I finally fixed my iNav Compass (and so can you)! 

This is incredible! 😂

It's not as bad as that it just can't be near the motors why the extra inch at back needed

I am agree I can´t make it work

Is Aluminum ok instead of fiberglass?

@@DFEUERMAN Yes and no. Those times it gets knocked off (it is kind of stuck out there) you need it to go back exactly there it was or you need to recalibrate. You don't want to be tempted to just bend it up and go, that causes fly-aways. In principal you could make a mag mount base that pops off easy and drops into the same position every time but I never felt comfortable doing that without testing that it's really is far enough away from the magnet and I haven't gotten around to testing that yet.

@@brocktechnology Interesting. Recalibration seems to be unavoidable. Mag mount might introduce more unwanted field noise, although maybe the noise can be calibrated-out since magnetic field from a magnet is static. The magnet would have to be a very powerful and heavy? Better to just not crash :-) Easier said than done. I've been learning how to TIG weld. I'll recomment here or post a youtube video if my aluminum mast works.

Just shield the gps wires and ground the shielding (copper tape). And you need to get it far away from the machine especially the vrx so if your vtx is in the back you'd need to extend the unit out the back Father put or put in middle.of the front arms away from the motors

i use a thin ethernet cable and i don't solder anything just cut the ends off and use the wires inside for GPS/Compass. For GPS alone a thin USB cable works flawlessly

use a thin USB cable or Ethernet cable instead.

The left one is the direction that inav believes the drone is facing, based on all available sources of information (gyro, compass, GPS, etc). The right one is the GPS heading.

Can you explain a little furter or show some pic?

@Meleonlight as far as what? Micro strip antennas are formed with small lines of wire next to each other separated by a non conductive layer (similar to a battery). If you have a an ac brushless motor turning, the esc is taking bursts of power at a very high frequency. At different throttle levels those frequencies can match up and interfere with video and telemetry signals. On my plane I have a 3s-2p LiOn battery consisting of 6, Samsung 21700 cells, join together with spot welded nickel strips. I have a 40v 480uF capacitor soldered directly to output terminals of the battery. This helps negate the high frequencies within the battery and the cables. As an added measure I ran the battery cables in the shortest manner possible with some aluminum tape covering them from the direction all of my communications electronics which are in the wing. Just a little bit of EMI sheliding and countermeasures can make the biggest difference. But quite honestly if you just space them out far enough, it will more than likely be enough for the average person. I frequently fly 20km+ way point missions with ardupilot and need every bit of signal I can get. (Edit) if you ever get the chance to tear apart a high end consumer drone or plane like something from dji, take notes on how the engineers use small amounts of sheilding in very specific places in order to get the maximum amount of performance with what they're allowed to sell to the general public. Antennas and just radio frequency related stuff in general is a deeeeeep rabbit hole you can go down with trying to optimize and fix problems within your systems. I really find it quite interesting and love to talk about it so sorry for the essay lol.

@@pickeljuice9325 thank you so much for the explanation, you very much said everything i wanted to know, didn't kown about that kind of antennas. And like you, but not at the same level of knowledge lol, want to squeeze every bit of performance/signal out of my 7 inch lt quad that i just build. I Just did the shielding with an usb cable that came shielded and replaced the original wires that came with the gprc m10dq. Before thata, the model on the bf configuratr never stopped to drift. Did the change to inav 7.1 and now seems to be solved, tomorrow its gonna be the day ill be testing that thing jaj. Thanks man

@Meleonlight honestly I've never even though of using shielded usb cables as a means of connecting my components, that might just be the best idea I've ever heard. Going to replace all of my servo leads im using for signals with that now!

Yes, I found it on yeggi but I don't have the link handy.

Adding foil tape doubled the number of GPS sats I locked.

Would it be necessary to ground the shielding to the quad for better results, like twisting a piece of aluminum, isolating it with heatshrink and soldering it from the shielding to a ground spot on the quad?

I think that would improve its effectiveness, but my tape was not soldered, and still made a big difference.

It's more like the wonders of programming.

Just one question: did you watch the video?

@@mixmasteru 1:?;2:OSD_GROUND_COURSE/OSD_HEADING and btw I used less chars to respond than you...;)

I got it all off Thingiverse but I don't have the links right now.

Same here. Makes a world of difference

I've found the super thin ethernet cables or USB cable works like a charm too

The first video was the factory alignment exactly as iFlight delivers.

I know, but on the first video you didn’t set it to flipped, and you had drift. When moved, the heading reacts to the accelerometer first, and then drifts to what the compass says.

standart precision gnss receivers has to be at least 1.5m away from each other for that to work

BF patreon

Quads were bigger then so greater clearance distances also most builders put the GPS?Compass unit on a tall mask. not many NAZA FC's went on 5" quads

A lot of factory quads at that time positioned the GPS antenna and compass in a place that goes and doesn't have electromagnetic interference with the quad or on newer quad they have copper/aluminum shielding between the GPS and electronic components of the quad. This info gets overlooked when buying ready to fly quads or DIY builds because most people use Betaflight without the GPS capability which got added relatively recently.

And for those of us not aware of this issue, or perhaps don’t have the required RU-vid-fu to search the right question? Stop being arrogant, and just don’t comment or watch the video.

Money. And complete control over the hardware.