Your probes might be different than the ones I have but that hook end should pull off the probe and underneath is your pin probe. Just pull it off by the plastic that you use to expose the hook
The pin probe is mentioned several times in the comments, already. Additional: The spring belongs to the pin probe for HF stuff, connecting to a nearby solder joint as a ground connection. The usual ground connection (cable with crocodile clip) is not usable for this cases, hence it can pulled away from the probe. BTW: All grounds from the probes (and ground from the mains!) are connected together! Add: It is not a proper procedure to measure speaker outputs in relation to ground (chassis) of the voltage supply. Hence the DC coupled oscilloscope shows channel 1 with a 6V DC positive and the channel 2 with a 6V DC negative bias (indicators of the 0V line visible at the left border). And last, not least: Different signals on two channels is totally normal for a STEREO device. Only in MONO mode it will work with identical signals on both channels.
Thanks for the comment - pretty much figured all this out long ago. Yes, it’s fairly obvious that a stereo output will produce two different waveforms - when the audio source itself is stereo. I intend to use a MONO source. If this is in regards to the Bodysonic unit testing, the two outputs are supposed to be exactly the same. Two separate amps pulling from the same source.
I have heard of these...though I really don't know what they do, to be all-too-honest. I know though that you getting one is going to be interesting, because you are such a jack of all trades. I love your stories, your variety, and keep it up!
An oscilloscope graphs electrical current over time. For example, if you connect it to a wall outlet, the screen should display a graph depicting a sine wave that rises to 120v and falls to zero 60 times per second, meaning at 60 hertz. Being able to visualize an electrical current is very helpful when diagnosing subtle component failures, and for confirming a successful repair. In the case of my radio example, one of the amplifiers technically worked FINE, but the scope revealed weaknesses in one channel - which was quickly rectified by replacing all electrolytic capacitors in the amplifier - and confirmed repaired with the scope.
how curious, when you were probing at the scope's compensation signal, the line thickness appeared different on channel 1 and channel 2, in a similar manner to what an user on the eevblog forum experienced. you might want to look it up as "My Rigol DS1054Z has noise and beam thickness dependency of the vertical offset" and if it really is the same problem, maybe ask for a replacement, cause that shouldn't be how the scope behaves.
If you would like to RESET settings just use DEFAULT button and then that AUTO. But if you plan to always measure the same type of signal (same ref input signal cause same should give same view on output) then resetting ar auto should not be necessary after ON/OFF of oscilloscope (if it will save previous settings before shut off.
Howdy! I noticed you have the same desoldering gun (Hako FR-301) as I have. Since the FR-301 is the Japanese model it's meant to run on 100V instead of 120V. To get around this (and not to damage it) I run mine off a variable power supply to give it the 100V it calls for. I was just wondering if you were doing the same, or do you have a 120 to 100 volt converter?
@@bbishoppcm My FR-301 has a label stating 100V, 98W. A smaller label to the right (also containing the SN) says 'No. FR301-82'. I bought it a while back, but I do recall deciding to purchase the Japanese voltage model because it was a LOT cheaper than the 120V model...banking on just supplying it 100V through my bench power supply instead of springing for a step-down voltage converter. Granted, a 20V difference seems rather insignificant, and I'd likely be ok just plugging it in an outlet, but for what I paid for it, I'm not willing to take any chances. The thing that's weird, though, is that it has a standard 3-prong plug end, whereas the plug ends on Japanese voltage items omit the ground prong, so???
It's entirely possible that you bought a fake. The Chinese are actively selling knockoff Hakko equipment - you can contact Hakko directly and have them authenticate the serial number, as they have an entire department dedicated to this stuff. Mine says "120v" right on it. If it turns out to be fake, I wouldn't even chance it - throw it out and call it a "lesson learned."
I ONLY buy Hakko products from Hakko directly, or one of their listed resellers. It's not worth the risk. Even my Quick hot air station - a Chinese product - has its own Chinese knockoff! It's insane...
@@bbishoppcm I'm not ruling out a fake, but if it is fake, it's the highest quality knockoff I've ever encountered. Mine gets used HARD, to the point where I'm sure the warranty folks would consider it abuse if they knew how many ignored duty cycles and total hours it has on the 'odometer'. I just checked my receipt, and I bought it from a reputable (and still doing business) Hakko dealer in Japan in February of 2022. The total with shipping was $218, and for how great it works (and especially how hard I push it), I'm as happy as a clam in "you know" what, haha. It's one of those rare tool purchases that make you wonder how you ever got by without it! Sure, having to power it from my benchtop PS because it's a 100V Japanese version is less than ideal, but considering the 120V version was selling for close to $400, I'm still a happy camper at the end of the day having saved the better part of $200. But yeah, you're 100% right that there are lots of fakes running around out there. I just don't think I got one of them. The build quality and attention to detail all but rules out the possibility I got a fake. Plus, I just don't think a cheap knock-off would stand up to the overuse and abuse mine has to endure. A cheap fake would have kicked the bucket in the first few months...possibly even the first few days or weeks! Cheers my friend😄
Probaby easier to burn a 1khz tone to a cd. It will make measurements much easier. Burn it at as slow speed as possible, using an old pc if needed, 10x max to make it more compatible with older cd drives. Taiyo Yuden media are the most compatible with older cd players.
I just use an el cheapo function generator to 'inject' a 1khz sine wave directly into the input stage of the audio equipment I'm testing. If I don't see it at the output stage, I know I've got some work to do. Other frequencies work fine also, but I've found 1khz isn't too hard on the ears if you're also audibly monitoring the signal in addition to scoping it.
