We have super similar fit issues! I usually start with a size smaller to fit my shoulders and do a full bust adjustment which usually makes both the bust and waist fit. Technically my measurements usually say 24, but I start with a 20 and make the fba so that the bust is about the size of the 22 according to the pattern measurements.
I know you already have these done, so maybe a future note. Put regular usable phone size pockets in side seams and leave the tulip ones to be smaller. I don't think they are too big, but as a creator you have your own visions. I can't wait to see all of this together.
Cool idea. I personally love the bigger pockets and am sitting here sketching. My daughter however is a size 0...any functional patch pocket looks huge on her. You might have just the thing.
My bunny likes to "halp" too, usually by trying to dig the fabric off "his" carpet, eat the corners off my paper patterns and run off with my scissors... my cutting table is now the top of his dog crate so he's less tempted to halp.
@@davidhutchison3343 me too! It’s great to have a trend setter/instructor to minimize the headache of altering a pattern or existing dress to fit better
Also Dora is so flipping adorable! I had to laugh since my kitties do the same thing whether i'm sewing, or bookbinding or trying to paint my nails. They gotta be a part of it. Dora is pretty enough she really should have a painting done of her!
Happily, this reminds me of an apron my mother wore in the 1950's that had the big tulip pockets. She made it in the 1940's......perhaps late '40's. She also worr a dress with tulip sleeves without the pockets. So special! Thanks for bri ginger in this look! 🌷🌷🌷
I feel you with the narrow shoulders/full bust problem. Taking in the shoulders and adding a BIG dart from the front armhole to the bust point is absolutely standard for me on every single pattern. Looking nice so far!
Know that problem well. If you move that dart fullness into the bust dart or waist dart, everything sits that much better. Also, if you are short waisted removing some length from the bodice across the upper bust area can help
I really like how this dress turned out! The pockets are so cute and spring-y too. I think with the shoulders it's a big 4 patterns problem. They don't seem to grade plus patterns on a realistic block.
First thing first, I don't think one can have too many jumper dresses, just saying 😂 If I remember correctly Bianca from The Closet Historian has a video tutorial on drafting tulip sleeves, I think it was last year? Also now I might have to incorporate tulip pockets in my next project!
That’s such a fun pattern. Love the idea of incorporating flowers into pockets. Also Dora needed to help or hinder your process. The fabric was getting too much attention! She had to fix that!
17:00 Good observation about the darts. From my perspective, though, the dart on the right side looks better than the one on the left, which you prefer. Different strokes, eh? 😂😊
I *don’t* have particularly narrow shoulders but big brand commercial plus size patterns ALWAYS have stupid huge shoulders. I have always chalked it up to bad pattern grading - they have a tendency to just slap on a quarter inch or whatever everywhere even though skeletons don’t work like that
I love the tulip pockets and the tulip sleeves! It's going to be so cute. The extra dart worth of fabric in the arm area and needing extra length in front, leads me to believe you might need a full bust adjustment. Have you ever tried those? Does that help with some of the fitting?
@@LadyRebeccaFashions Well, i could be completely wrong then :) i'm still learning about fitting and adjusting garments. Your videos help a ton with my learning journey!
@@LadyRebeccaFashions Interesting you say that. 🤔 I have learned, to my surprise because I didn’t expect it, that a lot of times fitting things nicely is actually a ‘shape’ issue and not necessarily a ‘size‘ issue! 🤔🧐🙃XXX
First, I like your "crusty" matinee appearance. Feels mid century appropriate. My shoulders are narrow . what I sometimes do is rotate the dart into the shoulder seam....gives a little bit of the princess vibe but still darts. It also shortens the shoulder line which helps my narrow shoulder thing too. Don't know if you used it but I make sleeve heads slot to soak up a little extra length in the shoulder
Food for thougth, the fit issues you have in the bodice is very similar to the ones I have. And I have learned that what I need to do is a full bust adjustment to start off with. It could be that you have the same issue. I can recommend the book 'Ahead of the curve' by Jenny Rushmore all the plus size adjustments in one book.
I hate doing mockups - seems a waste of time - but pattern sizes vary so much, even within the same pattern company, that doing a mockup has become necessary to get a good fit. At least if the dress is too large, you can alter it. I find my garments tend to be too small, so can't be altered.
I wish my thrift stores had stuff like that. I did find a jewelry box stuffed full of cool jewelry at Value Village in Issaquah though. After going through it I'm surprised at the amount that isn't costume jewelry.
I did enjoy this video, I loved the Dora break there in the middle. Have you ever made a bodice block or thought about making one and making these beautiful designs for yourself and not having to work off of industry standard sewing patterns?
I'm starting to get a feel for where I'm going to have to change patterns to fit my shape, even pattern drafting based on my own measurements needs a lot of adjustment because my measurements lie, my bust measures way bigger than it is, my shoulders are narrow too, and my waist... ugh... if it's a dress waistband, it has to be let out a bit because my ribs are needy and I have to be really careful about waist seams or else they add bulk I don't need, and if it's a loadbearing waistband like a skirt or pants, my waistline is two inches lower than the narrowest part of me cause my pudge squishes out of the way till the wasitband's sitting on my hips anyways, and it's gotta be two inches smaller than my waist measures, or else it slides off my barely existeing hips. I've got a feeling that when I start working with darts, I'm never going to want a waist dart and am always going to need a bust dart in a bodice. You're definitely off to a good start, the whole tulip theme is cute. I have yet to get inspired by anything cute for spring since it's been such a rainy dismal one here. I suspect we'll have two weeks of nice spring weather before we get summer...
Don't you hate how pattern sizes vary so much. I have two Butterick pencil skirt patterns and the same sized pattern pieces actually vary by up to two sizes. The size 22 skirt in one pattern is only a size 18 in the other. From the same pattern company !!!!!!!! It makes doing a mockup compulsory
I wonder if some of the need for upper darts is caused by shoulder slope. I have very sloped shoulders. Shoulder bags, dress straps that are not perfectly fitted, cold shoulder tops, they are all a waste for me. When you had the original mock up on with your arms down to your sides, it looked like some of that volume might be able to be taken up in the shoulder. (but it would be impossible to do without an assistant, I think).
Yes and no? It's hard to tell since the bust measurement was overall, and I only increased the back. (Also crazy that they had no finished waist measurement!)
I think sizes are graded by the supposed growth of a slender B cupped girl to a slender B cupped woman. A woman would have wider shoulders than a girl. For plus sizes they just continue that form of expansion. But if you have a larger bust like a D+ cup or you are a plus size your shoulders aren't bigger. From size 16 on up to the xxxs my shoulder has remained 5". Very frustrating buying ready made. But also frustrating trying to fit a pattern. Maybe designers don't want to go to that much trouble either. I also think modern clothes and patterns are made looser to fit more different bodies and make the patterns easier for beginner sewists. I once found a line of jeans in a department store that offered size variations, like crotch depth and hip to waist differences. I found it overwhelming to pick which size to try on in the little time I had to shop. I hate clothes shopping, that's one reason I sew. I'd rather spend time in my sewing room than at a store. At least some patterns offer multiple cup sizes.
