Friend, I like how you analyze and solve the many problems that arise from engine adaptations. I have a 96 Explorer with that F302 5 L engine. and I removed the automatic transmission, replacing it with a manual transmission from a 1994 F150 and the clutch remained malfunctioning, and I continue investigating. Go ahead congratulations
Hey there, I'm doing the 4R70W swap in a 65 Fastback myself. The 4R70W has a slightly deeper(longer) bell housing than the AOD. So it's longer overall than the AOD. The trans cross member you bought, it may have been designed for only the AOD. Swapping the engine mounts, solved yer trans mount problem, while worsening yer steering ram interference issue.. You will less room for you radiator and fan combo, though, with the right parts, is still easily overcome. Ron Morris makes custom engine mounts, that provide like an 1 1/2" for to aft adjustability, as well an 1" or so up and down. Though yer swapped stock mount trick, is epic !!! That said, I bought the Ron Morris mount, for that flexibility. I also installed the Borgeson power steering box as well, cannot recommend it enough, good clean product. I'll be watching you pal, that nervous laugh, is hysterical !!!! You just earned a subscriber !! Keep at it brother!!!
Thanks man! That makes a LOT of sense, I'm pretty sure that swap crossmember was listed as an AOD. I actually thought I had AOD-E early on in the build due to some confusion with a Ford parts department. Been learning about this Ford stuff as I go along. Haha.
@@noboltsleftbehind it sure helps having youtube, when doing some jobs. The old Chilton manuals were good, but they only like doing things by the book. engine swaps don't like the book way. 🙂
Nice video. Just a thought from a novice, I had a friend that had a Ford Explorer and the whole top end of the motor grenaded because his motor had some plastic parts in the valve train that break and cause the timing to jump and the valves hit the pistons. Not sure what year or size motor but I know it is a known issue on some of the Explorer engines. He replaced the motor with a used one and had his mechanic replace the plastic parts with aftermarket metal ones so it didn't happen again. Just thought you might want to look into it if it applies to your engine and replace while you're repowering. It might have been a plastic timing chain tensioner?
If you upgrade to a Borgeson steering system, you will not have that issue with power steering ram. I have it on my 67 and it clears nicely because you don't have that stuff any longer! Are you planning on centering your rear end? I did it and do not regret it. It isnt necessary but it opened up wider wheel choices for me. I really am enjoying your videos and your nervous laugh gets me everytime. Thanks man and stay greasy.
I’m really considering the Borgeson setup, I’d really like to reduce the complexity and I’m concerned about how the pressure and return lines move with the steering valve when the car turns. Wasn’t planning on modifying the diff, did you do the cut/weld the axle tube and use two passenger side axles?
Is the explorer computer going to be flashed to also run the 4R70W? or are you going to have a stand alone controller like usshift from baumann electronic controllers???
I wonder whether the left/right markings were based on sitting behind the wheel or standing in front of the car looking at the motor? Its a beautiful day for me in Huntington Beach and I hope your Saturday is going great.
Thank you sir! It’s nice here too only a few miles north of you. Not sure which direction the markings are supposed to be from but the half full of photos I found online showed everyone with their mounts in the set back position so I think it was “correct” the first way.
I think I’ve seen where someone used the transmission tale shaft from an AOD on the AODe. Also, did you put the frame mounts for the motor on the right side, never seen an oil pan hit that crossmember? Asked that half way through the video 😅 should have watched until the end.
Haha. The tailshaft wasn’t the giving me much of a problem, it was the transmission oil pan that was hitting the crossmember. Of course flipping the motor mounts solved both issues so who knows.
@@wolfthornhawkridge5705 ah ok. I’lm gonna try and use the original mechanical one but I think there may be some sort of funky dual manual/electronic sensor thing for the 4R70W? I’m still researching that
23.45 onwards. The crack runs from what appears to be a 1/2 inch diameter hole to the edge. There appears to be a crack a few inches to the right of it but it could be a rusty weld.
@@noboltsleftbehind You're welcome. Missing things is easy when focused on something else. Glad to help you, all the way from England. I'm interested in your project as I owned a 6 cylinder 1968 Mustang Coupe back in 1976.
First gen Mustangs don’t really have k-members, the engine mounts are right on the frame and as far as I know there’s no difference between 6 or 8 cylinder cars.
@@noboltsleftbehind so what frame and engine mounts did you use? Just stock for a ‘68? I plan to do this same swap but use a newer 5.0 98-99 so it has gt-40 heads
@@jasonmatvey7308 yes, just stock ‘68 Mustang brackets and mounts for a small block Windsor. FYI, the 96-97 have GT40 heads and the 98+ have GT40P heads.
ok when doing a bronco/f150 there was something that had to be done to the crossmember mount and i dont remember what ill look it up. sent you a message on ig. may help. looks like its a longer trans slightly
