I made F1 Ground Effect for my RC Car 

I was really surprised to see it bottom in that test case. I also tried to get it to flip like the clr by pitching up, but it never actually would.

@@EngineeringAfterHours The fluffy assistant was helpful too. The goodest of engineers.

If you haven't scrapped the under tray yet, could you try the leaf blower on it without the sealing strips? I'm interested in the the difference between, with it and without it.

@@RandomloserDK I believe I show it with and without in the video. In the event I didn't....without the strips I still get some squat, but not nearly a much. I wish I had a wind tunnel...if I had a bigger shop I would definitely build one.

When they say "massive downforce" I still wasn't expecting that.

Or a so called third element in the suspension (heaff springs) they are the most important suspension set up for aero beside (ride hight and heaff is the dynamic motion of the suspension/ when all wheels do the same relativ movements to the body (up and down))

@@TheLtVoss just like in Formula 1 where they have the Heave Daper

@@didyouknow5648 ohh Heave not Heaff yeah that was what I meant

To be honest. When under load the ride height reduces. Typically components in ground effect are sensitive. At a certain point the ground clearance becomes too low (due to too steep a adverse pressure gradient) resulting in stall, reducing downforce

@@campbell-skills6605 yep that why I mentioned the Heave spring as third suspension element

I was honestly surprised at the results. Definitely can't wait to get a new transmission in.

@@EngineeringAfterHours Cant wait to see the results! gonna definitely be awesome!

It would past a few races. It doesn't tear itself up like my fan cars do.

@@EngineeringAfterHours I would also try too implement heaff springs so that downforce won't cause much suspension traffel (bottom out) and will reduce the wear of the skirts and improve the efficiency of the aero (the ride hight is extremely important for ground effect) also you could try too create vortexes at the side of the car to improve the underground sealing

Thanks!

I love simple and smart solutions like that! I might have gotten carried away trying to hit a very specific underbody geometry...but i suppose I have backups for more testing at least. BTW you've almost convinced me the get a WL 284131...looks like a fun little truck.

Haha thanks and I love the pun and the end.

Thanks! I need to find a way to put it on other cars too!

Thanks! I'm glad the algorithm is finally on my side lol

@@EngineeringAfterHours Mercedes F1 team should hire you.

Thanks!

Thanks for the kind words!

Thanks!

Definitely a great idea

Thanks! Hopefully we can keep growing!

This comment was probably a joke but i really want to know if it works

@@ahmed6472 It won't simulate suspension movement that's for sure. None of all 10 teams's million dollar simulator were able to simulate porpoising let alone a RC car

ahahaha the chap 2j and double fan too btw

Skirts are "silicone seal strip". The undertray could be fully 3D printed but I recommend something semi flexible like nylon or even PETG. PLA will likely crack too easily.

I was definitely happy to see it work! Now for DRS

Slash 2wd lcg. I use the arrma body because it's the best fitting buggy body I've found for the slash. I use the hoons because they are durable and have a decent amount of grip.

And add a third element in the suspension like f1 or that downforce will bottom out the suspension and remove grip from the tires in any dynamic action

The idea that downforce is only used in the corners is a common misconception. The more down force you have the harder you can accelerate until you're power limited. This is why dragsters produce several tons of downforce. I'm actually working on a video to help folks understand this. And ground effect is specifically used because it's minimal drag penalty.

I like that idea as it attempts to do what the 2022 car does...tie the skirt to the wheels. I'll have to think in it to see if it can work, but I'm not sure how the suspension could still flex if I do this.

@@EngineeringAfterHours well if it's a arm suspension or even some form of fierson Mick strut suspension I think you have mentioned you have access to a 3D printer I don't know if any of my thoughts will help because I'm not looking at it but print you something that you can attach to the spindle carrier that won't interfere with the lower a arm once you're able to get on the other side of the a-arm even behind it under the car just make sure it don't get tangled up in the suspension geometry and wherever it's convenient you literally should be able to hang this on short pieces of chain or cable or if you want to get fancy use ball joints a simple hinge may work but if you did it that way your hinge would probably have to sit in slides almost like a spline because as it squashes down in the suspension most suspension geometry the Wheels spread a part ever-so-slightly

And I hope you don't mind me making a second thought I think you mentioned you're trying to do this on a budget and I understand but to be playing around with mechanical downforce or even this idea that we're playing with now with the underwing I think you will save money if you made your gears and transmission case machined out of steel otherwise you're probably going to keep replacing plastic gears with the kind of torque you're going to be sending through them I think you ought to cut to the chase and go with steel I know it's adding weight to the car but with the kind of traction you're going to generate I think you can afford to add a little weight where you're not blowing your transmission up and if it has the internal differential do not leave it out have it machined out of steel and of course go with heavier axles and as far as that motor stalling on the fan car are mechanical downforce car I know you mentioned there's some form of safeties causing it to stall from what I understand I was wondering have you ever seen a refrigerator where the compressor in it is going bad and the compressor doesn't want to start or is dragging when it starts there is a kit you can buy for compressor called a hard to start kit and really all it is is a big capacitor that hits the motor with who knows maybe a thousand volts momentarily just to get the motor turning then it goes back to normal voltage when the car is torquing out of the hole could you do the same thing you're hitting it with a voltage Spike incredibly higher then what the motor is rated for but not long enough to hurt it because if you know anything about racing most races are won or lost at the start but that might stop that car from stumbling but if it works if your drivetrain ain't right with that kind of torque it's definitely going to blow drivetrains

This is on my list...or at least a speed body. Raz Shifrin would have the record if he had good aero.

You're the first! But at a local college...a student did place an "F" in front of the "Art Building"

Definitely something I want to try next time. I can't simulate it...but I suppose I can guess and check.

Do you have fusion 360 or another cad program?

@@EngineeringAfterHours yes I do have 360 after I pay the yearly subscription which I would have to so I can play with the design a bit

No, the rear Tyre compound is softer.

Like the new Gordon Murray car!

Oh it's coming...may be a few weeks...but I got the new motor in for it!

You're absolutely correct. I would love to do load cells on the shocks as well. The problem is that those will also pick up dynamic driving forces from bumps and acceleration, but I can average out.

I bought a 272R input shaft that should beef it up. Good call on knowing exactly what failed...I can tell you have put some power down with these cars lol

@@EngineeringAfterHours yes I have, I'm currently building an 2wd slash with an xmaxx motor and ESC and custom carbon chassis. It will be done soonish

Or he can run a mod1 trans mission 3 gear eliminating the idler gear entirely

@@nolimitrc1 any recommendations? Too late for this one but it would be nice to know some options

@@nolimitrc1 I had no clue that existed, thanks for the info

Thanks for the comment. It's silicone seal strip. I chose the 25mm version on amazon.

The arrma street series are probably too low to the ground to do much more than a flat floor with a good diffuser.

Great channel for sure. I also have a really solid book on aerodynamics from Simon mcbeath that I like to use.

@@EngineeringAfterHours also his later suspension videos ar a great way to maximise the aero effects. I mentioned in a other comment/answer the third element and vortexes for sealing the low pressure under the car basically I just remembered theses videos but forgot too mention that soo would you be so kind to look in too it. it would be great too see these theoretical approaches (ok we know it works look at f1) in real life testing and how effective they are on a smaller scale

Yes. I've got several builds with front wings that are all functional airfoils. They're used more to balance aero

The side skirts actually bottom out before the belly, but its amazing how much downforce it can generate.

I think so....you mean like the t.50 right?

@@EngineeringAfterHours i mean you put two fans and a ground effect floor desing in one car i always wondering what would happen

Probably...I have another build with underbody aero about 4 videos out...ill add that test to the list!

You have to be able to diffuse the airflow. Going wider doesn't help, and going longer kills my front wing which is used for aero balance.

@@EngineeringAfterHours you could bring the floor past the front wheels but not past the front wing and maybe you can reduce drag by managing the out wash from the front wing by angling the front wing end plates out. Another way to further reduce drag would be to put covers over the front wheels and enclose them.

Do you have any sheet metal tools, heat guns..etc?

@@EngineeringAfterHours two hands a metal file and a hack saw, and also the heat gun, 😆 I'm leaning towards my math is wrong when measuring

@mestizo_rc you could technically do all this with a heatgun and plastic sheet stock, it just wouldn't be as precise.

@EngineeringAfterHours thanks for your help I'll try the plastic sheet and see what happens . Would 2-3mm thickness be too much rigidity?

@mestizo_rc I believe I used just under 2mm and that was a good compromise between rigidity and weight.