@@WaterproofBackpacker well, i personally find traction, control and pedictability more fun than pinballing off of everything, but maybe that's just me.
I've gone back the other way, after snapping 7 carbon wheels from multiple manufacturers, roval, reserve, enve, bontrager, and while they just replace them, it's always 2/3 weeks, and as someone who rides 2 or 3 times a week, it's just not acceptable to me. Now I just use DT Ex511 rims, they're not light by any means, but 1 year on, no dents, no wobbles, no cracks 🤞
@@bascopeach isn't that a frigging e bike? You can't judge by the same standards. And they have specialized forks for e bikes. I'd assume they have rims as well.
I switched to carbon ski poles over a decade ago. I used to break or irreparably bend them on average every 1.5 seasons. I'm still on the same set 10 years later. Carbon is durable. Still haven't pulled the trigger on mtb rims, but maybe one day. I will say that once I got a lot smoother, I kind of stopped wrecking aluminium rims...
I agree, I've swapped over to the We Are One Agent rims and have been surprised at the sharp response and added grip of the wider rim. It was a bigger upgrade for me as I was running factory aluminum rims which had a lot of play with only 23mm rim width. Thanks for the explanation of your reasoning. Cheers.
Have any of you tried using air to protect your rims, like with supple tires? Modern mtb tires use thick sidewalls for support, which have a regressive spring rate, and so the harder the hit, the more they'll cave. If you use a tire that relies on air pressure rather than sidewalls (and narrower rims to allow the tires to bulge) it becomes a progressive spring, which gives good protection for all hits. It means a thin sidewall, so probably more susceptible to sidewall cuts. And they make rides bumpier of course. I do this, but because I bike from my house and want tires that are good on pavement too, and they happen to come with supple casings.
This is honestly great advice. Couldn't agree more with all the points you made. My We Are One Agent's went through the ringer, I even ripped a spoke out of the wheel from a large loose rock striking the spoke and was able to continue riding that day with a wheel that was barely out of true. Carbon FTW!
ngl, if you ever need cash, with that voice, you could literally read stories to people before sleep and make money. Like holy shit, its such a beautiful voice, like those "dad" voices you often see in cartoons or movies. like listening to you speaking, its just so captivating, you explain properly, and speak fluidly, and just so nice to listen to it
I have had many of these same experiences with alloy rims (went through 4 rims last season) and have been asking many of these same questions about carbon rims. Thank you for a very informative video answering many of the hard questions regarding the jump to expensive carbon rims!
My carbon wheelset from is 4 1/2 years old now without a single broken spoke or cracked rim. I love them. Light Bicycle rims BC13, 321 hubs. Super strong. Hand built in the Minnesota by Speed Gear, $1300. delivered.
I made the same switch for the same reason ... 80% of my riding is at the bike park, and I kept needing new rims. If you're racing alloy makes sense, cause you can get away with a few dents, but if you're not sponsored and going through 1-2 rims a season, it makes sense to just keep an alloy spare and go with carbon. Can't say I notice much of a difference, but I got through this season on my Reserves with no issues. The caveat is making sure you go with a company that offers a *REAL* lifetime warranty (WAO, Reserve, etc) ... Not that they'll last a lifetime, eventually they'll need to be replaced from normal wear end tear, but if I can get 5 years outta them, I'll consider it a win!
I've still got one set of light alloy wheels on the XC bike, but once they're damaged, I'll swap them out as well. Even racing I started to have more unridable damage than ones I could limp by on. That was my argument for why I had stuck with alloy for years, but that's now out the window of reasons for me these days.
@@SemiSendy yeah and the carbon rims nowadays are *SO MUCH* stronger than they were even just a few years ago. I might think differently if they didn't have the warranty, but since they do, I really don't see any reason why you'd go alloy. And as I'm typing this you're talking about Snowshoe 🤣 That was the trip that made me by carbon rims. Cracked an XM 1700 the first day, and EX 511 the next. That place is gnarly!!
I love this style of video where you can follow the thought process and understand why your choice makes sense for you. To reach their own, right? I feel like I might be closing in of a similar situation as you. Weighing 200 lbs and started living more gravity oriented stuff I just broke my first rear rim. It was only a 28h so it's not surprising really. Bought a set of Halo Vortex to see if those can take the abuse of my riding style and location. If not I might go carbon right away to avoid the issues you've had. But I will go with a brand that offers a truly good warranty. P.S. Really nice editing on top of good content. I will stick around 🤙
Thanks, Simon! You nailed it, I try my best to explain my personal situations and thought processes so people can understand where I’m coming from and whether their situation might be similar or different. Mountain biking is so many things to many different people. I enjoy thinking about things and trying to find the best solutions to my problems, but also remaining open to other peoples experiences and advice. Stoked you’re sticking around! I’m really looking forward to the coming year here and glad you’re along for the ride!
Great timing on this video. I run aluminum rims (Industry 9 hubs) with Cushcore on my Ibis Ripmo AF. A couple of weeks ago I dented my back rim and ruined it on a Florida trail (Rabbit Ears at Alafia). I didn't know anything happened until I stopped at the top before the step up jump at the end. It was just a small dent at the edge of the rim. I had to drive back up to NC to grab another rim at my house. Now I have to get my I9 hub from the broken wheel onto the original Ibis wheels. What a pain!
Interesting. I shoot archery and switched to carbon arrows over aluminum for pretty much the same reasons. Somehow they're more durable and pay for themselves thru longevity.
Lighter, Faster, Stronger. Lemond debuted a carbon at Le Tour in the late 80s and since carbon has come a long way, even carbon from 7 years ago has seen a lot of improvement as well as more value carbon options. Not all carbon is made equal. Glad to see the bike community is catching up to this myth about carbon vs alloy.
I believe I live and ride in the same city and trails as you. I ride an $900 Al bike and Al rims, tubes, psi 20 F 30 R. Never a flat or problem...so far...lol
Carbon fiber bike parts are coming full force to the market and if it can make our bikes lighter and more durable, why not? New businesses making parts in China are going to compete with each other for markets, prices may benefit as well as quality, that is, if they want to keep their customers and aquire a name for themselves. On my part i'm installing a carbon stem and handlebar on my urban bike. Apparently carbon fiber is better at absorbing micro vibrations, can't wait to try it when springs come.
Your experience is one I have heard mentioned a lot lately by tons of harder charging riders that ride rougher terrain. Good modern carbon rims appear to be more resilient than even the highest quality aluminum rims. Not saying they won't crack, they of course can and do, but they appear to endure hard hits and stay true better than alloy. That said, I do not think everyone needs carbon rims. If you are not a hard charger riding gnarly chunk on the regular, quality alloy wheels are still a great product. I ride mostly less aggressive trails on my short travel bikes and have NEVER cracked or made an alloy rim unusable and alloy wheels can be made decently light with good spokes/hubs/nipples. My hand built set is about 1800g using Spank 350's and they have yet to need to be re-tuned. But I went carbon NOBL's for my Enduro rig, that will see harder and more abusive trails.
Agreed 100%! My i9 trail 270’s have held up really well previously on my Honzo and now they are on my Ranger. It’s really the enduro and DH bike that put the aluminum rims outside their comfort zone. You’re so right, aluminum is a great product and for people who aren’t having any issues with them, there’s really absolutely no reason to spend more money on anything else.
I really don't believe you that in a season you have cracked so many rims with DH/DD tires, Cushcore and >26 PSI. Everyone in EWS and DH would be off them if that would be true. Many riders tried carbon and have chosen aluminium for...durability. I ride for 3 years a set of Spank 350/359 with DD/DH tires, Andreani Supermousse inserts and 20/22 PSI. No problem at all ;) Is the bike industry paying influencers to convince riders they need an expensive "upgrade"? :)
All you said makes sense. But I still will use alloy rims, as I ride to riding areas and can ride hard and if I for some reason get a flat and do big drop or land wrong I don't want to walk home. I've seen a vid recently by Tommy Huynh he broke a carbon rim by casing it. Another dude sapped a carbon bar. I've not done that when I used a carbon bar. But now I have an alloy bar, but reasons for getting these bars were availability at the time. But I will stick with alloy rims, cus if I make an extremely harsh landing and have too little pressure even with Cush Core, I might flat spot an rim but I will ride it home. I've done tha t before, but I now check pressures before the ride and the valve nut before every ride. I've had dings just cus of loose nut, but usually Cush Core will protect agians thos eif it's just slamming rim intonsomething, but not on a 1 m drop, even with Cush Core rim will flat spot but I suspect a carbon rim might snap, but if even higher drop for sure. But for lighter type of bike for lighter riding, I don't see an issue.
I definitely agree, you should stick with aluminum if it’s working for you without question. You’d be surprised at how strong some of these more reputable carbon options are though. A 1m drop won’t make them flinch.
@@SemiSendy yea sounds promising, I don't know what Tommy had on his bike. But I don't want to be in such situation, especially when far away from home. But if a carbon wheel can take the abuse then I could try it. But I landed with Cush Core and alu rim on a thin steel support wall in city plaza when I landed a drop wrong, I probably lost air before or I just had too little air before, I had 24 psi I think now I ride with 28. I am 86kg fully kitted. That time I knew what did it. But had another set where I did not know for sure when it happen. But I will keep checking valve nut, pressure before every ride. Also never use Schwalbe rim tape agian, lost all air once before 4idibg of a set of stairs, good I had Cush cot ein front wheel, but was a flat landing.
Great video. I had a very similar initial skepticism of carbon rims which switched to a similar opinion to yours. My road trip killer was always rear hubs and blowing up freehub bodies, to which I made a similar decision to never use anything but DT or I9 rear hubs... so now I'm on We Are One rims on DT 350 hubs and they've taken a beating with only 1 broken spoke in 3 seasons and even that was still rideable until I could replace the spoke. That is another thing to note too: because of the inherent lateral stiffness of carbon rims, if you break a spoke the rim won't go as far out of true.
Just went carbon on a gravel bike and really like them, I had the same feelings you expressed in every way but I think carbon now a days is super solid and worth the investment longer term.
Well I have air tubes in aluminium rims, and those rims last me for an eternity, even though they're cracked, twisted on some places -- a little bit of fixing, and you're golden. And I'm riding a mountain bike, albeit mostly in city conditions, which still puts a toll by having to jump on borders and stuff. So idk if I'd want to pay for carbon rims, especially since I'm keeping my bike as little value as possible to not get it stolen.
Hey Aleksas, this is why I do my best to explain my particular riding style, terrain and reasoning behind my decisions. Mountain biking is many different things to different people, and there's no "one size fits all" solution to people's different bikes and set-ups in my opinion. Sounds to me like Aluminum is just fine for your situation, and I personally wouldn't try to convince you otherwise. If I was in your place, I would stick with what's working for me as well.
Riding a new Revel Rascal here in mid-Arizona...had a set of IBIS alloy wheels on my last carbon framed FS rig...and will be trying a demo set of the Revel Carbon RW 30's with the I9 1/1 hubs very soon...I am a rider north of 200 lbs., and my concerns over time echoed yours Rich...durability under the strain of my pizza/pilsner diet choices. Your video brings up some relevant concerns, as well as serious justifications for a Clydesdale rider like myself to go carbon hooptie. Your opinions shared on ride quality during the video were on point...thanks for that...I'll be very curious to see your long term reviews on the hoops you chose. Also, the RW30 options are attractive due to the recyclable nature (too much carbon in landfills as it is...), when you get time check out Adam Miller's video posted on Blister where he discussed the Fusion process/in house carbon chipper and their hoops lower environmental impact. Thanks as always for the great content...keep em' coming....
Thank you, John! I’m super impressed with what Adam and the Revel team have done with the RW’s! I rode a set when I first demoed the Ranger, and they felt great. I already had an I-9 system set for the build out I was using so I stuck with that, but honestly I would love to swap over to the RW‘s one day.
Good Video, Spoke X is local to me, I have to pay them another visit. I went from Carbon to AL so far the AL held up but not well, dings, dents and bends, I may try carbon again. I had my carbon rear wheel crack although the company replaced the rim I had to endure the time and labor to replace the rim. I demoed the big name in carbon that starts with an E and absolutely hated the ride and any tire change, too stiff to harsh and too expensive.
There comes a point where adding pressure creates unreasonable detriments to performance. Conditions, grip and track are all major factors when choosing tire pressure.
Sick dude you got the Spoke X wheels. Carbon wheels are rad and with inserts they are even better. I think Spoke X is so rad man. I want these wheels too.
I recently buckled the Mavic XA wheelset on my trail-ish bike...front wheel took a worse beating than the rear! I supposed a 65kg body weight and not-so-aggressive riding style shouldn't have been possible to cause that kind of damage. Now your video makes me want to try those carbon fibre wheels ;)
We r one is the best. I have not ridden other carbon wheels but I don’t need to. I’m over 200 lbs and have smashed into roots rocks and whatever is in between. It’s been over two years. These are as maintenance free as you can get. I’m running the unions with onyx vesper hubs. As an added bonus for can get completely customized wheels for less than you would other carbon wheels and still have a lifetime warranty . And these wheels are stiff but there is no harshness to them at all.
Same experience with Al rims. My last year using Al rims i went through 3 in 6 months and had then true a few times. That is went i decided to give Carbon a chance, 4 years on WR1 and not an issue. When i go on trips i do bring a spare rear wheel because you just never know.
We do often carry spare wheels, but this past season we traveled with four bikes in total, and cargo space became a real premium. Spares will still come along for race weekends no question. I do wish available cargo space wasn’t such a concern for us. Perhaps that will change down the road. WR1’s have served so well!
Well I am where you were still. I run I9 Enduro 305 Torch hubs I have two dents and have smashed them them pretty good but I can set a bead with a tire. Hard to imagine if these were carbon they would still be rolling. I might try some carbon in the future.
I don’t know without looking at the rim but what i do when my rims stop holding tubeless is just run tubes after denting rims i also run 42psi in the back and 37 in the front
Obviously which is stronger will depend on the particular rim, but I did notice that none of your aluminum rims smashed like a beer bottle. Its worth noting that in motorcycle racing, they don't use carbon rims, because of one catastrophic failure that happened in 1984. That was enough. I have never seen a motorcycle racer's wheel explode randomly during a race, I don't see the front ends of their bikes tearing off, I don't see their handlebars breaking like glass or their tires folding off the rim. The motorcycle filmmaker Troy Adamitis posted a lovely quote on his Instagram by mototrcycle mechanic Cody Schulz that said "Riders are gonna fall. They're expected to fall. But bikes aren't supposed to break." As the convergence of bicycles and ebikes happens, the whole industry needs to make this their matra. People don't go in and buy a new Kawasaki and then go through the alloy rims like you have on your mountain bike, because they're properly engineered and made to be fit for purpose. Regardless of the maeterial used, for the prices these bikes and parts sell for, and for the sake of safety, they have to be better engineered and quality controlled better than they are.
Great video man. Although personally, I don’t quite feel the difference between aluminum vs carbon, the lifetime warranty (and weight savings) makes complete sense.
Miltonator, my dude. That's crazy. I was just watching your video on progression creep the other day and meant to comment on it! I definitely think some of these bikes out there are a bit overly confidence inspiring, and it can really get you into trouble. Anyways, the switch to carbon has been going really well. The SX310's and WAO's are all going strong. I'd have been through several more alloy rims by now, no question. It's been nice having that piece of mind.
For the record, I do not work for We Are One. Nor am I sponsored by, paid by or otherwise incentivized by them. Believe it or not, sometimes people have positive feelings about products they use. 🤘 Aside from that, it is a very strict requirement by RU-vid that any paid promotions are marked and listed as such. Lastly, above all else I value the trust of my audience. I am alway honest and transparent about any and all of my partnerships and affiliations. Thanks for watching!
If you are going through so many different Ali rims there is a good chance that you aren't as good at setting your spoke tensioning as you think you are. Have only ever damaged 1 Ali rim. It was at the skate park on a sharp edge casing it really badly. Carbon would not have survived. I just loosened some spokes, bashed it straight, retensioned , made it tubeless. It's true and still going strong 1 year later. Watch Ali Clarkson's wheel building tutorial. It's mint. Have seen many carbon rims desroyed. I never use dh casing or rim defense either.
Absolutely. I use a couple of different builders, all of whom are extremely reputable and meticulous. I also have them checked and retensioned after initial use.
I switched from aluminum wheels to carbon EXC1200 and running dh casings front and rear. My weight is around 95 kilo and i‘m thinking to install a cushcore at the rear. Tire pressure is around 1,5 bar up front and 1,8 rear. What do u think abtut a insert? It‘s on my Enduro
Why don't you bump up your PSI a notch or two to prevent smashing rim so much? Yeah, you'll lose a little grip, but you'll roll faster and not have to be down for a couple weeks due to rim shots.
There comes a point where adding pressure presents an unreasonable detriment to performance. I'm not trying to run 35-40psi on a gnarly greasy track on race day when there are better alternatives available.
Loving my aluminum DT Swiss'. Broke carbon, as have many of my fellow enduro racers. Carbon is definitely nice on the trail bike though. Very snappy and responsive. I can't tell "harshness", per se, but can certainly feel that they're stiffer than any of my aluminum ones. My personal experience is limited to only Giant and Bontrager carbon.
@@SemiSendybontrager had issues with there previous versions yes but there new range definitely not the same i ride a set line elite on a hardtail at 105kg i push them over everything and they stil 100% touch wood lol. The also have lifetime warranty. I have no insert. Also i can tell you that tyre pressure and tyre size will play a roll whether you break your carbon or not.
Glad you finally saw the light Rich! I remember having a convorsation at TTC and you were adament that carbon was NOT the way. Good experiences can change even the most resilient assumptions!
I definitely remember that conversation. No question I’m a skeptic that’s seeing things differently. It’s all about staying open to a shift in perspective!
I’m rocking the DT Swiss EX511 aluminum rims and my rear rim looks exactly like the aluminum rims you showed at the start of your video. Cracks, dimples, and large dents. I’ve been riding with it in that condition for about 6 months now with no issues. Just because your rim isn’t perfect doesn’t mean you haven’t to buy a new rim
Hey Peter, take a closer look. Those are two buckle points and a crack in the middle. All of these rims in the video are fully out of round or have irrecoverable hops, not the sort of thing you want to limp along on.
If carbon was so good why don´t they use it for motocros and such. Imagine the kind of weight they could save in a complete morbike, frame, rims, bars hubs etc. Not defending Aluminium here, i´ve seen everything fail, titanium frames, steel cranks, carbon bars... you name it! While living near a bikepark I went two seasons with my alloy rims for a long time, then in a matter of days I snaped a couple of rims. I reckon that can happen with carbon too, and not just with rims, with derrailleurs (two on the same day almost on the same spot), derrailleur hangers, not a single one for nearly 10 years and then two only a few weeks appart. I dont blame the rims or for it, just dumb luck on my line choosing. I could always get alloy rims for cheep at that time, maybe 60 euros, and i did the lacing myself so thats that. There are way too many brands and models to have a true comparisson, and too many different bikes, riders styles, rider weights etc.
That's a great question, Al. Moto and MTB are wildly different in their considerations towards dynamics and user experience. One of the biggest of which being that one is human powered and the other is not. With a moto, there is a vast difference in rotational weight concerns. Being engine driven, the wheels are dramatically more robust and the weight proportion of the bike as a whole isn't even remotely in the same ballpark as a bike designed to be operated under pedal power. With bikes, rotational weight has a huge impact on our necessary output to drive the bike. As a result, there's a fine line between weight and strength. Since we are also dealing with a much lower amount of material usage, CF becomes a more reasonable and viable material to lean on to address the specific dilemma we're presented with. I'm happy to say that for me carbon has been a great way to address my frustrations, and rim failure is no longer a constant worry in my day to day riding. The content I create on my channel is never presented as nor should be taken as gospel. It's simply a detailing of my experiences and choices presented in the most objective way I can. I will always encourage you to do what works for you. Cheers.
I'm not riding my bike on this level. Most People are worried about a sudden death of the rim. I will see how long my Reserved wheels will last and how the replacement will work, when needed.
SC is really fast with reserve warranties here in the states. Hopefully you never have to use it, but if so hopefully it’s also a fast turnaround for you.
As a gravity orientated rider for a wobble 96-108 kg, i can't trust any carbon wheelset, and we're not even talking about money here, just that from 2014 untill nou, i.ve broken just one back rim and that was the manufacturer problem, not mine, so if we're talking rims, please be advised their great to use for sub 90kg riders. a goog set of rims are like 500 euros, a great carbon ones are 1500 euros minimum, so ....i'd anythime take the aluminium one....show me the top 10 mark from donwhill using carbon one and i/ll give them a try, untill then....hello ALU ! Ride on!
A shout out to Hunter and the wheel virtuosos at Spoke-X for setting me up with We Are One Union wheels and I9 Hydra rims last summer at a great price. Amazing wheels, not gonna be challenged by my trail riding and lighter enduro skill set!
theres a tire pressure on the side for a reason that's prob why you go threw so many rims...... ill tell ya i buckled a rim on a bmx smashing a curb edge but the rim still worked and i still did tricks. tire pressure is a thing to consider it keeps the rim stiffer to hard hits or bumps. also 26 psi is really low if you ride gravity the bike does have more expensive shocks then rims so try aluminum again with higher tire pressure and a different shock setting setup. just saying. also gloating that you find that carbons better is kind of in considerate.
Thanks, Zack. MTB tire set ups are quite different from BMX. As I mentioned, 26 psi is the lowest end that I go, and that’s during really wet and sloppy conditions. Typically I’m around 28-30 psi, always with inserts. That’s not at all out of range for what MTB tire manufacturers would recommend. The only marking on most MTB tires is a max rating, which means s far higher than what’s reasonable for a remotely proper ride quality and grip. I recommend reaching out to a reputable company like Maxxis and chatting with them about it. They can shed more light on the subject if it’s something you’re interested in.
Tried DT EX/FR rims? If you manage to destroy these you should consider investing your money in a bike skills course rather than some fancy carbon hoops.
Unfortunately, yes. I've got a million word filters in place trying to catch and eliminate these scam spoof accounts, but they always find a way to use terms not yet blocked. It's a problem on the entire RU-vid platform.
What about side durability for the typical cross country rider? Riding the desert trails in Arizona, the sides of my rims and sidewalls of my tires take a beating.
running cheap by comparison nukeproof horizon wheels with nukeproof insterts on my enduro bike, i can't say i've had the same experience. i don't race but i ride a lot of street when i can't get to the trails and my rear wheel is absolutely fucked, but after some elbow grease it still runs. After all the dents and cases I made I was already putting aside money for a new rim but after almost a year the wheel won't die. Carbon is great but 1300€.. man that's almost half my bike. I would have to destroy a lot more wheels to make that price worth it.
That's awesome they are still kicking along! Yeah, if you're not going through them at a rate that's problematic I would just stay the course with aluminum.
Not that I have broken any wheels but I've been wanting to get some carbon wheels for a while now. I've heard that even if you your carbon wheels are the same weight as your aluminum wheels the ride still feels lighter with carbon. In your experience, do find that to be true?
I’ll be totally honest, I can’t say I really associate a difference in the sense of a lighter feeling. There are definitely times when the lateral stiffness maintains more direct energy transferred into the trail which can offer a sense of more snappiness, if that makes sense.
Great insight, I don't ride at this level, but have been thinking about going carbon on my son's bikes. They have been very hard on rims, so far cushcore, DH casing and higher pressures have been my approach. The cost has always seemed a bit too much for carbon to just give it a try and always worried about cracking a rim. It got to the point I always bring an extra wheelset on our trips to snowshoe just to limit downtime. One additional question did you find any benefit in reducing weight making the bike feel more playful, they love jumping, but I am all about needing reliability, this and other posts are making me question if aluminum is really more reliable like I thought it was..
I haven’t noticed much in the way of wet differential to be honest, but I am running some of the most stout options out there, so I definitely didn’t shave much if at all. I think what they will notice though is the difference in the vertical stiffness, and how that drives more energy input to the ground. With tight hard berms you can really feel it, and when you compress into the turn and come out you have that much more pop.
I had many bent alu rims over the years. Since I have the spank 33 race with insert, I was not able to demage the rims again. One rim cost me 59€ from the internet and I build the wheels by my own. Sadly if a carbon wheel gets destroyed, you can't ride anymore. You are screwed. With a damaged alu rim you can still ride. I only ride park.
Carbon dampens vibrations,bumps etc I don’t understand why you thought they would be rough or not as dampening as aluminum even tho they are more dampening than aluminum believe it or not I bet if they had a aluminum version of your trail bike it would definitely be very rough and rowdy but carbon wouldn’t I’m surprised you didn’t notice that
That's not entirely true. Carbon CAN offer varying dampening properties, which are entirely dependent on construction. In fact, early carbon rims from Enve, a well respected brand, were notoriously harsh. Well beyond that of the notable aluminium competitors at that time. This was a well know problem in the community. What makes carbon so special is the ability to really fine tune it's characteristics through different layups, allowing the design to be either more compliant OR more stiff, and the art in the engineering process is finding where and how to apply variances in characteristic. Building a carbon rim is trickier than laying up a frame, because the the range for balancing mass, weight and strength is much narrower than with a frame. You're also dealing with more delicate components, like the sidewall interface, which are not nearly as straight forward when it comes to finding that balance. As I mentioned in the video, I was after maximum durability. It's reasonable to consider that a more durable rim is likely sacrificing a certain degree of compliance. For what it's worth, they do make an aluminum version of my current trail bike, and I've ridden and reviewed it in comparison to one another. I have a pretty solid first hand understanding of those differences through experience. These two scenario's are not apples to apples though. Cheers
You going to tell us about that coupon from WAO? Also talked to Hunter at SpokeX, good guy and will give them business when I get the opportunity. NBD incoming.
I went through 3 pairs of alloy wheels 2 years ago but then last year I switched to carbon rims. They aren’t even downhill rated. Just regular roval carbon rims that I bought for my stumpy and I ride very hard. I have had no problems at all with them. I usually run 20 psi and I smash through rock gardens, land to flat ect… no problems at all. Carbon is expensive but it’s the future
