People shot with DSLRs for many years before they had log. Yes it may create more of a baked in look but if that look works for someone than that’s perfectly fine. If one really wants more dynamic range they can shoot HDR PQ on the R10 which is also 10bit 4:2:2. Yes it’s HDR but NLEs like FCP make it super easy to convert from HDR to SDR and allow more flexibility in how that exposure extra range to translated to SDR. With a little bit of effort the HDR PQ can kind of be used as a log format. That’s kind of what HDR PQ is. Is a log curve that’s an industry standard so TVs can display it properly. Canon also has a nice application to create custom picture profiles for those that want a more specific look straight out of the camera. I highly suggest more people explore shooting with the HDR PQ mode. Services like RU-vid will automatically convert HDR PQ to SDR so if conversion is a concern well it doesn’t really need to be. Non log is still a very solid way to shoot video however. Especially if one will not be doing a ton of color work on the video. Log is in some ways over rated, especially if one doesn’t know how to properly use it the best way. It creates a ton of extra effort that may not even be necessary if one just wants good looking realistic colors. Canon is known for amazing out of the box colors. If higher dynamic range is a desire than HDR PQ is there to do just that. I have a Canon R6 and only shoot HDR PQ now. I can get up to 700 nits HDR straight out of the camera which is really good. Clog3 could push that a bit more but I find 700 nits is a good value to aim for right now given that most OLED barely hit that right now with on;y 25% coverage. 50% coverage quickly drops to around 300 nits. Most LED TV owners are also in the 500-800 nit range except for a handful of TVs. HDR is far from the theoretical limit right now. The other advantage of HDR PQ is it’s very clean vs clog3 on my R6. Clog3 pushes shadow noise a bit too much and the same ISO with HDR PQ looks considerably cleaner. I find HDR PQ much easier to shoot with in terms of getting extra dynamic range without the need for manual grading or post noise reduction. It may not be enough for everyone but I think many users would find it a great alternative once they learn how to handle the HDR video in a NLE.
Wow, thanks for the tip. I will have to try out the HDR PQ mode. Are there any other settings I should take into consideration if I want as neutral coloring as possible? I love to color grade post shooting.
@@markwiemels I’m using Sirui’s anamorphic line for APS-C sensors. In fact, I bought the R10 because the Sirui lenses I got can’t cover a full frame sensor. (They do, of course, have several full frame options.) They’re pretty cheap, too. The 50mm is around $500.
Hey Mark, I plan to buy the Sony ZV-E10 this winter after watching your videos! Right now I'm shooting film with the Canon EOS Rebel G, and I'm wondering if the 7Artisan 35mm lens will work for both the Rebel G and the ZV-E10?? Thanks!
THANK YOU MUCH!!! I don’t know why a lot of people are underestimating this camera! I used even the canon rp and still produced sharp images. From my experience as long as you have nice glass, it doesn’t matter what kinda camera u have y’kno to a certain extent lol but the R10 has not failed me. I’ve shot 2 University Basketball games with the R10!! 95% of my shots were usable. No I wasn’t just shooting at everything, I would wait a millisecond just before the action of what I wanted to capture lol but all I’m all for what I need…it’s perfect for me!!
Hello Master: Please help and give me some advice, The camera I am currently using is Canon EOS R10, The kit lens used with it is (RF-S18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM) My main subject matter is toy photography. The secondary shooting content is street photography or portrait photos. Now I want to buy new lenses, after watching your video, Want to compare between Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM and RF85mm F2 Macro IS STM After making a choice, I would like to ask you to give me some advice on which lens is more suitable for me? Thank you.🙏
It'd be interesting to see how this compares to the RF 50/1.8. Similar price.. but with autofocus... which I require. A heavy lens plus MF takes the fun out of shooting for me. I love the R10, more than I expected. I had an R8 and thought it would be a downgrade; but I ended up liking shooting with it more. (Small, light and easy was my goal) I got the same kit lens but disagree that it's worth $100 extra. It is easily bested by any other lens. The 18-150 is sharper for me. It's still very small and covers a 24-240mm FF equiv. range. It's better in every situation. I have a 16mm/2.8 RF that works great on it too.. and I planned on getting either a 35 or 50 to do portraits. Probably 50, since it's less than half the price and half the size... and I like tighter shots anyway. I would wager the results would also be remarkable comparing the 18-45 to the RF 50/1.8. If I were to suggest a camera/lens combo, it would be the R10 with an RF prime of the person's first choice of photography... either the 16, 35, or 50.
I am a Gamer and in our world, price for performance counts way more than overpaying for a better device that is not even worth the money. I would rather spend that extra amount on good glass. I went with the R10. For the money, it is the best price for performance camera in the R range in my opinion. Because the prices of the majority of the R-range cameras, especially the R3 and R5, jesus, they are not worth the money they are priced at. I brought the R10 instead of the R7 and did not buy the lens kit. Instead I used the extra money to get a 35 MM,1.8, IS , STM, RF MACRO lense by paying an extra £200.00. I want that shallow depth of field. I would like my subjects up close, most of the time. I don't shoot landscapes nor do I like wildlife photography because I personally think that is boring. I shoot people, and I do occasionally shoot weddings. I am happy to move over to APS -C sensors for street photogrphy because it is definitely for me. Don't get me wrong, I love the full frame too! Specs count just as much as limitations but the shooter behind the sensor counts a lot more in my opinion. Most of the R-range cameras are good. In this day and age, there is no right or wrong but the shooter behind the sensor has become more important than the devices themselves these days. It has become a great time to be a photographer.
Great video. I'm still confused a bit. The only 7artisan RF mount 50mm T2.0 lens is a full frame. There is a 50mm T1.05 RF mount APS-C frame Lens. Shouldn't we be using APS-C with R7 or you are not using all of the lens when using a Full Frame lens on a APS-C camera?
If the lens is marketed as a full frame lens it just means that it will cover sensors up to full frame If the lens is marketed as a aps-c lens it will only cover sensors up to aps-c Which means that you will get large vignetting when using a full frame sensor camera To get the most out of your lens you should use a camera with the largest possible sensor it supports Older m42 or even some modern lenses may actually cover larger sensors than full frame - fyi
Nice! I just got an r10, and I’ve picked up a TTartisans 17mm F1.4. Although, it completely disabled any electronic image stabilization. Did you stabilize any of this footage in post? It looks way less wobbly than what I’m seeing out of my R10.
Please, I have a question. This lens can I use in another camera with a different mount? For example, Panasonic cameras. And to use this cinema lens on the Canon R10, did you need to use an adapter?
Hello, to use this cinema lens on this camera, do I need an adapter? And this camera only has digital stabilization, and the cinema lens also doesn't have stabilization, and filming without a tripod will make the image very blurry?
Thank you for the video :-). Would you say that the Cinema lens is sharper and with more cinematic look also when you compare it against non kit canon RF lenses? I have some L lenses but I never had a cinematic lens. Would you think that a cinema lens would bring a benefit over my existing lenses? My lenses are RF 14-35 f4, RF 24-70 f2.8, RF 70-200 f2.8, then the non L RF 24mm f1.8, RF 35mm f1.8 and the EF 500mm f4 L.
Hard to say, if you are shooting on an APS-C camera, like the R10, I would look at this lens - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-chaO2gB-gm4.html
Hi, I m new in filming and I just purchased the 7artisans 35mm 1.05. The big problem is my camera doesn't start filming or shooting anything. Can you tell me please how should I proceed? I believe that your work will look more complete after. Thank you!
You know my first love was cricket, but now i love my camera gears more than almost everything. I'm glad being an American your daughter loves cricket. bdw I'm from South Asia Mr. Wiemels.
Hi thanks for the video. I bought this lens for the canon R10 but the image is really tight, i have to stand about 40 feet back to get to be able to fit a full car into the shot. I am a beginner, is this just the trade off for not having a full frame camera or an i doing something wrong? Thanks
That's just the field of view of 50mm, on a crop camera. If you want something wider, I would get this lens - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qSSOTIx3Q78.html
do you have to change setting in order to use third party cine lens? i have canon r10 and bought meike 35mm F0.95 and it fit in the mount but couldnt record or even snap a photo.
Thanks this video was helpful…. What do you think about buying the 24 105 kit lens for full frame instead, buying that used is around 150 dollars instead of the R10 kit lens. Appreciate the help
I have not had my hands on the 24-105, but I believe it is a better lens, only issue is 24mm is not all that wide on a crop camera. Could be value it having both lenses.
Hello, I'm from Brazil, and I really like your videos, and I completely trust your technical and practical analyses of the equipment you analyze. I would like to buy the Canon R10 camera, and I have watched several tutorials about this camera here on RU-vidr saying that this Canon R10 camera is of poor quality; it has a cheap, lightweight plastic body that breaks easily, that the battery is horrible, and that the camera heats up a lot. The worst thing about it is the rolling shutter in 4K and Full HD. Could you please give your opinion about this camera?
Setting in the menus, operate shutter without lens or something similar. Should be able to find the exact setting an location in the menus with a google search.
Heyyy, thanks for the amazing video. Very helpful! Noticed some lovely footage of lovely Melbourne. One query from a fellow local that's looking to take photography a little more seriously and buy my first camera. Would you suggest the Canon EOS R10 Mirrorless Camera with RFS 18-150STM Lens is a good first beginners camera or would you suggest alternatives in the similar price range? Thanks and take care!
Great video. I looked at the lenses but they’re all E Mount. Excuse my novice understanding but is there one of these that’s directly compatible with the R10 or do we need an adapter?
Mark, great video as usual. It was very informative to watch this video because there is not many r10 videos on RU-vid showing it’s cinematic potential. I hate that there is no native glass for canon APS-C besides kit lens. I love canon colors, but also have been contemplating getting Fuji. Mark, in your opinion. Would you choose Canon APS-C or Fuji APS-C camera for video? Thank you Mark.
Such a hard question, I have both Fuji and Canon APS-C. I think the Fuji cameras are better video cameras in general, except for the issues with autofocus, which is a deal breaker for some.
In my opinion this is not a fair comparison. Compare with 50mm 2.8 . Those have image stabilization,low light capability,auto focus and great image quality. So does the price.
I am in the market now and contemplating Sony A7C or Canon R7. Leaning towards A7c because of full frame and impressed with 10 bit and 33 mp. Love the cricket video! Please suggest the winner!
T-stop is more accurate (actual measurement) than F-stop which is a mere calculation or theoretical. You need equipment and time to measure the light which is one reason CL are more expensive.
When I put the Lens on my R10 it says “MF” and won’t let me record but when i change the Lens and put the kit Lens the “MF” goes away and lets me record, why?? Please help
Crop vs full frames changes the field of view, don’t worry about thinking about these conversions, they are only useful for people that have shot full frame most of their life and have focal lengths they prefer already. For most people using this camera, these calculations are irrelevant.
Budget lenses like these are used in video production all the time, including in Hollywood. Obviously not a big budget production. These are especially popular for short films, and passion projects, where the budgets can be extremely low.
Based on the title I thought you are going to use some Master primes or Cooks or something similar. What is hollywood on this lens? T-stops? Manual focus? Very click-baity title
@@krane15 if I’m looking for hollywood cinematic lens and its performance on cheap camera here on youtube and i get to this video, it’s literally false advertising. Its a cheap lens on a cheap camera body, that’s it, that’s the point. Misleading, clickbaity video
@@krane15 so many options but in either case i would never spend my own money on this lens, if you lifestyle filmmaker get sigma 18-35, if you doing shorts and music videos meike primes will be better with full set and "simalr-ish" color consistency for +- same price. its cool to have reviews like this or we would have to buy/rent everything before making a descision.
No you didn’t put Hollywood Cine lens. You put cheap china garbage on this R10, man. No even close pic to freakin Rokinon or other China “glass”, imho.
neither R10 nor R7 gives you any "cinematic" look. no, not even "some sort of". its still shitty compressed mp4 stuff from a consumer cheapo camera with photo look colours you get from these. and maybe YOU as a hobbyfilmer have to "edit the heck out of it", but pro colorists do it way faster because of a good workflow and professional editing consoles. even with more cine cams like blackmagic or zcam you don`t get the real cine look like from arri or panavision. cine look is not just playing around with some colours, consumer cams and bokeh. it still looks like VIDEO, not film. so, the videolook of today is better than 20 yrs ago, ofcourse. but it still looks like video. thats the experience i made since i started filming in 2006. we have great cameras today, coming from a long way from super8 to mini DV and finally get big sensors and interchangeable lenses. but let`s be honest... a closer look reveals: this is no cine look. its photo look video with 24 photos per second. oh and that 7artisans chinese cheapo lens also doesn`t kick you into cine. nope.
A cinematic look is mainly achieved with lighting, composition, and lenses/filters. You are dramatically over estimating the role that the camera plays in getting this look.
