The bearings I pulled off my latest 272xp build were completely sized as was the connecting rod bearing. I had to soak it in PB blaster for a week to free it up to get it to turn, so I could split the cases. It was nasty. Lov'en the fact that I'm building a 272 at the same time the Tinman is building a 268 awesome, so stoked. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
Had to work on my truck last weekend so didn’t get the chance to rebuild my bottom end on my 266se, watching this just gets me more excited for the weekend! Thanks again tinman can’t wait to see what you got next for us
2strokestuffing is Norwegian friend✌Man, you gotta show that piston now, mentioned in the last two videoes. Have tried Harvs piston trick, but not the baking part. The missus is home on maternety leave at the moment, and will not be impressed by a baked piston in her beloved oven.
Just did my first bottom end the other night. Redoing a basket case 066. Got my parts from wolf creek. Dropped the tinmans name and even got me a free hat!
I LIKE YOUR THEORY ABOUT BUYING USED SAWS ,,EVERY SAW IVE BOUGHT I ALWAYS GO THROUGH THEM REGARDLESS ,,,HOPE YOU AND THE FAMILY ARE DOIN WELL BUDDY,,😁😁👍🏽👍🏽TAKE CARE TINMAN
And the "cages" in those bearings are still intact....nothing metal from the bearings running thru the saw...like balls when the nylon lets go in the new ones. Ans 325 degrees F the magic number on those. Love those lazer non contact thermometers to check with.
I had a pretty old Jonsered 49sp that had real stiff and noisy bearings so I filled the crankcase with a mix of PB blaster and Marvel Mystery oil, let set a few days and rotated the assembly with the rod quite often. They smoothed out and quieted down. I grant you some bearings actually have metal damage but there are ones that are just crusted up with old carbon and dirt, especially the older vintage saws that have not run in perhaps decades.