I failed badly fixing this little Sony TV (KV-9PT50) 

And yes, before you comment, know that I'm aware this CRT (like all trinitrons and other later clones) use an aperture grill versus a conventional shadow mask or slot mask. I erroneously call it a shadow mask in the video but they serve the same function: to make sure the cathode emissions for each respective color only hits the corresponding color phosphor. Further reading: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture_grille en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shadow_mask en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cromaclear

I used to repair CRT monitors back in the early 90's. Amazing to see everyone using CRT to everyone then using LCD in a relatively short time period. I liked working on CRTs. Have one on the bench now, it has small imperfection in the LOPT that is arcing out to the chassis.

When I worked with video terminals, the yoke assembly was rotated to various positions based upon where the terminal was sold to because the CRTs are affected by the earth's magnetic pull. For those terminals heading to Australia, for example, the image was rotated substantially to one direction so that the image was obviously tilted. Depending upon the destination, we had various templates to align the image to ensure they were orientated properly when the equipment arrived at the customer.

yeah we had an old TV we threw out when i was young on the farm and I smashed the CRT and wow! I was lucky i used a long handled tool and wore protective clothing because like you said, it doesn't "explode" but glass chunks go flying everywhere!

Oh man that's so sad I have a 13'' trinitron that I got *for free* on a furniture thrift store (not to be confused with an antique store) when I bought a bunch of furniture. It was just lying there, perfectly conserved, on a corner. The salesman threw it in as a gift for buying so much furniture and now I have the perfect retro gaming CRT! It's image is just so great, I love it so much.

I worked in a CRT factory in my late teens and have been around a lot of imploding CRTs - both with and without implosion bands and not only do they help prevent implosions but they are designed to minimize the flying glass. An imploding CRT has an impressive amount of energy. I've seen a chunk of leaded glass shred a 2x4 stud when a hot tube imploded. Very exciting - especially since I used to work on an inline cart line where the vacuum is created and you lift the tube right beside your face (we wore safety glasses) removing the tube from the carts with no implosion band...

I was 14 when I figured out myself why the trinitron were always so expensive; the cylindrical shadow mask. I had a rough understanding of how a tv worked, and I found it logical they'd have a patent on it. I also thought Sony were crafty sods.

This was way more educational for me than a more straight-forward repair video would have been. Thanks!

12:55 The primary purpose of demagnetization is to reduce color distortion caused by an electron beam that is wrongly deflected by a magnetized tube. As this is a Trinitron tube, there is no color distortion if the electron beam is off in the vertical axis, in contrast to regular shadow masks. This is why the demagnetization only needs to be effective in the horizontal axis, again, unlike regular shadow masks.

For the i2c injection problem, you could put your device as a "man in the middle", have it accept and resend commands that keep the TV alive (i.e. voltage events, etc.) but then just don't pass through the commands that you're overriding.

22:04 - The ring on the antenna dangley doodad is called the "getter" uses a metallic compound which is fired with an induction coil after the oven and vacuum pulling process. It is meant to remove any remaining air and impurities to further improve the vacuum quality. The diffusion pumps used to pull the vacuum can sometimes introduce a small amount of contaminants inside the CRT.

My grandparents had this exact model in their kitchen for years from when I was a kid through high school. Funny the things that can be unexpectedly nostalgic

Dang. I knew as soon as I heard it…vacuum loss. I may or may not have caused that on more than one tube over the years. The sound of air rushing in is something you’ll never forget as all your hopes and dreams leave your body simultaneously as the air rushes in. Regardless, great video!

Always interesting to see an old technology, extant for decades, taken to the absolute nth level. As much optimisation in manufacturing and setup as there can possibly be for the final price to be really cheap, but work well.

I really love learning from your nice & passionate educational episodes. A 1000 Thanks!

Here's a quick tip if you are decommissioning a CRT permanently. That little button on the side where the high-voltage attaches to from the fly back, is a thin metal. If the electrode gun is damaged and you want to make it safe for disposal, then take a nail and lightly tap it in the center of that spot. Poke a small hole in that metal and let it sit there and suck in air for what seems an eternity. At least that way if you drop it, you just have a bunch of broken leaded glass to deal with and not an explosion hazard.

I appreciate the tour of this TV. I'll have to get my popcorn out for all the Trinitron snobs to make their "Well ackchually" comments. 🤣

you can safely release the vacuum by breaking the neck off or if you can get a thin blade under the plastic cap over the pins you can lift the cap off and bend the pins out to the side and using a wire cutter snip off the nipple where the tube was sealed and it lets the vacuum off slowly and that is even safer. though i have never seen a tube implode due to breaking the neck. in the older tvs from the early days of tv especially the ones they call roundies (a bigger version of an oscilloscope crt) the front is only held on by the vacuum there is no glue like newer tubes and it is possible for the front of the tube to detach and fall off so those tubes are absolutely dangerous to work with. if a tube was to implode you probably would get a piece of glass in your chin. another high voltage thing to worry about is xray protection. it is possible to over volt a picture tube and make it into an xray tube

Too bad this one is broken. I was wondering if this could have been a compatible colour CRT for that TRS 80 Model 3/4/CoCo repack you showed a while ago.

Thanks for this! I love all your videos! I was just thinking, about that stuff you're scrapping off of the inside of the screen, it's probably toxic to ingest or even breath! I'm not totally sure, but I'd air the old basement out if you can! All the best!

I love the old CRT TVs and monitors. Just something nostalgic, seeing how I grew up in the 80s haha. I've long since adopted the flat panels we are all familiar with today, but I do have a couple old CRTs hanging around the house. One is in an old Leader oscilloscope, that needs some minor repair. My gem CRT though, is a 32" Sony Trinitron CRT TV with Component hookups, as well as regular AV and such. It's considered one of the first HD CRTs that came out right before the flat screens started taking hold. I hope to hold on to that sucker for many more years, as it has a gorgeous picture! 😎

I dont know anything you know more than me and others and I have learned a lot from youre Monitor videos.

I always love small crt Tv's especially those cute small Sony Trinitron 9 inch Crt Tv to me it's fascinating to see them running especially with retro consoles like the Super Nintendo not to mention they look gorgeous to my eyes. It is a Shame that this thing had a very very rough life but hey at least I will enjoy the autopsy and learning something new here. I'll bring my popcorn and a tasty beverage and enjoy the video.

Very interesting. I've worked in the field of Electronics for nearly 30-years, but never had the occasion to work on a TV. I appreciate the education. :)

Wow! This is surreal - my family (and I think my parents still do!) had TWO of these exact TVs. One was mounted under the main kitchen cabinets and the other was mounted in our basement 'party' kitchen. One had a LOT of hours, the other...not so much. The one in the basement had a habit of turning itself on when the BIG Trinitron was turned on - the infrared would bounce off the screen of the big 40 inch Sony KV-40XBR700 and turn this little guy on. I guess Sony programmed the two remotes the same way. It was a terrific set back in the day. You used to see these things innocuously on TV and movie sets back in the day, too. If you're looking for some, I might be able to send you TWO! Who knows, though, you're probably going to get a lot of people recognizing this cute little TV. We had cable TV hookups all over the house and TVs all over...including in one bathroom!

I have a similar earlier model in black case color. It is a wonderful little set to have. Bought for 5 bucks at a thrift store with original manual and remote.

That circle on the end of that long bit of curved metal is what’s called a “getter” which contains some chemical compounds that attract any remaining molecules of air that may remain after evacuation. This is the same thing as what’s under or behind the silvery spot on most any vacuum tube.

A Pitty you could not get it working , but your lecture was realy cool and interesting i loved it thanks for sharing adrian.

One of my go-tos for larger-scale plastic repair is PC-11 epoxy adhesive paste. With some patience (and a bit of inevitable frustration), you can sculpt with it, and the result will be sandable, and the finish is a very reasonable white which makes for a much less obvious repair than most other epoxies. And it's _very_ strong. (I have no affiliation, it's just saved parts for me more than once.)

Would it not better to say, the crt was de-filled with vacuum 😉 But its a shame, that that little guy was no resurection candidate, would have been an interesting topic, if it is possible to modify an RGB interface to it. The picture they could create was ver brilliant.

I remember working at a Mac shop in the mid 90's... my one co-worker blew the CRT in three mac Plus/SE's... made a nice bullseye in the phosphor on the screen... The etch-a-sketch comment reminded me of it :D

Nice, enjoyed that. Shame about the tube but once air gets in, its game over really. Thanks for the video.

This could've been a very short video (or no video at all), but Adrian makes lemonade from lemons.

I had three 24" Sony Trinitron monitors way back in the day. I was running dual displays on my main system and one on my file server. They were branded as HP on the chassis, but the guts were a Trinitron. They were originally used for high end HP Unix workstations. So they used a cable that broke out into five BNC connectors that carried the actual image.

FWIW, Plastruct plastic weld works miracles on ABS and some other types of plastics. I've been using it for a while to piece together old Macs that have gotten brittle, and the joints it makes are stronger than the unbroken bits around it. It also doesn't make nearly as big a mess as JB Weld.

LOL, the Etch A Sketch at the end was funny :D

Awesome camera quality.

22:03 - The one with the springy long pickup is the anode, the pickup is touching the internal anode layer on the CRT wall, it's on the same positive HV potential as the raster and the mask/grill is. There's no pin for that one on the neck connector.

Adrian's Analog Attic!

Sometimes a broken set like this can be a blessing in disguise, as if you end up with another, you pretty much have a complete set of (now long obsolete) spares to keep it running ..besides the CRT itself, ofc!

Adrian we need a video on EGA! The intermediate standard! And EGA displays!

your videos are really interesting Adrian. how did you get to learn all this stuff you talk about ?

I had a 21" IBM branded Trinitron multisync monitor around 2000. It was a monster. It had a great picture though. I kind of wish I still had it.

CRT School!!! Thank you Adrian! To our fallen friend from Sony: Little Brother, we honor your sacrifice, and thank you for giving us important knowledge.

I loved using Trinitron monitors and still have a couple of SGI and Apple rebadged models tucked away, but I was never very keen on the late FST versions, they traded flatness for a little distortion, which was fine for a TV, but no so much for a monitor.

That part that was broken on the CRT was the vacuum release nipple. Purposefully designed for safely disposing of the tube.

I scuff up the surface and if I'm going to paint it or don't care about the mismatched color/texture, I drill small holes along the break line either side just big enough for the epoxy to get through and then sand it smooth on the outside. You could also use a tool used to put texture on plastic to kind of scratch different rough grooves into the rear and you'll get a really strong hold that way too, more so than just applying or a light scuffing. I have a couple metal tools for this or a razor blade/exacto works fine, just add different angles to help the material fill and lock in. If that tv worked, I'd probably repair the rest of the casing by setting up meshes and reshaping the holes. I also love that kind of stuff so that would be as much fun as repairing the tv itself lol. Too many thousands of hours to count doing auto body work, sculpting, etc.

Newer CRTs have these ICs:an eeprom for the microcontroller,a microcontroller,one or two ICs(if it is multisystem) for getting sound and video out of the IF signal,H/V sync ICs,sound amp,AV switch IC,SMPS IC,and a few voltage regulators.

JBweld is a 2 part epoxy, ie, Araldite, with metal filler, ie, you don't really need filler to glue parts together, plus the dark colour is hard to hide. You are probably better off with Araldite and a mesh patch on the back, ie, a patch hold parts together stronger. You also have to sand the shine off to get more mechanical grip.

Very nice! Too bad that tube was toast - it looks very very cute!

Dr. Adrian "Zhivago" Black haha. Now in a more serious note Adrian, you should built a electric socket with a in series incandescent bulb 💡 to test CRTs,has in a case of a short the light bulb protects the CRT

The best way to transport a CRT is on the glass (in Europe there were an extra glass layer in the front to make it even safer), but you need to have some soft to put it on to avoid scratches.

very sad to see such a cool device getting trashed like this, great video as always.cheers

When I saw the smashed casing I thought this is a candidate for a mini arcade cabinet!

Adrian an individual that used to work on TV's he told me about the screwdriver setup you use so I guess that can be done, of course I always am very careful since that it very high voltage.

Rebuilding CRTs used to be a thing where the gun assembly was cut off the back of the picture tube and a new one attached, then the tube was evacuated and sealed, but the very last company in the world that did that work has closed up as of a few years ago (it was in France).

A lot of these little Sony's (and some of their bigger sets from the 90s + some monitors from the time period) are unfortunately notorious for having the plastic degrade, brittle, and crack apart.

It's a shame the CRT was necked, but it did give us an opportunity to see the RGB guns. If you had an endoscope camera we could have seen inside the CRT. :) Great video Adrian.

Nice autopsy video there, Adrian :) I have found an old 13 inch russian color set this weekend but I have not yet tried it because I have no time to play with that. But I think you should try and look around on eBay for another non-functional Sony set just like that. And make a working TV set out of the two. Here in Hungary, they are really cheap. I gave a bar of Milka for a working large Sony Trinitron.

I always feel pain looking at broken CRTs

I saw you play etch-a-sketch from the broken neck but you might be able to do more. I've heard hard drive magnets can snap the aperture grille wires and maybe make a pinging noise.

To repair plastic chassis I use a cheap solder iron to melt and mix at the same time the seam of the break and zip ties. They're easy to handle and to melt. Obviously I do this from the inside and I try to find zip ties with the right color, or close. If it needs to be stronger your can use metal meshes or old wires inside the plastic. Don't breath this!

I have this same TV! Mine is starting to crumble apart. Every time I pick it up it cracks and creaks and I feel like the top of the case is just going to rip off one day. It's so brittle but the CRT still looks good. :)

one most modern Sony tv you could get into the service mode to calibrate it by doing the following sequence with the remote when the tv is off: DISPLAY, NUMBER 5, VOLUME UP, POWER, the tv will turn on and you will see on screen all the hidden items that you coud adjust

LOL! I purchased the exact same model during the height of the pandemic and it arrived broken. Luckily it wasn't as badly broken.

Hi Adrian, could you borescope the tube if you still have it? It would be cool to see the inside!

What would be interesting is to cut the existing traces connecting the two chips via I2C and set the Arduino up between them, allowing it to forward only certain commands and filter out others which could potentially interfere with whatever experimenting you're trying to do.

I used to always tap on the screen of crts. do they echo the same if the tube is busted? could that be a fast way to check

Rather unfortunate that this TV was destroyed, looked like it was a cute little thing, like my Torch monitor (which is I think 9"), but suffered at the hands of either a butterfingers, or someone who just didn't care about destroying it... :(

would be fun to get a glass cutter and try and make the tube into a bowl or something. I'd also pull the flyback from it and see if anyones looking for one to buy as they go bad often and it might be a less common model :D

Nine Inch Fails. Cheers, Adrian.

Best crt tubes ever made these were by a mile

The flyback has a thing called a cascade where a relatively low ac voltage is stepped up using a string of diodes a capacitors to a high, somewhat pulsating DC voltage. It is not a 20kV winding and a 20kV++ recitfier.

Instead of epoxy, you can do a much quicker repair of a plastic body using a plastic welding kit. It's a little device that heats up zig zag shaped metal clips that can be pushed into the plastic across the seams (pushes in like butter because of the heat), and it makes a join stronger than the original plastic.

Cute little TV, bummer it was wrecked

Right now I am looking for a Sony Indextron color Watch Cube for my vintage collection. It is 5 inch, if I am correct.

Sad I have a 13 inch version of that set it's a great set with low hours also !

I see a chip on the bench that looks a lot like a PDP-11 CPU. A possible hint on a future video? If you need to stick plastic back together, you could use a plastic rod or piece of 3D printer filament in a rotary tool to weld it. The spinning plastic makes enough friction to melt both the plastic rod and the surface of the broken parts.

I had a broken Toshiba and used it in an arcade cabinet with a pc. Could do similar table top style game

ya i was looking down into my sony stereo receiver with a flashlight and all circuit board in it says sony.

I love a good Techropsy! :)

Degauss coils are a great source of enamelled wire for repair jobs. I scrapped a massive 32" Philips TV about 10 years ago now and im still using the wire from its degauss coil for repairs :)

I have a 9" Toshiba color CRT ( it was in a zenith TV ). I parted out the TV, but I had to stop when my soldering iron gave up the ghost after making a sputtering sound with just one partly parted double sided board left. It's just a tube, no yoke or anything. I need to get rid of it, but I'm afraid to toss it down the old rubbish chute ( might implode and destroy the chute ). I don't think the building manager, or landlord, or anyone would appreciate that so much. I don't have anything small and strong enough to stick into the black plastic alignment part ( which seems effectively glued on, especially after seeing all that glass stuck to the Sony's ) to break off the nipple and let the atmosphere hiss into the tube. Besides, performing such an operation on my lap ( no work bench, and table is used for food prep and eating ). I mean, laps are meant for warming cats and giving them a reason to purr. Not for imploding comparatively large tubes ( accidentally ). I only pop 60W bulbs over my lap ( in a cardboard box ) when they have a brass base. Well, you never know when you might get the urge to mod an LED bulb. Also, I wouldn't toss the CRT down the rubbish chute even if I let atmosphere in as it's mass could ( once again ) take out that old rubbish chute and turn everyone from a friend into an enemy. In addition to which, I don't possess anything with sufficient insulation to discharge the tube. So then someone cleaning up the downed busted up rubbish chute and bins might unwittingly pick it up with there hands firmly on the DAG, and the ( fairly, hopefully, insulated non Dremel roto tool ) cut off anode wire lightly in contact with an arm. Not to mention how many people could there be in this building who part TV's out? And by the damage to the rubbish chute from the floor bellow me on down, how many parters could be on my floor? Just saying that toss could be a personally identifiable act. So I guess I'm stuck with a perfectly ( good? ) CRT kicking around on my floor. Uh, perhaps my use of the word kicking wasn't the best choice of words, after all I have no idea how powerfully those things go off, or how large a hole it might leave behind. Well, I guess come the next inspection I could always get the inspector to get rid of it. But giving him ten pairs of rubber gloves might make him a little suspicious, and they could be wholely inadequate. Plus Id have to give him instructions to not toss it down the rubbish chute, and to set it down fairly gently without dropping it.

I have one of these. I need to recap it and find a remote control for it.

if you have a suitable crt, even if monitor grade, as long as the base pinout is the same, i bet it'd work, you'd then have a tv with higher grade display!

Funny thing, I just seen this exact model on facebook marketplace in my area.

RIP little TV. You will be missed :(

Tube looks like the same one inside the pvm-8042q or pvm-9042qm, but it wouldn't be worth chopping one of them for the tube since they have RGB, component, svideo and composite as standard.

I found a local recycler, that has an absolute ass load of old crts. I tried to list some of them on different auction sites like eBay or Craigslist. It makes me really sad to say but nobody's really looking for these even the hobbyist. Every once in a while I see about 300 tvs in a bin, most of them work just fine. Getting crushed. Is there some kind of online community that would be interested in trying to save some of these before they're crushed?

You missed the most obvious give-away of a CRT broken this way: a snapped off exhaust tip. That exhaust tip is the place on the tube where it's sealed during manufacture after the tube has been fully evacuated. If the tape wasn't on the neck, you would also have seen the Getter (the structure used to hop up liberated air molecules) turn from silvery to white and chalky. That is another give-away of a broken tube. Usually when a tube is broken at the exhaust tip it does not implode, which is why if you must make a CRT safe for disposal, that is where you break it. You are indeed fortunate that the CRT didn't implode because the set would have been full of leaded glass dust, phosphors and the odd glass shard. The glass/aquadag capacitor you were talking about earlier is part of the high-voltage circuit. As you mention, the Flyback transformer creates the high voltage and there is a usually a half-wave rectifier (though sometimes a doubler or triple) that feeds the CRT. The glass/adquadag is the the filter capacitor for the high voltage power supply. Yes, it's only a few hundred picofarads but that's okay because the beam current is tiny.

what a shame the poor tv ended its life like that Adrian

I bought one of those from goodwill in like 2009 to use with my //c its pretty crap even for a Trinitron the electrics in it just don't do the tube justice. It was meant as part of "hang shit from the bottom of your cabinets" spacesaver fad in the 90's started by black n decker. Mine had its swivel base which could be screwed into the top rectangular slot, and then had mounting holes to hang it

Does that sticky note say sorry or Sony? I'm too cheap to spring for RU-vid so I can watch it in 4K and I'm too annoyed that it automatically would go to 4K before they did that when it didn't need to.

It would be entirely possible to glue it back together with epoxy or super glue. I fixed everything from a vcr through a coffee machine to a dishwasher with glue.

You know what I hate about TV from outside France? Most don't have a native RGB input port. You can say whatever you want about our 50Hz TV and their SECAM signal, but at least we had native RGB support thanks to our legally enforced presence of a SCART port on all our TVs. (Unless you got a very, VERY old TV, like early color TV old.)

RSVP baby Trinitron. It wouldn't surprise me if someone deliberately smashed this to get the extra few millimetres of copper wire from the cable. Which is a real shame because there would be far more value in a working Trinitron than just a few cents worth of copper wire. They probably spent far more in their labour than they would've got back from the value of the wire. I dragged a huge flat screen TV from where someone dumped it a couple of blocks away to about 100m from my place before my arms gave out. I had intended on coming back a couple of days later with a furniture dolly that I was going to borrow from work, but by the time I got back to it someone had pulled it apart and ripped out all the wires, delection coils, transformers, etc.

Some people know how to repair CRT and have the vacuum back but I'm sure it's expensive

They use to have one of these at the video game shop in Vancouver.....they wouldnt sell it to me :/

When we bought our first house someone had thrown a CRT down into the crawl space and it looked about like this TV does... I had to go down there and lift it out (it was about a 20") and then pick up shards of TV and take it to e-waste... Why the hell would you do that?

As a general rule of thumb, it's around 1K Volts per inch of Tube. Maybe a little more.