Every time I watch your videos i think of that part of the country, the Amish and Mennonite community's, Bird in Hand, The Dairy Farms, Penn State...old war memorials, Pocono Mts etc...used to travel over there a ton when i lived in NJ loved it, in Vegas Now. Nice diagnostics once again...
My dad used to have an 04 XG350 and there were always Airbag codes when the battery was low. Was a really reliable car, only killed batteries every 2 to 3 years and rusted badly.
**** Next time you think you have a heat related sensor issue, grab a can of computer duster a.k.a. "Canned Air", turn it upside down and spray the component you are troubleshooting...the cold gas comes out and freezes whatever you spray it on. Would have been interesting to see if the sensor came back when chilled.
I have watched sensors with heat related issues come back to life live on labscope just by dumping a handful of snow onto the sensor 😎 Canadian diagnostics 😉
IIRC Those older Hyundai SRS modules will permanently light the light until cleared via scan tool if the fault persists for 5 drive cycles w/o correcting itself. I believe the light will go out if the fault goes away and it didn't go through those 5 drive cycles yet.
If the problem occurred frequently, I would consider moving it off that water outlet/therm housing (heat source), however, at 17 years of service life, it doesn't warrant relocating the sensor.
Mine is mounted on transmission bell housing of my 06 Santa Fe, it lasted 10 years and replacement is showing signs of failure. Wiring limits placement, however, an aluminum heat sink with heat sink grease, may fit between with longer screw. Good observation tinkerwest! I'll be buying a Factory unit this time.
That SRS issue is due to the connection getting loosen. The connector is located under the passenger seat and there’s not much a slack in the wiring harness so as the seat is moved back and forth over the years, the connection gets weaker. There was a recall on this but the fix that dealer put in didn’t last long. So I came up with my own remedy and it’s been trouble free for many years. The fix is very simple: 1. Disconnect the battery 2. Take the seat off the mounting points. 2 bolts and 2 nuts. 3. Look for the yellow harness under the seat. 4. Disconnect the harness. Clean the contacts and slightly bend the male pins so they make better contacts. 5. MOST IMPORTANT - do not attach the harness back in its factory mounting point. Instead use a few zip ties to loosely hang it under the seat. This way the connectors will not be subject to the bungee cord effect whenever the power seat is being operated. Also, refrain from storing any item under the seat. Foreign objects tend to interfere with the harness. 6. Clear the code with a scanner or just drive around and the SRS light will clear itself. I have a 2001 model of this car and it’s been very reliable. It now has 267K miles on the original engine and transmission. I do my own maintenance and have wrenched on every nut and bolt on this vehicle. No rust problem either since it has never seen salt. This was the last generation of Hyundai vehicles that shared the platform with Mitsubishi. You’ll find a lot of similarities and even the Mitsubishi logo on some parts.
Wow another 2 bonus footages! Damn, ivan. You're on a roll! So simple sensor to fix that tach problem, wow. I think on gm vehicles, the tach signal is inside the distributor like the cam signal is some sort. Hope I'm right lol! Have not seen much of hydnai vehicles in your videos. But pretty cool to watch! Love the videos!
looked like it mounted on two raised posts and just open air underneath. so it probably wouldn't make any difference in that case and I imagine the current is very low, only driving the tach and ecm input.
A little off topic here but its been getting to me lately. I watch some of these other car repair videos and alot of them couldn't diagnose a bad coil let alone a module, they just replace it. The thing that gets to me is the comments. People commenting how amazing they are and wish they lived close to work on their cars. Then they b#tch about the good channels because they use to much high tech equipment. God for bid you say something because if you do your hating or dont know sh#t. I watched this guy diag a charging issue on a truck. He doesn't test the control or ground. He doesn't do a proper voltage drop on the positive but 2 mins in he's replacing the pcm wtf. I asked how he came to that conclusion and I'm the idiot. Sorry for the rant.
Their top product videos are all Scotty Kilmer. They should have picked someone else. Not inviting for me to buy one. Great video though and always nice to see your content Ivan.
I was subscribed to this channel for over a year was looking for it in my subscriptions list couldn't find it. For some reason I became unsubscribed. don't know what happened. I am now re subscribed.
This is happening with my '99 blazer tach is erratic engine hiccups then dies at low rpm/idle....coil current or ignition module or crank and cam sensors
Hey Ivan. That is a massive heat sink on the bottom of that sensor module. Maybe could have used some "heat sink compound between the block and the heat sink of the module (?) Might help on the transfer of heat.
So the computer was using the ignition coil current pulse for two measurements, ignition success events and calculated rpm. Sneaky lol. Surely a crank sensor would be better for rpm?
It wouldn't be able to do that since it needs to know engine RPM to know when to fire the coils, you'd have a chicken/egg problem!. Engine speed and position will come from the crank sensor.
I believe because it was a "common ground" for the circuits within the module. Had the ground failed the complete module would have been inoperative. That of course would be easily detectable.
17 years, milage and heat cycles unknown, safe to say it's got some miles on it, I'm torn about it failing one part of me thinks it's put in a good service life another part thinks wtf it's only 17 years old, either way nice diag
I suspect the problem is less to do with the heat created by the module, and more down to it being bolted to the cylinder head right next to the thermostat housing.
$50 part "ignition misfire sensor". Cool scanner...it moves rather fast compared to many well known brands. If they weren't so expensive, I'd buy one just to have for my vehicles to review whats going on even though a check engine light doesn't light up.
On my Dodge Stealth, the air bag (SRS) light came on when I turned on the ignition without the gauge cluster attached. The code it set? Something like "airbag warning illumination circuit fault." The only way I was able to turn it off was with the Chrysler DRB with Mitsubishi adapter.
My 2002 Hyundai accent (manual, 2 door, tl or gl idk its the base model) doesnt have a techometer. Its annoying because i have to figure out when to shift. After a while i can tell with sound i think buttttttt i really want a techometer. Is there a way to get one and how much would it be?
@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics google leads me to ones that i have to mount, i know the automatic version of my car has a techometer but google wont tell me if i can buy one of those and replace mine with it
This was the era when Hyundai/Kia weren’t building the best cars but this car could very well need a tune up there’s no telling how many miles are on it
A seafoam treatment via the Throttle Body could help clean the years of carbon buildup on the valves and cylinder head. The elderly gentleman probably drives it too soft thus never burns the yunk out.
