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Hello I Made This If you don’t have this book it about jigs and fixtures using magnetic strips: Woodworking Joinery by Hand: Innovative Techniques Using Japanese Saws and Jigs Paperback - January 17, 2023 by Toyohisa Sugita (Author) Be Well and thanks for sharing
What wood species are you using in this project? The reddish one looks similar to some tropical wood species found in and near Indonesian islands. The difference I see in appearance might even be down to differences in video versus naked eye. Certain tropical woods can be polished almost like stones and you can't quite appreciate it without seeing the results with the naked eye.
Ah good point! The plywood is cut off the first few times I used this bench hook. Now there’s a very small gap. Even if I cut off a little bit it doesn‘t matter because the plane‘s blade doesn‘t go all the way to the edge. So it will always be at a right angle.
So I have been using my 14" long magnetic saw guide, made out of teak, for 2 days. I was cutting 5cm/ 2" thick wood, that was 12"/ 30cm long. My Japanese saw is only 265cm long, and the usable length is less than that. I found that the saw got chewed up by the teeth quite quickly, as I had to come in from both sides, and it really affected the 90deg cutting ability. It got ugly, which I couldnt afford. Thinking how to adapt it: make a thicker fence like you did, and shave off the chewed off parts with a plane until its straight again until the sacrificial fence is all used up, then start again? Or do you think adding a thin strip of metal on the cutting face of the saw guide will do the trick?
The way I deal with it is trying to hold the saw as straight as possible in the beginning so that only a narrow strip near the bottom of the guide is chewed up by the set of the teeth. This way, you always keep enough un-marred reference surface on the guide. I wouldn’t have es metal because it may damage the saw. I have seen people use strips of plastic but in my opinion that is the same effect as letting a thin strip of wood be worn away. You still have to be careful in keeping the saw parallel.
@@imadethischannel You're right of course, the answer is relatively simple. I guess after a day of picking up and shaping lumber, my delicacy leaves the building and I just want to get things done. I did notice that I could use the saw with just 2 fingers yesterday, and though it cut slower (groan), it still worked. I was thinking of using aluminium which is soft enough to give warning of errant cuts but not damage teeth too much. On the other hand, might as well use a sacrificial fence and use stronger/more magnets for when there is a lot of heavy cutting to do. Cutting small, thin stock like most people do in cities, is easy with the guide. Timber framing is a different kettle of fish for straight cuts with a Japanese saw. It requires skill and careful dedication to be straight and accurate to the mm.
Yes, the drill press was a lucky find. I don’t know if there is a special name. It is hard to find information on them. I think mine was made in the 1930ies by a company called Ixion in Germany.
You know what? I love this. I feel its so doable for me, AND you showed me how crucial it is to have a simple (and possibly double sided) shooting board. I now feel confident in making both. Gracias.
@@imadethischannel Ha! I made 2 bench hooks/ shooting boards this weekend, and I made your magnetic saw guide, just a lot longer (12"). I used the small shooting board today (so useful!), and I'll use the larger ones tomorrow on a big project. Thank you for the inspiration and guide :)
I made a guide of my own recently and cannot get straight cuts with it and I can't figure out why! It's square, straight, flat and I'm using a ryoba as well, yet towards the end of the cut the saw veers off track some. I was testing on a 2x4, do you think thats too thick for a guide to be accurate the whole cut?
Hey, I think in principle the thicker the material the more difficult it is to make a straight cut. Is your inaccuracy systematically always in the same direction? Then it might be a problem with your jig. But you also have to make sure that you are pulling the saw with as little deflection from the line of cut as possible. When you make a deep cut, the cut itself becomes the guide.
@@imadethischannel thanks for replying! You were right, it was the jig, my jig is made differently, I added a backer to it so I could clamp it to my workpiece, think of it like an L shape, but the backer is only 1-1.5" wide, and when I clamped it would very slightly alter the angle of the front by pulling the jig towards the clamp. So to avoid this, I clamp from the side and that maintains the perpendicular angle! I also swapped to a back saw to ensure there was no flex in the saw plate if I add too much pressure
It was made by a company called Ixion in Germany, probably in the 1930s. I made a video about it when I got it: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bLpGtnz4YFU.html
