Excellent vid. Helped me out tremendously. I had almost exactly the same issue. With the addition of previous owner dropping a small ball bearing in between the pushrod and mushroom to take up the wear!!! Some people should not be allowed near tools!
I'm just about to reassemble the motor for my 1978 SR There was a little wear on one end of the rod you repaired The local machinist knows the 500s well and said it was usable and not to worry about replacing it but the part was so inexpensive from Yamaha I got a new one anyway I also bought a new shaft the part the cable attaches to that goes down through the case and works against the rod you repaired my bike is relatively high milage and there was excessive wear in the hole where the pin that attaches the linkage that holds the end of the cable to the lever at the top of the shaft The bottom of the shaft where the rod works against it wasn't as worn as the one in your video and again my trusted machinist said it was usable and I supose I could've gotten the worn hole welded up and redrilled but the new shaft was so reasonably priced from Yamaha I bought a new one The Shaft was around $45 or $50 Australian from Yamaha I saw a NOS shaft the same selling on ebay at some place in England for $175au Because of the only recently discontinued SR400 you can still get just about anything for my 1978 SR500 direct from Yamaha and a lot of it is surprising economic to buy You'll often see secondhand parts or NOS parts selling for twice the price or more than the same parts from Yamaha They can also supply a lot of the original 78 parts but unlike the newer 400 parts that you can simply order off their internet site you have to speak to them over the phone to check availability for the 78 parts About the only things you can't get are the rear disc brake and master cylinder parts that were only fitted to the 78 79 American/Canadian and Australian/New Zealand models A lot of the parts for the recent SR400 still use the same 2J2 numbers used on the originals Somethings are different but still usable I just had some things arrive including three 5mm countersunk screws that secure a plate that retains a gearbox bearing and instead of philips heads they are torque heads, if I'd spoken to them I'm sure they could've have supplied the original philips, but they'll do
Well it looks like my sr400 is suffering the same issue. So as the engine is drained anyway it looks like I should inspect the clutch and the pushrod. Thanks for the excellent video
Thanks. - pulled the actuator out and scored just like yours and the adjuster cam so well worn. Will pop the clutch out next week and inspect the rod but assuming that’s going to need looking at also.
The end pieces of the rod should be fixed to the rod.this happened on mine,i retrieved the broken end with a magnet drilled and tapped rod and spiral end and re fitted.
My thought would be the seal that sits just under the spring. You can use a generic oil seal of this size: 17x28x6 or search via the OEM part # 93102-17148 or 93102-17357 Hope that helps, good luck!
@@oneupmotogarage ...also, I'd love to upgrade my SR 500 to LED lights and speedometer, have you by any chance planned to do such work and would make a vid?
@@pmacc3557 You can see what that does, but it won't likely stop an oil leak from that seal unless your clutch pivot arm is really worn in one spot. That's possible depending on the mileage. You could adjust it to a new spot (raise or lower it a little) and then get the clutch play feeling right again using the other adjuster (at the lever).
I have the same bike. The part that the throttle cables connect to (trying to run new ones) is not moving as if it’s locked. Any suggestions as to what would be causing that or fixing it??
Are you running the push and pull cables on a stock carb? Could you have them ran backwards? That will make it feel locked. Also if you haven't cleaned the carb recently maybe some old sticky gas is making the slide stick. Or the pumper linkages can get seized sometimes which will make the throttle not able to move.
If you are running both cables, I would suggest removing the push cable and only using the pull. It's way easier to setup, adjust and get a snappy throttle that way.
@@oneupmotogarage OK, you're right, I went back and looked it up, the 125 was a 2 stroke, had an oil pump. I was only in the 8th grade back then and fell in love with motorcycles. The kid that lived next door to me had an old Honda 100 street/dirt bike and he and I would ride that thing all over the base housing and on the dirt roads of Kansas. Couldn't get lost, the whole county back roads are 1 mile by 1 mile, just make a big square. We had a blast till the motor seized one day and that was the end of that. By that time, my dad retired and we moved to Louisiana. Didn't ride a bike again till I was in college, then it was my buddy's Honda 350 while my trans am was getting repaired in the shop from someone hitting me. Everyone's xmas gift that year was small, no room other than my pockets to shop in. Had to put the bike down one time when I had a lady pull out in front of me and I also learned real quick to watch out for grooved roads on the interstate. uggg
@@mikewalker1081 Yea the 2 stroke guess was based on your age, it wasn't until around the 80's that Yamaha had 4 stroke enduros that size I thiiiiink. Little 2 strokes were all the rage in the 60's and 70's!
Video is great and channel is solid my dude, but SR500 are all crap bikes. I have had 4 now with this exact issue. They were a terrible design by Yamaha, only God knows why people even want this junk still considering what is now available.
Interesting, I've had several and this was the first one I had this issue with. But it does seem to have been a fairly common issue with them from what I hear. Overall though I like them. I just had one of the fuel injected remakes in the shop and it was pretty neat to ride.
