I Think I Should Have Changed My Own Oil Sooner!! 

Back when I did my own oil changes at home, the oil filter boxes had instructions to screw it on until it touches and then tighten 3/4 of a turn. That always worked okay.

Project Farm on RU-vid is a great channel. Like the fact Kenny is old school. I'm 60 and don't like wearing latex gloves or whatever they are made out of. I don't like the feel of the gloves. Another good common sense video for young mechanics to watch.

i love when us mechanics let our oil go overdue for a change, because were so busy repairing everyones elses problems !!!!

Nice little video Kenny. I put the air pressure that is recommended for the car. Hey if you like a stiffer ride, go ahead with your bad self. You are correct that over pressure the tire will last a little longer than under. Low pressure will wear the sides, over will wear the center. My car says 35 for the size I use. Cold, it of course goes up when they get hot, most folks don't realize how hot tires get.

I had a Dodge that was slow to engage on start up. My builder told me that my torque converter was leaking down back into the pan. Since the model I had, 1988, the trans does not pump fluid in park (that's why the dip stick said check in neutral). The trans has to refill the converter before it can engage the clutches.

Just to let you know, I had watched one of your videos about oil changes and to open the hood first. Having this in mind, I had just changed the brake fluid in my wife’s 2015 Tri-Glide motorcycle and was gonna change mine since I had the tool and fresh brake fluid. I thought I’d better take the cover off to make sure I could get to the drain plug before I drain the brake fluid from the reservoir. Sure enough I couldn’t get the cover off. Saved me a big head ache. Good advice like start all the screws before you tighten any. Love your videos. Congrats on the new house.

When I was about 11 yo dad sold our 1961 impala and bout a 1971 AMC Matador station wagon. We found we had to back it in the carport to park overnight because it would not reverse on cold mornings on first start. It had a rubber band reverse that got cold and slipped until the transmission warmed up.

I have a magnet on a screwdriver type handle. It's good for removing the oil drain plug on hot engines. You don't get hot oil on your hands. Loosen the plug as usual but leave the last few threads in. Use the magnet tool for the last few turns. It was less than $10.

Kenny, as far as you getting a good deal on the oil that was awesome here’s my opinion and some folks may disagree. You’re a good guy you put out positivity and sharing your knowledge. I actually showed a video of yours to my girlfriend and now she understands why she has to change the oil in her car believe me that’s a win anyways in a previous video you stated that someone come in and why would you share all of your knowledge? Why because you’re a good guy and that’s why you got a good deal on that oil some people call it Karma and if you wanted to go biblical is the doctrine of reaping and sowing your sewing positivity into the world, you get positivity back. Thanks for all you do keep up the great work love your videos.

That's an interesting view of tire pressure. I do tend to slightly overfill, if only because I don't want pressure to slide down below recommended pressure as seasons change. When we traveled in Africa, we found it is standard practice to bring along a 12V tire inflator. They do that because with all the off road sand, ideal pressure is about 20 psi. Wildlife guides in Africa have found that underinflation makes a huge difference in sand to avoid getting stuck. When you come across a rare paved road, you reinflate to 36.

Kenny, you always make my day. Love you humour. I am working my way though your back catalogue and just love 'em all. You come across as one nice guy to know. I wish I could meet you in person someday.

Let me tell you a story. A buddy of mine had everyone over for a cookout. When we got there, he was changing the oil on his daughter's car. He had this filter pliers that he used to remove the filter. He has to head inside to help his wife with something so I continue with the oil change for him. I always hand tighter the filter per the instructions which I believe was 3/4 turn after making contact for this filter. He comes back just as I'm tightening the filter and he tries to hand me the wrench. I told him no wrench needed. You just tighten by hand 3/4 turn. He gets this funny look on his face like I'm crazy and proceeds to clamp down on this filter with the wrench and just goes to town on it. He fills it with oil and starts it up and a stream of oil starts flowing down the driveway. I peek under there and the filter is just absolutely crushed and he punctured a hole in it with the wrench. A stream of oil was shooting out of the hole. He heads to the auto parts store and gets a new filter. Takes him forever to get the filter off since he tightened it so tight with the wrench. Does he tighten it by hand this time? NOPE! He proceeds to take the wrench to the second filter and goes to town on it. It's all dented just like before but this time it didn't leak.

Great video Kenny. My commutes were 50 miles at hi-way speed, so my oil change schedule was 6000 miles. I would put 1 cup of dextron in the oil at work and drive it home then immediately change the oil when the contaminates were still suspended in the oil. I would ocassionally have to re-gasket an oil pan, rocker cover, and front of engine side around 300,000 miles, but there was no sludge. The engines I had looked like new inside.

I'm a bit reluctant to share this but... If you're in part of the US that has Meijer stores, go to the automotive department and go all the way to the back of the isles and on the back end caps you can sometimes find crazy deals on automotive stuff you can actually use. They can sometimes be very aggressive on the clearance since not many people shop automotive there. I've gotten oil jugs for under $10 several times. Wiper blades, filters, and I always find sidewalk salt super cheap there every spring and buy ahead for the winter.

I turn the filter, after the seal touches, another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. When somebody gets another car check the lugs, most garages put them on to 150+lbs. It'll leave you stuck somewhere trying to get the lug nut off with the small lug wrenches the manufacture gives you.

Yes! The old 2nd gen Explorer tires were suggested to be around 25 or actually even less PSI.. And it led to the tires exploding from overheating and then accidents, obviously. Ford redid the stickers on them to say a proper pressure (35+) but it was a real issue.

Love your content Kenny. Keep it coming. Congrats on the oil score. Great to hear your thoughts about vehicle maintenance and why you do things, the way you do, and why? Experience is a hands on thing, not something understood from reading a book, or a video? Glad to see you like to teach people. If I could remember all the time's people taught me something life changing as a mechanic, I would try to pay it forward, just like you do? Keep it real, Kenny.

Another great channel for oil testing is Ford Boss Me. Very informative.

I need that engine too. Thanks for the different content.

Thanks Kenny, love your videos. Thanks especially for taking the time to let us watch the oil splash out of your funnel and onto the floor, I laughed my ass off on that one. You just let that happen with no big deal. On tire pressures, I never go below the door label, but I will add an extra few pounds. From there, I will check the wear depth across the tread. For me, I found that because of my highway driving, the wear depth was greater at the center than near the edges. At that point, I will take out a little bit of pressure and try to equalize the wear depth across the entire tire tread. I suspect the type of driving, loads, and tire type probably makes a difference on that wear.

Great video as always! I have a 2000 Ram 1500 and my transmission has been rebuilt and it is doing the same thing yours is doing. In the morning, I will drop it in drive and wait 5 seconds, drop it in reverse for 5 seconds, then back to drive. At that point you will feel a good clunk so you know it’s in gear and ready for the day. It’s been like this now for at least 4 years. Runs perfect. It’s just a Ram thing! -KB 🇺🇸

Agree, 15 to 20 year old cars sticker in the door says 33 psi. Now max pressure for tires 44 to 50. I also run new tires 4 or 5 psi below max pressure.

I agree with you on tires

Transmission-Low fluid or low fluid pressure will cause exactly that. It amazes me, and I'm sure you've already checked it, how many customers I've had with stalling at a stop sign come in to the shop and it's low fluid sloshing around and exposing the pick up at a stop. Since it only does it cold, maybe a new filter and some clean fluid would help. Lucas ATF treatment is a miracle worker too for hardened seals.

Those pieces inside the oil fill tend to do that even if you do regular oil changes in places where you have cold weather. The fix for it is to put a later model PCV system on it that comes off of the rear of the driver's side head. I believe it comes off of either the valve cover itself or a bolt next to the head or on the head. They are always nasty. You can make it look better than that, but I have one that does the same thing. I have not upgraded it, and it's on a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I once purchased a car with an engine that was heavily sludged. I thought that I could speed the cleanup process by adding a little kerosene to the oil a few days before I planned on changing it. It worked too good and released so much sludge that the oil pump pickup screen plugged and caused a huge oil pressure drop. I ended up disassembling the engine and removing probably a gallon of sludge.

fantastic deal on the oil. I would have bought it all too. I do some farming and I have a few tractors

I'm a mobile 1, 15w - 50 full synthetic user. Almost 280 k on my 2005 gmc canyon, 5 cylinder vortex, 3.5, all original. Owned it since new. Never any major repairs or problems.

1:45 Just how many times have you seen this? Take a guess for us. I have a body shop, I paint around 200 cars a year. Been doing this for 17 years Counting the cars that were hit in the front, maybe 20 cars I had to cut my way in. Maybe 2 cars I had to use vice grips in the hood cable, witch the owner had laying in the floorboard.

I've found that the round drain funnels splash a lot less than the square ones. As far as tire pressure, I always set them to whatever is on the door jamb. I'll overinflate a pound or 2 in cold weather to keep the stupid tpms light off

If you don't lube the rubber gasket of the oil filter with clean oil, what can happen is that the rubber gasket may stick to the mating surface on the motor, so be sure you verify that the gasket has been removed with the filter when changing filter. I suppose if you don't tighten it with a filter wrench but only with a little bit of hand pressure that might not happen as often or even at all, but I prefer to use a wrench to be sure it's tight. I have had the filter loosen up many hundreds of miles after an oil change I paid for. Good think I caught it in time. It doesn't always happen, and the expense can mean buying a new motor. It's just not worth the risk.

Check with Sonnax and see if they have a valve that prevents converter drain back in your transmission.

Great video, a advice id give you is throw a quart of ATF in the crankcase and leave the engine running for 25 minutes before oil change. ATF cleans stuff up great

Hey Kenny, I'm sure you know by now, but it can prevent splashing with oil drain funnels and tanks to put something like a floor scrubber pad in the tray part. You know, the same principle as a urinal screen. :D Less mess to clean up afterwards.

Thanks for the video Kenny nicely done with the oil change. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️.

I only tighten my filter hand tight, but still need something most times to loosen it.

Transmission issue may be that the check valve was removed from the cooler lines during the rebuild.. (helps to get the cooler and lines clean and the check valve itself can be a problem) . Without it, the torque converter drains the fluid and has to be in a gear ( any but Park) for the pump to fill it. Like your videos and demeanor a lot. No bad words when the oil was splashing... God's still working on me.

The service manual on my '14 Chevy SS says 7500 miles between oil changes. The oil life service % screen before changes,It usually goes to 8000 miles before I have to change it. Newer vehicles that use synthetic oil, you can safely get 5000 miles between oil changes. Just use a good K&N oil filter!

My favorite car to change the oil was my 1976 Mazda Rx-3 with the Rotary Engine. You kick the pan underneath then Open the hood, pull the drain plug, R&R the inverted oil filter, replace the drain plug, and refill the oil All From the Top leaning over the driver's side fender. No need to get on the ground or raise the car. Five minutes, tops, unless you want to change the four spark plugs while you're in there and all the plugs are accessible with a socket, wrench, or even an adjustable wrench or pliers.

On my Subaru Forrester I had Toyo tires fitted, I kept them inflated 6 lbs above the recommended pressure. Great traction and they lasted for 73,000 miles.

Changing oil and filters as recommended, Keeps the car healthy and owner wealthy (less repairs)

Thanks for showing this I was somewhat dumbfounded about how to get it out when I first saw it. Always enjoy your videos!!!

Just an FYI. I always used diesel oil in gas engines. Diesel blends are more resistant to breakdown and have a higher detergent content.

Use a sponge sheet on the funnel to advoid splashing

If it locks up it might be a torque converter problem, or maybe it just needs clean new fluid. My van likes new fluid. When it begins to shift funny I change the fluid and it goes back to smooth and has that right kind of sound to it. I change transmission fluid by removing the lines to the radiator, directing them into a drain pan, then start it up in neutral and watch what comes out in the pan. When there are two quarts in the pan, I make sure I have added two quarts of new fluid. When the fluid runs clean I shut it off, connect the lines and top it off. That way the transmission has not run dry at any time, and nothing strange was effected on the transmission, just a change of fluid. Mine really likes clean fluid.

Fun fact: the Valvoline high mileage oil also has additives that recondition rubber seals so that they are less brittle.

I always put oil on my oil filter rubber gasket, but always hand tight a bit more than in this video . good video again .

At 1:56 FINALLY someone else out there understands that. I always do the filter first. I'd rather a full oil filter drop into an empty catch pan instead of one with 5 quart's of hot oil.

I'm a fairly new viewer but I,am experimenting with tire pressures on my Citroen. 40 rather than 26 has sharpened up the handling, taking it from,a big, gormless luxury wagon to a nice driver.

Here in Canada most vehicles have day time running lights. A trick I’ve seen to remove an oil filter…. Use a plastic beer cup over the filter. squeeze cup while removing. Oil leaks in the cup. No mess

Check that pinion nut buddy. I switched to royal purple in my 04 ram and it's staying clean. When I rebuilt this motor I pulled the thing apart and it was so clean. Mobile 1 synthetic is what the previous jeep owner used as the tone ring needed changed on the crank. My trans is doing the same thing Kenny. 205k on original transmission.......

I like Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It raises the oil pressure and it reduces oil consumption which also lessens the blue cloud in my mirror. I believe it pays for itself in reduced cost in buying oil. I see no reason not to use it. I used it for many tens of thousands of miles and then removed oil pan and valve covers to stop some oil leaks and all was clean underneath. Many tens of thousands of miles later, when the van began to fail emissions tests and all the shops wanted to do was take my $150.00 for a waiver so I could get my tabs and hope to see me again in 2 years and do nothing, what happened in time was that my valve covers and rockers were full of junk. This I found out when I decided to replace valve seals. I blame the dirt on a dirty running motor because they basically refused to work on it, always saying "It's not worth it." Well it was worth it to me so eventually I learned that I could read codes myself by turning the key switch and counting the blinking red light, writing down the numbers and looking in a Chilton's book and finding which parts to replace to clear all the codes and all of a sudden all sorts of smooth power came back and the van came alive and smooth and gas mileage was back up again. Yeah, it was worth it after all. Took about $200.00 worth of parts and my labor but man, was it ever worth it!

Regarding tire pressure I typically look at the manufacture recommended tire pressure tag on the drivers side door jam and then inflate them 2 pounds above that recommended specification.

I got my 04 ram 1500 new from dealer 230K miles ago. Valvoline oil every 3K, few times I slipped to 5K without realizing it. High millage oil at 150K. Oil is never black but I have chipped the crud off of that PCV splash guard 3 times so far. Each time it was 1/4 inch thick. Replaced the valve cover gaskets. Rockers and drain valleys are clean.

yep, higher pressure does improve handling on both cars and trucks, especially on cars! Ride is hard on some cars, but handling benefit is real, and it's also safer overall than soft levels like 30 or 32.

Thank you for telling people it's O.K. to set your tire pressures higher? I run 38-40 in the fronts of a FWD, and 36-38 in the rears? All my vehicles. Great job, Kenny.

Thanks! Great information!

I do the same always change the oil in my 01 3/4 ton 5.9 V8 while blazing hot(burned myself a couple times whoops lol) and same for my 92 12 valve as well. 12 valve I change around 4500 and V8 I change around 2,500-3,000 in regards to changing oil in a diesel I've been very fortunate usually the oil in my 12 valve doesn't get dirty until around 3,000 miles in then it starts to lose a little bit of oil when I get to around 4200-4500 so I've decided to change at around 4000-4500 instead of 5,000.

Use Liqui Moly engine cleaner. I used it on a caked up intrepid after doing the water pump which leaked coolant into the oil. After the treatment it ran like new. Also the timing chain tensioner would not tighten the chain before but after it worked perfect.

Oil yes regular changes is important. For a cheap and safe engine clean simply add in a half quart of SAE30 HD3 diesel tractor oil in a few days before doing the next oil change. High detergent oil for farm tractors, it will clean a lot of the gunk off the engine, as it is meant to keep soot in suspension for farm tractors, that spend a lot of time idling. Yes filters almost always have a bypass valve ( though some of the no name brands do not actually put it in, adds 10 cents to the cost) that will typically open at around 20PSI pressure differential across the filter media, on the theory that having oil flow, even if dirty, is a lot better than no oil flow. But having this valve operate does mean all the junk and tramp metal the filter is supposed to remove, and a lot of the stuff it has removed, and which is inside the can, now can travel past the filters. Not great for bearings and the rotating surfaces, and definitely not great for small clearance holes, like lifters and variable valve timing actuators. Great on the oil, I got some filters for my car cheap, old stock ones that were sitting at a store on a shelf, at the price they were selling them in 2008. So next service filter is there already. Will differ with you on the dry filter, if the surface is just wiped clean, yes you can put it on dry, as the oil film on the housing will lubricate it, but if it has been washed clean with brake cleaner, oil the filter seal. I just grab a bit of the old oil and wipe it, then pull that seal out, flip it over and oil the underside as well, and make sure it fits back in the groove properly. Recently had a no name filter which, brand new, was leaking, I assume from the metal face not being true, and thus the seal not holding. I only buy 2 brands, GUD or FRAM, as they are locally made by me (20km away), and are the OEM brand for most vehicles in the country. 1 million Toyota filters made by them, they pretty much have it right. As to tyre pressure, the top end of the vehicle manufacturer spec is the one to go for, as yes that is the one for either heavy load, or for economy. You want comfort make sure you have a high profile wheel and tyre. Painted on rubber and all alloy is always going to be harsh ride, and noisy. Drivetrain yes likely dry universals, or they lost a needle when putting them in, grease will tell you quick if the UJ was dry, or if you are spending a hour changing both sides. Gearbox simplest first test is change the fluid, fill back to level, and run it, as otherwise the issue is a sticking ball inside, or a seal that is leaking when cold internally.

I believe in using Lucas, you may not like it, but I've got well over a Million miles using it... Cat 3406 E @ 700 HP, and 1850 Torque, When I parked that truck it was Clocking 1,981,760.7 Miles After I broke the Frame on that 02 379 Peterbilt... Different Strokes for Different Folks... I use Lucas as an assembly lube as well... Have a good night...

I like how you think about things. Enjoying your videos.

i got one of those mats that you put in the square funnels, and it lets oil drain with no splashes and holds filters and drain plug up on top high and dry much better than using the empty funnel. i like using silicone grease on oil filter gaskets on those Toyota reusable oil filter metal or plastic housings makes it easy to get off and not over tightening it. I also throw a little fresh oil in fill to rinse out some of the oil caught in the nooks and crannies of engine.

Kenny Daytime running lights have been the law in Canada for years so even vehicles made in the US exported to Canada must have them and they are a great idea. But they should also have running tail lights as well. Get into a situation with snow blowing across a highway and you can come up on the rear of another vehicle suddenly. If the tail lights were auto activated like the headlights it would be much easier to see one.

I'm in NC also. I like to support local people the best possible

@Wrenching With Kenny, The only time that I would find it to be a problem while using Lucas oil treatments is when an engine like yours is woefully plugged up with sludge, the only time and I've been using for going on 24 years now. I have the 4.7L in my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee and hell, I thought that mine had build up looking down thru the filler tube! Holy chit man! Yours has about 3 - 3.5 times the amount of build up. I do know of two ways to break up that sludge that will definitely amaze you if you are interested and both methods work quite well and by not endangering that engine of yours!

Hey there Brother Kenny, I like the 'systematic' approach that you teach for something seemingly as 'simple' as an oil/filter change. Like you said, so what do you do if you drain all of the oil and then find out that suddenly you can't open the hood. Even hood latches and cables go bad and the reason why I personally lubricate mine periodically.

You put out some honest and great video's. Love that you are down to earth and it's not about how much $ can I take from the customer this time.... Here is something else for you to check into.... Get an oil filter crusher and see how much oil is left in the filters.... Similar to what seems to be shown in your videos the shops I was at we didn't do tons of oil changes but we did them every day. It was surprising to me even after letting filter sit and drain for a week at how much really was left in them...

That is the only time smoking is good for you Ken. Nice score. I'm doing the same thing with a trailblazer we got. Neglected oil changes. I'm changing it every 1,500-2.k miles.Oil pressure came back and it is slowly cleaning up.

Transmission issue ... Same thing happens with my work vehicle, its a 5.7 Hemi. I was told to just wait a small amount of time after start up

The old Ford Exploders were 26 psi, I always set them at 30-32

I had an ‘02 Ram. I believe the torque converter would leak down. I’d place it in reverse and it wouldn’t move for a bit of time, finally after a few seconds it would. Never had hard shifts, all shifts were smooth. Lived with it for 8 years until I sold it. My baffle in the oil fill never looked like that! I removed it and cleaned it each oil change. I changed every 3k miles. Oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild/replacement.

If I make 2 suggestions, one is, use a SOLO cup (similar to those used to play "beer pong') to remove the filter. that way, the oil spills into the cup, rather than dripping all over the power steering rack. The other suggestion, is to remove the transmission pan, and replace the pickup filter screen. There could be two problems. 1, is that the screen is clogged, creating suction pressure, cavitating the pump. The other problem could be the O-ring where the pickup tube enters the valve body, or, a gasket. causing the pump to draw in air, which aerates the pump. Both are good reasons to replace the pickup screen assembly. There even could be a crack somewhere near where it mounts to the valve body caused by vibration. That might help it shift into gear more readily.

Ive had good results using Marvel Mystery Oil for the last quart and doing 2 short (2500-3000 mile) oil changes to clean out a gunked up engine.

My first car was a 1970 Catalina. Bought in 1976. Transmission quit by 78. Only car I ever changed 90 days or 3000 miles. Sears oil and filter. Bought oil by the case.

Did you know that with the Vw Audi group motors, when you take the filter cartridge out there is a hole to the right that goes all the way down to the oil cooler and you can get another quart of oil out of that with a vacuum pump. And you can fill the car with oil through the filter housing quicker,then top off through the normal filler after.

Regarding the transmission issue in the 4.7L. There's a anti-drain back valve in the screw on filter in the transmission. The valve leaks allowing the transmission fluid to drain out of the torque converter. The result is the vehicle will not move in gear after it's been sitting for a while. Mine had this issue. Once I replaced the filter in mine, the problem was resolved. There's a TSB on the issue (21-015-05). It says it applies to the 2003 - 2006 Ram 1500 but the problem also occurs in the 2002.

FORDBOSSME has done plenty of cutting open the oil filter.

Used to be Berrymans B 12 recommended putting a pint can into an engine before the oil change and run at idle about 20 minutes before draining oil. They don't recommend it now but it works wonders on engines that are that bad.

Put a line on the oil filter after gasket contact then turn the oil filter an additional 3/4 turn. Instructions should be on the filter. The best filters are made by Wix. Napa Gold from Napa is also made by Wix.

If you put a large industrial air filter the foam style types. If you use that in the catch can it will absorb the oil and cause less of mess...if it makes sense.

I used to put STP in my truck to help with dry starts to help keep oil in the bearings overnight. Then I came to the realization it was because I was using crappy FRAM filters that pretty much have no check valve. There are videos of people that cut up just about every filter sold. Most are about the same except for FRAM oil filters which are EXCEPTIONALLY cheap. I don't like the running of headlights in daytime as I feel they actually make a vehicle ' more invisible ' , especially motorcycles. A blob of light at night shows a vehicle coming, a blob of light in the bright daylight just tends to hide the other features of the vehicle.

A DOLLAR A QUART!!!!???? I am Soooooooooo envious of you right now, what a "smokin' deal" for sure!

I like to cover the frame and or whatever else is under the oil filter with a piece of plastic when changing the oil. The plastic could be as simple as a small shopping bag or a trash bag. It's not to collect the oil, it's to allow it to run off into your drip pan.

I get 300,000 plus on most of my vehicles and change 5,000. A 1996 Ford Bronco I got rid of at 60,000, but it was on its 4th Tranmission, oil pump a long aluminum oil pump had a tendency to warp and rob the engine of oil pressure, pure junk and last Ford. Bought a brand new Dodge Cummins, and grand Cherokee from my wife. Both where running great when they left. Went Toyota for wife, a 4 runner and new Cummins truck. .

Kenny, All that sludge was build up by neglect, then previous owner "fix it" with Lucas before he sold it. Put some trans fluid into engine oil is suppose to add detergent that helps remove sludge. Also some techs, Ford Boss Me, haved used Marvel Mystery Oil.

I recommend adding a 1/2 quart of transmission fluid to the oil at the time of oil change. No don't subtract anything from the regular amount of oil your engine requires being a 1/2 quart over full won't hurt anything

Lucas is good for getting the car to the dealership to trade it in.

In my 05 Malibu 3.5 engine manual it states it puts it into some other mode if you go past the "time to change" no matter how few miles are actually have on it since the last change. I assume sort of like "limp" mode. I knew about bypassing the clogged filter but not sure what special mode they are talking about.

My 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 has 260,000 miles on it. I bought it in 2001. It's been doing that put it in reverse and not going for a few seconds for probably 10 years or more. Like you said, it no problem though. It always works good after a few seconds of warming up.

You must have got the oil at Lowes? Mine had an entire cart of on clearance too but not nearly as low as you got it. Good score Kenny!!!!

Supposed to set your tire pressure by what's in the door. But to each his own.

Kenny add two quarts of ATF to that unit and see if the problem goes away if it does you've got a cracked filter. If that don't work we'll try something else.

Thanks for a good video again , i think i change my oil eaven sooner then that , i change at 1000 swedich mile with a longrange oil and oem filters . Best wishes from Sweden 🇸🇪🇸🇪

Need to get yourself a lisle no splatter pad for you drain catch/funnel They work great They 15-30 bux

When I change my oil in my diesel engine after sitting all winter in the garage, I pull it out with the other truck so everything is still in only the pan. Have no issues

Been down the tire pressure road. Traction is better at what the sticker in the door calls for. Also tread wears longer using the pressure set in the door. You do you but the factory made those recommendations based on how much air you need in the series of tire they put on the vehicle, so I go by what’s in the door since they spent millions figuring out the best compromise between load handling and traction and already accounted for long drives. Dude that oil was nasty. If I saw that in one of my vehicles I would be adding SeaFoam right from the start and change it again in a couple days or 100-300 miles. I use it when the oil is nasty, and when I get a new to me vehicle that I don’t trust was kept up well. It’s cheap and cleans. Some people don’t like it but I do and Project Farm does. I use MMO as a standard additive because the theory about it when I learned about it from a friend was it gets in those tight spots where it’s hard to lubricate enough and sticks to them. So whether it’s correct or not the idea is you never actually get a dry start. You get, in theory, residual lubrication on every bearing surface. I know my Saturn has over 322000 miles on it and there’s no evidence that it’s an old engine. Oil does drain black but I don’t take it to 4000 or 5000 miles for any of the vehicles I change it at 3000 or when it’s too dark for my liking. If it’s dark brown or black at 1000 miles it gets changed. How much is it to get an engine built? Oil is cheap and meant to be a consumable. Also I have seen conventional oil perform better in that Saturn than the synthetic and synthetic blends. That’s my experience and everyone’s will vary some depending on what they are looking at and for. Either there’s something to it or I have been getting incredibly fortunate at picking used cars and trucks. But I loathe automatic transmissions. I don’t trust them. Every one I ever owned except the one I sold right after I paid it off, failed on me at some point. I never had a manual fail me and the one time I had a clutch problem nobody recommended me or told me I have to buy a rebuild. Wife’s car needed a shift solenoid and torque converter and or lockout clutch solenoid. They sold me a rebuild then it was the third trip back to the shop before they replaced the solenoids and they had to replace the steel set because they kept sending it out broken and thankfully it was still under warranty. 1 time I had to have a clutch installed and install a clutch cable. I diagnosed it myself and the guy did the work he sold me. Then he told me what was wrong. I share what I did to prompt a trip to the shop or what symptoms are concerning me and let them do the rest when I decide I ain’t fixing it anymore. He fixed my shifter though and it taught me to get their perspective, might save me money and frustration. I still do everything I reasonably can myself but I don’t have a level driveway or a lift so I’m not often putting the wife’s car on jackstands to check transmission fluid levels because GM decided it should be checked at operating temp from a check/fill plug underneath the car even though you fill it from the filler in the top.

Hej! Kul att höra att du är från Sverige! ❤ Följer din kanal och gillar ditt sätt att arbeta . 👍

Hade aldrig gissat att du är från Sverige har följt din kanal i 3-4 månader nu o nu blir det ju extra kul 🇸🇪

I had a friend with one of those explorers the tires they put on them were made for a mini van they were too light a tire for those vehicles