*UPDATE July 2022* - I tried a new batch of MPCstuff sensor sheets (which they sent to me explaining their very first batch was actually a bad batch) and with the new pad sensor sheets the device responds much better! The response curve of the pads does seem a little different though. It takes a little more effort to reach the highest velocity layers, but all in all these newer sensor sheet do work. That said, you probably *just want to clean your pads first* and don't replace the sheet. That might already be more than enough to get you going again as this video proves... ==== *UPDATE June 2022* - Lots of great advice / suggestions in the comments here about how to take this thing apart even more carefully. I copy and pasted the most important ones in this pinned comment! From Scott H: To add another recommendation being familiar with this sort of thing. When replacing the screws to avoid creating cross threaded plastic place the screw in the hole and turn your screwdriver backwards and you will feel the screw rise them fall into the the hole. This aligns the threads so you are not cutting new threads when screwing down the screws. One thing we use to remove oxidation from the gold of the circuit board is an eraser from an old fashion pencil. While this isn't the best from an ESD standpoint it can work to remove the oxidation. From Martijn Schiedon: I like how you carefully approach this teardown. Be aware of static electricity however, especially near vacuum cleaners and when rubbing synthetic fabrics on a circuit board. Now, the summer time is less problematic than the dry winter months, but best to ground yourself through a wristband to be sure you don't destroy any ESD-sensitive components.
All MPC pads require a lot of force, so it kind of makes sense that their MK3 replacement sensors would be somewhat similar to MPC sensors if they use the same technology to make them.
@@epicon6 they do make them specifically for the maschine so my guess is they can make them come pretty close. and they do actually. Thefirst batch was bad but the newer ones were pretty good!
@@TheQuestforGroove That's great news and the price of the MPC Stuff replacements is on point too. I bought mine 5 years ago, the fist month it came out and the center of my 7 pad returns slightly slowly, so if i clean it i most likely don't even need a replacement because i'm moving to Japan in 2 years and i'm buying Maschine+ then and using my current as a secondary.
I signed up for the premium QFG content and vouch that it's legit. Great website design and content that really helped me start drumming on the pads and understand rhytm in general. Thanks QFG! 😊
Thanks for vouching for me Hristo! More cool stuff is actually in development (like sheet music notation for each lesson and a course on how to read sheet music for drums)
I like how you carefully approach this teardown. Be aware of static electricity however, especially near vacuum cleaners and when rubbing synthetic fabrics on a circuit board. Now, the summer time is less problematic than the dry winter months, but best to ground yourself through a wristband to be sure you don't destroy any ESD-sensitive components. P.S. Noticed at 16:25 that you pinched the long flat white FFC cable between the black plastic bracket and the PCB. At 4:30 you can see how it's routed originally.
Hey thanks for this advice! I was doing all that stuff and thinking to myself "I think I'm forgetting a safety precaution" and yes... that was it. Static electricity... will keep that in mind next time. I also noticed my mistake with the FFc cable when montaging the video :-) Everything still seems to work well though, it's not screwed in very tightly so I think I'm going to take te risk and leave it as is for now.
@@TheQuestforGroove You're welcome of course! I suspect the bracket is there to reinforce the PCB so it can take the stresses of the pads being hit. I can spot a fairly large IC under one of the plastic struts/beams, so there should be some room for the cable as well. If there was no gap between the bracket and the PCB at all, the transverse movements could potentially grind down the cable eventually, but that doesn't seem the case, so I think you're pretty safe indeed. By the way, my compliments for your pronunciation and delivery 👍
To add another recommendation being familiar with this sort of thing. When replacing the screws to avoid creating cross threaded plastic place the screw in the hole and turn your screwdriver backwards and you will feel the screw rise them fall into the the hole. This aligns the threads so you are not cutting new threads when screwing down the screws. One thing we use to remove oxidation from the gold of the circuit board is an eraser from an old fashion pencil. While this isn't the best from an ESD standpoint it can work to remove the oxidation.
I've worked in semiconductor clean-rooms (a lot) as an engineer. First things, find as clean and dust free area as you have to work in. Vacuum the area the day before working working and dust. Allow the dust to settle 🙂 Then get some new nitrile gloves, an anti-static wristband and 5Mohm antistaticplug (RS or similar) if possible check the resistor is correct value and connected when plugged in. Search online for anti-static precautions. get a hairnet for food prep or shower hat at a push as most skin will fall from uncovered hair. cover arms with long sleeved top (freshly washed cotton if possible) and wear the gloves. If you have access to anti-static filtered fan, with functioning hepa filter, place not too close to work area, and angle that across the area to be worked on. Ensure there is good ventilation, If you are doing such work regularly, get a decent sized anti-static mat to work on. This will connect to dissipative plug and your anti-static wristband. Wipe down the area with screen clean IPA wipes. Take all necessary precautions wrt working with solvents etc. Wipe down the unit case and pads away from the working setup with the screen wipes. Transfer the unit to the working area. Use a photography puffer (Rocket type) to blow in between all the pads. If possible I'd try and support the unit at ends on rubber or closed cell foam with a clearing of a few inches so you can see the buttons are aligned when you reassemble. Always wear the gloves and anti-static gear as you disassemble. Never touch the pad contact sheet or the film leads with uncovered fingers as the grease from skin will contaminate the contacts. If you have already done this, clean contaminated contacts with IPA wipes and blow dry with the rocket puffer. Blow all items as you reassemble them. Be careful of metal particles coming from the screwdriver/screws falling into circuitry. Often worth video recording your disasembly work in case you make an error or need to see how you disassembled. Obviously take all health and safety precautions, watch some videos on anti-static precautions relating to computer repair and don't attempt if you haven't got decent hand skills (bad shakes is a no no). all above at own risk, do your own research regarding safe working conditions, no liability accepted etc.
regarding above comment saying about removing oxidation from gold...Gold doesn't oxidise, but can get surface contamination from ungloved fingers. use the IPA wipe, I'd advise against abrasion with erasor! Cleanroom wipes are great and can be purchased online for reasonable £ if you search around.
I would loathe taking apart my device 3 times, especially with the pins! but thanks for doing it and testing the old sheet. maybe it will save someone a bunch of time and money in the future.
mpcstuff reached out and actualy confirmed that their first batch of sensor sheets were bad. They now shipped me two new ones which will arrive in a couple of days... I'm gonna take the thing apart one more time I guess :-)
Oh, dang. That's upsetting, I would love to see if MPC-Stuff responds. Honestly though it's really annoying that the drum machine and synth/controller world are treated like disposable electronics instead of instruments that expect to last your musical journey. If your guitar string breaks you can buy new strings. You should be able to replace your pads and sensor sheets.
Thank you so much for this detailed video. You can see everything step by step. I am getting ready to clean my mk3 after a small spill over a few pads and I have been really nervous to open it up. Your video allows me to know exactly what to expect when taking it apart and putting it back together. Still not sure what I'll find spillwise but this helps a lot. Also, I'm very interested in improving my finger drumming so I'm heading over to "The Quest For Groove" right now. Subscribed.
You have to try a MIDI fighter with Sanwa buttons, indestructible machine - perfect for finger drumming. It's not velocity sensitive but very fun to use.
Thankyou so mu h for this i split cider in my maschine i followed this video and cleaned as sugested and now it works better than before thankyou very much
I carefully roughened the sensor sheet with a polishing fleece and the sensitivity of the pads is now as good as new. I have cleaned it several times before but it was always somehow not perfect.
I will definitely try this trick out. Interestingly enough it is the exact same pad that causes me problem on my NK3 micro, and it hasn't been used very much. It was probably produced in 2019 or 2020 so maybe same batch as yours.
You could also just have a "bad" specimen straight from the factory. It does happen. With controllers from any brand. It seems to be less with NI controllers, but I've not heard of a controller that never has bad ones in a batch.
@@MadsGranumMusic I couldn't say. I've never been in the position where I had a bad unit from the factory which I could then repair with a new sheet... So this is unknown territory for me as well.
I'm trying to reassemble my Mikro mk3. This a night-mare. I don't succeed at all. If i knew maybe i should have kept it with a single dead pad only because it can't use it anymore now. Thank you anyway for your deep explanation
Ah that sucks... It is possible for sure, but in my experience the most important part (especially the first time) is to monitor every step when you take it apart. So you need to know where every screw goes, how tight they were screwed in what cables unplugged from the circuit board and how they were attached etc. Once you did a couple of these controllers it becomes easier because they are actually a lot alike. Sorry to hear it did not work for you.
@@TheQuestforGroove Thanks, trying again this next night and maybe i'll have better luck. The Mikro has 2 two pins hubs that needs to align perfectly. It double the difficulty to reassemble. It seems There is only 1 on Maschine and it make a bunch of a difference.
I finally got it!! It as a hassle but worth it at the end of the day. The pads responds way better after several years of finger drumming. To those who open a mikro mk3 : it is possible to reassemble but be also carefull with the rubber placed at the end of the usb port, it can prevent by itself the misalignement of the pins. Don't be afraid to maintain the whole card circuit slide as close as possible to this little piece of rubber and it should be good.
Hi and thanks for your great videos. Do you know if such an maintenance operation with replacement sensors is possible on the Novation Launchpad Pro Mk3 ? Thank you. Franck.
Im just not sure if my pad sensor sheet is too rough (i see some gold/copper stamped into it i cant get rid of) to be cleaned. Every time i clean it, theres always a few sections that are worn more than the rest so i decided to cut a corner off and switch the sheet in the other direction so it would fit the holes. The situation improves each time i clean it but they begin to wear quickly, requiring another cleaning and each time less effective than the first. Should I just replace the sheet? I'd rather not send it in for the 200 bucks they want if i just need a sheet. I dont think its the sensors themselves because when i turned the sheet around they sensitivity felt brand new on my most-unused pads.
Yeah at some point you will need a new sheet. And even then, it won't be like an actual "new" Maschine. If I was not recording videos I would have probably switched to the mikro and just pay for a new one every couple of years tbh.
@@TheQuestforGroove NI did offer me a 200 dollar out of warranty fee to send it in. I think they mentioned sending back a refurb or repairing it if it’s not bad. Maybe I’ll try that instead of the MPCSTUFF sheets. Although the sheet may be able to get me by until I can afford that.
Your problem: It's not about electrical contact, it's about distance. A couple of micrometers make a difference. So the replacement foils eventually are a little thinner. Your solution: Take a sticker with the right size for a pad (office label etc.), cut a hole at the middle (belt punch), and stick it on top of the contact foil (position of the weak pad). This will reduce the distance. Iterate until satisfaction.
Thanks! With the Akai mpd218 I actually did something like this and it did seem to work. I don't think it's needed at the moment for the maschine, which is nice. There is a balancing act I found (with the akai) where sometimes there are double triggers and stuff like that.
@@TheQuestforGroove Because you have new contact foils now, it won't hurt to play with distance on one of those. I fixed the sensitivity of my MPD218 pads by the described method. As you know, I'm now working on the double trigger fix (final electronic part was in the mail). You mentioned that Maschine eventually uses similar electronics to eliminate double triggers. So maybe you don't have to fear double triggers on Maschine when reducing pad distance.
@@towerrunner4675 I did similar using very thin Silicone sheet. worked brilliantly and unit is much more sensitive. Silicone sheet is also dust free and likely the same material as the original pads.
To Robert or anyone else who has opened the Mikro(!) MK3: does the lower part look the same as with the non-Mikro, also in terms of circuit board cable connections, screw placement etc? I'm hesitant of opening it up so I want to know upfront what I can expect.
I have not opened a mikro, but MPCstuff indicates on their website that the pad sensor sheet will not fit without modifications. I suspect this has to do with where the holes are since the size of the pads is the same, but it does mean the insides are not 1:1 the same.
Hi, i've sent mine to NI for potis replacement, and they also tell me after test : Pad 1 incorrect data > UI PCB + contact foil must be replaced Do you think a good clean could be an issue ? What they propose is expensive.... Thanks for your help
I think the contact foil is indeed that sheet, but I'm not 100% sure. I paid them in the past to replace it and that worked but I would try cleaning first. If you remove the ink residue from the contact sensors (NOT from the sheet) it will sometimes already sense things better.
I’m from vietnam : Tôi cũng gặp trường hợp như bạn. Tôi đã thử vệ sinh mạch bằng cồn y tế . Bôi than vào cái bảng màu đen đó bằng bút chì kẻ lông mày. Nó có tác dụng một thời gian. Nhưng một thời gian lại mất hiệu quả. Tôi lặp lại các bước trên. Lúc được lúc không. I hope y can understand.
Hi Robert, I am new to your channel and finger drumming. I'm interested in purchasing NI Maschine , but just wondering which would be best in my purchase, the Mk3 or. the Mikro. I am looking just lay down tracks in REAPER using EZ Drummer. it seems the MK3 has more bells and whistles. Would love to hear your thoughts and comments. Thank you for your time and look forward to watching your videos. Best!!!
Hey Matty, just for drumming and getting yourself some nice, sensitive pads, the Mikro mk3 is the best buy. The bigger mk3 is made to be used for beatmaking together with Maschine software and I personlly dont use any of the extra features, besides the screens that show which pads I hit when I film myself. The mikro is clearly the best value for money option here. Pads are the same size as the big one. The one thing to keep in mind is to always make sure you can return your unit. There is a small chance the pads do not respond as well as they should. This is completely ballpark, but I think one out of twenty devices will not be that great, so you want to be able to return the unit and get another one.
@@TheQuestforGroove THANK YOU for the Advice. I thought the Mikro would be the best bet. Just needed to hear it from someone else. I do have one quick question to add, I’ve seen in some of your videos your set up with the pads. My question is what do you do when you have a drum set up that has more toms to be added to the pad set up. Thanks again
@@MattyB3 I'm always fine with 3 toms. I do swap the toms depending on the song I play, but I use a total of 3 per song. If 3 really is not enough you can swap out another pad like the cymbals, or the ride, or the sidesticks for an extra tom. Or ofcourse... get an 8x8 controller 🙂
What if I wanted to replace the lcd on the mk3. I see some listed on ebay. I just don't know how to install it. Will I need to solder? How will I get the acrylic off without breaking everything 😕
I don't know to be honest... That part of the Maschine I have not touched since it could be left in place to repair the pads. Based on what I saw taking the rest of the device apart, my guess would be no soldering and just connecting the display cables to the correct part on the circuit board. But I'm not sure...
You usually just set the sensitivity slider in controller editor to make it less sensitive. Some units will keep doing this, which would mean they're crappy units but most of them will not have that many or even no double note triggers if the sensitivity is set correctly.
