Try the Teflon tape and water trick. It works on snowmobile clutches. Put the engine on its side . Pour a little water down in the crank bolt hole. Now take the factory clutch bolt and wrap it in Teflon tape. Drive it in the crank and the water pressure will pop it off. Sounds crazy but I've done it. Good luck Joe
Threads are 9/16x18. Buy you a bolt and a piece of 1/2" round stock. Cut a 3" piece of the round stock and put it in the hole and thread the bolt in behind it. She'll fall off in your lap.
There's a set of threads actually in the clutch itself. The 9/16 bolt threads into them and the piece of round stock goes against the crankshaft so you don't bugger up the threads in it when you pull it off.
Ok Joe,if u can ,screw in a bolt that fits as far as it will go,then use a slide hammer to shock it off, maybe you'll have to weld an adapter on the ene of the bolt 1st..good luck..Ian UK.
Engine block makes a great boat anchor. Congrats on the press, you also need a lift. Don't worry, you are still batting well over 90% with your purchases. Extra Vinneytime
Stand the engine on its side and put a little water in the clutch where the bolt goes. Wrap a little Teflon tape on the bolt and run it in. It should pop the clutch off. If the factory bolt doesn’t work run to the hardware store and get one that is the correct thread. I use that method on my sleds all the time
Just finished a full rebuild on a rotax 650. I think the hardest part was trying to get the piston rings in the cylinder without a ring compressor. Really like the design of these things. And they do make good power.
Joe Jim up here in Alaska with snow machine clutches we put thread tape around original clutch bot threads, put the engine on its side fill the crank hole with water and thread in the clutch bolt. You will need to use an impact most likely but I’ve pulled many with this method. Most of them pop right off. Just thought it might help, good luck and keep up the great videos.
You can't use the clutch bolt because it threads into the crank not the clutch, you have to use a bolt that only threads into the cluch itself and will compress the water against the crank to pop it off.
The easiest way to get a bolt right is to the the original down to the hardware store and fit it with a nut. That way you know the exact size and threading. Keep up the fun!
For lifting engines out, esp on SxSs, you either need an engine hoist, a set of come-alongs, or your best bet would be to fabricate a lift attachment for the front of your skid steer, similar to an attachment used for lifting objects with a telehandler that has a hook on the end of it. That way you can pull it out and maneuver it into your garage, or wherever you plan to rebuild it. As others have suggested, you should also pick up a kit made for pressing bearings and seals, that will help alot with the new press. I noticed you don't use any impact sockets either, I would also suggest this, having personally had multiple regular chrome sockets explode or crack while using with an impact, which they're not designed for.
Cheap atv's are ok IF you replace and nylock all the bolts nuts etc and weld in extra gussets on the frame, replace carby too and get some better rings, still under 5k for a decent ride.
Just remember to leave that socket on there still to when using that plate and all of the rest of the items I told you about to Joe. It's bA suggestion to on it. I've always done them that way anyways over and throughout the years myself.
Weld A piece of metal tubing as A sleeve to fit over the end of that socket tool already on to A circle plate with welded tube sleeve to for your DIY clutch release removal tool accessories and parts.
Dude, take a smaller bolt or threaded rod, cut it and stick it in the hole then thread the original bolt into the hole after it, it will pull the clutch off...
Hydraulic it out ! clutch on its side small amount of oil in the hole maybe 5-10 ml add more if needed. Add PTFE to the thread not much and tighten up some heat to the back area can help and lots of loub before to help the release in the back Good luck Little john from the UK
Stuff bread down the threads and use a punch to keep pounding it in the more bread you put in the better it will pop it off with pressure it’s an old truck but works great
9/16x8 bolt about 2/12 inches long fill the hole with water. Wrap the threads on the bolt with Teflon. Don’t be shy with the Teflon. Hydraulic pressure from tightening the bolt should pop it right off. Filling Transmission fluid work too if it’s being stubborn just makes a bigger mess.
The threads you are working with are on the crank. In your case doesn’t matter if they are wrecked because you are replacing it. The clutch has it own threads larger that the puller threads into
I’m sure it’s fixed by now but there probably is two sets of threads in side . 1 in the crank and a bigger in the clutch . Measure depth of both fill the crank thread with a rod that extends to the second set of threads you’ll need a bolt to fit the clutch threads the smaller rod inside bottoms out but extends to the clutch threads the clutch threads bolt will push on the rod while pulling the clutch out . I used a 18mm bolt to push a clutch off a 650 Kawasaki I put a deep well socket in to make up space for the 18mm bolt to push on . Yes I got dumb typing that .
As fun as it is to work on bikes and quads, these side by sides are a nightmare for major repairs. Done a lot of engine repairs and replacements. Thank god for powered winch hoist over head, makes life easier... good luck bud, you really need a bit more muscle for that monster. Did a swap on an 800 Razor, took 2 hours pulled bolts, hoisted up motor removed it put usrd good motor in. Been almost a year now, still running the Mint 400 every running. I got the tool, the polaris one fits that...
Had this problem on a couple of these rigs I’ve rebuilt. Get a new oem can am puller, grease the threads and pump the inside of the crank snout full of grease. Torque your puller tight and pop the clutch sheave with a dead blow hammer, if it still doesn’t pop loose try heating lightly with a torch and repeat the process. Best of luck to ya.
use the grease method! pack the hole with grease an teflon tape the clutch bolt. tighten bolt.. it uses the pressure from the grease to pop the inner clutch off, works so much better than the water method
Use the water trick. Put motor on the side so clutch is facing up. Pour water in center of clutch, filling up threads. Wrap stock clutch bolt with a ridiculous amount of thread tape. Screw it in. Sounds crazy but it works. Do this with ski-doos all the time.
I know you’ve already probably fix this problem, but what I would do is start with the first puller that you strip the threads on. Grind the threads off until you can slide it all the way in and it bottoms out without threading it. Now you can use a three draw color with the center pressing against it, might need to put some plate behind the back of the clutch to pull against but I think it would work.
Had, yes, had a 2014 Odes,...every time I took it out, something went wrong, either on the trail, or soon after I got home. Had it for 4 yrs, sold it for half of what I paid for it. I will never buy a China knockoff, ever again. Hope you have better luck than I did..
I feel your pain brother. I still have a TGB that still sits in the back yard being that no parts are available to include the flywheel puller. I can't even see why it failed. A few years back it ended up seeing all kinds of rust, so I am guessing that the coolant system was a major player.
The trick is finding out the thread pitch and diameter the puller needs to have - I hope the gentleman suggesting 9/16" -18 is correct. There are fine and coarse pitch threads for SAE bolts, and there are sometimes 3 possible thread pitches for metric bolts. It is also possible for the threads to be nonstandard for the bolt size - created on a lathe for a specific application, but I hope that's not the case. The puller bolt needs to be somewhat larger than the bolt that held the clutch on in order to engage the clutch. Protect the shaft's internal threads when using the threads in the clutch to pull it. I know you're gonna get this, Joe!
The comment where the guy suggested using water down in the hole and Teflon tape on the original clutch bolt forget that and pack it with petroleum jelly and you should not even need Teflon tape screw the bolt in by hand and take it back out and try to get a little bit more jelly in the hole and start your bolt back in and hit it with your impact.
OK this is gunna sound scary. get a big 3 jaw puller. weld an extension on the push bolt long enough to touch the crank.Grind the push bolt down as to not interface with any threads. hook up the three jaws on that soft aluminum clutch and put just enough pressure on it with the puller and wack the center bolt with a hammer and it should pop right off. Add a little heat if you have to. I did this with a stubborn clutch myself.Heat and quench with oil or lube. Hope it works out.
I SAW YOU MRUN TO GET A RAZOR KNIFE TO OPEN THE PRESS BOX, IFM YOU LOOK TO SEE WHERE THE PLASTIC STRAPS END AND BEGIN YOU CAN EASILY PULL THOSE APART WITHOUT NEEDING A RAZOR KNIFE... LOVE YOUR VIDS
Back in the day when I raced snowmobiles with similar clutches, we removed a stuck clutch by turning the engine on its side, with the clutch end facing up. We filled the bolt hole almost to the top with oil. We then screwed a bolt into the crank and that would hydraulic the stuck clutch off the crank…..
If your clutch threads are damaged, which i dont see how they couldnt be by now.. then youre going to have to get some new threads in there so the bolt/puller can properly grab the clutch. Get another puller/bolt with bigger threads than what the clutch is and drill and tap the clutch to match.. This is where you wish you had a nice big drill press to set the engine into and drill a straight bore to thread out...
I've been working on cars, trucks, motos, and ATVs over 15 years only recently took on my first side by side project and it was a complete nightmare..never again lol. P.s. A press is almost a must have tool in the shop, make sure to pick up some good bearing, bushing, seal drivers and cups to make jobs a little easier. 🤘
Ya bud, the threads are in the clutch itself like a snowmobile. The puller threads in at the clutch and bottoms out on the stub shaft on crank... it will pop. Unfortunately u aren't getting the right puller bud. :)
I worked in a powersports dealership for 30 years; we had people bring us engines all the time to pull clutch's off. Take it to a odes dealer or even a cam am dealership and have them pull the cluctch.
Hi there 2vintage, sorry I don't know your name. I have just started watching your videos, I must say you are awesome to watch, love the old CR500 video and would love to of ridden that when you finished it. So inspirational. Keep up the cool jobs 👍👍
Well this is what i did the Bolt you Bought use it, and Take your grease gun and Fill the hole then use the Bolt and i used my impact and POP it came off .
Joe great video. Try going to your local machine shop. Take the engine with you. They might be able to get it off. Or they might have ideals how to? Without destroying it. Good luck. 👍
You can fix it Joe, no doubt in my mind, you've got in ya. The real problem i see, its not a popular brand or model so it may not recover all your expenses should you sell it, even running... Happens to me all the time, the Chinese side by sides never fetch the money of top brands, but the Sun L's and Kymcos are comparable. Decent rigs. The pecking order as I've seen it are the :Can-Ams, Polaris, Yamaha, Honda, Kawasaki, then odd balls.
Iff I understand correctly the original bolt threads into the clutch. Can you just put a smaller diameter piece of round stock in first then thread the original bolt in which would bottom out on the round stock pushing the clutch off. Most difficult part would be to determine the correct length for the round stock but maybe one of the other pullers would give you some guidance, Good luck....sure need a solution that avoids spending more money.
I like the lifting ideas below, also look into using your skid steer loader a digging a pit and make an underground, under vehicle work bay maybe use the sides and bottom of a Septic Tank 1000 Gallon Monolithic 5" Wall tank to make it easy French drain in the bottom and safety polls and chains on top.
You should make your own puller. Get a bar the wight hog the clutch, with a threaded hole in the middle. Then two more holes on each end to where you can weld some claws to grab the disk. Then just turn the middle bolt till it comes off.
weld an extension on to the orginal bolt. just do it in such a way you can reclaim the bolt after. Just a thought. nothing to loose, if full replacement is the the other option.
Buy all tread that is thd same size as the bolt that fits. Take to a machine shop and ask to turn threads off it a ways to the correct diameter. Bring back and if its too long trim it off.
If it's all sealed and a lip on the back side pack with grease and used a bolt a bit smaller wrapped with some electric tape to make up difference. Hammer out using hydraulic pressure.
Could you cut a rod to length and put it in the crank and run your OEM threaded crank bolt against it. That is really what the pulley rods that you bought are doing, except they are one piece, It should not matter, if the cut rod bottoms out pass the threads, and the threaded crank bolt catches threads and pushes against the rod and pops the clutch off. You will have to measure the depth pass the internal threads and make sure you catch enough threads with your original crank bolt. Just a thought, I've seen people do this on generator stators.
Joe....why dont you just put a short 3 " long dowel in then insert the bolt it came with......wouldnt that work....tighten the bolt up against the rod then walla
Pump inside where the puller goes full of grease or use Teflon tape one the original bolt and fill with water. Either one is called a hydraulic puller. Hope that helps👍👍
i love how you just start where others stop ... for lots of other youtubes its like "ohh man am i gonna slip the case?" "na dont feel like it" and you litterly start the video with it taken completly apart litterly into its bits xD amazing
There’s a channel called Powermodz where he shows how to get a seized on snowmobile clutch off with a bolt and a paper towel. Sounds crazy but it works
Get your self a tap and die set that rgoes clear up to 3/4 sae and metric im alsost for certain its s 916s is a 13 wont thread all the way but anyways use the die set to size up the factory bolt thn go buy a bolt and some rod thats the original size my prairie 700 i had this same issue with.
If the threads aren't stripped in there I'd think the bolt would work if you make a piece of round stock the perfect length for the bolt to push off of. Or maybe a 3 point puller would grab on the edges and pull it but you'd have to make push tool piece to go down in there to push from. If you can get the hooks to grab I bet it would pull it off.
If the clutch is now junk and all else fails, I would cut it off. I would use a right angle grinder to get the big pieces off down to just the hub remaining. Then use a die grinder or Dremel tool to cut a horizontal slot in the remaining hub down close to the crankshaft. Now put the engine on the floor with a block under the hub and use a hammer and chisel to finish breaking open the slot. You might also invest in a small plasma cutter ($200 - $300) to get the big pieces off instead of a right angle grinder.
I would take round stock and throw it down in the hole that fits in there and you're bolt that is short I would cut the head off of it take one of your other bolt and cut it down and TIG weld it together and it should push it off. I've been manufacturing my own clutch tools for a lot of these cheap chinesium go-karts.
The only success I have had keeping gas from going bad is using it.. LoL, or going to the local air strip and purchasing some low lead 100 octane AV gas. The stuff does not leach through plastic and does not seem to go bad like pump gas. As a plus, when mixed with Maxima 927 it makes a heck of a two stroke fuel. I greatly enjoy your content, thanks.
Arsenal add on list to start doing.,or building DIY parts and tools from scratch. At home with tools and A little bit of know how to is all it really takes. To get the job done effectively and efficiently to on A budget rebuild.,or salvage projects like those ones.
Good buy for your workshop the press, I bet you don't realise how much use you will get out of it with the type of work you do, love the videos and your methodology best wishes from UK
All the way through the jet boat video I am thinking why doesn’t he jack it up. Less than two minutes into this one I see it’s already done. Lol looks like you have a real challenge ahead of you in this video. I would need a camera just to put it back together right. Lol
Oh I also forgot to mention all the gears on the inside for the water pump are plastic. Once you split the cases you are going to laught at the engineering are the lack there of lol
If all else fails, take it to a machine shop. (they’re setup to do this) I’ve been doing stuff like this for over 50 years and it took me at least half of them to learn when to stop damaging, and or completely ruining 32:43 things before I’d give up. Watching your video, I’d say you should have surrendered two weeks ago. Remember. The definition of insanity is: (doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result)
So there's this old trick my dad used to tell me about that you can put Teflon tape on the clutch bolt, and if you put water in there and tighten it down, it should hopefully pop your clutch off just be careful while doing this is clutch Can potentially hit you in the face.
Spend $100 on w deep chest freezer and try the ole water trick... u can use the freezer afterwards as well to get bearings and stuff on and off cases and such...👍🏻
I would be curious to see if the water trick worked and how! The bolt threads into the crank and holds the clutch on. The clutch has a separate thread inside to remove it, so yes proper thread bolt and a dowel would definitely work!
Let me clarify, I understand the "hydraulic pressure" idea. But if the bolt head sits on the outside of the clutch there would be no pressure down in the hole to pop it off, correct?
Joe couldn't you visit a cam am dealer shop and ask their shop people if you could barrow a puller tool if you leave your driver license information or some collateral item for a few minutes or bring the clutch to them to have it pulled by them and you might discover a whole other interest in a dealership near you, just suggestion, I've used shop tools borrowed being broken down on the highway and a friend and I went to a shop and they helped me letting me use some tools and then I just returned them with a thanks of $$ donation for the use of their tools. Just a thought and one might check Harbor Freight could have what you need.
