Today we do metal work, body work, rust repair prime, block sand, and paint the 1974 Roadrunner clone in 2 weeks. will it shine? or will i need to repaint the whole car?!?! Stay tuned Contact me nickmopar71@yahoo.com
Yes that’s right every one’s budget is different, only focus on your budget, competition is not against other people but against you , I like your show. God bless😊
I get it but if it's any consolation, I watch every one of your videos. As a scaredy cat to paint my car you have certainly given me the confidence to attempt it.
It's not hard you can do it use cheap paint in case you need to respray. Be prepared to cut and buff out drips, sand, bugs, and orange peel. Thanks for watching.
I had a couple Satellites like that one and I always liked the way the body was made on em and I always wanted to big block 4speed em but I didn't have em long enough. I'd get em at auctions for cheap and I couldn't turn down the offers for em in the late 80s and early 90s..They had 318s with automatic transmission and I wasn't too fond of brown and a certain medium green and both was the same color of the car inside and out..The only thing I did to em is put fat tires on the rear and 70s on the front with Cragars all the way around em and that improved 70 percent of the looks. I always wanted Roadrunner hoods but like I said I didn't have em very long and they wasn't in really bad shape except for a dent or 2 but I'd always fix everything on em..I always had to have dual exhaust cause both set normal with single exhaust, mixed matched hubcaps and the brown one just had plain rally rim's..I would love to have em both now..I've been noticing a lite blue 1 with white stripes Roadrunner in my area running and driving and a mat black one that's bein built. That's about it for the area I live in
That's a nice car!, I had a '73 Sebring Plus that same blue color I wish I still had it... The paint was so bad and flaky I'd run it through the car wash and it would wash the paint flakes off of it😊
Invest in an air file brother do when your doing work on a quarter panel like you did on passenger side of this road runner, you can cut your filler down with the air file and it’s gonna help you shape a panel so much better and quicker and it will be flat instead of wavy like if you cut it with a DA. For no longer than you’ve been doing this tho, you’ve got great potential and great skills!! You’ll refine those skills as you go buddy!! Keep it up man, but get you an inline air file (harbor freight even has em fairly cheap, less than $50 I think but worth every penny!!)
I disagree that a 73-74 Road Runner or Satellite is not a desirable car. I have be trying for years to get one and would pay ten times what you paid for a basically rust free car that does not need to go on a frame machine. It isn't a beauty like a 72 or 72 Road Runner (my all time favorite car), but it is moderately close. I think I would leave it as it is. Much of the pleasure of the car is the experience behind the wheel and the general sleek shape. Those tiger stripes can be ignored and the runs sanded down hopefully. I did not actually even see the tiger strips. Maybe they look better in sunlight anyway.
I repainted the car check out the next video. I love these cars, but let's be honest they are the least desirable mopar muscle cars out there. I Mean I paid $500 for this one.
Depends on what you are using and what the data sheet says for your specific paint. In my case it was enamel single stage, and a urethane clear coat. Data sheet said to wait between 4-6 hours. I explain this on the next video. I did not read the data sheet.
I GUESS I WILL HAVE TO GET MY 1971 INTERNATIONAL TRAVELALL AMBULANCE RUNNING, THE PREVIOUS OWNER DROVE IT A 150 MILES WITH A LOOSE RADIATOR CAP, "BOILED OUT ALL THE WATER OF THE 396 AND APPARENTLY LOCKED UP THE ENGINE.
Please don't quit making videos. None of the big time RU-vidrs got 100K subscribers overnight, in fact, for most of them, they didn't start making real money on RU-vid until after they hit 100K. Some of those RU-vidrs were even able to quit their full time job and make their channel their full time job. I just found your channel today, and I really enjoyed the hell out of this video, liked and subscribed. Your time will come, but you have to let it. It's like the old saying goes, good things come to those who wait. As an example, RU-vidr DD Speed Shop has 142K subscribers, and still works a full time job. Be patient with it, and raise it like a kid.
Ditto! I just found your channel, as well! Subscribed and set up notifications! I loooove the Plymouth Wagon, Son! Looking forward to following you! DO NOT Quit! 🙂
Well said PaganWizard!!! I just found the channel today and love it and subbed. My high school car was a 74 road Runner and I absolutely love the cars!! I would still have it today but I stored it in moms barn when I joined the Air Force and after 5-6 years I guess she thought I was ever gonna come back for it and sold my Road Runner, my brothers 70 1/2 Camaro SS/RS split front end, 350 4spd, etc, and my other brother had a 69 Bug he had done a ton of custom work to it and it was a bad ass Bug!! Oh well, gotta move on tho. I was hoping to find another Road Runner but haven’t found one that wasn’t completely rusted out tho so I’m still looking!! Love your content, please don’t quit putting videos out tho, you’ve got a ton of potential and your numbers will come around but it does take time. If you do decide to quit, just please don’t do it in the middle of a Road Runner build, please! Anything else is cool, just not the Road Runner!!!
Please keep going.i love the channel! I know we all need to make money but don't become one of the PROFESSIONAL u,tubers who bore everyone with the same content every week ! Keep the faith and keep rodding.. mick the mechanic u.k...
The main thing is you tried. And I'll tell you it takes time to learn to paint. I started painting cars in 1977. I was 18. I made my whole career in paint and body work. I'm retired now,but still work on my own cars. I have a 69 and a 70 Roadrunner. When I started learning the big thing was Acrylic enamel single stage on Ford and Chrysler products and GM cars got laquer. Keep trying and learning all you can! Best of luck to you!
@@somewhatfast I still don't understand. I went to the store paint guy and he listed all my options. I asked for Acrylic Enamel. He said there was no acrylic enamel I could buy. This was in California, so that could limit my choices. From the books I read, acrylic enamel is never used with a base coat plus clear coat system. Are you saying you bought acrylic enamel single stage paint and did a second coat with acrylic enamel single stage CLEAR paint? I though you could never apply a second spay. I mean, it is supposed to get hard when it dries. I don't blame you for waiting less than 6 hours. Would it have even stuck at all if you waited until the surface was fully dry? What product are you using? Oh, is this a specific Mopar shade such as B5 blue? That , b5, is what I want to paint.
Don't be too hard on yourself about the paint! Things happen, live, learn, screw up again! Rinse and repeat! Love the body work! I for one, actually like these cars.
Already can’t wait to see the next video. I know this stuff is tough but I’ve been with you for quite a while now and truly enjoy and I mean it watching your content. Keep with it brother. See you on the next one.
Hey man, nice work on that car. Painting is easy to correct. Just more time that you don’t have. But every job teaches a lesson. I’m painting in similar conditions and have almost decided to clear coat the following day. Let’s that stuff flash off well. Or you can do your drop coat for the metallics the day after, then clear that day as well. The blessing here is that you can wet block the entire car with 600 and then you’ll have the best surface to lay down the final coats.
Thanks bro, I ended up repainted the car single stage blue. Kind of a petty blue but a little darker. I've painted lots of cars but I've never put clear over enamel bummer but lesson learned!
Think you’re doing an awesome job. Just a lot of man hours in body work. Very impressive. You get that at a boy award! Thanks for sharing your work! 💯👍👊
Nick, I hope you don't quit! But if you do, we have all been along for the ride with you as you have ventured into new territory as we watched. Don't try and take on such big projects and try and finish them asap! Take your time as fame will come to you if you work it in your spare time.
I've been making videos on my normal stuff I do for 2 years now. I'm not trying to take on big projects, this is just what I do. Alot of these cars I sell. My plan was to make some money on youtube and be able to keep some damn cars. Maybe I'll post shorter unedited videos here and there. Thanks for watching.
I just started to follow your channel. I fixing up a 78 Chevy G20 van. I love the 72 roadrunner your fixing up. how many days did you spend working on it.
Back in 98 my uncle bought a rust free black 73 Charger. We dropped a 440 in it and hooked a tow strap to it and pulled it out the garage. The brakes didn't work and tow strap came loose. Instead of steering it over into the flat I freaked out and took it backwards over the mountain and tore it all to hell. My uncle was pissed but he could t say anything cause he shouldnt of smoked pot with a teenager 🤣🤣 Man I regret that car gettin tore up. It was showroom solid but junkyard jewel after it met me
I really enjoyed the video personally, quite impressed with your work and knowledge too, PLUS you went thru the trouble of explaining things as you went. I think its a great video which also shows what you can run into. Id say Hang in there and dont stop making videos, Im almost 70 now and really cant do that stuff anymore but it sure brought me back to my younger days, especially being into Mopars!! Thank you for making it, it was probably the best part of this ol mans day! Hope you wont take that away. God Bless!!
I found your vid right when I have started to do repairs and paint to my old 86 K10 pickup. Those areas where the metal is pinched together, bottom of doors, hood front, trunk rear, those are full of rust. Guaranteed. Since you are doing a temp repair, which is what I am doing as well, get some mineral oil, and a spray bottle and spray (stream) into those pinch areas if you can access them. If not, pour into some access ports to get the Mineral Oil in the pinches. You want enough to saturate the entire lower pinch area. This will do 2 things for you. The rust will allow the Mineral oil to seep into the rust, and it will seep pretty far as well as up the panel. Mineral oil will thicken as it dries and keeps the water and air from the corroded rust. One application should last a few years, but, even if you never do it again, doing it once is well worth it and it is not hard to do. Another option is transmission fluid. I can't confirm but I'm told it has some anti rust chemicals in it too. For somewhere that you can access, sort of, you can heat up some vaseline, not too hot, and it will be sticky in and on the rust areas and tends to last a lot longer. I use the vaseline on the electrical connections and bulb sockets that are attacked by weather, mostly the front of the car, tail lights. Another thought... on my truck, the battery ground wires to a bolt on the radiator support panel. The right side headlights take the ground from there. but the right side headlights take the ground from the radiator support panel, through another bolt. Ever wonder why some cars have a dim headlight on one side? I connected those two bolts with a ground wire to carry a hard ground for the circuits. -- you are doing pretty much what I am running into so i'm watching your technique for repairing metal. thanks for the vid.
My 72 Skylark wished it had a paint job like that even lol. I wouldn't repaint it but thats me. I wouldn't own my car if I cared what people thought of it. For the price id say that was a win
I had a 69 sport satellite sedan. it was a beast and my favorite i have owned. I think your paint looks pretty good. your videos are inspirational but i can understand the extra work.
Don’t give up! Many of us like your style. Usually on your third or fourth car some disaster happens that requires a total re-spray. The lowest points in the car hobby have to be engine rebuild failures and wrecked paint jobs. We are craftsmen, we suck it up and soldier on. Experience is the short way of saying “I know 5 ways to NOT do something” and that is only earned the hard way.
You did a good job, and saved an old car, I was lucky years ago, I had a friend who owned a body and finder shop, I managed to fix a few cars I had and paint in my back yard with a plastic tarp building I made my friend gave me pointers on different things with the body work also reading. I was on a budget material can be costly, it wasn't perfect eather but they' all came out well, my friends thought they looked good, had fun doing it, I think you did will. Im sure you can straighten out the areas.
Just found your channel. Fantastic video. Don’t stop .your channel It will grow. I would have ordered a car just like this but had to have a car to work, bought what was on the lot .
I hate to see you go bud I love the videos learned a thing or 2 from watching them such as how to rewire my 49 Chrysler Windsor from 6v to 12v but I understand you gotta make money for the family anyways thanks for being there
always liked these things there only downside was smog equipment( who runs that anyway ) and living in the shadow of there older siblings the charger the cuda and challenger.
I agree these cars are very beautiful and overlooked. Their down fall was the smog, big bumper guards, grill that didn't flow well, and the roadrunner had a stupid ah looking stripe down the side which a roadrunner never had prior. Take all that stuff off and some paint on the headlight bezels (which im going to show next) and they are pretty slick cars.
Hey, you saved a cool car and it looks really, really straight - you are to be commended! It’s a pain that you have to sand and reshoot it, but if you don’t you’ll regret it every time you look at it - but cheer up, it will be even straighter after you block it again! Metallic is hard by itself, and when clear moves it around…. I jammed and did the engine compartment and trunk of my ‘66 Satellite convert in single stage metallic bronze urethane and it proved I should take it to someone to shoot the body. I do enjoy your videos!
New subscriber here today, I totally agree, taking a car you dig, not what someone else digs and restoring it to your liking. I like rolling restorations which is what I call them. Get them driving and restore as you go but don't go crazy and spend way more then its ever going to be worth. That RR is pretty sweet, great body style in my opinion.
You could try turning the pressure down to about 22psi and hold the spray gun back about 10 to 12 inches when doing the final coat of paint then spray the clear in the same fashion good luck 👍
no sorry he is right you had to much air pressure and your gun was to close it was not a paint material problem just keep it up you will get it right thats how you learn by your mistakes just don't give up.
@rickyshouseofcrap8600 The metallic was laid all out just fine. Once i cleared it the metallic sagged. I didn't use vasebcoat clear. I used enamel and clear coat. I had it set around 24 ps data sheet said to allow to dry for 6 hours minumum.
some people just don't want the help good luck i'm not talking out my ass i have cars that are on the front covers of magazines and on the internet and have only won first place at auto rama's.
@rickyshouseofcrap8600 You aren't listening. I used an enamel and cleared it about 20 minutes after spraying. The data sheet said to wait 6 hours. I didn't read that until after. Thanks for trying to help. Also what cars are on the cover of magazines? What's your name?
It's a satellite thats someone put a roadrunner hood on 8 3/4 swat bars center console and buckets. But I still call it a roadrunner since it has all the roadrunner stuff.
71-74 road runners and chargers are my favorite mopars. We’re getting ready to “restore “ a 76 amc hornet for my 12 year old. He’s gonna learn how to do everything and have a wicked awesome car when it is done. Yep it’ll have bondo and fiberglass in it and might be painted with tractor paint but it’s gonna be a bad ass car that nobody else has
I’ve been painting cars a long time just always let everything flash off after it’s dry you can go back and do a control coat or fog coat to hide the blotche spots just give it time to dry
Twenty years of experience talking here... keep it up, you got great skills. Painting a car is hard work & every step matters. With metallics, use a good gun with alot more air pressure. Use the cross-hatch pattern on your last coat to cover any stripes & spots you see. It's the lack of sealer that's making all those weird blotches come through, because paint is very transparent. That's why a sealer is important. So, use a sealer over primer, decent gun with plenty of air pressure, cross-hatch pattern and you'll be happy with the result. You got this, man!
Yes! Roadrunner had a stripe down the side and over the roof. I might do a black hood and a plymouth logo on quarter panel not sure yet. You are right definitely needs something to break up all that blue.
Painting ain't no joke, but you gotta start somewhere, metallic is a bitch for the first time. Still good work 👍. I'd be tempted to shoot it petty blue, Like the wagon...
@@somewhatfast I've done a few motorcycles, black metallic and Clear on the last one, But used the wrong Clear..looked great till some gas got spilt on it lol.
..That was a PROPER one man DIY car resto job and I loved it. True, honest and a lot of hard work. I did the same back in the 80's with a Ford Capri 3.0L E MK 1 V6.Took me 6 months and I can tell you it's a lot of work, so I can really relate to all the hours of hard work you put in. My heart sank when then the paint job failed, but at least you know where you went wrong. The only thing I would add apart from longer flash time is, after full coverage, spray a dust coat so that all those metalics sit down and avoid seperation. Great colour too. Please carry on. Everybody likes watching the truth. BAD CHAD springs to mind. Liked and subbed.
I enjoy the videos, and you learn a lot more from failures than successes. I dig the car, hopefully you can sand off the clear and hit it again with another coat of single stage, good luck
I will tell you a TRICK that works GREAT in you Situation if you paint the Same way Again. What I do with All Acrylic Single Stage paint (Aspecialy Metal Flake) On your final coat when you have A small amount of Paint left. Just Fill the Gun with Reducer and mix it together...This is called a Wet Coat. You can lay it on Heavy and it will make your Metal Flake Blend. together....Make Sure you wait at LEAST an HOUR before puting on a Clear Coat. You can Wait up to 24 hours to put on a Clear coat. Make sure you Retack the car before Clearing it (if you go over one hour)!
I want to know how in the fuck somebody smashes up a lower valance like that that badly. What are doing driving like Dukes of Hazzard I mean Jesus Christ that’s unbelievable like you said not a popular one but still fun to play with because it’s old👍😁
No judgement from me. My first paint job back in the early 80's was a mess to say the least. I hope you keep making videos. if the editing is a problem don't do it, As always I liked and shared. All my very best
Yeah, cause you’ll never find that fucking trim over the wheels in good condition. Specially, the passenger side those pieces will be all banged up 😂😂😂😂
I've been painting cars for 35 years and still make mistakes. Don't beat yourself up about it, the best thing about painting cars is, everything can be fixed. If you screwed it up, you can fix it. You did a great job on the body work in such a short period of time and that color is perfect for the car. Fine metallics are finicky to spray, I always do a crosshatch pattern when spraying the last light coat before clear. My only piece of advice is to wear a mask when sanding. Not wearing one has given me some respiratory issues that could have been avoided. My wife used to tell me I coughed in my sleep. Keep up the good work. I subscribed and I'm looking forward to your next video
That’s OK it’ll look better without that trim piece around the rear quarter window. Bummer about the roofline there Jesus I think fucking got some bad cancer.
You probably have to put out at least one video per week to gain subscribers. release the video on the same day of the week. It helps your algorithim and You Tube suggests your videos to more people. Consistency is the key. It doesn't hurt to be on the other social media apps as well. I love your style of videos. I like the way you edit them, I connect with you. Plus you live in one of the greatest places in the world to find low rust cheap projects to build. I realize as a family man you don't have the time to commit but if you look at it as your hobby maybe it could work. I watch every time you release a video but as you said its too sporadic. You need at least one a week to build subscribers.
All 74' plym roadrunner/satelites get a dent on the quarter where it sticks out over the wheel. Ive had two with the same dent! One of them was concours perfect survivor car other than the dent.
Years ago when i was shooting acrylic enamel , you would have to swirl the paint around in the cup to keep the metalic from separating. That's probably what you are seeing, more or less metalic in the paint. Thanks for the video.
The only part of this you’re doing wrong is using actual bondo. That product sucks. Evercote is a bit more, but sands easier and doesn’t shrink or leave pin holes like bondo brand filler.
I used a Pint of bondo rest of the car I used upol. 2 gallons actually and 2 gallons of 2k primer. Also I used bondo on my 71 dodge dart 14 years ago and it still hasn't cracked and the car has been parked outside in primer
Dude dont give up on your You Tube I love what you did to this car I had a 71 Road Runner 383 pistol grip I miss that car so bad I wish I had it back I love this body style. You have heart and really busted your ass on this build I love the color. I am going to give you and old school paint trick. The problem you are having is call modeling it happens in high metalic paints when you are spraying it. You will get clumps if you will of metalics that model together in patches . When I used to do auto body and paint I had a painter teach me a old school trick for modeling .When you are done and sprayed the last coat on he car and you see modeling leave a little paint in your cup take some reducer and dump in the cup and make it really think like water. Now turn your pressure way up about 45 psi hold the gun about three foot off the surface where the modeling it do not hold it close it has to be off the surface at least three feet make sure your pressure it high. Now hit it and fan the gun over the spot that is modeled the high pressure and the reducer will go int and spread the metalics out you can go beyond the area out it wont hurt the paint just make sure ou dont hold the gun close you can spray a full area with the hot reducer and fan technique . I would mix up some cheap paint on and old panel make it model and practice you will see what I mean pressure up way off the surface and fan the gun I love the car man you busted your ass on this one pat yourself on the back
@@somewhatfast You are welcome and you are welcome for taking the time out of my day to teach you how to take care of the modeling problem when spraying metallic's
@madmanmechanic8847 I used an enamel. The problem was the dry time was actually suppose to be 6 hours before applying. I applied clear 20 minutes after. That caused the metallics to fall. Watch the video the metallics are all perfect, until I clear coated it.
@@somewhatfast When you applied the clear coat it magnified the modeling you cannot cause your base coat to become liquid with just and application of clear the base coat . When you apply clear coat over a dried surface the clear coat will not make the base coat soluble and move your metallic around. Its already dry. I am not nit picking your paint job all I was trying to do is help you on the next paint job. I worked in paint industry for years and even went to tech school . Just trying to help you man. Good luck
@madmanmechanic8847 I didn't use a basecoat, I used a single stage it was already shiny. I'm sorry but you are wrong I explain it and show proof in the next video I always admit when I'm wrong and show my mistakes but that wasn't it. I did a drop coat. It was an acrylic enamel single stage, with a urethane clear. Data sheet said CEAR 4-6 HOURS I only waited like 20 max
Those wheels on there are from a Chrysler Volare or something like that now that I think about it I know a little bit about everything but I don’t know a lot about one thing familiar with cars
Good video brother. You've got such a wide range of general auto body talent. I'm more of an expert with painting, and my welding sucks. I've got a gas welder, and still trying to learn how to fill in holes in metal. I swear to god I can't fill holes without burning bigger holes! Anyhow, I sprayed a 1984 El Camino black with a gold top. The gold my customer wanted was from a 1971 Chevelle that we could only find in single stage paint. That was the LAST time I EVER spray single stage paint. Same problems on my El Camino as what you had here. Single stage sucks! I had to redo the top of the car at least 6 times before I was satisfied. Single stage seems like a great idea until you go to putting it on, where you discover all the horrible problems with it. I learned a good lesson from that job!
I dig what you said about who gives a fk what anyone thinks about the ride you're restoring. If it's a car you like,that's all that matters, straight up. Keep doing what you're doing.
@@somewhatfast I'm working on a 1991 dodge stealth rt and after watching several videos on painting vehicles at home,the videos including yours,gives me the confidence to paint mine myself.
