I have one and sounds amazing but has similar type stiffness. Always wished it would be more open. Might be sending to you soon. Great job on this one.
Why? Spizzichino probably intended it to sound the way it did. They cost a lot these days and since you modified it the value must have gone down. That your customer didn't order one of your own cymbals? I don't mean that you are worse than Spizzichino, but his cymbals today have a great collector's value.
You are right about that. I do these projects because I find them very interesting! The customer wanted it toned down a little bit so that it would fit his playing style and, in my opinion, they can do what they want with their property. I'm always very clear with projects like this that the resale value is greatly affected. In this case, I didn't touch any of the markings so it would be near impossible to identify that it was modified apart from the slight coloration differences from top to bottom.
Yeah both my lathes have very mild amounts of runout, but not enough to cause issues. Most of the time it comes down to how uniform the cymbal I’m working on is (or isn’t).
When I was trying to get into this lathing thing as a personal hobby (not professionally) I was trying to figure out if the cymbal should be supported on the back side when lathing it. I thought I had to come up with different wooden supports of different cymbal profile shapes, I didn't realize you just spun it unsupported. You know what I mean? I thought it had to have like a surface on the side of the lathe motor "push back" toward the person lathing. I guess the carbide tip is so sharp and small that its fine. How many Horse Power is the motor? Like 5 HP? Or how do you know if its good enough? I guess it is a speed vs torque thing but I couldn't find any info on that. Did you do any belt/gear system for RPM control or just just attach the axel directly to the motor?
I like to work with no backing most of the time because it allows me to feel what’s going on with the cymbal as I’m lathing it. I’ve got an attachment that I use to lathe the underside but even with that one I use a bit of a foam backing so that I can still feel how the cymbal responds. HP wise you can easily make a belt driven one and use a 1.5 or 2 HP motor. My backup lathe is a 2 HP that runs at 1750rpm. The belt/pulley system pulls the rpm’s down to 400/450 which is right around where you want it. It’s definitely all about torque in relation to speed but 2 hp gives plenty of torque to work with. My main lathe backing is attached directly to the motor and the motor is connected to a drive that’s converting 3 phase power to 2 phase and allowing me to set my rpm’s. I don’t know too much about the ins and outs of how the drive works. I hired an engineer to help me with that part.
@@bobbyboygaming2157 yeah there’s not alot of info out there about this stuff! I had to learn the hard way and make a bunch mistake in the process. It’s such a great time to learn how to do this craft cause there’s so much more info out there.
Nice work Timothy. Interesting how you can lathe but still keep most of the fundamental pitch there. I assumed it would change a lot. Kept the body but changed the attack just enough. So, do you add your stamp when you modify a cymbal?
I would be great at the end of the videos of you playing exact same pattern you ran from 10secs of how it was into 10 of it finished with no break or talking.
