I Rebuilt The Cheapest Broken Down UTV (Better Than New) 

It hurts to watch you press those bearings from the centers

You should find a parts washer. I guarantee you aren't removing all of the metal debris from inside with shop towels.

Did anyone notice how he pressed the bearings into the cases by the center race of the bearing that could damage the bearing right from the start always press bearing into a case by the outer race of the bearing ! Just perfect

Love your videos! just remember when pressing in bearings don’t press on the center section of the bearing use The outer ring as the pressing point to reduce possible cage damage.

I am always surprised you don’t own a parts washer. With all the dirty crusty parts i see you handle, as the man said,” I am sure all the metal chips are not removed with a shop towel”. Great channel!

And....here we go again. Spend $2,700 on some junk. $1400 worth of rebuild stuff and all the time.... But still can't spend a few hundred dollars for a parts washer to make sure everything is clean😮

Do not press the bearings in by the inner ring!!!

Joe, you can definitely justify the cost of a part cleaning tank for the channel. This is great content.

An old timer master mechanic standing in the shadows, off camera, petting Vinny, and coaching, would do wonders.

6:04 Do you have a manual showing it’s okay to press a roller bearing in like that? You risk dimpling the races or the balls by pressing on the inner race. Ideally you’d want the pressing force to go in thru the outer race only (when installing) in this scenario.

Be nice to see a clean engine going together with those nice parts just sayin

Part of me understand that you're always looking for the next project, so cranking them out quickly is important. As well as the 3 videos a week. Just slow down a little bit and think about the small details. As others have said, whenever pressing bearings, always use the outer race ( im not being a prick about it either, just a tip). The reason so many people are saying to clean the cases inside and out, is because when a buyer looks at a "complete rebuild" and the outer case looks like it hasnt been touched, it makes them wonder if as little care has been taken on the inside as well. Keep doing what you're doing. It's clearly working for you, just try and hone your skills on every thing you have a chance to.

You should put the cases in the oven at about 250 degrees, and put the bearings in the freezer overnight.They'll go together easily without pressing.

I was always taught to never press on the internal race when pressing the bearing in. It should be the outer race so you don’t put pressure on the bearing and damaging them.

Gotta a question for those of you who know about motorcycle repair. If you have to split the case and replace bearings, wouldn't you want to replace all the bearings and not just the ones that "appear" bad. There was a lot of metal shavings inside the case.

Never press bearings in by the inner race. It puts allot of stress on the bearing components. I use heavy duty transport socket set. They are big in size and impact rated. Then you can find the exact one that fits inside the case with no resistance but it only puts pressure on the exterior or case side of the bearing. Hope that tip helps. Harbor freight or our princess auto has the bigger socket sets available for reasonable cost. So many times I've used them for press. I don't think the inside has even been used.

Been doing this type of work for many years yes press the bearings from the outer race and a parts washer too all parts should be washed before you order parts so if there is any part that was damaged but was not seen due to dirt or grease debris you find it at that time. Yes replace all bearings with the fact that this had all that debris in the case. Yes put rings staggered. Assembly lube is a good thing to use freezing the bearings and heating the case great idea. Remember group, give this guy pointers we all started here and I always say to my techs when you were born could you walk? He is doing well and with good pointers from the group he will be a champ in this industry and hobby. Keep up the good work and drink in the good pointers given here.

As several have commented, you definitely need a parts washer to not only clean the inside of the cases but the outside should look as clean as the inside. You need to also clean the UTV itself before putting a rebuilt into the space, IMO. That is you want to claim "Better Than New". Love watching your videos.

You should press the outer race when pressing a bearing like that… I did it like you did and wreaked the inner race. Not criticizing just hoping to help avoid disaster.

You definitely need a washing machine for these pieces to be 100% clean. It's a must have.

Can't believe you didn't pressure wash under the engine and rear end before placing the engine back in!

a little lifehack for you is, Squirt a little hot glue between your lapping suction cup And the valve. It stays on until you're done and then everything comes off really easy when you want it to

I Ave always been envious of people that can take things apart and remember how to put them back together. I have little patience doing teadiuos stuff like that. Congrats. Great videos.

I was just watching a video of yours from a year ago, where you were having trouble removing the exhaust, died from the cylinder. The next time you run across a problem like that after you weld the nut to the stud try shocking it with some water. Sometimes the sudden change in temperature will help in loosening the stud. I find it to work very well. Thanks for the videos. I have enjoyed them.

At least the press was clean ! LMAO !

Loving the videos, very thorough in what you do with great editing to be straightforward on what your doing to keep us the viewers engaged in the projects.

Yeah, as I said, you should have pressure-washed the engine and bay previously. Keep the whole operation as clear as possible. Not going overboard, just making it presentable and not scrappy looking. But I can't deny you do a great job.

I can see the lack of care when putting the engine together ie cleaning the cases correctly or the way your pressing the bearing in. Guess your selling the machine..

If you looked at the state of the engine from you outside you would laugh if someone told you it was brand new inside 😂 ... Love it when 2vintage uploads a vlog but 100percent invest in a parts washer for yourself 💪

Hey Joe: First thing I have ever seen ya'll do I did not agree with. The crank bearings. Ya'll pushed on the center which pushes directly on the bearings. The bearings were not frozen overnight in the freezer and no co2 cooling. Anyone else would or could have ruined those bearings without a perfectly flat or actually pressing on the outer ring as that is where the force is applied. Don't mean to be a negative Nancy but you usually are very fastidious in your manipulations.

With al the upgraded aftermarket parts on that thing, it should last a LONG time of service out on the farm. Nice job Joe, I'm sure it'll run like a champ next video! Thanks for the hard work man, Happy New Year!!

I think how many times you have to reposition the cameras to always have the build on film, takes a lot of prep doing what it is you do to impress your audience. Well Done, You make for a great educational shop instructor teacher, Very Knowledgeable Definitely ASE certifiable #1 and IMTF "INTERNATIONAL MECHANICAL TASK FORCE, TOP TRADE CERTIFICATION.

This guy gives new meaning to quick and dirty rebuilds lol wash that shit .

This is one of my favorite channels, but please get yourself a ultrasonic parts cleaner. With as many projects you have going on, you could have parts in the cleaner while you work on other things. Saves a ton of time. I don't questions whatsoever your knowledge on repair but the cleaner will help, especially for Carbs.

I freaking love the rebuilds! Can't wait for part 2. Nice work buddy:)

Thanks! Video and comments all very entertaining and helpful! Happy new year to all!

I really have to agree with everyone that recommends a parts washer. My first reaction to watching the engine repairs was they won’t last due to all the junk that hasn’t been cleaned out of the new assembly. It takes a few extra minutes to clean the engine parts and another 30 minutes to power wash the entire vehicle. Will make a huge difference.

Looks like you got a new tool never seen you use that bearing press before 😮

That new parts kit is really nice. Thanks for another great vid.

Joe I like how you point out everything. It makes me feel like I could do this. Can't wait until you get a big shop. And overhead crane would be nice.

Thats a beast of a motor. Was cool to see the new parts that looked like real good quality. I thought the bore would have been bigger to push such a big vehicle but i gues will see! Cant wait man, thumbs up as always Joe.

Good video, and i saved it because I have the exact same 570 color and all with a heated cab that I mostly use for pushing snow, never know I might need to re-watch this video several times if I ever need to rebuild my engine.

Also Joe: I am not sure why ya'll don't put a thin ceramic coating on both the pistons and heads. It reduces the metal temps by around ¿¿¿° saving both seals and bearings from heat of combustion. You put the coating on then put it in a small toaster oven for a bit so it don't come off.

Awesome video Joe as usual great job. Would love to see you invest in a parts washer 😊🎉🎉keep up the great work !!!!

Good job joe all the best for the new year to you and family and dogs, hope you all had a good Christmas take care and god bless 👍👌🔧🔧🔧🦴🐾❤️

Also from the Upper Midwest (Minnesota) UTVs are a hot item, like 4x4 trucks, this time of year. Good job!

two lessons from the comments section. 1. do not press bearings from inner race/ring 2. get a parts washer

I just wish you were closer to where I live so you could fix my shifter lever....it gets stuck in gear....lol .....but I really like watching you do what you do, great job!!!

Nicely packaged kit as well.

Dang..the full Monte..that is a FULL build.

His assembly lube reminds me of the old STP lubricant we used in the 70s building race car engines.

After watching your vids for over 2 yrs. Iv'e come to to the conclusion that I am a fully pledged motorbike mechanic with city and guilds certificates

if you are doing all that.. should just solvent wash the entire case.. for peace of mind. Another great video Joe! is it me, or was the exhaust cam in 1 tooth off from parallel?

Hi I enjoy watching you put the engine together I do learn so much thank you .😊

Learn a ton watching and love them. Also go to comments regularly to learn what not to do also :) Takes thick skin to do what you do. Most people trying to help you improve. End of day better to focus on best practices rather then focus on pump video. Long term better to have community of people not yelling about pressing in center for bearings etc… if I was you I would make a note to not do that in your next video. But end of day what’s the goal here make video for money or help people learn properly what to do. If make mistake it’s best to note that and fix the issue so people learn. If don’t fix mistakes or let people know and they don’t go to comments to see problem then this isn’t a teaching channel it’s a content with no merit channel. It’s just a place for people to zone out and run it in the background. The small fixes that have outsized downsides people pointing out in the comments would literally take you 2 min. Put parts in cleaner while doing another video, that’s 1 min, and press on outside of bearing case (I’ve seen you do it properly 85% of the time on many other videos and even talk about it and how it’s important to do). That’s 2 min to do stuff right.

You do a good job on rebuilds and don't get cheap on parts. That being said, you should find a local auto repair shop that has an "automatic caustic soda parts washer". They cost money to run and maintain, but it would be worth a buck a minute to put all your project large parts in for 30 minutes. Just turn the timer and come back to parts that look like new...and are VERY HOT. When our shop got one it improved the look and quality of our finished product and the time saving has paid for it several fold (but they are very expensive for a one-man gig).

What are you doing. Never ever press a bearing from the inner race... you got lucky

Nice work,and great video!👍🏻

It makes me sad because I love you're initiative!!

Great Video. Time to up your knowledge. First, you need to purchase a set of Telescoping Gages (these are used to measure the inside diameter of objects, from as low 1/2" in., up to 6" in.) Second a couple of Micrometers, and a Caliper wouldn't hurt. For what your doing the Harbor FRIGHT (spelling intended) should work. It wouldn't hurt to search craiglists, or face crooks market place, for Starrett Tools (Machinist Gold Standard for Tooling.) Third, you need to go to your local welding supply, and ask about "Temp-Sticks," a.k.a. Temperature Sticks. From what I've seen you use heat on, to "EXPAND A BEARING," I would recommend something in the neighborhood of 250 Degree's up to only 400 degree's. FYI Aluminum melts @ 850 degrees approx. When using a temp stick, if as you mark a mark / draw a small line, and it seems like kids crayon's mark, the part is not hot enough, soon as you touch with the Temp-stick, it should melt CLEAR & WET. Instead of using SWAG Measurements. (SWAG = Scientific Wild A$$ Guess, ) you should want to control your Expandgence / Contractions, to a measurable (via Telescoping & Micrometers) 0.001.5" to 0.002.0" Thousandth. Just some FYI, besides using your home freezer, you could also use Dry-Ice. In my opinion Dry-Ice, is better than the home freezer. I'll leave out the liquid nitrogen for when you really want to shrink something. Liquid nitrogen-LN2-is nitrogen in a liquid state at low temperature. Liquid nitrogen has a boiling point of about −196 °C (−321 °F; 77 K). How to tell when using Liquid nitrogen, your part has reached MAXIMUM COLD. The part will stop boiling, while in the Liquid nitrogen. DO NOT TOUCH WITH BARE / UNGLOVED HANDS. For you Valve Lapping, make a Financial investment in a BLUE or RED SHARPIE Pen. This way your truly not SWAGING the valve seat. Coat both the valve-seat, and the valve face. Cost maybe a $1.50 (One-Dollar-Fifty Cents.) The sharpie, is a way to apply machinist bluing, without having to wait for the real stuff to dry after 5 - 10 min's. I like the BIGGER Sharpie's because they cover more surface area faster. Just a hint. For Valve-Lapping Standard Size Sharpie should work just fine.

Remember the loctite in the gear retaining bolts too. Never hurts to have a little extra peace of mind.

Thanks for these videos! How do you remember all the little stuff?

Hi Joe, love your videos, and have a great new year, only one critisum can you please jet wash your bikes and Atv’s before you build them, as it would look so much more professional, and as someone has already commented get a parts washer as well, just a suggestion. 🤷‍♂️ 🏍️ 🤷‍♂️ 👍👍👍👍

Wow ! To say doing that job is a challenge would be an understatement.

If you are pressing a bearing into a hole, press on the outer race. If you are pressing a bearing on to a shaft, press on the inner race. Never transfer the pressing power through the balls. Freezing the bearings would make bearing installation less invasive on the aluminum case. The cylinder should be scrubbed in soapy water with a coarse nylon bristle brush. You need to remove the microscopic pieces of honing stone to prevent pemature ring wear. I may have some criticisms, but I still enjoy your videos!

Joe, another excellent video. Just one suggestion....hand pack and grease those roller bearings and they will last forever. Keep up the great work.

Amazed that conrod never went through the crank case.How could you run an engine like that it must have sounded like a jack hammer

Pressing in bearings on the inner race !? Oh great job there . That bearing is spent ! . It's all perfect now though . MASTER BUTCHER AT WORK ! Repeat at your own risk .

I wish that I had your patience. Lol. I have so many projects, to fix and get running. Thanks for showing me how repairs should be done. Are you in Canada or northern US.

I'm impressed. Obviously there are people out there with the expertise to do this--and you are clearly one of them! I'd imagine a lot of what you know came from experience, but did you start with any training/education and if so, what? I'm also impressed with all the different tools and equipment you have (like the bearing press)--I imagine those are mandatory tools if you're going to do what you do, but still, it's very impressive to me! (I thought I was a hero replacing a carburetor on my lawnmower...I'm not worthy!!)

Im a little surprised that after spending the money you didnt clean up the outside of the engine case and the engine compartment tranmission and all the crud . It sure would look a lot better .

I really enjoy it when you do a utv rebuild and wish you could find a o5 Polaris 500 to do

ur videos are really good...keep up the great work

Not sure if the instruction you were following were the service manual or just the instructions that came with the kit but usually in situations like this with high torque values and steel threads to aluminum you should use liberal moly grease on the threads and the bolt heads and washers if any. That way you get topper torque and bolt stretch.

Nice job. Your videos are well done.

Yep, never press radial bearings from the inner race. Use faced off round bar just a tad smaller than outter race OD.

Not a mechanic but at 642 on video main bearing replacement l thought you needed to push on outer ring of bearing to not stress or wreck bearing itself am l wrong? Love the show. Thank you for your hard work.

I'm not a mechanic but I love watching people do their "craft"....the good ones, that is. I'm curious how many hours were involved in pulling the engine, tearing it down/cleaning it up, and reinstalling? Also how many hours of reading to do it right? Ball park time is what I'm asking, if you know? peace & love to watch this...

Not wanting to cause a problem but I have to ask did you clean out the oil passages any time I do a rebuild such as this I clean out all oil passages with brake clean and most of the time I use the big cans yes I know brake clean is a bit on the pricey side but it does the best at cleaning out the oil passages

All of the experts showed up to watch this one.

Beau boulot Je pense qu'il serait bien que vous achetiez une fontaine pour nettoyage des pièces. Ça vous ferait plaisir Good job

Recently found your videos! As a fixer/builder myself, I’m hooked! Great job on the videos!

Just for future reference the ring gaps should not be placed on the pistons pressures points relative to the cyl. you want them on the pin side of the piston to ensure proper sealing. IE: place gap at 9 or 3 o'clock compress ring with fingers at 12 & 6 closes fine, now turn ring gap to 12 or 6 and once again compress at 12 & 6, you'll notice it won't compress properly. Same as in the cyl. the piston has all the force applied at 12 and 6, you can see this on old pistons that will not have worn at 3 & 9 but always at 12&6. Not trying to be that "guy" just passing along a bit of info. Keep up the hard work I'm rooting for you. 🙂 Edit: parts washer?

Good job Joe enjoy your videos keep up the good work

You can lap them and hone it out it's not gonna hurt anything. Will definitely help.

All valves should be lapped to make sure both the seat an valve are touching all the way around the seat if it isnt the seats in the head needs recut , can't believe the halfass cleaning job on this complete rebuild job along with the just perfect mechanic work

Invest in scotch brute pads and wheels . Gasket surfaces and all so much better . Like the vids for sure .

Oh man we're almost there... 🎉HAPPY NEW YEAR🎉

What brand of gasket maker do you prefer to use on the case halves? And do you put it on paper gaskets when you’re building other motor cycle and atv engines? And do you put oil on the head bolt threads and washers prior to installing them? Thank you

That was impressive. Nice job.

Nice job, love your videos

joe i think the gasket with metal in it should go betweet the head and the Cylinder not the case and the cylinder

Lol, everyone wants you to get a parts washer now. Anyway, if you ever get one, stick a magnetic flywheel in the bottom of it, then it will catch all of the metal bits. It keeps your fluid clean. That's an old machinists trick.

Great video, thanks.

Looks like you'll be replacing those bearings sometime soon after pressing them from the center.

Clean engine would look nice for a day or two. Nice work, love watching

ive really enjoyed watching your vids as I plan on flipping bikes as a side hustle and wondered what your history with small engines have been? have u gone to school for it or just accumulated knowledge over the years?

when did you get asphalt on the driveway? I'm looking to do mine soon. Are prices high right now?

How do you not know that you dont press a bearing in like that? You press it on the bearings outer race...