A quick introduction to my new to me P38 Range Rover. A series of videos to follow. Please follow our socials: Facebook - / hipshowfarm Instagram - / hipshow_farm
You got a subscriber from Kenya. I like farmng and farming stuff. I currently own a 2008 sport...to me it is still one of the best designs in the Range rover brood.
I just bought my late grandads 1999 4.6 vogue! Loving the videos really informative and look forward to following you in your journey! My ABS lights on the dash but only on startup once it gets moving it goes. Reading up on it that’s fairly normal for these 😊
Great project, Been there. Now into 5th year of ownership ('51 4.0 Bordeaux) after following a well-trodden path of P38 of work to put things right. She now gleams, purrs and I wouldn't drive anything else. They just need looking after, (which most people don't). Keep it stock and sensibly OEM. Always watch fluids & filters, it's a trusted unit but is an aluminium engine. Any over-heating can be catastrophe. It's a 4.6 so even more important to ensure the liners on these beasts don't slip. Understand the BeCM. Many faults can be traced back to lockouts to this (what was ground breaking) super ECU. Get a readout to make sure the EKA code in the BeCM is the one you have been given in paperwork. memorise EKA code & the input procedure. Get both keys refurbished Les Edwards is the man (if you know, you...) Heating irregularities probably blend motors. Don't bodge it as some do, strip down dash (just screws) and replace. Clean blower motors & duct tape vent joints while you're there. That's also a good time to project manage a head unit change. Suggest you replace the heater box. The plastic warps with age & the modest blend motors catch, strain to move it. burn out, requiring them to be changed again. ABS light is meant to be on until you reach 10 mph. Headlining is possible DIY (£80-90). Oil leaks could be anywhere, rocker cover is favourite but also check front plate (known weak gasket & very important) covering timing chain. Stiff gearbox, likely fluids, flush, and replace. Replacing head unit for Sat Nav is tricky because, a) installation depth is very, very shallow. (450ish mm). Clean or possibly replace Mass Sensor. Cured my idling, improved mid-range pickup and gave an extra 1mpg to 19mpg. 😂 Don't listen to doubters, parts are cheap & available, easy vehicle to work on & nothing drives as comfortably, (except possibly an L322). Lots of very knowledgeable and willing support on web, Facebook etc. It's looks like a good one, just needs love. I would have bought it. My only criticism, get it back on air!!! All the best
Nice video Adam. It's honest you come across well I subscribed. Range Rovers are lovely cars to drive but you gonna need deep pockets and a lot of tools ! 😂 However, you are on a farm you've got the space to work on it. I look forward to seeing how it progresses.
If I recall on P38 ABS light stays on after start up and goes out when you set of and get a above a certain speed. Heater could be blender motor I think it’s dash out job on them to fix but can’t be certain as I never had that issue on mine. Service gearbox too, zf 4 speed if I remember very easy to service and change filter on, old but good gearbox. Hope that helps.
A great project Adam! I bought my P38 as a running project three years ago and it's been kind to me (so far). ABS light coming on at start up is normal, as long as it goes out when you start driving. Heater temp issues (and that spanner and handbook icon on the screen) will be seized blend flap motors, behind the dash, one each side. I need to do my passenger side one at some point. Enjoy and looking forward to the next instalment.
Keep it on this channel. I’ve just discovered your Chanel through this video and I’m sure others would. If there’s no evidence that the camshaft has been replaced, a top end refresh is worth doing (camshaft, followers etc). My 4.2 Classic averaged 13mpg when I first got it. After a full engine rebuild it now averages 18mpg, or 21 on longer runs. The engine was very tired and sludged up.
abs and brake lamp lights will go out when you reach 15km an hour, normal operation. if you get all three warning lamps on together replace the brake pump accumulator, black bulb shaped thing on top of pump.
I'm only a discovery sport owner and it makes my blood boil when people slag off Land Rover, my day Job involves me driving BMWs and Volvos and even though there new they break down all the time, u have a great motor there enjoy
Same here, iv had a few Land Rover and Range Rover products, freelander 2, disco 2, p38, current l322 and non have given me any more trouble than “normal” cars like Ford, Vauxhall and Volvo, all them have cost me more in repairs than and LR. If looked after there great vehicles with a lot of owner support in forums etc.
On my fourth P38 also have an L322, prefer the L322 but don't have the money these days for a classic or three door. Considering the issues I would say you have overpaid but prices have risen since I bought a tidy one. If it's a keeper then I wouldn't worry too much about the price you paid, you can polish some money into it, shame it's not on bags!
love mine it is only the 4.0 but they are fantastic cars if you take care of them and electrics are just down to lack of maintenance if it has air suspension keep it there is nothing better if you look after it
There are two fan sensors relays in the fuse box on the front left of your engine. That warning sign you saw with the (!) meant one of the fan fuses has been blown or simply not in place. It's a plug in relay.
Mate tbh the way the seller described it to me and what you got seem completely different, he described it as pretty mint. Honestly if I saw it like that I would of walked away. Seems expensive at £1950. You’ll get it fixed mate.👍🏽
Welcome to the world of P38’s. These do not really deserve the bad rep that they are getting. In the right hands, and with proper upkeep they can be quite reliable, and whole lot more car for the money than just about anything out there. Firstly, your car seems to be in a fair condition. 107k is not high mileage for these. Sagging headliners, and cracked plastics are very common, and not necessarily a sign of a hard life, just age related. Here are a few tips i can provide having owned quite a few of these. Get the keys sorted, these tend to lock you out, or disable the engine if the security system gets angry. Replace the cooling system (hoses, thermostat, radiator and waterpump. (Overheating due to badly maintained cooling systems are the greatest contributor to these ending up in the scrapyard). Replacing the waterpump is vital, as a worn bearing will cause the plastic cooling fan to shatter, destructing everything in it’s path. Also, air suspension is no hassle. These cars should be on air. Once rebuilt the system will be fine for 6-10 years. Having owned these on air and springs, i can tell you that air is the only way to go if you really want to experience the car for what it is supposed to be. Much better stability, much better ride.
Change the oil, frequently, use at least 15w40 (i use 20w50 as i am in a hot climate). Regarding your Hevac system blowing cold one side and hot the other, the cause is most likely the flap servos not functioning as they should, a common failure on these. The mixer flap servo and air direction servo are both accessible with the dash in place, but is a fiddly job, and requires the removal of some dash parts. While you are in there, replace the heater core o-rings as they tend to fail, causing coolant to soak the carpet, eventually resulting in the BECM (massive computer under the driver seat) getting water damage. Also check the heater core for leaks and corrosion. Alot of owners bypass the heater core on the engine side, but this is only practical in warm climates. If you don’t already have one, get a good shop manual for a P38 (RAVE manual). Another thing to check, fix is the PCV system, as this is a weak design, and they tend to block, messing up the idle, and causing valve cover leaks. The PCV oil separator is a stupid fiddly plastic part that is housed inside the pcv flange on the driver side cam cover. When you remove the pipe from the fitting, you will see the plastic part stuck inside the fitting/flange. Remove this, and fit a metal PCV valve on the plenum side of the pipe. Research this topic on google, plenty info there.
Hi I'm a Brit doing one up in South Africa for my agriculture project there Where can I buy the air suspension bags cheaply in the UK. Not the dealers please. Does autocarparts do them lol What's the best cheap OBD tool to buy for it Any ideas on m57 engine conversion at all? Thanks
I own a 01 p38 4x4 and it does break down little by little have it as a project rn but keep on posting more abt the truck fam I’m really interested in building it more
I’ve owned my 2001 P38 Diesel for 11 years now and I just love it. You should replace the EAS as they are not problematic at all if you maintain them. In my time of ownership I have replaced the air bags and the compressor, that’s it and it never causes any problems. You get a lot of people on the internet saying how bad they are but they have never actually owned one, just jumping on the slag off Land Rover bandwagon 🙄 Can you move this to a new channel 👍
Yes, changing the air bags is a relatively quick and easy job, There are lots of videos on RU-vid. I think the best OBD scanner is probably the hawk eye. You also need to change those horrendous aftermarket low hanging exhaust rear boxes that you have. Good luck and keep the videos coming 👍
Picky picky picky,,, for the price you paid in the condition you got a gold mine ,,,I wish I would be able to have those SUVs to pick from ,,,,staple the headliner in a unique fashion ,,,get some bleach scrub it up it runs great no faults on it,,,
I hate to be the bringer of bad news... I owned one a few years ago... (got it really cheap and it looked like a great deal). Literally everything breaks on these things. Apart from the airsuspension, the gearbox gave up and the cylinder liners slipped . The car only got 85000 miles. The symptoms are similar to those of a blown head gasket. Unfortunately, a complete rebuild was necessary. Even after a full rebuild, it never was a reliable car. They're also notorious for expensive electrical gremlins. In regard to fuel consumption : 12.5 MPG sounds about right . Keep in mind that back in the day, when it was new, this was an expensive car for people with deep pockets. Even if you get it for free, this will never be a cheap car. I hope you're more lucky than i was. IF they're working, p38's are wonderfull cars. One last tip : get a car insurance that covers towing.
