I have a 6.0. Get some gear head tunes for it.i run a 8000lbs tune on mine when I'm not running a hot street tune. Opens it right up. And you'll have a fast truck. I also use Rotella T6 oil in mine with Motorcraft filters. Just some love from a 6.ohshit owner. Haha.
@@braydenmcd3859 yeah no shit but in the videos it looks like he is on the passenger side. I really feel like i shouldnt have to explain to you what a joke is
It almost sounds like you got fuel knock and a miss. id check injectors, betting you really need a new set, especially with how dirty the engoine is and how bad that EGR valve was. kinda looks like it wasnt maintained properly
The whole fucking point. Noone cares about someone buying a perfectly good car. Fixing them makes good content calling them garage and everything just his thing. Its his garage but he's fixing it up so it be garage for long.
Hahaha the world record 6.0L makes over 1800 hp. And probably double in tourqe. Lemme see your 6.6L do that. Cummins is always great but you can only go so far. Also powerstrokes dont blow up if you lose oil or oil pressure
@@lar7922 nope, WD made a post on his backup insta that freed has been talking shit abt him and he thought they were cool. Idk where the shit talking is happening
No the best yet is when Cody mocks other youtubers that tell their audience to subscribe. I think I know who that is referring to now lol no hate Clayton
Hey, the problem with the truck not having any power, you need to get the Speedo working, otherwise the truck will not fuel correctly! I have dealt with this problem multiple times on different trucks. Most likely cause rear wheel speed sensor on differential...
Hey Clayton I have a 7.3L that was slow as crap. Before I upgraded injectors, turbo, exhaust, and all the works on it I just ran a tuner on it and it made a huge difference!
Probably needs an injector, that’s why it cold starts like shit and is slow. Mine barely went anywhere when it had a bad injector and sounded just like that one.
Run some Archoil through it,the spool valve in the injectors will stick from time to time from the tight tolerances in there. New glow plugs and switch to Schaefer synthetic oil will help big time👍🏻
I did the same thing but I used a hot gun gun and some crazy glue on mine but mine lose again after about a year because I had to move the line to get to the negative battery cable
I run rotella t6 5w-40 with archoil oil additive, and fuel additive in the fuel system, and it's really helped with cold starts. I heavily recommend those products if you own a 6.0 powerstroke. As well as other people have suggested an SCT programer to bump its power up.
Glow plugs and harnesses. Get rid of that tall oil filter cap, and go back to oem. High quality oil. Make sure it's deleted. And get a good tune. You need to tune the Trans as well on these things.
@Brady Meyer we weren’t forgetting the Duramax..... 6.0L-7.3L are the top two best, then 12v-24v Cummins, then 6.7L Powerstroke and Cummins, then a Prius, then a Duramax......
You’re exhaust back pressure sensor isn’t working right I can tell by the way the truck was acting in the last clip building way too much boost then the turbo sounded like it was unplugged. Replace the sensor
I feel like whistling diesel personally called this channel out especially the “follow the Instagram or your stupid” comment😂😂😂 not gonna lie it does seeeeeeem similar especially the titles, he talked about it in his last vid and the shoe fits
Hey man, love that you got a 6.0. Ive been working on them for years. I have a shop about 35 minutes from you and can help you get that thing in tip top shape. You really should be using motorcraft fuels and oil filter. Youll have to get a oem cap to run a oem filter to. I keep those in stock and have some shaeffers oil in stock as well. Also could scan the codes and see if you have glow plug codes. If you have 2 or more it could be the glow plug controller (located above the passenger front valve cover), its also so quiet because you have the stock down pipe still on. Delete that stinkin egr.
As someone that’s had a few 6.0’s...it sounds like you should be prepared to do injectors and the o rings along with glow plug relays sooner than later. High pressure oil pump and a fuel lift pump depending on how big you wanna go on injectors.
I’ve got a question about EGR delete….. is it crucial to replace the EGR cooler? Or will a block off plate work? Or is there a preferred specific EGR delete kit?
@@dieselking9388 I like all the engines that people hate on like the powerstroke diesels both 6.0 and 6.4, the 4.7 powertech gasser if you haven’t noticed my icon that’s what’s in my truck, I like the 5.4 Ford V8, the old magnum dodge engines, ANYTHING Cummins, Hemi V8’s (if their cammed). The stuff I hate is the imports and that Chitty Duramax engines.
Clayton you better get that fixed I think my Prius would beat that truck I like it though it's a nice look what are you going to put on the back? If you sell the bed
Even my 1980 enticer 340 has oil injection. That's what made the older yamaha's stand out from the rest, I'm pretty sure Yamaha was the first to have oil injection sleds.
Defrost is vacuum related, check to make sure the vacuum pump is working if it is then you have a vacuum leak in a line. Mine was a bad vacuum pump. The lack of power could be its detuned but check your IPR % it should not hit 85% when starting. Also you need to get an OEM oil filter and OEM oil filter cap on there.
Not necessarily my old job use to make them they didn't always cut the cab only certain customers request that you do most just add an adapter plate to the rear window to have a peep hole to the ambulance module
Everyone here saying a stock 6.0 shouldn’t be that slow but 6.0’s stock really aren’t fast. It may be detuned from being a cab & chassis truck but I’d recommend at least getting a monitor to watch everything you need to watch. And if you’re down for it & it’s actually studded I’d have it tuned, that should make a decent difference right there.
Easy to tell if its studded go on drivers side in the engine bay look at the head you can do a quick google to tell what a stock headbolt looks like, and what a aftermarket head stud will look like
Heat only coming from the defrost has to do with the vacuum pump. The reason it’s so slow is probably cause it’s detuned from the factory. The vans with 6.0s are the same way so I’d assume the ambulances probably are too. They’re normally like down 150hp from the regular trucks
hey man, due to the recent events of you crap talking whislin diesel for that you've messed up, because he gave you so much and in return for that you just spat in his face for no reason.
LOL, I actually don't see it Matt? The "idiot" saying kinda belongs to him rather then Cody as he was the guy saying it all the time. The content although similar (Deisel Power, Trucks etc) is not the "go all out and destroy it" that WD goes for? I get the comparisons I really do, but sadly its 2 ex friends that right now are not getting along. Hopefully one day they can put it all aside and remember the "friends before business" moto. I wish them both great success but mostly no pain or suffering for either of them.
Happy belated birthday! I need a flat bed but my Piece O she it 97 f150 would be squatting and shooting sparks Front wheels in the air with that beast.
It's probably a stock motor but different body. If I remember correctly the ambulance models had the cab connected to the room in the back. So you would have to replace everything. But I could be wrong.
I don't know anything bout motor but i think your 6.0 burn some oil ... blue smoke (maybe a bad seal ) or a bad injectors... or maybe i am totally wrong and this is normal... The smoke should be white ... Why does it smoke blue when it cold instead of white ?
The heat only in the defrost means you have a vacuum leak. Which means your Auto 4x4 won't work and your vent selecter either. And it super slow cuz ambulance cab and chassis detuned down to 230hp 420tq. To save the head gaskets once they found out they were the problem.
Idk if you’re letting the glow plugs warm up or not. If you cant plug it in, cycle the glow plugs on and off 4 times. Each time wait until the curly q goes out and then after the fourth, crank it over. The plug in for warming up the engine block has a factory wait time of at least 3 hours but plugging it in even for half an hour helps.
The wires on the rear end on top of the rear deferential go to the speedometer break at the plug in and the sensor on the tail shaft on the transfer case gets covered in metal shavings and the wires break there also and the transmission is in limp mode without the speedometer and will make the truck a dog
