Go to NordVPN.com/ag... to get a 2-year plan at a huge discount plus 4 months free. It’s risk free with Nord’s 30 day money-back guarantee! Patreon: / agingwheels Merchandise: teespring.com/...
This guy's video editing skills are on another level, i've never seen anything like this before done anywhere, nice job there, noticable effort in every part of his content
Hey man, gotta say, love your ingenuity and creativity, can relate to your headaches, failure attempts etc. I can relate to it because I go though these all the time. But every-time I manage to succeed, that's how I know you too will succeed. Looking forward to see the finished product working and your kid smiling.
There are plenty of people on here who will offer their advice etc. I just want to say thank you for posting two excellent videos, they were entertaining and informative, crucially they were also brutally honest - very few RU-vidrs are honest and brave enough to show their failures. What I particularly liked was your approach to problem solving and analysis of the issues that arose. I think a lot of people seem to think that creating something like this is relatively easy - although you really did make it difficult for yourself by using an alternator! You've proved that's totally not the case! I look forward to seeing how you do in the next video. Thanks once again. Best Regards. Lin. UK.
@@GDMHificationranpitc I was just being a ball buster. I come for the entertainment, which he's successful at. It would be nice to have some closure, but obviously a project that big can be hard to get done even without complications.
The fact that you had so many fails and pressed on, while explaining everything, means I want to watch more. So tired of the magic one two three done videos where "I didn't even measure, it just worked". Thanks for the awesome content!
For the bus bar clamps, you could also put the clamp screws inside the acrylic sheets with the threads pointed out, then use a steel nut to tighten down the bus bars. But your 3d printed solution is more elegant.
I saw your reliant robin video ages ago. I'm so glad the algorithm found us again. I've subscribed to both your channels. I absolutely love this shit. Although having this much gear gives me anxiety about maintainance. I love when I find RU-vidrs I totally relate to, even though I'm not an engineer nor do I actually drive. 😂
This is great - most youtube stuff is "I made this and it went perfectly first time, look how I did it in 12 seconds thanks to editing". Watching the struggle is a nice reality check
Look at where the hall sensors are.... in between the iron holding the coils on the stator. Most commercial brushless motors have the hall sensor far away from the stator coils. I think what is happening is going to the bigger/more powerful controller is causing the hall sensors to trigger on the stator field and they cannot "sense" the rotor field.... Long story short, the stator field is so strong the hall sensors cannot "detect" the rotor as it rotates. Just a thought. Keep up the good work and you will get it eventually. :-)
really, really enjoy seeing the full process on these go cart videos. very effective way to learn and one I've never seen used on youtube before, thanks.
Thank you for addressing the fact that everything you were saying about Australia were just stereotypes and not what we are actually like. Really appreciate it, and keep up the good work with your projects.
Oh my god I love all the mistakes you're making here for the rest of us, not only that but showing us the mistakes and explaining why The mistakes are valid mistakes, this is absolutely priceless!
Oh my goodness! That was a ride!! Good luck with it whenever you come back to it. The only thing I’d suggest is that you mount the battery pack to the frame of the kart rather than on the rear axle, then it will have a bit more cushion from bumps and rattles etc.
I think you need filtering. Because of how a alternator has to have the rotor charged to 12V to work. The center of the alternator is basically a brushed motor. This may cause electromagnetic interference in the hall sensors. Try adding low value ceramic capacitors between the plus and negative terminal on the 12v in and ground them to the motor case itself. The same way you would see them on older brushed rc cars. Hope this helps. Good luck on the build!
10:00 that's because the transformer is not designed for 240V. The primary windings saturates A LOT more. It's already being saturated at 120V, because they are chinese junks, made to save as much money as possible. You can just rewind it or use a bigger 240V transformer. The copper busbars, I don't recommend doing this as you need to sand/abrasive off the contacts (to get rid of oxidized layers, also dirt etc) to reduce the resistance a lot.
"I'm liking 3d printing!" < yes, as I figured you would! Welcome to the family of people who now own a 3d printer and now manage to figure out ways to 3d-print themselves out of problems they got themselves into.
I know that there's nothing like the feeling of completing a difficult or troublesome task and that there's nothing like giving someone a gift that you built with your own hands, using your skills... but this task started as the simple idea of using an old alternator and other inexpensive parts to make a basic but functional electric go kart and now it turned into building a costly and intricately designed electric go kart. At this point it would probably have been more practical and cost effective to just buy a factory made electric go kart and spare yourself all the unexpected difficulties and labor... but like I said, building and designing something yourself has its redeeming qualities.
When it hits 72 volts, it's basically dead. Voltage regulators take higher voltage and chop it down to what the components are rated for till the input voltage drops below their regulatory voltage, then they stop supplying power to save the battery.
Hi, the reason might be, that the hall sensors are not placed in the middle. And since the magnets are triangle shaped, its not working, since the controller is ment to work with equally shaped. The same Problems you had happened Austin Blake in his Video to Building an Alternator Powered Bik, too.
not just sustained heat .. the bigger issue is that the connection can come loose easily as solder joints tend to crack etc when cooled down and heated repeatedly also flux could cause a layer between the object and the solder, that will stick the solder to it, but wont properly connect
Have you checked the max current rating of the BMS, it could be that a noisy current draw of the driver will cause an over current shutoff in the BMS. Maybe try a few large filter capacitors across the battery to help
Hey, not sure if you've seen this but a guy named Austin Blake had the same issue with hall sensors that you did, and found a setup that worked for his electric bike conversion. Might be worth a look.
I wanted to check back on this, it was a really fun project/experiment & you put in serious effort to try & get this thing to work, so good job and TFS this. It would be nice to see you re-visit this project (or maybe you have?) and finish it off, even if you have to bite the bullet and get a decent donk to suit ur controllers, etc, it would make another great vid for us viewers & some kids real happy Im sure. I would suggest to maybe incorporate a limiting device for new or younger riders tho, as with the right motor this thing could have a lot of potential. I put a 24vdc 500w motor in a small 2 stroke Chinese quad frame many years ago, with 3 x 12v 14A batteries for 36vdc & a shitty Chinese controller and it went like a power of shit, the kids and adults loved it anywhere it went, it had decent lights, blinkers, horn, speedo, everything worked and I passed it on to my nephew for his kids still going strong 8 years later. Cheers from Australia
I went for a haircut the other day. Instead of letting me leaf through a hairstyle brochure, the barber put this video on and said “hit pause when you see the one you want.”
I've wondered about the efficiency of a car battery, inverter, heavy duty fan motor, bicycle gearbox setup. I have all these parts, just not the fabrication experience to test it
From what I'm understanding 3.7 v lithium battery 18650 works good to power the armature other guys say that anything above that Rob's power from the motor I don't know if it's true cuz I haven't got mine to run yet ... Thanks for sharing
Maate you are hilarious, such an entertaining video. The subtle little funny things you added didn't go unnoticed. At least it only cost $5 for the motor.
I would take a look at your buss bar pressure. The plastic appears too weak. You might see with infrared camera if you have hot spots in these areas. You need extremely secure connections to ensure sufficient electron flow across those connections.
I would mount the batteries and electronics 2 feet further back so that way even though it's slow it can be a wheelie go cart. I have two Ebikes at 80v, one does 45 and the other does 60mph. But both are all aluminum and weigh 50-60 lbs fully dressed and I weigh 200 lbs.
I guess that Kelly fried your charger. IIRC controllers make AC ripple, controllers draw current in pulses, which can destroy charger (also DC-DC can be destroyed!), if you don't disconnect it during driving. To protect against it one should use coil in series (at least I did with DC-DC in my EV build). Also AC ripple could be the reason why hall sensing values are messed up. Just my 2 cents.
Maybe a good idea would be to ditch the alternator competely and go with a BLDC motor. If you like a challenge, instead of buying a brand new motor that won't be cheap, you can get a burned out three-phase AC induction motor in the scrapyard and re-purpose it as a BLDC motor. The construction of both of them is pretty similar, you'll just have to lathe the rotor in order to free some space to epoxi the permanent magnets and also rewind the stator. It's a shit ton of work, but it can be done for probably a 1/3 of the price of a brand new BLDC.
A single higher amperage 12v converter may help… don’t know how stable parallel dc converter output is under load, if they are not balanced. Maybe can try common ground and separate positive lines
I’m new to your channel and love your vids. You had a lot of bad luck with your gokart projects man. That first controller you had was actually just fine. I’ve had plenty of success with them. You also needed to just buy a kweld spot welder and you could have handled multiple layers of nickel strips. As far as the motor goes just get a 48v or 60v my1020 brushless motor for less than $100. Can get 35mph out of those.
If I remember correctly, don't hall affect sensors run on 5 volt circuit? Maybe they're wired up wrong or too much voltage is supplied to them. I don't know how you wired them up so sorry for assuming things.
Don't those controllers have a full throttle cut off. So when the throttle is applied all the way at once it shuts the controller off. Something to throw out there.
I have an electric bike with a sabvoton cot roller and you have to sync the controller to the hall sensors in the motor and detect the rotation maybe you need to do the same with your controller?
I didn't read exhaustively though the comments, but it would seem that you replaced everything but the junkyard sourced alternator. I might be totally wrong.
Rob watches MCM + DankPods… and is absolutely hilarious… as an Australian, i approve, just don’t try Aussie humor, please, it doesn’t end well… but do attempt a similar skit, that made me excrete myself with laughter, although that might have been because i was on the dunny… xD
You would have been fine with just the Nickel strip, you would not have been pulling 100 Amps from each individual strip, it would have been spread out over all the cells. For example, If I take 8 Lifepo4 Cells, and connect them in series, to make a 24 volt battery, and I pull 100 amps from it, each cell would have a load of 25 AMPS. etc. its the same for how ebike batteries are made with 36 Volt packs with the same cells, they are also spot welded with nickel strips. each cell in the series takes the load evenly, and when you have a parallel set up it halves the current between the 2 sets of series and again the load will spread out evenly. So lets say you have 100 cells, and 50 of them are in series, and the other 50 are in series. Now take 100 amps and divide that in half between the 2 for a total of 50 amps, now divide that again by 50 and each cell is taking on 1AMP. These strips or most at least are made to handle 5 amps before they pop for safety. Hope this helps.
