I Can Do That! Drawer Joinery 

Hello from Germany. I am 51years old and tought myself English. Since you do not speak so fast, i understand you and can follow your explanations. I like your page and download some of your video. that`s how i learn english and work with Wood. I hope you have nothing against the download.

I'm back again. Respectfully may I say to you that you are missing the beauty of these two 1/4, 1/4 set up. The beauty is to be using 1/2 thick stock and in that the SetUp NEVER has to be changed. To make the cuts that you just changed again the work peace is passed vertically through the router bit. Nothing ever has to be changed that is the beauty of this setup lap joint or mortise and tenon. This is a very old system I used as an apprentice in the '60s and still hasn't changed, until now. lol

When I saw your first video I thought it was too simplistic. As I got this on I found myself learning measuring, setup and layout that I was unaware of. Thank you for keeping it simple enough for me.

I notice that you have a push-block to keep the material to be cut flat on the table and moving forward. Even so, I noticed at 13:16 the material does rise up above the table anyway. This is something that I have also experienced in my attempts at woodworking requiring me to run my material thru the router a second time to make a complete cut. When i am using my router table to create a slot and not just a dado, my slots get cut uneven. I see here that this also happens to you; so i know i am not alone in this struggle. I have been looking at learning how to make drawers and i like the cabinet with drawers that you have made. Awesome. Thank you and best wishes.

Chad, I like the way you explain how you do things, straight forward and simple, how things are made in the real world. Keep up the good work.

Nice clear explanation of some basic joinery for basic drawer construction. Thank you Chad !

I've seen this joint demonstrated before, but the builder only used one set up on the stronger jointed drawer to make all the cuts. To avoid having to set up twice, he stood the end pieces up and cut the rabbit on the outside edge of the vertical ends. (the side away from the fence) It's a little trickier cut, but doable.

Rewatching this, showed me that when I hacked together a router table, the problem I was having, wasn't anything to do with my bit, just I needed to sand, where I had made my cutting. Thank you.

Finally!!! Someone that is using tools the average Joe is going to have. I think this is an excellent job of showing simple drawers for the beginner. A couple of comments. One, in the video, you seem to be catching the workpiece on the fence. Take a fine rasp and break the corner of the hole in the fence, this will cause a smother pass of the workpiece across the hole. Two, if you use type 1 for the drawer front and type 2 for the drawer back, you will get the strength of the draw you are looking for and you won't have to fool around with draw fronts. Again, this is an excellent job and video for some one just starting out.

Hello Chad; We are waiting for more great projects from you using that router table. I like your style and craftmanship. Please more projects

Very nice compact table with drawers :-) thanks Chad!

Thank you very very much for this project! I learn a lot from it! Sincerely thanks ;) I resized for my skil router, and worked fine!

I appreciate your thoroughness. Good video shots too.

Hey Chad, great job ! Looking forward to more.

Great video. I watched other videos that made my eye twitch before I found this one. You made it easy to comprehend. You have a fantastic teaching Style. Thank you.

Nice video - very clear. For the last rabbet on the front and back pieces, you could leave the router setting the same and stand the piece upright. Then you can cut all pieces with the same router setting.

i learned a new way to do drawers. thanks. looking forward to more videos

Lovely table. A great one to start with.

great method for drawer construction, I use it all the time

Thank you for sharing this video on rabbits. I'm a bit nervous as to doing this type of joint. Yes, I'm fairly new to the woodworking world and working on building a router table for my palm router. My first project is to finish some drawers for a table stand I am making for my table saw.

Excellent video. You are very patient and clear on your explanations. Thank you

Thank you so much for this video.You explained everything so awesome. I definitely subscribed.

Excellent video, I appreciate your effort and dedication. God bless you.

This bare-bones approach reveals a lot of woodworking technique that goes missing in other vids. And Chad is a much better instructor when he's not jumping around like a maniac.

Hah!! Paraffin Wax!! You just answered my question that I left on the router table build video. THANKS!

I was subscribed to Chads regular Chanel and always had a good chuckle. Never thought I'd see him be serious lol

Excellent narration,very cooool!

Very basic but I really like the idea of the setup using the bar to check for distance, Good job on the presentation, good ideas on using the square and checking all sides for the same distance to fence.

Nice video! Thank you.

Thanks for your video

thank you soooo much wonderful !!

Great work done keep it up

Great video!!!

Excellent video

Put small wooden pins on the side will keep the drawer front from pulling off. Do it in walnut so it looks nice.

These videos are the best!

I like the opening disclaimer about safety, and that you constantly remind viewers about it. There is no such thing as a safe machine. The only trustworthy safety device is the human brain. And it only works if you actually use it. I worked in industrial maintenance for thirty years. The first thing I learned is that machines have neither mercy nor morality. If they can hurt you, they will. Machines can supply the force. You have to supply the brains. I still have all my appendages, despite some near misses. The only way that happens of you are ALWAYS thinking about safety

Nice little table

For the drawer with the interlocking joint, the router table could be set up once to make all the cuts. For true 1/2" stock, set the bit 1/4" high and 1/4" from the fence. For rabbet cuts, run the pieces vertical using the fence. For dado cuts, run the pieces flat to the table. Installing a higher fence would help to keep stock perpendicular to the table. A series of test cuts would help to make sure the setup is accurate, but once set up the process would go much more quickly. For small drawers or for drawers that won't hold a lot of weight, 1/4" plywood would serve well for the bottom, reducing the number of router cuts.

The push block also kept the board flat on the table top after the piece went beyond the router bit. Watch the video you will see the short side of the piece lifting as it passes the bit.

muy buena la clase saludo de Venezuela

that is good & it is simple

@8:34 I noticed the board being cut rise a little, and I watched it again, the screw holding the plexiglass maybe wasn't countersunk quite enough on this one. Something to keep in mind and tweak to keep things flat. Nice table BTW.

I have had the oportunity to make the same router table and it has been so funny

Nice video...Tks

good job Chad I watch all your videos your a great teacher, keep up the good work

Thanks just bought my first router.

Saw the video, paused it midway, and subscribed. Your explanation of the steps throughout are exactly what I need. Looking forward to seeing more videos. Well done.

It looks like the weight of your router is causing the plastic plate it's mounted to to flex down making your table not flat. On the short pieces I could see the bit cutting deeper then intended. Besides that great technique. I like using bar stock the measure with.

Love the video sir! Question: Would that non-locking rebate joint be like a "quarter blind rabbit joint"? I'm kinda excited about seeing this joint made because I'm a beekeeper and most wooden bee boxes you see are a box joint But 50% of each board is exposed to the weather. And if you get confused during cutting the box joints you can ruin a whole board. And furthermore, I believe this is the joint for me because the math is easy. On a 3/4" board each shoulder would be 1/4". And only exposing 1 board's end grain at 1/4". It's perfect!😆

Hi Chad. Can you check the dimension for the drawer length on the drawing. I make it 11.5 not 12 as there is 1/4 at both ends which makes up the overall 12".

8:42 That screw in the router table is LIFTING the work piece off the reference table. THAT NEEDS CORRECTION!!!

I think this is a good demo with limited resources and economic sense, longevity of the after product and good finish

I still prefer my Table Saw and Dado stack for this operation. But good video anyway for the beginner as you do a good job of helping them to achieve this task even on a router table that is OK too.

badass!

Thank you

your screws are to high on your router plate!! I did the exact same thing on my router table I built. im probably way to late on the heads up. lol. but keep up the good work. the clear instructions are great for teaching!

I saw about a week ago a video with Chad using a rabbet bit on this router table, i think he was making a door frame maybe? I liked the technique he was using and some of the tips but now i can't find the video. Anyone by chance have any clue what video this was in?

A feather board is a must.

Why do you bother squaring the fence, or for that matter using the sled ? Absolutely not required, just use a bit of scrap as a backing/push block. Much, much easier and quicker.

Inspired

I like the video. I will use this method. I did notice though that your fence does not sit flat on the table. Either the fence has a crown or the table is not flat. I can see under it in several shots.

great job chad what if u use masking tap when u routtring ungrain it may not blow

Hi I am Nisar from Pakistan and like it woodworking program and also learning can I learn

I've seen some wood workers use the method of gluing two pieces of wood together and follow up with a finish nailer to keep the pieces "clamped" in place while the glue dries. Once together, the woodworker will use screws as well. What circumstance is this practical and what circumstance is it not practical? I assumed glue was the only thing you needed if clamped properly and time permitted.

I'm going to be really thrown by the music not starting every time I turn my router on

Thanks a lot. I can do that

nice

Interesting talk

It seems to me that the plexiglass plate that is used to mount the router from underneath sags a tiny bit. You can see that as he passes (during those close shots) that there is some gapping that occurs. I'm sure that plexiglass is 1/4" so it'll support weight and it's not that long so there shouldn't be that much flexing going on. Chad, did you use 1/4" stock plexiglass. I wonder of there is a 3/8" plexiglass out there?

1/2 Inch plexiglass and a deeper counter sink would fix all these problems mentioned bellow, just keep that in mind if you make this router table. Really great idea, and super simple to make!!! It is not 100% perfect, but it does work really well.

Is the wood pieces catching on the hole at the router bit? Would it help to router the edge to prevent the corner of the wood from catching?

One of the bolts holding the plexiglas onto the router is pushing up the workpiece as you move the router over the plexiglas....

18:34 Notice the reflection in the plastic adjacent to the router. Notice the vertical concavity of the plastic. THE TABLE IS NOT FLAT !!! See the space under the 1/4 inch stock rod... You'll have DIFFERENT PENETRATION for short boards (or the ends of boards ) versus long boards.... (that would bridge across the concavity)

Would using a thicker piece of plexi-glass take the sag out of the router plate? Subbed!

Just wondering. When you made that table, why not make a dado into the table top on both sides? in turn your table wall would fit nice and smooth into the dado crevices, keeping your wall reasonable straight? I am pretty new to routers and having fun. Except almost cutting my finger off last Sunday. Thanks for the video. :P

Chad Stanton is good!

"Good Afternoon, Mr. Chad Stanton. I have a suggestion for u; Try to place the; ShopVac On The Router table Circuit, the reason is; once u turn on the Router On The Router table, Your ShopVac Automatically Turns On And Off. Very Excellent Projects, Remember That The Most Important Safety Rule; Is; 'Safety Shields, And Hearing And Face Protection As Well As Eye Protection', God Bless U Always, Mr. Chad Stanton. Keep Up The Excellent Projects Working NOW AND IN THE FUTURE--From--Mr. Granville S. Wright-Fellow Toastmaster And Admirer Of--Brother Mr. Chad Stanton--From--Towson, MD.,. U.S.A.

Hi. I just bought my first heavy duty router and I would like to build this table but I can not download the plans can somebody help me ---thanks

This is the "quarter-quarter-quarter" drawer box method. So much easier and faster to do on a table saw imho. I have my old Dewalt construction saw set up with a dado blade just for this and I never change the settings unless I'm doing drawers in other than 1/2" stock. And you can make all your cuts without changing anything.

About time. Where have you been?

Great video. I would stay away from using steel stock to set the bit height and fence spacing. If you're using carbide tipped bits, the steel can very easily chip the carbide, use aluminium instead. The softer metal is far less likely to chip the carbide.

Great video but why was it necessary to align the fence with the front end of the router table. I have been told that it doesn't matter as long as the bit is the proper distance from the fence.

Looks like you need to countersink the head of one of your screws, because EVERYTIME your pieces of wood gets to it & starts to go over it the piece raises up off your table top 1/32nd or so...in case someone hasn't already mentioned it to you.

Which big box store handles 1/2 inch lumber. I can’t find it at Lowe’s or Home Depot. I would love to have a source for 1/2 inch lumber. Please let us know.

Yes, you saw that screw too. BUT, he also didn't have to change his set up for the bottom, it falls into the say condition as the front & backs as to the sides. the same set up works with the bottoms and sides. just like the 1/4, 1/4 set up that makes a mortise and tenon. But, whos counting. PS leaving a bit of material on the outside edge is a telling tail of misalignment too. BUT...lol

those screws, used to secure the plexiglass, were not flush!

that router is causing the plexi glass to sag. whats the point in the plexiglass anyway?

Your needing a feather board to keep the object Down, it is Rising as you are passing it through.

Thanks for the info but a dado stack and a table saw is much quicker.

Your plans link doesn't seem to be working.

Would like to have seen some kind of nails on first drawer. Otherwise it will not hold. ?

no shit, its the big chopperoo

Your table is not as flat as it need to be. So you get not so good cuts. You can see it if you start to touch the router bit.

somethings missing , wheres safety Dan

I disagree with "picking up a stock bar at the big store" just to measure things, unless you are going to use it and you you need it, otherwise, it's silly. This little router table with drawers is kinda cute though the plastic insert is not good at all. I rather use aluminum for that (that's actually what I have done).

I like the idea of the little table with drawers but the actual joinery on the workpiece is pretty shabby. A little refinement and it'd look a hundred times better.

By no means am I a router expert, but I'd be more worried about the sub-standard accuracy than the blow out.

That drawer would be a whole lot stronger if the dado were opposite on the sides and front and backs

Is that Jimmy Kimmel disguised as Chad Stanton?