Its a good video and i'm all for doing projects with our kids i do it all the time but when you are making an instructional video you shouldn't let your kid keep interrupting it that makes the vid less likely to be taken serious and makes people loose their interest and focus on what you're doing. Couldn't finish watching it because of that.
Nice way to install the 48v battery. I bought a battery like this but I had to replace for a 4 12v pack because it didn't fit. I wish I had watched this video earlier
10kW of power and 5kWh of storage. That is quite a lot of capability for a golf cart. A single battery is fine but you can also boost the power by putting two or more 48V batteries in parallel. Still, I think you made a good choice with the battery. There are no golf-cart-specific lithium batteries... its just marketing noise, but you already figured out that the only thing that really matters with respect to the golf cart is the BMS's surge capability. 2 AWG is a good choice for 48V @ 100A nominal and 200A surge. the losses will be very low. Of course, the resistor coil wastes an enormous amount of power (unfortunately), but there isn't a whole lot you can do about that without replacing a lot more motor-related parts. Note that if you have a voltage-based battery state-of-charge indicator, that won't work with LiFePO4. The discharge curve is very flat so you basically have to count amp-hours dispensed. Also, you said LIPO in your description but that's actually LiFePO4 (LFP). And in fact LiFePO4 is exactly what you want here. That battery will last forever.... 3000 cycles @ 80% depth-of-discharge will take it down to 80% of original capacity. You won't notice any degradation for years. Plus, LFP chemistry batteries basically don't fail... the capacity just goes down slowly over many years. The rest of the golf cart is gonna fall apart before the battery does. (The battery's BMS will fail before its cells do).
This is one if not the best comment I see in any youtube chanel. I think a lot of person will not understand how much of this comment will help help everyone in the future. Thx.
The BMS and cells used are going to dictate whether or not this thing works well. The 200A (continuous?) BMS is a good sign but you should really crack that case open and see whats inside. Most cells have a QR code you can scan with a code with an app online to tell you what they are. Some 100Ah cells can support 2C continuous....not many can do 3C continuous and very few can do 5C. The hot shit on the market right now is the 74Ah LEV60F cells since they can support 400A easily and possibly 600A if you match up a good set of low IR cells.
Nice to see you two working on a project together, nice to see a kid eating a golf cart too, likely healthy than what most people are feeding their kids these days! I've been on the hunt for a cart to do this with, you can jump up from a 36V to a 48V without any issues?
Awesome video, when people realize EV’s are the same thing it’s gonna be game on! Love that you have your kid in working with you, kids need more dads in their lives, crazy the comments from random people.
Replace those resistor coils with a PWM motor control... Those resistors just waste precious electrical power, and complicate the electrical system. The high power wires are minimized with a PWM controller, and no contractors/switches needed for the high power wires, other then the safety switch/cutoff contactor. The motor controller just takes a signal from the accelerator petal, using simple wiring. You will get much better motor control, and better battery utilization. Edit: you mentioned towards the end about adding a motor controller 👍👍
Nice upgrade! But add a fuse to that battery. Unless that battery is internally current limited, if something fails/wire chafes through, you could have a very bad day. Wires can become so hot, they glow orange, and incinerate stuff near by. Fiberglass when it gets burning is notoriously flammable. There are relatively low cost terminal fuses ment to put on batteries. These are very simple to install. Optionally, a type T fuse mounted close to the battery, where a damaged wire can't harm anything, and the wire is double insulated (eg wire loom sheathing added). Some industries recommend the fuse be within 7" of the terminal, but common sense engineering principles apply here.
Awesome! I have watched your lithium conversion video and love it. I am about to do the same thing on my 36v club car ds 89 model. Could you share with me what wires are connected to the negative and positive post? Please
Thank you. I just tried to find it and looks like I bought the last one the others are on back order so it won’t pop the link up. But I bought it on Amazon.
Hey, great video man! Thanks! My club car is a little newer so I don't have the springs and all, but I was wondering how you handled reducing 48v down to 12v for lights and such? I'm getting ready to instal mine this weekend.
Eather me my wife or my son drive it every single day and we love it. we love the power the speed and low long the battery lasts. we drive it all around town not just in are yard. everything is still stock except the Relay i put a heavy duty 400amp relay in it.
Wouldn’t this overload the resister? They are designed for 36v this has me interested to see because I really want to upgrade but don’t want to go buy the navitas conversion kit. Trying to go a cheaper route to go faster
Technically yes but i have l been using it every day many times a day since i did the swap and it's been great. the coils don't seam to seem much hotter than on 36v i did upgrade the solenoid to a 400amp and the carts been great.
Did you mount the charger onboard? Im looking at this setup for a DS. Just wondering if the charger works properly as an onboard. The manufacturer has little info on if it is weatherproof and if it is designed to be permanently connected to the battery, even during use.
@tdchotrods9889 that's great. Thanks for responding. I wasn't clear from the manufacturer if that charger is weather proof. Or if it would function properly while.being permanently connected. Thanks for the info.
@@tdchotrods9889 Its a bit tough given the small roof area and the higher battery voltage. I recommend going with a "boost" charge controller in this situation. So: * "PowMR Boost Solar Charge Controller" ($35). * Either 2 x 75W solar panels OR 1 x 200W solar panel. Whichever fits the roof best. 2 x 75W in series ($81ea x 2 = $162). Newpoa mono 75W panel (x2). OR 1 x 200W ... Newpoa 9BB 200W 24V panel ($221). (NOTE: A single 200W panel has to have a VOC and Voperating voltage above 24V to work). -- I think the best bang for the buck will be if you use 2 x 75W panels, but check the dimensions to make sure that you can fit that on the roof. The total cost would be around $200 ($81 ea x 2 for the panels, and $35 for the PowMr boost controller). Plus misc 12 AWG wiring. The PowMR has a fairly tight voltage range to support your battery... the input voltage must be 25V to 48V. 2 x 75W panels fits the bill just about perfectly. Quite a few solar panel combinations won't work here. You have to make sure that the total solar voltage is 25V to 48V (both the open-circuit total voltage, and the operating total voltage must be in that range). There are other options... such as going with 4 x 50W panels to develop a SolarVoltage > BatteryVoltage+5V, and using a standard Buck charge controller like a Victron 100/20. But I think they wind up being more expensive and won't fit the roof well. -Matt
I personally love it with your son, piss on the people who dont like it. Those jack asses dont have to watch it. I have an 82 Yamaha g1 and you answered nearly the questions i had. What's an inexpensive controller update for us? I dont fancy ahit and too much speed.
Somebody doesn't understand how electricity and wire size works, The higher the voltage the smaller the cabling you need, The only reason you would need to upgrade the wire to a larger gauge, would be if you were dropping the voltage. Lower voltage is generate more heat for the same workload, higher voltage is run cooler.
Since he didn't change the motor, it is still designed for 36 volts. Give it 48 volts (and that lithium "48" is actually 52 volts or more) and it will draw more current than it ever did from the 36 volt lead acid battery bank. Give or take 1.33 times the current. So yes, the existing wires and speed regulating resistors are going to get hotter, and it's not a bad idea to put in some heavier wires.
@@yourgoldenretriever Of course - but the watts used by the motor will increase as the square of the current (roughly - motors aren't resistors). So the current drawn by the motor will increase when the battery voltage is increased. IF he had changed to a 48 volt motor of the same wattage as his 36 volt motor the current would indeed be lower. But he didn't change the motor, so the current goes up.
Can you tell me how you wired the down converter? having issues with that part of the install. ive got a 48v club car ds with headlights and taillights like yours. so wondering how you wired those based on new solenoid etc.
