if they're really stuck.
I really like your video and also the way you are explaining everything top man. Dont know why someone choose to dislike the video. I am gonna change disc and pads on my cousins 16 plate car so wish me good luck Paul 👍
Hi, thanks for your very useful vid. Just done my daughter's I10. Think I got the same piston tool as you (Hilka), not really the right fit but managed to get by with a certain amount of blue air. Thanks' for taking the trouble to post.
Hi, my i10 is a 64 reg, is it the same as your vid? Oh and most impressed by your mech skills, very refreshing to see, hope the cowboys take note of your vid.
Thanks for the video, ive picked up the parts and will do the install soon. has anyone had a problem with pushing the piston back in too far? That parts guy warned me about this. Ive done many front brakes but not rear with a piston that turns clockwise.
Great video. My brake pads and discs have been replaced during the 5 year service last year, and I took it for the 6 year service and I have been told that they need replacing again and the calipers must be changed too. Am I right to assume that a caliper fault should be picked up during a brake pad replacement and full service, and brake pads and discs should last longer than 15000 miles?
You can also use a pair of thin handled pliers as a last resort, locate each end of the plier handle in the notches, hold the pliers using a twist/push motion, force the piston back while rotating it. Obviously easier with this tool but not difficult to do without the special tool.
I put new discs and pads on my i10 but could not get the brake piston to retract enough for all the chunks to slide back in place. I actually ended up putting back the old pads on the calipers. What was I doing wrong???
Caliper is probably knackered- I have this Nielsen tool and the small 3/8" drive "Cube" that has multiple pin combinations/sizes/shapes to use depending on manufacturer and I cannot get the OSR one to go back, I think mine is knackered as the wear on the disc inner surface is horrendous towards the centre and barely worn on the outer (but all pitted and rusted due to no contact)- I think the piston is jammed at an angle somehow hence the uneven wear.... new calipers in the post....
Late to the party I know, but don't forget axle stands. I was cringing all through that vid just waiting for the car to fall on you when the jack failed.
Great effort, but lots of things missing here, you failed to remove and Clean the Brake Pad Carrier Pistons, you failed to Clean the Pad Carrier Runners and grease with Silicon, these Runners are actually the Rails that the Brake Pads run on when activated by the Brake Foot Pedal and most importantly you failed to adjust the Caliper Piston Travel and reset the Handbrake if working on the rear wheals., a little tip here, when using any compression tool to send back the Caliper Piston, simply put a tray under the wheal and release a half a turn the Bleed Nipple, So much easier as the force required to push the piston back is pretty much close to nil. Also a good idea to gently press down on the Foot Brake to allow the Piston to travel half way out, remover the boot from the top of the Piston and check the Piston is not rusted or damaged, replace boot if all good with a generouse helping of Silicon Grease, this helps repel water and stops the Top Edge of the Piston Rusting. Mr Spence Eng
Israel T. Hi, please post a video of you "just pushing them back". I would love to see it..... I am only trying to help others and don't suggest it HAS to be done this way. This is just a method that works.
Rear calipers with hand break mechanism have a screw inside so that the mechanism can self-adjust when the pads wear out. I believe you can't just push it back. It's different for front though.
