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I bet you didn't know this about footwork for climbing! 

ROAP Coaching
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Most climbers are unaware of the application of pressure through their feet. We know this as we have worked with thousands of climbers over the years in person and remotely.
Your heel position has a huge knock-on effect to the rest of your body. Yes, we have ankle flexion that can combat some of it (i.e. standing on slabs), but most of the time, climbers drop their heels, which pushes their knees and bum away from the wall, putting more weight onto their hands and forearms.
On a positive foothold, you need to push more through the big toe. Shoes are typically designed to aid this, meaning if you lift the heel a little, you will get more pressure through your toe which will lead to more confidence and trust.
As well as this, it will help you activate and engage your core, meaning any drive from your feet will have a positive effect, rather than pushing your bum out from the wall.
Ever found yourself flying miles from the wall when trying a dyno? You probably had low heels and your feet were too front on.
On the flip side, if you're faced with a sloper or smear, then dropping the heel is important to maximize surface area.
Learning to play around d on both types of holds is crucial to furthering your understanding and advancing your movement awareness.
Have fun trying!
If you've not watched our video on precise and accurate footwork, please click here: • Footwork for Climbing
Big thanks to @GalenPeterson for the filming and editing and for @movementgyms for allowing us to film in their Baker District gym in Denver.
If you are interested in training with Robin O'Leary & Alex Puccio (ROAP), please check out www.roapcoaching.com/personal... for more info.

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1 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 124   
@kshushechka
@kshushechka 3 месяца назад
These are the best climbing technique videos I have ever seen. Huge thank you for making them!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад
Thank you so much More coming your way soon!!
@stephenallen9532
@stephenallen9532 Год назад
I really appreciate how you break down the mechanisms behind good footwork here. Super interesting. Have you considered doing a video on the mechanisms of toe and heel hooking?
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks Stephen - yep, both filmed and on the way. Foot matching is next, then heel hooking, then toe hooking after that one :)
@christianvollenhoven
@christianvollenhoven Год назад
As an alternative, as a trad climber it can be equally important to try and keep your calves fresh, so constantly keeping your heels high isn't ideal. Learning to move with less heel engagement is really important
@christianvollenhoven
@christianvollenhoven Год назад
Of course, calf pump isn't a consideration for bouldering and sport climbing
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Absolutely. I think we touched on crack climbing and multi-pitch climbers not specifically focusing on this as much, that said for cruxes or shorter, more intense trad it still applies.
@Captain-Jack-Climbing
@Captain-Jack-Climbing Год назад
Oh yeah baby!!! Another must watch episode.❤
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
YAAAAS! Thank you Changyue!!
@tuzeituzei
@tuzeituzei 3 месяца назад
This is super helpful for beginner like me who doesn't have a coach or climbing peers to learn from, and usually don't know what to do when get on the wall 😭 Can't wait to get back to the gym and do the practice that I learnt from this video!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад
Glad it was helpful and let us know how you get on. You'd be Surprised how many climbers who climb 5.13 and V10 (and above) who don't know how to activate their heels well. It's something that, if you fix now, will be huge in your climbing! Good luck and thanks for watching!
@Stanginsean281
@Stanginsean281 Год назад
Been climbing for a handful of years~v7 indoor climber and I’m still learning a ton in your videos! Awesome work educating everyone of all levels. You’re explaining why I do things that I didn’t quite understand the reason I was doing it. Nice videos!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Great to hear and thank you for the kind words. Looking forward to helping you further your climbing and increasing that grade!
@ranknarlmarg
@ranknarlmarg Год назад
This is the best footwork video I've seen to date - great teaching! Thank you!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Wow, thank you for the kind words. Stay tuned for more.
@Harry-mr3mn
@Harry-mr3mn Год назад
this video is excellent, much better and helpful than many other training videos
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks, glad you found it better! 😃
@ezequielmaquieira1234
@ezequielmaquieira1234 Год назад
Great video! Please keep on with footwork!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks @Ezequiel, we will for a few more vids for sure!
@0RANGOTANG
@0RANGOTANG Год назад
Great video, glad your channel was recommended
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Ahhh, great news. Thank you. Many more vids to come
@jamjam98765
@jamjam98765 Месяц назад
Fantastic instructional video! I am learning so much from your videos. Thank you!!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Месяц назад
Thank you so much, glad you’re finding it helpful! We appreciate your support
@bassmeets9852
@bassmeets9852 Год назад
Super clear and to the point great video
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you, much appreciated. Many more videos coming your way!
@TheT3nchi
@TheT3nchi Год назад
Awesome, I've been looking for a video about applications of pressure when I'm climbing. You did a fantastic job of explaining the concept! Keep up the great work man. Looking forward to other videos.
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Excellent, glad you liked it and thank you for your kind words. Yep, excited to release more :)
@smurf9857
@smurf9857 Год назад
Another excellent video. Really enjoying the series
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you so much! We are excited to grow, learn and produce more content. :)
@chrish7779
@chrish7779 Год назад
Really enjoyed it and a good reminder of one of my biggest faults. Looking forward to the next vid.
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks Chris!! Looking forward to showing you the next few too.
@elmirganibegovic1287
@elmirganibegovic1287 Год назад
So helpful. Awesome explanation of a seemingly simple concept but genuinely never talked about in this way. That step analogy was SO useful. Thank you!!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you Elmir! Yeah, it's hard to actually try to disengage your core as we are so in tune with keeping it active in our daily lives. But this is the kinetic knock-on effect of dropping your heels on positive holds. I hope it helps with your training/climbing.
@JoMoClimber
@JoMoClimber 2 месяца назад
This is excellent and very helpful. Thank you!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 2 месяца назад
Thank you for the kind words, for watching and your support! We appreciate it
@AamirTime
@AamirTime Год назад
So informative and explained in a great way. Will be trying the footwork this week. Thank you.
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you Aamir, hope you will find it helpful.
@Damien2745
@Damien2745 Год назад
Great video!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you Damien. Stay tuned for more!
@user-oc8tc1lz8h
@user-oc8tc1lz8h Год назад
very nice breakdown. thanks!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you!
@islamistai
@islamistai Год назад
Keep Up The Good Work
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks, will do!
@user-jb7db2lt1m
@user-jb7db2lt1m Год назад
Please keep doing man. I promise i will keep watching your videos. very clearly describe and shows . I am a beginner climber , and you give the knowlage that i will be use tommorow. Thanx
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you, and we will. Hopefully try to stick to at least 1 video each week. Stay tuned for more Alex too :)
@badgolim
@badgolim 9 месяцев назад
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, never saw the explanation for different footholds 🎉
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 9 месяцев назад
Awesome, glad it was helpful, thanks for watching and the comment!
@constanceelaine3909
@constanceelaine3909 Год назад
Excellent and very helpful technique explanations!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you!
@slapthesloper
@slapthesloper Год назад
Love the more analytical approach to these videos compared to the many other footwork videos on here. Applying these tips however becomes much more complex on steeper terrain because driving the knee forward and hips up changes your body position on hand holds especially if they aren’t incut. Another video addressing how to not just push yourself up and out with your feet but instead create tension between hands and feet would be great
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Absolutely! It’s n the agenda very soon. A few more footwork vids to get through and then we get to play with body movement which is when it gets really fun.
@marks3440
@marks3440 Год назад
Love how the step off illustrates the footwork mechanic and the importance of adding in exercises like glute thrust and RDL to a routine. Also wanted to add I’ve been doing my RDLs with a ‘landmine’ set-up which allows you to press up on the balls of your feet to complete the rep. Really enjoyed this video!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Great exercise!!!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Great set-up and exercise!!!
@erichuifitness
@erichuifitness Год назад
Can’t wait for some climbing drill videos. Learned a lot here
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Yes! We can’t wait either. Coming very soon
@frankiedonofrio5438
@frankiedonofrio5438 Год назад
Great No Nonsense Video!!.........Subbed
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you Frankie!!
@hb51015
@hb51015 9 месяцев назад
Excellent info and teaching! Thank you 🙏 liked and subscribed ✅
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 9 месяцев назад
Brilliant, glad you like it. Thanks for the like, comment and subscription
@dannythwaites1318
@dannythwaites1318 Год назад
Great video keep it up. This may just help me get my first V7 where my feet have been slipping on a poor foothold
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Well, we certainly hope so! Report back if it does and let us know what other areas you want us to focus on!
@hollywaller1265
@hollywaller1265 Год назад
Very nice explanation, much better than the videos that just say "drop your heals you'll stick better". I love that you talked about the position of the ankle changing where your centre of mass is, so many people miss that! One slight change I'd make to the explanation (coming from a physics background) is that the surface area has nothing to do with friction, to get the maximum friction the force you apply to the hold needs to be at 90 degrees to the surface. So for the small positive holds which have a horizontal lip, your foot is above them as you described so that the force is at 90 degrees to the hold, for the slopers you drop your heal, which brings the hips out and the force is again applied at 90 degrees to the surface. The actual surface area in contact doesn't matter, just the direction of force. (this is still the best video I've seen out there and is incredibly useful) =)
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Hey Holly, you’re absolutely right. It is all about the force going through it the area. When explaining this principle to less experienced climbers, we’ve found teaching them about maximizing surface area initially is easier for comprehension and then discuss forces and the application of pressure subsequently, but you are absolutely right.
@hollywaller1265
@hollywaller1265 Год назад
@@roapcoaching917 That makes perfect sense! Good to hear the reasoning behind it, there's so much going on when you're learning that I presume (for most people) a physics lecture isn't what they're looking for
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
True, but we do love that element - perhaps we can do a video in the future talking physics!!
@tpa3437
@tpa3437 8 месяцев назад
I was curious about this statement as it contradicts all the common climbing knowledge basicaly lol. But doing some research seems like surface area does in fact matter for rubber. Lots of infos I found talked about tires and race cars but the conclusion is that the high school/college formula and experiment with flat volumes sliding on top of each other with a mass attached does not apply to the situation of car tire or climbing shoes.
@hollywaller1265
@hollywaller1265 8 месяцев назад
@@tpa3437 I agree that high school physics is no where near enough for this, the physics of racing tires is particularly interesting! So many variables! I gues the main problem with rubber is that it's so bendy, so you get more than 1 type of friction. Its a wonderful subject 😃
@evmarekaj
@evmarekaj Год назад
Thanks for the tips I've only recently started getting the hang of sloppers so this will help. Also if you read this if you can give tips on how to do foot holds when climbing with your back facing the ground that would be appreciated. I am slowly figuring it out myself but it takes a lot of trial and error.
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
I.e. roof climbing? An episode is coming on this :)
@kayakacmaz7038
@kayakacmaz7038 Год назад
waiting on next one📍
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks, next one is on the foot match :)
@chuckz28
@chuckz28 Год назад
Wow this might be a game changer for me. Explains a lot of my issues
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
We hope do Chuck!! Let us know
@androidyusufylmaz2465
@androidyusufylmaz2465 Год назад
Nice video product❤️💙❤️💙❤️
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you!
@enesberkekara3263
@enesberkekara3263 Год назад
Best ever🔥
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thank you!
@PRO-ro7re
@PRO-ro7re Год назад
perfection 🔥🔥🔥🔥
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks
@hiiten1
@hiiten1 Год назад
Awesome video! So when placing a foot on a small positive hold, do you typically want to place it with the heel already up, or would you place it with the heel around parallel, pushing into the toe and lifting the heel once you’re ready to stand up to the next hold?
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Great question. Place with heel low to roll onto the toe and then apply pressure accordingly. The biggest recommendation is to play around with it. You don’t want to just focus on lifting the heel, but applying the suitable pressure. If you’re really drilling down you’ll need a higher heel, but a positive hold needing less pressure will warrant a slightly lower heel.
@Aprokt
@Aprokt Год назад
nice!💝
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks!!
@giovannisarti5564
@giovannisarti5564 Год назад
Low heels are for long slabs, high heels are for steep terrain
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Depending on the actual foothold, but in a nutshell
@sketchag7048
@sketchag7048 Год назад
This has always made sense as when youre using a smeared foot it really only works when your hips are really far from the wall, but how do you engage a dropped heel when the hand is very slopey or going for a dynamic move where getting you body closer to the wall will make you feet slip?
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Great question. The smear is a great example and as a supporting or driving leg it can create a lot of energy which has to be harnessed by technique throughout the rest of the body - be it the other ankle/foot, knees, hips etc. with slopers you will obviously have to be below it for maximum efficiency and bringing your hips out will worsen optimal directional force. At times like this, our ankle flexion is incredibly important in helping us keep hips closer to the wall.
@joolsgrommers1466
@joolsgrommers1466 Год назад
The driving up of the heel for the more positive footholds feels very much like something I've been missing. Trying it now and feel like I've had a bit of an epiphanette. Any drills that you'd recommend to make this more intuitive? I've been trying ti add this awareness to my warm ups, but its easy to loose sight of. Thanks!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Yes, practicing this in your warm-up routine on easier ground is crucial. Essentially, on larger holds and vertical walls, where you can really focus on perfect movement. Start low, place the heel, then try to keep the hanf=d low to help you pivot over the pivot point (heel). Obviously drilling one legged squats (TRX assistance) helps too.
@zumbet6476
@zumbet6476 Месяц назад
Ojooo supernicee
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Месяц назад
Appreciate it, thanks for watching!
@shyamvasanjee3877
@shyamvasanjee3877 Год назад
Does curling toes with raised heels ( non-slopey foot holds) and spreading toes with dropped heels (slopey foot holds) add more pressure on feet when climbing?
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Good question. If you can do this, your shoes are probably too big
@Cardsandstoagies
@Cardsandstoagies 10 месяцев назад
With really small edges, the smedging technique, which contradicts everything you said, even if the holds are positive, you want to drop your heel to have the positive edge of the hold catch on the sole of the shoe, not the edge. This footwork technique brought me from 5.11+ to 5.13.
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 10 месяцев назад
A smeary edge? If there is an edge, even if it is 5mm, you'll need stiff shoes and a positive angle. If it is a smear, you drop your heel.
@skyltdockan
@skyltdockan Месяц назад
Does it also help to twist the heel into the wall? This brings the leg closer...
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Месяц назад
Absolutely, depending on the move. Ankle articulation really helps bring the hips closer to the wall. Obviously if you’re in a position that requires you to be front on, then it’s less effective. But with drop knees, absolutely!!
@kylezwarich
@kylezwarich Год назад
Hey! How does this work for little knuckle holds (you know, the little nubs that maybe don't have the +'ve lip, still extruded, but not exactly a -'ve sloper hold)
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Like a chicken head?
@nilsp9426
@nilsp9426 Год назад
0:11 the automatically generated subtitles went mad there
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Oh really? Funny, annoying?
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Just saw it!!! NOT a good auto subtitle!!! Sorry
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Adjusted - thank you for highlighting this!
@hasanbasripektas945
@hasanbasripektas945 Год назад
You are literally god 😍
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Haha, I'll tell him!
@Ingeborgk91
@Ingeborgk91 Год назад
Drink every time he say "on the flip side"
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Haha - I think you'll have fun on the next video too. One team drinks on OK and the other on SO!
@maxfinn3085
@maxfinn3085 Год назад
not sure i love the mic you're using here. sounds a bit blown out.
@khakicam5400
@khakicam5400 Год назад
He's 3 videos in, give the guy a break.
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks, changed to DJI mics! We thought the same
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Haha, we like constructive feedback though
@jerrykuo8736
@jerrykuo8736 Год назад
My man you need a new mic. But otherwise a great video!
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Hi Jerry, yes, the first 4 videos were filmed with Rode, but we switched to DJI mics following which have been far better. The feedback is appreciated though.
@hsonp_h
@hsonp_h Год назад
Friction is independent of surface area. The amount of rubber you’re using on your shoe is irrelevant.
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
True, it is the application of pressure through the contact area, but this is a video to help people understand easily.
@pennernderpenner
@pennernderpenner Год назад
That is only true as long as the materials are not being abraded.
@veglord4481
@veglord4481 Год назад
Man that mic makes you sound like you need to do some cardio :D
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Haha - probably does need to ;) We've changed to DJI mics now
@veglord4481
@veglord4481 Год назад
@@roapcoaching917 Sorry for nitpicking. Clickbaitey titles turn me into a hateful man. Really. Dont we all need some cardio haha. I must say you keep pretty good quality for such a fresh channel. Good luck.
@DrSenorFishTacos
@DrSenorFishTacos Год назад
Overall, great video, but it feels a bit verbose at the moment. There aren't logical points for me, as the viewer, to pause and reflect on the content being presented. Might I suggest breaking the video into chapters that include the content you aim to each followed by a single slide that consists of 3-4 bullet points which convey the key takeaways? There is currently a lot to digest and apply from this 11 minute video. I realize y'all are still in the early stages of this channel, so just some food for thought in terms of future editing. Also, I recommend making use of socials such as reddit's /r/climbharder sub to signal boost your videos, and also solicit for future video ideas. Good luck.
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Thanks for the feedback, we can make them more bitesized for sure!
@DrSenorFishTacos
@DrSenorFishTacos Год назад
@@roapcoaching917 also, I would urge both Alex and Robin to think about how you plan to differentiate the content on this channel vs the dozens of other climbing channels out there (lattice, hoopers beta, Hannah Morris, etc).
@roapcoaching917
@roapcoaching917 Год назад
Yes - this is absolutely in the pipeline. We obviously want to focus on some basics as there is a demand here and many of the topics that have been covered by other brands have failed to do so with enough accuracy and detail - so some of this won't be new in terms of "topics" but hopefully in terms of content. That said, we have many videos lined up which no-one has covered yet, which is exciting and we will very shortly lean to you, the viewer to share with us what content you want to see as well - feel free to share this with us if you want to.
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