You simply never fail to impress me with your honesty and keen observations. This truly shows incredible integrity. Please don’t lose it. Love the content, cheers!
Too bad it didn't do better, loved the sheath and various mounting options. Also just the right size for a bearded head. But aye a hatchet shouldn't be taking that kind of damage. Literal deal breaker.
Honestly insane, my uncle has been a Forester for his entire life and my hand accidentally grazed one of his axes like I mean the slightest touch and it split my entire hand open
@@sethsmallwoodsliterally same shit happened to me the other day. barely nicked my palm with grandpas old axe and cut it open easy. he’d be happy to know i’ve kept her sharp 🤣🤦🏻♂️
@NikosKatsikanis if it dose have a burnt edge, that happens when the edge is over heated when the factory sharps the tool, a few times with a file or stone usually removes the edge material that was damaged. The idea of burnt edges is that the steels heat treat is ruined at the edge from most likely a belt sander sharpening.
On every single axe that I ever had, that small "glinting" appeared after first use but not so much later. It's never been a real issue either. But I would definitely rather have a simple steel like 1055 or 1095 on an axe, I have CRKT's Woods Chogan in 1055 and I have zero complains.
sk5 is japanese 1095, so I don't know what you mean by simple steel, sk5 is a simple, and also very cheap steel. Silky uses it in their expensive machetes/axes and it is quite nice for forest work
@@XenonLxx sk5 is an extremely cheap steel, but because it is a domestic Japanese made steel it's "special." But really not. Cheapest sk5 knife you can buy would be the Hultafors outdoor knife or the Hultafor heavy duty gk. It's like 15 bucks, mine came rough, but 100% indestructable
@@escapetherace1943 The Hultafors knives are great, and half the price of Mora over here. SK5 typically has small amounts of nickel, chromium and copper that AISI 1095 doesn't. Probably doesn't really matter, it's a good basic carbon steel. Proper heat treatment makes or breaks any steel anyway. A properly hardened carbon steel is just fine for an axe.
For the first time I missed you hitting the handle but I am happy you have done it 😅 I really appreciate your test thank you for doing them! Greetings from Hungary!
From personal experience, a handle with grooves, or small bumps can cause blisters on the hand after a not so long period of chopping, but grooves arents so bad
This particular product is American in origin. Designed for consumers who want to look and feel like outdoorsmen by paying 400 dollars for an axe, while not actually ever using the axe for axe related things.
@@RottingFarmsTVIsn't it a positive thing that Americans literally didn't even have to use axes anymore? Kinda sounds like complaining over indoor plumbing
@@scatman8963 For sure. That hooked handle is nifty for not letting it escape your grasp easily. If you were fending off a pair of ISIL stinkies in Iraq in an apartment, just for gits & shiggles, and you were in a SHTF sitch because you never clean your M4 and it was all crazy jammed, and you weren't issued a sidearm or shotgun, though I was a combat recovery operator and staunchly Death Before Dismount (Hey! I liked bein' on the FITTY and up and down that BEAST over my career cost me 2 dull inches in height when I was retired) I'd rather swing Skeggox than a Knife in a sweaty confined space with. You disagree? James(?) Williams designed Skeggox, as well as Otanashi Noh Ken, Hissatsu, Goken, and other combat focused blades. They all have a similar tactical, nearly impractical thing going on.🤷♀🥷🔪
Id like to see a small axe made with DC53 steel. It’s basically ingot formed cruware. I think it would make for a excellent chopper - super tough even at a HRC 60-62 and holds an edge a bit better than D2.
I am really impressed with CRKT Eat N Tool. I have pride nails up with the tangs. It only cost $5 and beats a plastic spork any day. Pocket sized...I used it a lot when I was homeless.
Finger grooves are not the way with a hard use tool, it’s going to cause hot spots. A good non slip grip and proper geometry are the best solution. Having a hook at the bottom is great for safety but the handle needs to be designed so that it isn’t pressing up on your pinky or you will have the same hot spot issues along with compressing the pinky and ruining your grip. I just look for traditional designs in my tool handles and grips, they used tools hard back then and knew what worked.
If it weren’t for the price I’d probably buy one. I’ve stippled guns and axes and hatchets. So a little texture on that and is say that’s a keeper. Looks really nice.
It‘s not only lacking a proper handle, but it’s also one piece of metal, so the vibrations traveling from the blade to the handle will accumulate into pain over time.
Great content again. Don't have an sk5 blade myself, so I don't know much about it. Could the edge damage be caused by the broken knife tips stuck into that log?
I have the browning shock and Awe tomahawk. Love it. Full tang beast. Spike at the back end and very sharp front axe head. Used it so many times camping and the blade edge is perfect. 1055 carbon good edges and retain well
Axes and hatchets are supposed to be heat treated, softer. So they can be sharpened with a file. Im assuming this blade is probably hardened around 52-54, Rc. Im not bothered by a small amount of damage to the edge. Edge damage on this hatchet is not because of steel or heat treatment. Its because of edge geometry because of the slim profile of the blade the edge is a more shallow grind than you would normally find on an axe blade. As someone who makes knives, finger grooves on a grip are a definite no-no. When you are chopping, the handle is rotating in your hand. Finger grooves will create an uncomfortable grip.
i have an original Bridgeport Tool original Official Boy Scout hatchet and a new Estwing hatchet of which I am equally fond and both habe served me equally well. Both are solid one-piece forged steel, and I wouldn't have anything else.
I’d like to see you review the wicing 13 inch bearded hatchet. It’s apparently 1095 steel with a beech handle. Super cheap. I have one coming here soon and I’m playing is it junk with my own Christmas present to save a few 😂
It has long seemed to me that blade makers often trade durability for easier sharpening and a sharper end result .but a result that doesn't last. Idk if it's just like because they are choosing cheap materials or If it is done on purpose because so few people know enough to count , and they think " razor sharp" is the be-all-end-all . While blades need to be sharp ,I personally prefer to have a blade that is more durable , holds and edge longer but maybe doesn't get literally razor sharp .one Common example is properly heat treated and normalized D2 tool steel. Needs a bench grinder or belt sander to get it sharp, holds an edge for months of hard use .is extremely strong and durable against breaking ,bending , abrasion, impact ,ect .
I think that flat bevel is the among biggest problems on these fad chasing tacticool hatchets with that thin ass stamped blade stock. A convex grind , if posssible on such thin material, would certainly make the edge more durable!
The youtube gods knew I was in the market for a hatchet and here you are Edit: any chance you could review their "Jenny Wren Compact" hatchet? I'm going for something that could easily fit in a messenger bag for self defense, survival and general fooling around in the woods.
Foreal it's not a camping hatchet, it's a tactical tomahawk for self defense. I hand make these from realy old leaf springs do the heat treat temper in a small charcoal forge. Just not heavy enough to chop fire wood . Except in a survival situation. Then anything becomes a tool .
Big fan of what you do. I was curious how the Cold Steel Master Hunter in 3v would do on the sideways bash test. Since it’s the same thickness but shorter than the SRK maybe it would be less likely to bend. Also I’ve been hoping for a while you’d test the terävä jääkäripuukko 110 in 80CrV2 Steel it has held up phenomenally on other stress tests I’ve seen. I just wanna see if it can eat that sideways bash.
It’s all about the bevel gransfors bruk has the same problem the edge is to thin in my opinion there needs to be a micro bevel and it needs to thicker that would stop a lot of the chipping
Hey man, I don't know if you've ever received or reviewed any Buck knives before, but I think it'd be great to see you review something like a Buckmaster 184 or 185. I know they're old and very expensive, but I had to ask anyway.
Hey I know it's expensive but I would love if you would do a video on the German km 2000 it's what I personally use for my everyday carry and would be curious to see somebody put it through hell and back although I have absolutely no doubts that it would survive and passed with flying colors
Axes with metal full tangs like that instead of real handles are definitely made by people who don’t use axes. I’ve had a bunch of axes and hatchets over the years and I can say with confidence that basically nothing is as good as hardwood on a hand tool. It’s easy to replace and the least hard on your hands and knuckles. Inb4 fiberglass. You can keep that crap. I like being able to pull my splitting maul from the log when it fails to split.
That would could have particulate inside that would dull any steel on the planet. I’ve broken down some logs that have glinted edges immediately from all the dirt and shit
The hook is great but more swell on the heel of the haft would have done more good. In practice if feels like it's going to swivel out of your grip. My answer was a hockey tape twist wrap, but the design is flawed.
The design feels more like an emergency use item not an every day hatchet. Looks like it's designed to fit in an emergency pack out kit better than your more traditional hatchets.
Hey mate, I always enjoy what you show... but I am a little confused. That doesn't look like a survival hatchet... I know I am probably wrong, but it looks more weapon than rescue... ya know... anyways keep up the greatness... cheers
