Death of the Cordless Drill? 

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I like the versatility of having both

My shop foreman always said you bore with a drill and you fasten with an impact. Even just for efficiency sake, I'll keep my fastener bit in my impact and my countersink in my drill. That way, I don't have to constantly switch.

The real no-brainer is having both. Buy the two pack!

I was a delivery driver that packed and unpacked items that were shipped in wood crates. I will say that the drivers I worked with all preferred regular drill drivers over impact drivers for installing or removing screws. The main reason was the impact driver was way too loud for use inside a box truck or other indoor environments. For used outdoors, impact driver all day long. I find it handy having both the drill and the impact. The drill can be set for pilot hole duty while the impact will drive the screw.

The drill is still more versatile and more efficient in some cases than an impact. Use it to drill steel and you’ll buy lots of bits.

The clutch observation is super important, and the deciding factor for me. I need my drill clutched.

I like that my impact driver doesn't try to break my wrist at least twice every project.

I love the short stubby nose because it has caused almost all drill sets to come with 1/4" shafts. That helps cordless drills as well because I don't have to spend so much time spinning the chuck open and closed to different sizes.

furniture installer for 45 years here. You are spot on with these assertions

I’m retired now from forty plus years as a carpenter. I started when we all carried egg beaters and bit and brace( the original cordless). The first cordless drills were a joke. Then good cordlesses and then impacts !! I still use both for my DIY’s

Years ago I got a Bosch 12v set of drill and driver and they’ve been perfect for home repair tasks. The impact driver hits well above its literal weight and has variable speed. I didn’t realize it was “special.”

I know I'm probably the oddity here, but I never put a fastener in a piece of wood until I have a pilot hole. So in my case both is optimal. Carry both and then not switch bits at all.

I've gone through that change. With the development of impact rated drill bits I've really come around, especially hand held drilling into metal. Bits always balk a bit, but instead of binding up, a few hammer strokes and the drill is cutting again. What I never expected was impact taps, it sounded like a crazy idea, but I am amazed how easy they are to use. Even surprisingly heavy stuff like threading into an automobile frame went remarkably easy.

I’ve done the opposite, myself. I’m reaching more and more for my drill, while my impact driver cries in the corner.

I imported a ryobi quietstrike impact from america over 5 years ago and it has been my go to for driving fasteners ever since it arrived, as it’s much quieter than regular impacts everyone else grabs it too for indoor work, so much so, I got a second that’s still in its box for when the inevitable happens

Brushless subcompact is where it’s at. I don’t know how old your impact is to not have variable speed. My ridgid brushed gen 3 is at least 12 years old and is variable speed.

I used to be the National Sales Manager at Kreg Tool & demonstrated the Kreg Jig at hundreds of Trade Shows & dealer events. After I tried a decent impact driver that’s what I used from that point on to drive my pocket hole screws. I still used a powerful drill to drill the pocket hole.

I use both, the best combination for all jobs (I have 3 actually...)

My first drill driver was a 9V Makita in the 1990s. I now have half a dozen various drill drivers and impact drivers in my shop. It wasn't until I watched this video that I took the time to understand the difference in capability and when to choose one or the other regularly. Thanks.

I had to watch this one twice. When he said, 'blew out my pocket and striped out my hole' beer came out my nose and i laughed until the video was over.

I started life with a brace and bit and a straight slotted screw driver. I have progressed to a pocket full of different screw type bits and two drill motors. I have a used impact Dewalt but it is more trouble than it's worth when driving screws into wood. I used the clutch feature of the drill motor to get exactly the torque I need for setting the screw that I am driving.

I reach for my Milwaukee installation driver the most. Compact, 1/4" collet for quick bit changing, multiple chuck options (standard key less, 90deg, offset). It's able to do most of what I need. The impact driver only comes out when brute force is needed, and the drill only for big bits.

Stumpy,..in the first minute of your presentation, I about laughed all the sawdust out of my lungs(🤪). Talk about funny! …how you described the early life of the impact driver and its older brother🤣😂. Good job!

"Crap, I blew out my pocket, and stripped the inside of my hole." Ah yes, I too have had Burritos today.

When you look at the side by side speed for driving long screws between an impact driver and a drill that's powerful enough to drive long screws without stalling, you'll save hours with the drill if you do this a lot. Impact drivers are useful for a mix of jobs that occasionally require long screws to be driven in as they will do it better than an equivalent spec drill, but paying the extra for a more powerful drill up front will save a huge amount of time in the long run - and it's not deafeningly loud every time you use it.

I totally get your early comment, when they were a new thing. I got all excited about getting my first cordless drill in the very early 1990s. 7.2V, and managed to screw in 8 tech screws before needing a recharge. That turned me off cordless tools for almost 30 years. I now have an 18v cordless drill, which I use for everything. I even have square drive socket adapters for ordinary nut & bolt work. I have no interest in replacing it with an impact driver, as it does the whole job. I may consider a full on impact wrench down the track, but for now, my pneumatic version is doing the job just fine. Thanks for the video.

Two other reasons for a good cordless drill 1. When pre-drilling a bunch of screw holes to avoid splitting wood, it's handy to have the drill bit chucked in the drill and the screw bit chucked in the impact driver. Speeds up the workflow. 2. A good cordless drill has a hammer setting for drilling into concrete, masonry or rock. It's not the same as the impact setting, and it makes a HUGE difference. Like a hot knife through butter.

I like my impact driver for removing stubborn/stuck screws (like ones painted over on a door hinge). It doesn’t cam out and strip the screw head like my drill does. But I always use my drill for drilling holes. Both my drill and impact drive are Makita, so they are quality tools with the features James mentioned.

Cool. Something about using a clutch that is important to understand: The torque the drill transfers to the fastener is limited by the clutch but affected by rpm. If you come in with high rpm, the tool will rotate farther because it takes a certain amount of time for the clutch to kick in. (so by the time it does, your screw is over-driven). Always set your clutch and use a consistent speed together for best results. Also, you can buy a 1/4" hex drive keyless drill chuck and use round shank drill bits with the impact.

I like using both. Load the drill with a bit to pre-drill holes, and the impact driver with a screwdriver bit. Then there's no need to switch bits. Plus, it uses each tool for its strengths.

Good thoughts! A little related story: Today I was having to install anchors through drywall and into steel studs. I started out using my triple hammer impact (because it's what I had on hand) and it about destroyed the drywall and made too large of a hole and about broke my wrist. I immediately ran back to my truck for a drill, which is what I knew I should've done from the beginning. I find a need for both on the jobsite on a regular basis. Even with a self tapping mode, which mine has, the impact action of the impact driver is sometimes too violent for more delicate work.

The DeWalt I have not only has variable speed but three settings: two that are impact, and one that is a gentler setting perfect for tightening screws to hand tightness.

We ve been using impact drivers for pocket holes in wood face frames for the last 40 years, allbeit air powered, i grew up in and still run a cabinet shop

One thing not mentioned is that drilling with an impact driver can sometimes shear the bit. I learned this the hard way the other day when drilling into some mild steel square tubing with a Milwaukee metal bit. That last moment when the bit usually grabs before it punches through is when the impact started and it sheared the bit. Now I have to buy a single replacement to complete my set again. The right tool for the job…

Another advantage of impacts is the chuck. I’ve had 3 keyless chucks lock up and render the tool useless. One a Milwaukee after one year. Two were Rigid, one after one use and sitting for 2 months, and the other brand new out of the package. The second I got in a 7 piece set and didn’t use it until after the 90 day return window.

By far my best tool purchase has been Milwaukee's Surge Impact. The hydraulics are far quiter and hit softer. The power settings and the hydraulics allow for very delicate work. I barely bust out the drill now.

I use my DeWalt 12V Extreme screw driver more than any tool I own. It combines the smoothness and control of a drill with the convenience of an impact driver. I pretty much only use my drills for drilling holes, and my impact drivers for large projects like building decks, or driving lag screws.

The market is full with fun stuff. You can take the chuck off many modern drills and then just put in a 1/4" bit. That obviously also makes them a lot shorter to the point where they rival impact drivers. It's almost as convenient as having both a drill and a driver.

Hi Stumpy Nubs, I have been using and impact driver for the screws and a drill for the drilling if only because the chuck speed for the drill to clear the swarf when drilling is quite a lot faster than is comfortable for driving screws!. The other factor is that even just a small pilot hole before putting the screw in is a lot quicker and easier apart from the fact that a clearance hole in the first piece allows the screw to draw the two parts together much more firmly. By having both tools in operation at the same time allows for continuous use of both without the tedious waste of time changing bits. On some jobs in the not too distant past I was finding myself reaching for the third box of two hundred screws during the same working day!. This I think is a very good example of the 'law of both' where is is not a case of one way or tool or the other but the appropriate use of both!. Cheers, Richard.

I use both. It is easier to have them both loaded up and switch back and forth as needed, saves time in my opinion. One of the features on my M12 is an impact setting. It gives you 3 impact settings and a drill setting that I haven't used. Combine the settings with a variable speed trigger and you can accomplish most projects easily.

As an electrician ( in Australia ) I use both, sometimes drilling with the impact, sometimes driving with the drill, sometimes one for the pre drill/countersink, the other for the fastener, sometimes you need the 'correct one' for the job.

My cheap Ryobi impact driver I got over 6 yrs ago is variable speed. I use it with the drill all the time. Drill a pilot hole and then drive the screw without the need to change bits.

I agree. I rarely use my cordless drill anymore, but only for drilling a pilot hole for the impact to prevent splitting or in metal when I don't want the impact effect. So, probably 95% of the time I use the impact.

I have found that with an impact driver with a large diameter drill. For instance a Kreg pocket hole drill. the impact drill can break the quarter inch ferrule right off the drill bit. I use a regular variable speed drill or a drill that takes the ferrule, quick connect system but does not have an impact feature. Milwaukee made one of these.

For a quick job I grab the impact driver and a box of bits, pretty much do anything. For a big job I'll use both, normally I'll leave a different bit in each, predrilled then fasten so I don't have to switch bits.

I love your choice in sponsors since they are actually relevant to why I watch your channel. I will be in the market for a pocket hole thingy in the not to distant future and found your product demo to be quite informative. Will be checking out your sponsor.

I bought the Milwaukee brushed set. I wore out the impact driver because it was used 95% of the time then when the repair centre wanted to charge me about the same to repair as I could get a brush less for, I swapped. Now here's the bit you didn't expect: I sent the brush less back because it was hopeless in comparison to the brushed version. No torque at low speeds then a further squeeze of the trigger made it go almost out of control. I got my brushed tool repaired, kept the brushless drill, and all is well. The higher torque of the brushed means best low speed control.

Im not a Milwaukee fan boy but we had one of their impulse impact drivers at work. I was thoroughly impressed with the three programmed settings and the hydraulic impulse is so smooth when compared to a mechanical. One setting 1 it was easy and possible to drive small half in long screws with complete control. Would highly recommend.

I'm not drilling holes in steel with an impact driver nor cleaning up tapped holes in iron castings with one either.

I even downsized to a 12V for the impact driver I use the most. It smaller, lighter, has 3 speeds and a smart torque setting. It will put a 3" deck or construction screw in wood just as good as my 18V will. I have carpal tunnel and switching to this tool was a game changer. I seldom use my 18V anymore.

I still use both simply for the fact that I like having one machine dedicated to drilling and one dedicated to driving fasteners, that way I don't have to keep switching between a drilbit and a driving bit, I just leave the drill in the drill and the driving bit in the impact driver

You're about half a decade late to the party...

I’ve been using both for at least twenty years. The great advantage in my view is that the impact driver does not transfer torque to the wrist - really appreciated when doing up large or tight fixings. If you’ve ever been bucked by a cordless drill you’ll know how painful that can be. Just as a side note when I’m fixing cabinet hardware etc. I nearly always use a - gasp - manual old school screwdriver, you just can’t beat the sensitivity.

This makes sense in the context of woodworking but it's always best to own both in my opinion and it's always good to have a cordless hammer drill handy. I can't imagine drilling into a cement/ concrete wall with an impact driver.

Milwaukee sells an impact called the Surge. It uses hydraulics to get rid of the noise common with impacts. They are really nice and quiet. Amazon also sells battery adapters for using other manufacturers' batteries if you don't have any Milwaukee batteries

I frame hardwood furniture with an impact. I use a makita on the self tapper 1 mode. It shoots down my pocket hole and cuts off when the screw head his the bottom. You can even pull the trigger a few more times before you strip out the wood. Then I just switch to a coarse thread and send it. I frame furniture so fast this way.

My new favorite tool is the Milwaukee m12 installation driver. It comes with 4 different heads, including a 3/8 chuck, right angle, offset and 1/4 driver. It’s lightweight and very small. That combined with a small impact driver covers 99% of my tasks. The only time I’m taking out my drill now is to put holes in concrete or to use a larger hole saw.

I own both, need both, they are used for different jobs. I use rigid brand for both that look just like the ones he is using. Got the pair for under $100. I do mechanic work, fabrication of metal, woodworking and home remodeling. I wouldn't be without both.

.. Exactly my experience.. I have 4 cordless drills same model - and 2 corresponding impact drivers. On a big job, being able to wield 4 different drill diameters, countersink, AND have a screwdriver all at once.. even with quick change, it still takes up more time to hop between different drill diameters quickly and efficiently.. than pre dedicated motors to bits. YES, the clutch is VERY critical - especially in soft pine - and finessing in a screw with an impact driver can be a little fiddly. Great Video.

I've been using my Panasonic impact for headed toward two decades. One of its virtues is, three settings for impact level. The other is, like you say, the variable speed. That aside, impacts walk all over corded and battery drills for removing screws. Battery drills are better than corded for that, but my cordless impact still trumps either drill.

Mostly agree...except I recently used my pocket hole set and decided to just swap out the bit on the driver. Everything was great as I was drilling the pocket holes until the hammer function kicked in. Suddenly I had run up against the stop collet and moved it from its precise setting for the hole that I needed. Lesson learned. At least when doing pocket hole joinery: drill for drilling and driver for screwing.

I am a Makita guy and have both. Mine is VS but it doesn't have the clutch that a drill has so depending on what I am doing I will reach for one over the other. Even with variable speed you can inadvertently engage the impact function when trying to be "delicate" and end up with too much wampum (that's a technical term). Having both is as they say, the best of both worlds.

I use my DeWalt 12V drill to disassemble and reassemble almost all electronics and appliances I work on, with that clutch giving me that reassuring safety margin to not wreck things, but I did consider the driver instead when I bought it, because I saw they were variable speed these days and I had really liked the chuck-less driver when I was in construction (except for that lack of variable speed back then).

I use the drill a lot to chuck up something, and use a Dremel to shape, reduce, or smooth out with sandpaper as its turning. Its like a mini portable lathe. Chuck up a round rod, spin the end on sandpaper to find the center. It leave circles to a dot in the center. No, its not going away from me.

It is true that with variable speed, you can get by with just the impact driver. My Ryobi quiet strike has that and is less noisy than a traditional impact. But I still own a Dewalt and a Bosch 12 Volt drills, and they are fine for making holes and driving small bolts and screws. The impact is too big for small jobs, but it ROCKS for driving deck screws and lag screws.

Over the past few years I have been using tools called drill drivers. I love them One I have came with 3 chucks. Both are also hammer drills. I love them!

Completely agree, both are needed. A good adjustable clutch and no need to impact drill bits when drilling metal is, at least IMO, required. And today's brushless 1/4" impact drivers, even with variable speed, are crazy powerful. The latest one I've bought can change lug nuts on passenger cars it's got so much power. I keep an old 9v Hitachi 1/4" impact just for work that I don't want that crazy level of power.

I use both on most jobs and not having to change from driver to bit makes things easier. Have you seen a bit countersink? Plus setting the torque on the drill and it will quit turning when you reach pre determined torque

I have an impact driver that is a about 20-21 years old with variable speed. My drill driver failed so I only have this now. Used for driving and drilling. Heavy stuff is done with an SDS drill.

I still love my set When I'm doing a repetitive job I can keep a drill bit in one and a driver bit in the other. Just replaced the draw pulls in my kitchen. After filling all the mismatched holes from all the mismatched hardware the former owners had installed over 80 years I broke out the jig grabbed the drill to make the holes and then without getting up the impact driver to install the hardware.

Thanks for the insights - definitely interesting stuff! I once worked with a Metabo (or was it Makita?) non-impact cordless drill/driver with a detachable chuck; after taking it off you're left with a hex chuck making the whole thing shorter and more agile.

For delicate work, I use a drill to drill a pilot hole, and hand screw in screws, better control and feel.

When I first got a cordless drill, I'm sure I spent more time switching bits than actually drilling or driving. Obviously you can sometimes do lots of drilling followed by driving, but not always. (Yes, with standard non-hex shanks that could take a while.) Two devices - whether a drill and an impact driver or two of either - can make such a difference.

I've been using the impact for driving screws and bolts, and use the drill specifically for drilling holes.

I love both, but let's not forget about the finesse of a simple screwdriver, especially for small screws. Great video and advice as always 👍

I find it useful to always have 3 drills or impacts out and ready to go on the workbench. Because when I'm in the flow of something, especially if it's repetitive... then I don't want to be changing bits. I have an Impact, a Drill and a Screwdriver all in the M12 line. They are perfect for in the workshop for nearly 95% of everything I've ever done. Sure, there are times when I need to bust out the 20v stuff, or even the corded version of whatever. But those times are rare for someone like me that bounces between wood, metal, plastics, composites on a daily basis.

I am a Stagehand who among other things does Set and Stage Construction and used to be an Electrical Apprentice. I've largely learned on-the-job carpentry since the 90s when I was a kid (doing things like volunteering to help construct a boardwalk). Yeah I can see how for some just an impact would be fine these days, but personally would always suggest BOTH. Also I always find that starting people out with the drill first is a MUST. They always reach for the impact and it always turns out poorly. Don't know how many untrained and/or unexperienced with power tools I've run into over the years. This video really made me think of several of the points you raised in this video that are real things many don't know that they don't know. really important things! How many who use drills on the semi regular basis don't know what the torque setting on the drill IS, or the speed setting, or that the trigger is variable. Not to mention that you need to drive true and for heavens sakes don't overdrive screws! OH I could go on... I swear many need a training video for using a cordless drill.

got my first makita in 88 or 89. impact gun is a good power driver. hydraulic is quieter than an impact. but it still takes a drill to drill big holes.

Definitely for me both is a must. I've been using cordless since they come on the market, as with an impact driver. For me, in the shop, it's about having more control with tork settings as I'm generally using smaller screw and always make clearance holes, how I was taught. An Impact I near always reach for on larger screws and with all my screws I use torx head screws, with these screws you hardly need any pushing force! On my commissions, I near always have two drills set up and an impact ready to go. Not used the new impact drivers so can't comment on them but, here in the UK, some customers ban them from being used in their house due to the noise of them. To be honest, hearing 3 or 4 impact drivers being use at the same time, it's not nice! You ant expect customers to wear ear defenders all day!

Nice analysis, drill v. impact driver. I use both, and for me that won't change. My drill is a premium drill of it's brand, and it just does certain things (many of which you noted) better than my (premium brand) impact driver. Good points made all around. Thanks James.

I bought the Milwaukee two-pack from Home Depot YEARS ago. 18V and they replaced a 40-year-old Black&Decker corded and a 25-year-old Craftsman corded.

Panasonic made an excellent driver about twenty years ago with variable speed, torque and rotation settings. It was way ahead of its time.

In addition to wearing belt and suspenders, I almost always drill pilot holes for screws. Rather than constant bit switching I use both a drill and an impact.

I mostly use the hammer drill when I am changing the tires or other mechanical work on my vehicles. On large projects such as re-decking the deck I need three, sometimes more, batteries with a cordless drill. While drilling or setting screws with the cordless drill, the other two batteries are being charged.

I bought a speed chuck when I was gifted a Makita drill years ago, and I use it to quickly switch between predrilling holes and driving screws.

Thank you, James. I believe both tool have their place in every shop. 😁🙂🙂🙂❤❤❤❤

Re the intro on cordless drills. My first was in the mid-70s, a Skil 4.5 V (3 internal inaccessible cells) could drill only a handful of holes before dying. However it was useful as I was sailing on an old 40ft wood racing yacht on a swing mooring and it was a lot simpler to take the drill out in the dinghy rather than bring the boat to the dock for power when doing small jobs - and there was always something to do.

I've discovered I keep an impact driver and two 3/8 inch drills in my tool box, plus a 1/2 inch for the larger needs. I find I use them all during most days. My 3/4 inch Milwaukee doesn't get much use anymore.

I was a Makita repair tech in the mid 90s and we used cordless impact drivers on the bench and Freightliner was using dozens 9.6V and 12V impact drivers for cab interiors because they eliminated air hoses or power cords. Cordless impact guns have been very common in industrial applicates for decades. As far as shopping, at sale time you can often get a free tool or sometimes two free tools with drill and impact set, or drop major $$ and get a 5 or 7 tool package.

one feature that isn't on any impact driver (as far as I'm aware) is the hammer drill feature. I have barely used mine for that, but the feature is there if i need it :)

If you're driving lots of long screws or lags, the impact gun is a wrist saver if your drill doesn't have that anti-kick circuitry. The impact gun can also help break free rusty hardware that a Churches drill might not (or break it off, that's fun).

I've been wondering for a few days whether or not to buy an impact driver as a second fastening/drilling tool, and thank you for helping with that choice. I was hesitating with a subcompact AEG/Ridgid drill to have a smaller footprint tool, but the impact driver seemed to fit that role AND have more versatility (but extra cost, so...). Well, now I know why it would be worth it :)

I have to admit though I have 3 cordless drills I almost always use my driver. The drills typically get used for situations where I have a bit that won’t fit in the driver, the aforementioned holesaw, and when I need to drill the pilot holes and then screw it in a fastener I use both. The thing is the drill is so simplistic that if you have Batteries already, the drill is basically free. It’s less than $20 to pick up a cordless drill from the manufactures refurbished store. and I picked one up just to permanently attached to my drill guide. I have also often been known to use the driver and two drills to hold a bit for the fastener and a drill for the pilot hole and another for a recessed hall, and or countersink.

Good video. I only buy impact cordless drills (bosch) and wired impact drills of any brand as long as it has the power. I bought one hammer/power drill to make my own DIY drill press because the power was unmatched. Its still runs after 10 years. Some of the tools in the store like table saws and drill press are horribly made, so I always end up making my own setup and replace parts if anything breaks. I also like CNC machines, electron microscopes, Laser Cutters, 3D printer, and computer servers to run my businesses. They're like the fundamental tools you need in this modern day world.

The biggest advantage of an impact driver over a drill is that they don't strip the heads out of screws. Drills cam out easily and spin in the head so fast that before you know it that had had a nice smooth hole in the top. This is especially true when removing screws. I've even. Had screws that the drill just cannot grip to remove yet the impact backed out easily.

I've used a non-variable speed impact for like 3y now and it works just fine. Took a week to get used and now I can do a 2x20mm screw without any issues. They are loud which is annoying

I like having both, drill bit in the drill, screw driver in the impact, much faster to switch tools than bits.

I guess it is just waiting to have the real well working combination-machine with a switch between 'rotating' and 'impact'. I used to have one but the impact-function was a bit 'meh'. It helped me out in some cases though, especially working on a roof to get those bigger bolts and nuts loose while just needing one machine on the belt.

Brilliant video. I actually have 2 impact drivers and 0 drills. (One is ultra lightweight and the other is a higher torque when I need it, Makita 10.8v and 18v respectively). The quick release is just great, and if I need 2 then I use both my drivers with different bits, usually a philips and a robertson bit one in each. You make a great point about forstner bits. But for that kind of precision I usually use my drill press anyway. Thanks for this video. Scott from Japan