I ALMOST BURNED DOWN MY SHOP!!! 

You could add thermostat or a simple temperature switch to stop it from overheating also a good thing for safety

I would add a knob to turn it on and adjust intensity, Temperature sensor with read out, light to indicate its on, and a built in circuit breaker.

I know this is a woodworking channel, but wood feels like a really questionable material choice for this tool, especially with how much fire fuel is packed really densely in your shop. You already had one dangerous situation with this tool sitting on an all-wood workbench. I would put more effort into mitigating the fire hazard here.

Definitely add aluminium insulation between the back of the lamp and the wood! Maybe add some to the flat bed base?

You should add the switch like you said, and a timer to get consistent results as efficiently as possible

nice build... 👉I would recommend adding a few things: 🕐a pilot light as a visual indicator when it's on; 🕑a beefy SPDT switch to turn it off; & 🕒a rheostat to control current flow & temp (better yet, a PID temperature controller so you can specify your desired target temperature) would definitely be a nice upgrade ... 👉 closing it up into an oven with insulated foil boards & a front "curtain"/door would also be prudent so you don't waste energy radiating unwanted heat into your workshop when you're using it. ✌cheers! & looking forward to your next adventure!

in screen printing we have the same kind of constant high heat so we can "gel" the ink up and lay the next color on the garment. This makes shops really really hot, so they made the same thing but where the heat source strobes a couple times til the ink gets to the proper temp usually 3-5 seconds. This keeps shops much cooler! I know in painting vehicles they use a similar thing. these are called "Flashes". maybe for the Dgripper 6900 you could look into those.

Make the end pieces for the top a bit wider. This will raise the top rails away from the heat source and you will still have your “shelf”. I might also want a fire extinguisher close by…. Just in case 😁

nice, lucky you caught on pretty fast with those wires. was thinking, you reckon you could simply put the lamp onto an arm, like the camera jig? that way you can degripp wherever in the shop. could be called degripper5k2go

wonder if you could add like a push button timer to it, with an alarm. like those sandwich toasters they have at subway. lol

You’re building an EZ-Bake Oven on steroids out of wood? I hope you have a fire extinguisher or plenty of marshmallows handy! 😅

Surprised you didn't make a sheet of plywood out of boards, and then made this out of it lol Great video

An on/off switch definitely and I would put a timer you can switch on before you turn the unit on. You can set the timer to thirty seconds or forty-five seconds or whatever you need so the unit will only be on for as long as it needs to be on.

I loved the old one just BECAUSE it was so improvised but i see that the new DEGRIPPER 5000!!! has many benefits!

Kinda like building a wood burning stove out of wood.....

an amp nob instead of a switch might help the over heating.

You could make a vacuum clamp for holding the skateboard stil wile de-gripping. I think it will make the process more ergonomic having 2 hand free. Plus DIY vacuum clamps make grat RU-vid content.

This would have made making my recent stool waay quicker than using a heat gun and a paint scraper to get the grip tape off. I'll be building this soon, cheers mate!

I think a few things that might help this yes definitely adding a switch, but also an aluminum top with vent holes in it that also has a small fan mounted inside to pull out some of the hot air that builds up above the light. Then you could add that platform above it since it will then be shielded

The Degripper 5000 V2. This keeps the awesome name to an awesome device and pays respect to the V1 model.

BEN BE CAREFUL!!!! I love your channel and I do similar woodworking with skateboards and veneer lamination. Since you're probably using skateboards mostly from unknown manufacturers and don't know what adhesive they used in their lamination process, you should be careful and breaking down the bonds between the individual layers in the skateboard. As long as you're not overheating the board AND making your cuts shortly after, you should be fine. Just wanted to give you heads up, I've had projects delaminate like that on me before and it's a pain in the ass.

you are pushing 18A with that heat lamp.. Code requires 12, or 10 AWG wire from the backend side (from breaker to plug itself). Using the correct wire size is important, but you are also at the limit for the circuit. You would be better off finding a 220V heating unit and run it off 220 if you have a shop plug, or a dryer plug (assuming you have either available). If you have to run it on 110, as someone else mentioned, drop a temp control unit into it, and ramp the temp down. A constant 18A draw is likely to trip the breaker regularly.

I was thinking if you want a lid on it, get some expanded mesh, chicken wire, something along those lines, it can take the heat and gives you a flat surface.... Maybe a variac(spelling)( variable power supply) to control the heat?

i think a better design would be to have the heater on the bottom upside down, then have a grill above it at a set distance. That way the heat all come right out and up. I dont know if those infrared heaters are made to be left horizontal facing down like that. For paint curing they are often mounted on walls. plus a conveyor belt and hopper would help reduce the chance you miss-time and melt a board. Just load the hopper, hit go, and it feeds them all in and out at the perfect rate. either way, a metal grill over the top would be best for allowing heat to escape but also preventing someone touching the very hot lamps.

You should think about installing a audible alarm that sounds every 30 seconds or however long it takes for the heater to melt the glue to enable the removal of the board's skin's. This way when you're busy and distracted by other jobs the alarm goes off stopping you from burning down the workshop etc.

Man to build that out of wood just seems seems so flammable. Metal casing like a toaster! also would be great if it only turned on if there is scoreboard under it incase you ever leave inadvertently without unplugging/turning it off

Talk about a cheese pull, effortlessly pulling gripe tape, you will have a lot more time on your hands ;) and no need for sanding

I do not have the attention span to use such a tool. I would definitely start a fire. Also it seems like there is nothing wrong with most of the boards. I can’t believe people are scraping them.

Combustible materials like wood have to be minimum 10” from a heating source depending on how hot it gets. You have to insulate the shit out of the entire frame holding onto that light.

Shouldn't it be called the DeGripper 5000 Mark II ?

I'm voting for a potentiometer and a junction box with a switch.

Adding an auto switch off timer would improve th safety as well.

Maybe a timer? As you could burn your shop down by leaving a board under the lamp for too long

needs to be wider, that top needs taller and to be open. it expects a place for the heat to escape, which is up. still dangerous, probably less dangerous than your last one, but this is definitely sketchy

Nice upgrade! Nothing can stop the degripping now!

this is the real degripper 5000. I think you only had the degripper 500 before lol

Would be much safer made from metal and upgrade to 10 gauge wire…

Almost need a timer so you know how long is perfect amount in heater.

Enjoy your process... but I think a name change is required :) DEGRIPPER 5000.2 or DEGRIPPER 5002 or DEGRIPPER 5200 since it is the second version... just sayin :) be well be safe and don't burn the shop down

it's supposed to be 9000 since the 5000 already exists

From the comments, it looks like you are going to need a hand rail. ❤

You could add a thermostat or make it easy with a timer set for just right

Tbh, I liked the ‘automated rolling in and out’ system of the old degripper. Also, you’re no longer going to workout your forearms rolling the tape. Too many positive sides of the old one. 😉

Safety first … nice job.

Definitely upgrade the top with a fire resistant insulated material like a fire blanket. That way the wood won't be exposed to the heat and it will be safer. And add a switch!

1:37 - I think that would b "Infrared". Interesting video nonetheless

What about mounting the skateboards vertically? You can fit 3 or so at once. 2 at least for sure

Not sure if it would have reduced the heating power a little too much but you could have also wired the heating elements in series rather than parallel for the the prototype. Otherwise, great video as always! Keep up the good work!

That's a great evolution 🤙🏼

Use 3D printer instead of wood

Great video. Nice design. A heat lamp is a nice tool to have in the shop. Mahalo for sharing! : )

Loving the way DG-5K v2 turned out

you lost me at "taking it out"

use a variac to vary the temp

DG5K2.0 - I dig it.

12:59 And glue fumes!!

I like it! Since you're looking at a switch, and are also concerned about things baking too long, maybe there's an option to add a timer like a toaster oven?

il faudrait que tu canalise la chaleur pour ne pas perdre d'énergie ;)

Do not cover the top

Degripper 10,000

De-gripper 5000 mk2

I’m with ya brother ✊🙌🤙

What I love about this project is the choice of material. I mean, to support and shield a lamp that reaches 400° (I think that's what you said), what could possibly be better than flammable plywood, right? No matter that you prevented your workshop from burning down - this new device will surely finish that job for you, especially as there is no timer or other safety feature.

Munk used to date a lady named dee gripper. Man oh man !!!

I know you’re recycling the skateboards, but damn that’s a lot of work. Almost seems like ordering cheap new blank decks would be more time/cost effective then spending so much time taking old grip tape off.

First