The aluminum pan may have warped when you welded the bung. Do you have a spare block? Get a new pan and weld a new bung but bolt the pan to a block with no gasket before you do. Also, stitch weld the bung so you don't put a bunch of heat into the pan. The puff of smoke could be the turbo oil drain backing up. When you shut the car off, the oil doesn't drain fast enough and a small amount backs up and since there's no positive pressure on the compressor side of the seal, it leaks into the compressor housing. It doesn't smoke when it's running because there's positive pressure in the compressor housing. I know you said the drain only needs to be lower than the turbo, but I've seen issues with oil backing up due to the feed being pressurized. It's possible for oil to feed into the turbo faster than gravity can drain it. Whatever it is... It's in the turbo, not the engine. Of course, I could be completely wrong on both, but just spit-balling based on my own personal experience.
once the engine shuts off, there is no longer oil coming from the feed, so the drain just drains into the pan. i don't see how it would back up and overflow into the compressor housing. there was no evidence of oil on the compressor side. he never showed the piping, but i highly doubt that's it. that turbo looked pretty healthy.
Let it get to temp with the turbo off and the turbo feed capped. Let it sit and see if it does it after the 15 minute window. Will let you know internal or turbo problem. Also let me know if you need DSM parts. I am located in CT and have quite a lot of stuff.
I think the welded corner is warped and pressing on the block/gasket so it seals properly. The rest will not seat, there a slight gap or less pressure, hence the leak. That's just a guess but it matches the symptoms.
Love how this channel actually talks and explains things about all of the cars he works on, amazing channel, great job Alex, and Peter seems like a stand up dude you guys work great together! Keep it up legit street cars! And deffinaly the Trans Am is bad ass! Throw the t-56 back in it and record it for us!
I absolutely love this car. I'm a Camaro guy, but I love the birds too. I absolutely love the way you built it and kept it looking original inside and out and you didn't hack it or do anything to ruin it. This car is a perfectly built street car that has working ac and a stereo and ttops. Just awesome man. Never get rid of it no matter what.
I'm a Ford guy and I think it's cool too. My car also looks almost factory stock from the outside and the interior changes are all hidden. The only clue is the larger exhaust tips...
I think the trans am is hideous. Way to busy. And a turbo ls is so played out. But back when Alex built it it was new stuff and he was pioneering on a budget which is very admirable. Also just so i don't sound like a total hater the wheels the white with black leather... all his mods are very tasteful and make the car look much better. Its definitely a legit street car. But its butt ugly lol
@@byron1dagg80 I was 'gushing' without being 'gay' . . . okay? Alex is just a great guy, was probably a great boss, even though very young for his position . . . Peter is also great.
I must say, Peter is the happiest person I have ever seen. The man always has a smile. Cannot picture him angry or upset. Stay that way Peter. People like that are rare these days❤️
Now pull apart the rest of the cold side and hot side and check the intercooler and charge pipes for extra oil inside. It will tell you if there was any extra oil blowing past the turbo when hot. Also make sure you have enough crank case ventilation. Too much crank case pressure could blow oil back into the intake side of the intake system.
I'm with you on the oil puff being the turbo leaking. My Audi TT did the same thing and would only do it when it was warmed up. The clearances open up when the turbo warms up. Plus theres no oil in the turbo on a cold start. It all drains back into the oil pan. If it was a manual it would probably do it when you shifted gears. For the oil leak take the pan off and throw the gasket away and use RTV on it. Hey if it good enough for Mercedes. On that note, WHY HAVENT YOU CHANGED THE RADIO YET?? lol You cant be a legit street car without having bluetooth.
I think it could be the thrust bearing + oil seal (probably looks a bit like a mini piston ring) on the turbo axel in the bearing block of the turbo. That's where the exhaust gasses might pull some hot thin oil into the turbine housing and out the exhaust.
expanding on that, the "sweet spot" temperature thing could be because of different thermal expansion rates. When "cold" it holds due to thick oil and non-expanded casing/seals/etc. When "hot", you have fully expanded shaft/seals/casing. The in-between may be when the turbine housing is outpacing the shaft /oil seal + the already running temp oil viscosity.
Hmm. Well this is my troubleshooting brain thinking about this blue smoke issue. A few questions. What is the block made of, cast iron, aluminum, or billet? If there a sleeved cylinder? Are they all sleeved and if so what is the sleeve made of compared to the block? What material are the piston rings made of? What was the clearance between cylinder wall and piston rings? Could there be an anomaly in one cylinder of oil getting past a ring only after it heats up and the oil gets less viscous from a full heat cycle? Maybe the cylinder wall expands just enough to let oil get past a ring during these conditions only? Definitely curious to figure this one out. I might be completely off track but I remember my uncle who used to race sprint cars not liking the idea of using sleeved blocks, but that was before the LS engines came out and sleeving in drag applications was common.
@@chevyracerzx6 What you're suggesting would be if it smoked while running. It's odd for blowby to induce oil burn on start -up - hence why valve seals were already ruled out. Blow by would also host a lot of other notable problems with a boosted/ 1000hp application - such as noticeable pressure out of the valve covers as well as oil washing/dilution with gas pushing through the rings. The only other way of oil getting in the top end on startup would be through the turbo. Either by it seeping into the compressor housing, burning in turbine housing as suggested by the OP comment, or by oil return problems.
Awesome, the TA was one of main reasons I began following you, hopefully one day I can bring my 2000 Arctic White Ws6 m6 out that way from Iowa. Can’t wait to see the rebuild.
You can’t fake that kind of joy! Love the laughter and giant grins. Very cool car, sir. If you’d like, I’m only 3 hours away and promise to drive it for you if you store it here.
This video resonates so deeply with me! Not only was the WS6 also my high school dream car, but I also have your same "LSC" philosophy with my with my ATS-V. A 10-second daily driver (winter too!). Hopefully our cars will find each other on the Kennedy, Addams or the Edens some day soon!
Love 4th Gen TAs. Want to get a 30th Anniversary when I retire. Has to be a 6 speed manual. Would settle for a Trans Am Firehawk. On your car I think the issue is the turbocharger seals.
I would say the oil seal on the turbo is most likely. Have them look carefully at the seals if you send it in. If they are double lipped seals I would guess the inner lip is cut. Can’t wait for the update on the new turbo!
20 likes (as of this post) on the "rubber seals" in a turbo... c'mon, people! most oil burning issues in a turbo system come from inadequate drains, not "seals" which are actually like piston rings...
It sounds PCV related to me. Hot spot in the engine causes some vapors to condense? Although most boosted guys remove PCV and vent to atmosphere. Interesting car.
Love the passion for a car you’ve had so long. My rally car is something similar in that I bought it new 22 years ago as my wife’s daily car. There isn’t a original bit in it today with 3 times the horse power etc. you really get to know the car. I know every nut and bolt. Loving the videos.
You can tell how much you love the car by how you were able to notice such a small plume of smoke that happens so infrequently. I can relate, I can instantly tell a difference or feel a difference in my cars
My friend had a black on black WS6 in high school and it's always been my dream car. It's the reason I got a Grand Am GT in high school so I could pretend I was driving a "real Pontiac", which it was not, but it did have those cool orange dash lights. 😆One day I hope I can get into a WS6, in the meantime I'll live through Alex 🤣
I know what you mean when you say , " you cant punch it on a turn , only a strait away ". Scary shit . I have a 2002 4th gen camaro. It came with an ls6 block and a ls6 intake. Love your Trans AM. Wish my car sounded just like it. Wow Wee.
Great job as always. You have quickly become one of my favorites to watch with fun cars, entertaining personality from you and guests, and sharing tons of knowledge. Keep it up!
@@rajeshcharan2803 agree. Oil control rings, stem seals or turbo seal. Possible odd egr issue or catch can reflux. added....oil control ring gap directly open to compression ring gap possible. I would run it as is and deal later if it gets worse.
Leave turbo off, remove y pipe to headers, start engine and let it warm up, than let it sit like you said for 10-15 mins, than watch the exhaust come out of both banks and see which side the smoke comes from. It will narrow it down for you if its just one side. If no smoke than it was the turbo.
breakup when coming into boost can also be spark blowout. i know a lot of higher hp cars use brisk silver plugs which are frequently changed every 3k miles or so the gap starts to widen and you start experiencing blowout. some bigger turbo builds will use stage 2 cooler plugs with a 0.025 gap to or pro mods using down to a .015 gap which is really incredible!
I’m thinking that the puff of smoke could be happening because when the oil completely warms up, it gets thinner and it can leak through more places… maybe once it’s warm it takes 15-20 minutes to leak into a certain spot and then when you start it back up in that time frame it will burn it but if you don’t start it up In That time frame (start too soon) it will not have leaked yet or (start too long after) it’s not as easy to burn the oil because it’s not all clumped up in one spot or the engine isn’t still hot enough to burn the oil as easily… only thing I can think of!
By 4:39 I'm putting my money on one question: After welding on that pan, did you straightedge all mounting points on it? As to the smoke... where in the intake/combustion/exhaust cycle could a source of oil drain in after being heated because the oil was now thin enough to reach that area whereupon gravity takes over and pulls it into the cycle?
A cracked oil ring, crushed valve seal or excessive valve guide wear or crack. Turbo oil seals do weird things too. My son and I had a couple of GN's I used to race.
I'd replace the oil pan to start. Especially since you welded that bung on there and all the heat the motor is generating could cause a slight warping of the pan! Also as for the RTV they make a high temp which I'm guessing you used but they also make a oil resistant one as well thats better oil pans! Just food for thought bro! Keep up the great work🔥
Could it just be the gap in the rings? I've heard that during start-up (in the exact same conditions you described) this can happen because the rings expand and contract a different speeds than the aluminum block. Especially if they've been gapped enough for big boost. Perhaps the block is cooling just a bit faster than the rings (or visa versa) during that 10 min rest and when you start the car it just throws a type of blow-by out? Maybe a long shot, but thought I'd throw it out there! Good luck with the fix, can't wait to see what it is
Alex (FYI) RE: time mark 21:10 - I put in an aftermarket solid mount (replacing my Bird's "rag joint") after replacing my steering rack too. Like yours, my car's rag joint looked perfect, but WOW (!) that solid mount made a big difference. It is worth considering if you still are unhappy after you replace the steering rack and it was very cost effective. : )
I have no idea on the puff of smoke, but I love your TA. I've owned fourth gen Firebirds for 20 years and absolutely love them. Always a great day when you post a new video on this car.
Love your content Alex, and I don't fix cars, nor do i want to, but your content and delivery is very entertaining, something I look forward to on a Sunday morning here in Australia. Pete is a great addition.
I had a similar issue, only known to me because i know my car so well. My issues where with the rings, heating and cooling causing a small amount of gap and causing a tiny amount of blow -by under the right ( or wrong ) conditions, depending which way you look at it. When i rebuilt the ls years later used a bigger ring gap and never had the issue again ( also boosted Ls) I don't think it's anything to worry about personally. Just my experience
I am a Trans Am guy myself. I kind of wish mine was turbo'd. Mine is just an LS1/6 speed with a cam and heads. It does however induce similar smiles on the faces of everyone in the seats. These are what modern classics should do. Produce smiles, memories, and conversations almost everywhere it goes. I bought mine to be fun on Friday and to startle people in the parking lot. I went for the 6 speed as it is a dying breed of us out there that can row through the gears. Awesome Video, Thanks for the reminder. I am going to start it up when i get home, just to scare the neighbors and rattle some windows. 😉
as for the oil leak sounds like your getting positive pressure in the crankcase , due to weak rings ,hopefully its just a warped pan, or maybe an anomaly with the turbo giving excessive boast at start up
I'm right there with ya on 20+ years of ownership. I've had my 87 Cutlass Ciera S coupe since March 17, 1998. Bought her when I was 16. I know her in and out. She still looks great too. Only one like it in NW OH, hell, maybe all of OH, lol.
Fuel has been over $8/gal in Europe for a while (5+ years). It briefly went over $9 recently (Europe 95(RON) = USA 91(PON) = 87MON) What would YOU drive with prices like that?
Sweet car I remember seeing it around the neighborhood. I went to Ebinger with Ornella. So great to see local people successful and happy. Awesome channel I just subscribed. I sold my IROC-Z several years ago but this makes me want to get something to work on again. All the best, Kent Davies
Disconnect the PCV and see if resolves the smoke issue. You can also measure your crankcase preesure/vacuum under boost as well to see how much blowby is building up in the crankcase as well. There are a lot of articles of people installing crankcase vacuum pumps to scavenge the excessive gasses and add horsepower as well.
I love how thorough Alex can be with his cars! There are times he picks up on things that often go unnoticed, and it really shows with the quality of his cars!
My money is the front main seal (oil leak) They need to be centered with the HB before they’re tightened down to 18ft#. I used amazons cheap dye kit when I put too much positive pressure in my crankcase 🫠. Rear main was a PITA on 4 jack stands. 👍 on the oil less. Heard good things. Looking at two CTR3081E-5858. Good luck with the build y’all!
I just bought my first TA!!! It's almost impossible to beat the looks! The oil smoke is most likely the turbo or the PCV system when it cools the oil puddles up, and then gets sucked up when the engine spins up.
Loved this video. I miss my 2002 Camaro SS 6 speed. I hope you keep publishing these refresh videos of the TA. About the TA oil smoke…could it be some kind of Turbo blow by? Maybe install a catch can? Keep up the great work!!
Woaw, this car is LegitStreetCar of LegitStreetcar, the channel, meanwhile the teammascot. It deserves only the best of the best for sure! How did a rearwheel drive ever get 9 second times with full interior? 😅 I can only say, bravo! 😄
I'm agreeing with a couple of the replies about the turbo. But also double check your PVC valve system too. I'm sure you've upgraded it when added the turbo. Years ago my stock 02 Yukon XL Denali 6.0 had that problem, found a bulletin on that issue. I put a new pvc valve in & that cured it. BTW Love your content, I've been watching your channel for a few years now & really enjoy your videos. I'm a Chicago area automotive nut too all GM!! Keep up the great work.
I thought I would relax after carrying out a TSB on our V10 5.2 S8 myself on the throttle body loom wiring which didn't take too long to sort out but then the engine was making a high pitch scream on start. TB's have a vacuum leak. 😳 🙄😒 Turns out, Alex your video was not long enough! I don't feel relaxed! 😭
My first bet on what the puff of blue smoke is from would be, as others have said, your turbo thrust seal. However, even though I know you said you just had the engine built, I'm wondering what type of piston rings you're using and what your piston ring-end gap measurements are. Valve seals would be smoke at start-up until lubricated/warm. As you stated, it only does it sometimes and when warm, but not hot or cold. This leads me to think that you're getting a small amount of oil into a combustion chamber that's burning, which upon a warm start-up is released briefly as blue smoke. Of course, I could just be flat-out wrong and it could be some other seal or gasket or drip or whatever...
Honestly I don’t have any idea what could be causing the intermittent smoking, however, it does seem pretty clear that it’s oil viscosity and maybe gravity related. Head gasket? Turbo? It could be valve seals/head related since it doesn’t happen on cold start, and doesn’t happen on a hot start, but a warm start gives gravity time to let the lower viscosity hot oil to get into the combustion chamber somehow. Thoughts, Alex?
My turbo civic did the oil thing, turned out to be a seized ring in the ringland. After it warmed up and after a bit of a cool down before a more warm start would let enough heat in the piston to expand the ringland enough to release the ring. Then no more smoke. But I rebuilt in with new pistons and permanently fixed it.
Go back and watch the part right b4 you did the burnout and you will see a slight bit of smoke when you get into boost. Check and see if you are getting a bit of blow by. It could be crankcase pressure building up under boost. This is why you always run a catch can on boosted applications. It help prevent that from happening.
I think you need to send your WS6 to me to diagnose your oil leak. I should have it figured out for you in a couple of months!! You don't drive the car very much anyway so you wont miss it!! Great channel Alex and your wing man Peter!! Very enjoyable!!! Cheers from Canada!
I have worked in my driveway on my back for decades working vehicles. But I have slowly started to take care just work on my own vehicles if I can & if not it goes to a local shop now. Be safe
Currently in the slow restoration phase with my 94 Lightning. Got it when I was 16 in '04 and had it ever since. I have similar goals in mind as you have with your Trans Am, gives me a bad itch to scratch!
My story is not unlike yours. In 2007 (my first year of college) I bought my '02 SS Camaro with 22k miles on it by saving money working during high school. The car is pewter with a 6 speed trans. In the past 15 years I've only put an additional 22k miles on it and have garage kept it the entire time. I still have the factory wheels and Goodyear tires put away as I bought z06 reproductions not long after the car. I've modded it, naturally. I don't plan on ever getting rid of it. Unfortunately, my hydraulic slave cylinder and master cylinder have gone out and the clutch now sticks to the floor after being depressed. Haven't had the opportunity to fix it or drive it in over a year. Seeing your TA gives me the motivation to get my mint condition SS back on the road one day soon.
I would try checking the PCV system for your puff of smoke problems, because of the period of time that you describe when it happens I think the car goes into cold start for about a minute before it realises it doesn’t need to , and if the PCV system is playing up crankcase pressure would’ve pushed oil into The inlet manifold to be burnt off rather than burning off excess fuel vapour, basically check the one-way valves and make sure they’re all working
Looking forward to seeing what the issue is with the TA. While I love my BMWs, I am also a big GM fan, and a Pontiac fan in particular. I still want an 04-06 GTO someday.
I'm a car guy, but not a mechanic guy (I tried, but I failed), so I'd love to be able to give you an idea about the issue, but I can't. That said, I can say I love your T/A and love the idea of modding it, while keeping it street worthy.
Wondering if the turbo is good, you may need to look at your valley cover. Thats assuming you pull pcv from that? The LS6 covers is what I always used with newer valve covers.
I don’t know much about the Pontiac but here in Germany we have this type of issue in VW and Audi and it’s very common. It can be the piston oil scraper Rings
Pcv system isn’t working correctly and pressure builds up in the block (oil leak around the bottom panel)so when it is cooling down(time passes) oil gets into the return pipe. The smoke only appears when it’s still hot inside so the oil can burn off immediately after starting. Only my humble opinion. 2001-2008 Volvo t5 has similar issues
You mentioned that after not driving a fast car for a while then getting back in it feels like its even faster. Boy that is so true. Ok, I know this isn't Trans Am Fast but I'm proud of my Impala, 13 LTZ with the 3.6L 300 HP, 0-60 at about 5.9 seconds. Fast enough for me. But since I drive and deliver orders to people I drive a Prius C all day, everyday for months. 0-60 in some time later today. LOL. About 12 seconds in reality. Monday I go back in the Impala, drove it to the gas station, then when I was leaving I punched it. Wow it was fast. Like you said feels fast for sure.
Your oil return is backing up. It needs to be a smooth transition to the oil pan. That fitting making an “L” into the pan is causing it. When you shut it off, it backs up and the oil seal in the turbo leaks.
Re puff of smoke I would start with engine breather system coz quick enough to do. Failing that it could be turbo seals, looking forward to hearing the diagnosis. Love the channel, what ever happened to the F150?
I think your puff of smoke is the shaft seal between the high and low side of the turbo. Temperature expansion just in that range. Maybe a brass surface? So it will expand and contract faster than the housing?
